Driving on a trip, the check engine light comes on. The oil pressure is normal and the temp gauge is normal, the gas cap is properly sealed, is it ok to continue driving 2 to 3 hundred miles...
View 1 RepliesI've got a '99 Mercedes E320 and the lights have been getting brighter and dimmer depending on the RPM of the engine. For example, while in park and idle the interior lights will seem a little dim, but then if you rev the engine or start driving it will get a bit brighter.
This started suddenly last week, but I've never had any problems starting it. The water level in the battery was a little low, but I added distilled water and it's not improved.
I have a 2001 Mercedes E class, 4Matic. Over the last 7 years the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System)/EPS (Electronic Stability Program)/BAS (Braking Assist Program) warning light comes on and when I stop the car and start again, the light goes away. When this light comes on, only thing I noticed is the cruise control does not work, otherwise, no other problem. I took it to the service station one time, but that light did not come on and they did not do anything.The car has 105,000 miles. Now, when the light comes on it stays on longer and sometimes, I have turn the car on and off several times before light will go away.I am afraid to take it to the Mercedes dealer, as they might find a problem when no problem is there. Whether this is just glitch in the software or there is a real problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Mercedes C320 and this has happened to me twice within the last two months. While driving, all of a sudden the lights on dash go out, including speedometer, odometer, gas gauge looks to be empty, heater/A/C off - the engine still running & the radio still working. I don't know about the headlights because it was during the day & I didn't think to check. Both times it was after 5:00 or on the weekend and my mechanic was closed. Next day after starting the car everything worked again. What could cause this?
View 2 RepliesMercedes 1997 e420, and has fixed up the minor problems. It runs good, but to sell it he needs to take it to the Smog check. How long it'll take to reset the computer for it?
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 Mercedes Benz ML 320 with 203,000 miles stalls when I stop at traffic signals. It restarts after a few minutes. Yesterday it would not restart for several minutes after I stopped for gas.
View 5 RepliesNumerous Instrument panel lights come on when driving ( left hand side esp abs etc and right hand side brake). odometer falls to 0. when i stop and restart its fine but then after driving some time it happens again. 2001 Mercedes benz ml 320....
View 6 RepliesMy 2001 Mercedes CLK320 has ~150k on it. The maintenance etc. has been kept up to date. A few months ago the car engine started to run noisily and began to vibrate. It's worse when it's cold out or if the car is at stopped but not in park (like when you're at a stop light or drive thru). The vibration and noisy engine running lessen considerable after the car runs for a while and if the car is in the park. I already had a tune up by the MB dealer about 9 months ago. Diagnosis? Also, I'm obviously at that point where the dealer service shop no longer makes sense. I'm going to drive this car (hopefully) beyond 200k, however, it would be nice to get rid of this problem. Otherwise, the car really is almost as good as new!
View 7 RepliesI got oil in my coolant ...the engine has no water..trany is good too...when I drive the temperature is good, but when I'm at a stop it gets hotter...when I add oil that's whence I notice...could it be a simple fix or is it the gasket? 1989, Mercedez 260E, V6, 200k plus miles.....
View 4 RepliesA few months ago I bought a used 2007 Mercedes C280. Overall, I've been very happy with the car. The first month or so was heavy on longer highway driving, and it seemed to be getting decent gas mileage. The last couple of months have been mostly short range city driving, and the mileage seems significantly less. I wonder about the idle speed, on the assumption that it may be wasting a lot of gas sitting at stop lights and in traffic. The tachometer reading isn't always consistent at idle, but fairly often it's up close to 9,000 rpm. What should I be seeing, and does this need attention?
View 6 RepliesI have a 1996 Mercedes C220 with 60K miles on it. It runs great, but is giving me fits with inconsistent, intermittent, and (I’m pretty sure) incorrect warning lights, as well as intermittent gas gauge failures.
Soon after I bought the car about six months ago, the oil pressure warning light began to come on intermittently. Each time it came on, I checked the oil level and found it to be full.
At first it would come on, sometimes for just an instant, sometimes for several miles, but then go off and stay off for days or weeks. … Then it got weird … Each day as I was driving to work, the oil pressure light would go on - always within about 100 yards of the exact same place - about 10 miles and 15 minutes from home. It would stay on for 1/4 to 1/2 mile, then go off and stay off until the next day, when it would do the same thing again. I was still checking the oil level every day and finding it to be full; I have never added oil except when I changed it.
About two months ago I changed the oil and the filter. I put in Mobil 1 0W-40. Immediately after I did that, the oil light came on and has stayed on almost permanently. I say “almost” permanently because if I get to highway speed and then accelerate quickly, getting the RPM’s up to about 4500, the light will go off, sometimes for just a few seconds, sometimes for a minute or two, but will always come back on after I slow down.
Weirder still, immediately after I changed the oil, the coolant level warning light came on and has stayed on permanently. I have checked the coolant level every day since then; it has been full every time, has never gone down, and has never needed coolant added.
Here’s another issue that may be related. The gas gauge intermittently drops to empty, even when I know for sure the tank is not empty. Sometimes it shows the correct fuel level, sometimes it shows empty. Sometimes it will bounce back and forth between the two several times within my 1/2 hour drive to and from work. It does this with no pattern I can discern. It has been doing this as long as I have owned the car.
I have hooked up my Actron OBDII code reader to the car several times. It never shows any outstanding codes, any pending codes, or any other problems.
Although these issues worry me a bit, I have been willing to live with them, assuming there’s really nothing wrong with the car. But now I’d like to sell it - for reasons completely unrelated to the warning lights - and I’m pretty sure no sensible person would buy it if they test drove it and saw the warning lights. (And I think most people would notice if I covered them up with electrical tape!)
This 92 MB E300 has been sitting around for the better part of the last two years for various reasons (have another car with better mileage, don't drive much anyways, no insurance on it, etc), and we've been trying to get it going again with some mixed luck. I just replaced one of the window regulators (cable busted) and the battery (alarm drained it dry), but now we're having trouble starting it. It doesn't happen every time, but when we try to start it, the starter motor seems to get going no problem and it turns pretty good, but it just won't catch consistently. Its almost like there's no fuel in there, or maybe no sparks or something? Sometimes it will catch for a second, but it takes a while. Usually, once it's going its good, but if we have to stop and wait at a red light, it will sometimes just die when shifting to drive (I usually put it in neutral and give some gas while waiting). Also sometimes just when it's in a low gear and shifts up it will die too. Then, we have trouble starting it up again!
So what's going on, do you think? I was thinking maybe something along the lines of the fuel pump, spark plug, or injectors, but what do I know? (not much).
I have a beautiful 1987 560SL. My husband and I bought it about 17 years ago and lovingly refer to her as our mid-life crisis car. Truth be told, we're a bit past "mid" life now and have decided to sell it and let someone else enjoy her. Last summer she started to have an annoying issue and we "thought" it was fixed, but right after I started advertising, she started acting up again.The engine simply dies while driving. It always seems to happen when I've only driven about 5 miles and going rather slow - 20 to 30 mph. She'll start back up after a try or 2 and be fine. We took her to a local shop and the mechanic said one fuel pump was shot and the other was not working properly so we replaced both and all seemed fine the rest of the summer. We garage her for the winter as we live in the Rockies and she's not the most practical car to be driving in the snow and ice. This summer she started right up and was doing well until a few weeks ago - same problem.
View 7 Replies1999MB 320 Automatic trans .... Stopped at a light went to start heard a loud bang car became motionless? Trans has 60k and never a shifting issue.
View 1 Replies2000 ML430 230,000 mi. The engine starts and all is fine until I hit a spot of rough pavement or a minor bump and the engine "stumbles," feels like it has cut out or starving for fuel. I have been unable to tell whether it is left front or rear right tire or corner of the car that hits the bump and starts the engine running on limp home.Once it happens and I stop at a light then hit the gas, I can count to 4 before the engine responds, making left turns dangerous. MB factory service since new. The dealer has replaced spark plug wires, spark plugs, crankcase sensor, gas pedal sensor and still the same problem. I think it is a loose wire or ground since it only happens after I go over a bump(even a seam on concrete any jiggle does it).
View 3 RepliesThis morning while listening to cartalk I am stopped at a stop sign. I press on the gas to start off from stop - hear a loud bang as if I hit something. All of a sudden my engine is revving hard, whining noise but no power to drive. Luckily I had enough gradient to put the car in neutral and float it to a stop by the curb. Car does not move on Drive or Reverse but engine runs fine and revs up but no power to both axle. Where the issue is? The car is 82K miles and has driven great. where is the issue??? Axle break down/ CV joint break down/transfer case break down/ What is it?
View 18 RepliesI was driving today and as I descended a steep hill the car made a horrible banging sound and the check engine light came on. I got home and the light has since gone out. What happened and is this bad?
Mercedes E320 '99 300K Miles Automatic Transmission...
My 2003 E320 (131K miles) had been intermittingly flashing a red "Battery/Alternator Stop Vehicle" light and annoying alarm sound as well as a "Malfunction Electrical Consumers Turned Off" sign. Then three days ago the "check engine" light came on; went away the next day. Then yesterday the engine completely shut down on me.
The car started the today; took it to mechanic who says it could be alternator or wiring problem. Suggested I take it to MB dealer to get diagnosis before shelling out 800 bucks on an unnecessary car part. My question: should i take it to MB dealer or just replace the part? (I am not original owner; don't know if alternator's ever been replaced).
My 96 mercedes c280 will not start in the winter. I moved from florida to ohio and when it gets close to freezing or below my car will not start. The lights on rear view mirror (immobilizer lights) blink for 30 sec. I have to wait any where from 5-30 min. to start car depending on how cold it is, otherwise car runs great.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1989 Mercedes 300F, automatic transmission, with 175,000 miles (give or take). It runs great, starts well, we have no problem driving it 30 miles back and forth on back roads up to 60 mph. The problem seems to be when driving 40 miles at 75 mph. At that point, it will start to run rough, and then will not go over 40 mph without whining. The first time this happened, I had a leak in the transmission fixed and fluid put in. The second time, I had the fluid and filter changed, a new alternator, and a complete tune up. For a month after that we drove it for miles but not on the highway, with no problem. I thought I would chance it on a longer trip, got 40 miles down the highway at 75 mph when suddenly it started acting up and had to call a tow truck. When the tow truck arrived, we did not see any fluid under the car. It's been sitting in the driveway and now there are fluid leaks (appears to be oil). So, does it sound like something in the transmission, or maybe a bad alternator?
View 9 RepliesWhile on way to parts store car started acting like it was running out of gas. A half block from gas station it quit . I walked to station got gas put in the tank the engine would crank but would not start. I got towed home and still will not start. It will crank but that's it. 3.0 L inline 6 300 E ...
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