Engines - Sensors - Transmissions :: 2009 Camry - Unintended Surge / RPM Shoots Up
Oct 15, 2014
Here's the situation -- 2009 Camry, 32,000 mi. No recalls on record for its VIN. Parked in parking lot and preparing to leave. NOTE: At no time does my foot touch the gas pedal. OK...Foot on brake. Start engine, shift to reverse and back up under idle power. Turn wheel to align for departure and stop. Foot still on brake; shift into drive. Uncommanded (by me) engine RPM shoots up! Now hard on brake to stop forward lurch while simultaneously shifting to neutral. Engine RPM now screaming. Shut off ignition. Again, no touching of gas petal in this whole process. Turn the car back on and all it normal All has been normal for a month. Can't get the incident to repeat. No "check engine" lights at any time. Car operates perfectly.
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So I have two issues one bad and one worse both while driving in the rain. Hyundai Elantra 2010 Automatic 4cyl, Bad scenario: the car refuses to shift (up/down) after something is getting wet, just this morning we had really nasty rain and this happened car feels like it's stuck in second gear. RPM was @ 3000 while going 45/50 MPH is this normal? But you can feel and hear the car is not shifting up or down while stopping at a light MPH 0 RPM 1000 when accelerating from the stop I have to press the pedal more the usual almost like no power and RPMs just go back up to 3000 and still can't feel the shifting from 1rst to 2nd almost like its just stuck in 2nd..
Worse scenario: Same instance driving in the rain - something gets wet? and my engine/trans ? all the sudden jerks/kicks with a thump/thud noise the jerk and noise might be at the same time the car is shifting between gears not sure. If I keep trying to drive it keeps kicking and jerking so I don't tempt it in case I make something worse off, one time this happened I had to keep going to get off the road safely and it did through the engine light on the rain stopped while I was pulled over so I sat for an hour let it dry out some and the car ran fine.. What could this be??? When the car is dry runs just fine, I even had the dealer do some trouble shooting 2 weeks ago cuz I had the worse happen and had to have it towed and he couldn't re-create the prob. nor find what it could be..
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I have a 2005 Suzuki Aerio with an automatic transmission. Occasionally, maybe once every month or two, the check engine light will come on while I am driving and the car will immediately stop down-shifting from 3rd gear. The car otherwise seems to run fine but I end up having to manually shift to get to wherever I am going. Then on my next trip, the transmission will shift fine but the check engine light will stay on for an additional trip or two and then go off. What is going on. By the time I get to it the light is off again and the car seems to function fine.
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My 01 tundra can bog down under load - going up a long hill or towing a trailer - with the speed and RPMs steadily dropping until it finally downshifts, and the RPMS shoot up to 4k or so, but I don't regain much speed. This is without cruise control. If I have the cruise control on the problem does not occur. The truck slows, but in a normal way expected under the circumstances. The CEL is not on. No codes are being recorded. The Tranny fluid is full and smells fine.
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my 92 subaru check engine light has been on for months. I took it to my mostly-trusted mechanic. He hooked it up to the computer and the car did not give any codes. He reset the light, but it came right back on when started. I am wondering about the coolant temp sensor but I would expect that would give a code. Why won't a check engine light give a code?
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After my 2005 Nissan Sentra check engine light came on I had the codes read. The code is indicating that there is a lean air/fuel ratio mixture. I'm thinking this may be a false positive(bad sensor), clogged fuel injector, etc. The light has gone off and come back on. I live in Utah where the cold weather may play a factor. How to diagnose the real problem, or where I should start?
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I took my 2011 Lariat in for first service and reported that it sometimes tries to accelerate on its own during slowdown from high speed, eg when coming off a freeway ramp, rpms go up and vehicle wants to speed up rather than slow down. (sounds like something a Toyota would do!)
Dealer says its a known problem with 5.0L and performed a supposed fix per "TSB 11-8-9, 5.0L ENGINE BRAKING PERFORMANCE DURING LOW SPEED COAST DOWN," essentially a PCM reflash.
Happened once in a parking lot...thought the floormat was stuck on the accelerator but the pedal was clear.
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So my sister bought a 2007 Camry last year since she was impressed with the reliability of the 3rd gen Camrys we've been driving for the last decade. It's been a good car for the last six months but she's on the verge of selling it because of sudden transmission issues on top of the oil consumption problems that seem to be commonplace with this generation of 2.4L.
She says that her tach sometimes shoots up to about 3200 RPM when she taps the brakes going downhill and occasionally it feels like she's hitting pools of water on the highway. She also described hesitation followed by an extremely hard shift when braking more suddenly, such as avoiding people turning in front of her.
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My fiancee has a 1995 Toyota Camry that she uses as her work vehicle and yesterday the car started making a clinking noise from the front that I thought was a broken CV but after going to 2 mechanics we were told it was something with the transmission but neither mechanic did trannys so they wouldn't go any farther into it. When put into gear it there was a loud clinking sound that sounded like it was coming from the front driver side wheel and the car wouldn't move. Before spending the money and bringing it to the only transmission specialist in town I figured I would try here first because I have learned specialist usually means more money, especially when your the only specialist in town. Is there any common issues with transmissions that would cause a clinking or metal on metal sound?
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Ticking sound from the engine compartment. Here are the clues:
Have observed this since at least probably 2009. Affects a 2000 Saturn LW1 with DOHC 4-cylinder engine.
It's a mechanical "ticking" sound that seems to come from the right side under the hood.
It only happens in cold weather.
It typically starts a couple of minutes after the car is first started up on a cold morning.
It typically goes away when the engine warms up (after several minutes).
It always repeats at the same rate, maybe about 7?8 ticks per second.
It is independent of engine RPM.
It is independent of vehicle speed
Sometimes (but not always) it stops when you lift your foot off the accelerator (it may tend to do this after the engine has warmed up a bit). When you depress the accelerator it resumes It doesn't seem to affect performance but I'd love to know what it is and whether I need to worry.
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I've been watching my mother's 1976 Fiat convertible this summer. It had been taken to the shop about 6 weeks ago and it's been running fine without any problems. I had to leave for about three weeks and now the car will not start.
When I turn the key in the ignition with the clutch engaged, the engine turns, but pressing down on the gas pedal has no effect. The engine doesn't rev nor does it catch. There is gas in the tank and clean oil. I checked all the connections I didn't find anything loose.
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I have a 2009 Kia Rio5 that has started to have a strange, intermittent issue. It's an automatic and sometimes when I turn my car on and go to put it in to gear, the car sort of shudders and it feels like something is having a hard time moving in the front of the car. The act of shifting is easy but it sounds/feels like the car is having trouble with it. Then, when I get going, the shift up from 1st to 2nd has the same symptom. The car shudders, there is some lag, and then it goes in to gear. After that it feels, but is hard to determine, that it doesn't downshift after it goes up into a higher gear. When I slow down my RPMs drop to an oddly low amount and accelerating from a stop is quite different. The car has ~33k miles on it and the transmission fluid looks ok. There are no lights indicating an error.
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I just bought my 2002 camry 9 months ago and have had it into at least 4 different shops and the last two visits were a toyota dealership. Problem, traveling at 30'- 40'mph, car has slight hesitation and slight surge feel. It feels as if passenger is messing with a driver's ed brake? Problem is sporadically intermittent. Dealership did update ECM, but not sure what they did. What to do next so my car will roll smoothly and I can love my camry?
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I'm having a problem with my 2009 Subaru Forester.
When I start the car from "cold" (i.e., it hasn't run in several hours, regardless of the actual temperature), the automatic transmission cannot engage drive for several minutes. I can shift the car, and reverse functions normally. When shifting, I can feel the car engage reverse, and feel it shift into neutral, but when I shift from neutral to drive, I can't feel it engage. I can rev the engine, and it will just act as if it is still in neutral. I also cannot use sport mode to manually get the car into gear. After a few minutes (3-4), the car will engage drive. However, at least initially, it still seems to be pretty rough, with a few times where it will rev as if it's half in neutral, and then jump a little. Once it does get going, it settles down and is fine.
I took it to the dealer, but wasn't able to leave it over-night, so they couldn't get the problem to re-engage. They inspected the car, thought that the shift cable was a little stiff, so they took it off, lubed it, and put it back (they recommended replacement, but didn't have the part in stock). The next morning, the problem repeated itself, so it certainly appears that the cable is not the issue. The dealer checked the transmission fluid and said that was all fine.
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So I've had my car for just a little over 3 years and it has 28,000 miles on it. I always use Shell gas and fill it up before it goes under the quarter tank mark every time. I take very good care of it, and I've loved it. I constantly get upper 30 mpg in city driving and mid to upper 40s on highway.
Recently, I have had an issue where for the past week. One morning, it started rough and got bad mpg for a few mins until the engine "burped" (best way I can describe it). Then it was fine.
I felt this same surge or "burp" 2 times after that. It doesn't speed up or anything, the RPMs drop for a second and come back up as if something is pulling power away. I still get amazing gas milage (39.2mpg and I filled up 2 days ago). It just surges. I don't understand. I take very good care of it! I looked online and apparently its an issue that some others are having. What could it be?
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My daughter's 2002 Saturn S-series coupe has a manual transmission. Lately it has been jumping out of 2nd gear, and occassionally 4th and reverse. What is the most likely cause?
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It's abnormally cold here in the Northern Va area single digits with windchills in the negatives. I ran through the car wash, one of those that hand dries it afterwards to get the salt off my truck. After running the roads I went to back in to a spot and the sensors are going off. Nothing is blocking them so I'm thinking water got inside and froze?
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During our last ice storm during a nice long skid down an icy hit, I reverted suddenly back to my days one decade ago of driving a stick-shift in the ice and tried to down-shift our '98 Camry (automatic). I placed it in reverse. It stalled. The car continues to run, but the check engine light came on. I took it into the garage and they couldn't find any engine issues. They turned off the check engine light. It came back on the next day. Sometimes it sounds like the gears aren't shifting automatically as I drive (rpms run high.) Am I damaging the car by continuing to drive it?
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While driving in a storm over the winter, I hit a skid and reverted to my old days of driving on ice (in a different stick-shift car). I tried to down-shift our '98 Camry (automatic)....so I placed it in reverse. It stalled. The car continues to run, but the check engine light has been on since that day.
I took it into a nearby garage the next week and they couldn't find any engine issues that time. They turned off the check engine light. It came back on the next day. I went to Advanced Auto Parts and got the code read: PO 171.
Since then, I've been driving the car once or twice a week, saving up $$ before taking it to my new repair shop -- to which we've switched for our other car. What might I expect to hear from them about our Camry? Am I damaging the car by continuing to drive it?
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I plan on changing the 2 sensors from the codes p0138 (bank 1, sensor2) and p2195 (bank 1, sensor 1). Any visual picture on here to locate these sensors?
2007 Xamry XLE V6
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I have an' 03 Camry with 46K miles and last week the check engine came on. Turns it was the Arem Sensor, whatever that is, that caused the light to come on and needed to be replacement. So my question is, is that a common problem with Gen5 Toyota Camry's?
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