Engines - Repair - Chevrolet - Montecarlo :: 2000 Car Will Not Idle Smoothly / Bounces Between 600 And 800 Rpm
May 5, 2015
2000 Chevy Monte Carlo 3.4l - The problem that I currently have is that the car will not idle smoothly, it bounces between 600 and 800 rpm. I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, fuel filter and thought I checked the hoses. Just got done changing the upper and lover manifold seals, during which I replaced or cleaned what ever was suggested by the place I purchased my parts through. I am at a loss, I have begun to notice that there are small fluctuations on the highway when I am using the cruise control and am on flat land.
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I have a 2001 Monte Carlo that I absolutely love. The check engine light has been on forever, despite repairs that should have turned that light off. Just recently, my car has started to gain RMP while I'm stopped or going anywhere between 0-25 miles per hour. This also makes the car physically shake and jolt. Very unfortunate. I turn it on to drive once more and then my check engine light flashed and beeped at me. I thought about waiting to take it in until Monday, but now I think it is best to bring it in now.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo SS with 120,XXX miles on it. For the past year, I've been hearing a very loud POP or KNOCK when I put the car in reverse from park. Here are the details that make it so vexing.
• It only happens first thing in the morning. For the rest of the day, there is no pop.
• It only happens in cooler weather (less than 50°.)
• The sound comes from different places each time. Sometimes it sounds like it's in my rear passenger wheel well. Sometimes from the front of the car. Sometimes from directly beneath the driver seat.
• Rarely, there will be times when I'm driving and I "goose" on the gas, there will be a light pop sound. (when in drive)
I've had all of the motor mounts replaced (per mechanics opinion) and the problem persisted. My mechanic suggested it might also be transmission mounts but he doesn't know without actually replacing them. From visual inspection, he didn't see anything suspicious. Since the car is probably near the end of its life, I didn't want to spend a lot (more) on something that might not even be the problem. I asked if it was safe to drive and he said yes. I have noticed that when I put my car in reverse each morning and hear the pop, it seems to jar the car rather violently.
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2000 Chevy Monte Carlo... The heater/blower only works sometimes, usually not at all when it's freezing out. when it's a little warmer out, it tends to work more often, but still not all the time. what could this be? my husband tried replacing the blower motor, but that didn't change the situation, so he put the old one back in, and is now puzzled ?
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My poor 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo SS is turning into a hooptie. Or at least it sounds like one. I am due for a front brake pad change in about a month, so I'm wondering if this new noise has anything to do with it. If not, I certainly hope it's affordable!
And now to the strange noise being emitted from the front of the car. This morning, about 50 degrees, I started my engine to drop my boyfriend off at work. While idling in the parking spot, I heard a dim car horn - fog horn combo noise. A neighbor gave me a "wtf" face, and I'm sure I returned her stare with the same expression. Hoping it was something else, I drove off.
First stop light, just down the block, while idling and waiting for the light to turn green, I hear the same noise. Very embarrassing. Next light I stop at, same noise. Once the car got to half of its optimum temperature, the noise stopped and didn't return.
That is, until several hours later when I needed to go to work and restarted the car from a cool nap. Same noise.
So, what the deal is? I thought it might be fan related, as it kind of sounds like there is some rattling going on in there, too.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo that has me stumped as to why it leaks. The driver side axle seal leaks fluid only after a drive. I have replaced the axle twice and seal 6 times and it still leaks. I am stumped on this one. Unless I got a bad axle twice that the diameter of the sealing surface is too small but didn't seem like it as the seal hugs the shaft.
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I have a 2005 SEL Freestyle with 114K miles. Cyl #3 missing. Has all the symptoms of a "lean misfire" - reading the code said #3. The indy mechanic already replaced the spark plug and the coil. Misfire still a problem. Tried to put some cleaner in there which did not work. He thinks the head needs to be replaced ....
The a/c is also busted. Needs a compressor. Not to mention I'm probably looking at brakes before much longer.
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93 Mercury Cougar 3.8L V6 with just over 83,000 miles
l've been trying to figure out this issue for ages, but can't seem to find the root of the issue. When driving and accelerating to 40mph, the rpms drop and GET STUCK at exactly 1000rpm. Forcing the accelerator down makes the engine bog and sputter and not go any faster. No check engine lights whatsoever.
The idle is very rough and low in park (700rpm compared to the regular 900) and very low in drive (500 compared to 650-750). When stopped in traffic for a while, it begins to shudder and shake like it wants to stall right there. Now let me run down the extensive list of parts l've thrown at it, bringing only temporary results:
Replaced catalytic converter
Replaced IAC valve
Replaced O2 sensors
Rebuilt transmission (runs great, so l've ruled that out)
Replaced 1fuel injector
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced motor mounts
Cleaned throttle body extensively
I asked a guy at a Firestone and he said that l needed a valve job. Asked another guy at another place, he said l needed a fuel system cleaning. Asked another guy under a tree, said l needed a new speed sensor. What could be the root issue? l was thinking carbon build up over 22 years maybe? Almost all 83k of those miles have been city miles...
This car is my baby, all l want is for it to be able to handle highway speeds without a hiccup. l'm keeping it and plan to see 100k hit the odometer and many more miles!
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i own a 95 monte carlo z34. ever since i bought it last yr. i have had starting problems. i thought it might be a fuse, checked them all and there fine. i noticed when i pluged in the 2 ingnition fuses back in the fuse block under the hood,the security light lit up for a min then went out. now my car has the chip in the key also. i thought the securty system is failing some how. might it be the tumbler in the colum? if so i read here it could be bypassed, by buying a resister, and spliceing in to a fat orange wire under the steering column, to by pass the security system. is it that easy? if the person who posted the ad with the same problems im haveing could give me more detail instructions on doing this my self,because id rather fix it than take it to a dealer and spend big bucks i don't have.
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Here's the deal with this car i just did head gasket, valve job, all new intake gaskets and spark plugs. Car idles fine and mid throttles fine but with high throttle it wont shift and flashes the random misfire light p0300 it seems to run out of power. I've heard everything from maf sensors to ignition coils and wires. i was just wonder a good place to start and good test to do. I have most testing equipment including scan tool so i can ride with it. o and all cylinders compression tested above 150.....
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I found a steal of a car for my son, a 2003 Monte Carlo SS. The car had been hit slightly in the LF corner. The car needed front brakes, so I bought a package off Ebay that had rotors, pads, and wheel hubs. I replaced the LF wheel hub when we did the brakes and kept one for a spare since the RF felt good.
Shortly after replacing these parts, the car started to make a popping sound when you would turn right. The popping sound is much like an exhaust pipe dragging on the ground. We checked to make sure the was no contact with moving parts. After reading several forums, we decided to replace the LF hub with the spare we had. This did not fix the situation, so we put the first replacement LF hub onto the RF. Still no fix.
After this we decided to take the car to a empty parking lot and drove in circles trying to find the source of the noise. We discovered that the noise would go away if the car was put into neutral. We were still unable to locate the source of the noise.
So I decided to jack the car up and put it in gear and turn right. The noise did not occur with no load on the tires. However the u-joints on the axles were making some excessive noise, so I put in a new set of axles. Again this did not fix the noise. Now thinking the source must be in the differential.
Well two days after putting in new axles, the transmission went out. This will surely fix it, right? Well the mechanic that fixed the transmission said the pump had gone out, and it appeared the differential was creating shavings that caused this situation. GREAT WE FOUND THE SOURCE. Not so much!
Car still makes noise while turning right after replacing the transmission. I have driven myself crazy trying to find the source of this noise including riding in the engine compartment while my father drove in circles in the local high school parking lot.
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What can cause a car to jerk forward while accelerating? Other symptoms include loss of HP and MPG. Recently had spark plugs and wires changed. Regular maintenance. I am about to see my mechanic and ask him to check the fuel pressure.
2002 Chevy Monte Carlo ss 100,000mi
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How to fix a gear shift that tends to get stuck once in awhile. What about WD, and how would you apply it? I have a '97 Monte Carlo.
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I have a noise coming from the interior of my car that is incredibly, amazingly, terribly obnoxious. Not to mention somewhat embarrassing when I have a passenger, and it decides to show off.
Part of the problem is that it's unpredictable when it will occur. It could go weeks or even months without making the noise. Out of nowhere, it will start up again and continue once or twice day, or even any time I start the engine.
The best way I can describe it is: TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK
A brief pause of maybe 5 seconds....Then: TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK
If I switch the blowing knob from the driver setting to, say, feet, or dash, it'll stop for a moment and then resume with the TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK
After it gets as many TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUKs out of its system as possible, everything goes back to normal. During this process and afterwards, it blows cool/hot air at the correct setting, so no performance issues.
Car in question is a 2006 Monte Carlo - Any possibility this is a relatively simple DIY repair? I'm comfortable with basic tasks like replacing car stereos, speakers, headlights, oil change...If this'll require much more skill than those sorts of tasks, I'll likely need to put this repair in the hands of a professional.
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I own a 2002 Monte Carlo SS 3.8 6cyl. I believe it has a 4T65-E transmission.
On a regular basis if I drive 20 miles out of town, on my way back the transmission starts to shift hard (long shift?). From my research online, the 4T65-e is a faulty transmission to begin with. Is it worth replacing the Shift and Pressure solenoids? If I were to buy a new transmission where should I look? What are some model numbers?
Oil, trans fluid, filters are changed on regular basis.New catalytic converter. No Check Engine Light.
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Grinding noise in front end, replaced caliper, bearing, brakes and cv joint...
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When cruising my engine randomly has a miss. If I step on it, not necessarily full throttle but some, the engine pulls fine no miss. I don't think it's ignition because it doesn't miss with increased throttle. I have looked at an analyzer and none of the sensors is showing a fault. I have put 20 tankfuls of fuel with cleaner through it after I put a new fuel pump and filter on and I only use Shell now for the last 10 fill ups. The miss is not a passive drop in rpm but more of a buck.
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My mechanic told me that the fuel pressure is about 5psi low. Could this cause jerking/bucking during acceleration?100,000mi SS
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I have a 2000 Monte Carlo. I recently noticed a knocking sound in the driver side wheel area whenever I pull off or make turns. My mechanic said it was my rack & pinion bushing & that the whole rack had to be replaced, I just had it replaced last yr. So I get it replaced & it's still making the noise. Brakes & rotors were replaced in March as well the struts. The tie rods were replaced last in 2014. I don't know what to do now. What I can do?
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My 2003 MC SS has been acting up, the check engine light starts flashing at me and the car starts shaking when I turn the AC/Heat on. I know nothing about cars and before I take this to a mechanic, what might be the issue, I do not want to go somewhere and get totally ripped off.
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I have a 2002 Monte Carlo what recently had a new radiator, thermostat, intake manifold gaskets replaced. I was spewing coolant everywhere. Since the repairs with all new OEM parts, I still get the 'Hot Coolant Temp" warning on my dash. The temp gauge is pinned at 260 but minutes later drastically drop to under half way after which it seems to balance out at slightly under half way.
I also see the 'Low Coolant" as well even though I am full. All of this occurring while driving. I checked the oil and underneath the oil cap. No frothy or milkiness. Exhaust seems ok, no white smoke. The heat inside my car when i run it seems to go from warm to cold and back again. I'm praying it's not a cracked heard or blown head gaskets.
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