Engines - Kia - Stalls - Sephia - Heating :: Stalling When Turn On The Heater Or Air?
Jan 26, 2011
My Kia just started stalling when I turn on the heater or air....?
View 1 RepliesMy Kia just started stalling when I turn on the heater or air....?
View 1 RepliesI was told that my 1997 kia Sephia needed a new catalytic converter by a very reliable shop. My car had been stalling out and running very rough. They did replace the distributor cap which seems to have increase the overall performance and that same day i had a smog check and passed with flying colors! Why would I still need to replace my converter if I passed smog. My car has only 36k on it.
View 19 RepliesI replaced the blower motor and the resistor. I just replaced the resistor again only after only a couple weeks. I noticed that two resistor plug wires (orange and black) were burnt. what can be done to fit this problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Chrysler Sebring Touring (Convertible). Recently, out of the blue, the heater quit supplying hot air. I took it to my local mechanic who
1) replaced the thermostat and
2) replaced the blend air door motor.
After 4 days I was told it was fixed. Now it blows only "warmish" air on the driver's side and cold air on the passenger's side.
I have an 01 Mercury Cougar Sport Coupe that we bought from a friend for not too much, just to use as a daily driver. It's got a lot of miles on it, but it still gets good mileage, which combined with the fact that we didn't pay much for it makes it an okay car for around town.
Here's the problem. I live in Wyoming where it's winter nine months out of the year, and the heater core is apparently blocked. I made it all through last winter with this problem, but now it's intolerable. The kids call the car "the Red Icicle". My mechanic diagnosed the problem as a blocked heater core and tells me the only solution is to replace it, which costs something like $500. I can't work on the car as everything is too jammed under the hood to get access to anything.
Do I really need to replace the heater core? The whole car isn't worth much. Is there something I can put in the cooling system that will unblock the core reliably?
When the outside air temp reaches above 70 degrees, my Blazer will die going down the road. It will not start for about five minutes, then starts up again. Also, I have took the overflow cap off, poured water in it, and it would start up fine. I don't know what is causing the problem, it runs great in fall/winter, but when it warms up, it starts doing this?
View 2 RepliesDo I have to pull out the complete switch assembly, or could it be some thing else?
View 4 RepliesIt takes a LONG time for my heater to warm up... to be expected of an old car. However, once my heater is warmed up enough, it blows cold air when I'm idling at a light or anything. Once I get back up to 35 MPH it goes right back up to its temperature. Then drops again when I stop.
View 3 RepliesI wonder why the AC takes time to start heating on cold mornings. Actually. It gives warm air after about 5_10 minutes of driving. Is that OK?
View 9 RepliesThe heater fan quits working on colder days. It is not the fan motor, as twice after it has quit, several days later the fan began working again. As controls are switched, the indicators light and mode shifting sounds can be heard. It seems to be that the fan quits on the colder days (<38 deg) the will resume working again when the outside temperature exceeds 50 degrees.
View 7 RepliesI have a 93 subaru impreza manual that when I turn the key on and push in the clutch it wont turn over. The coolant fans kick on and stay on and so i retrieved the codes and the coolant temp sensor was the dtc so I replaced the sensor and cleared the code but the fans still come on and the engine still does nothing. Also I can gear clicking noises throughout the engine compartment and dont know where its coming from.
View 8 Replies I have a 2007 Explorer with around 79,000 miles on it and it has been in for assorted repairs over the last 6 months. Cooling issues, Losing all Coolant, Rough sounding engine, Stalling while driving, The mechanic has said they replaced much of everything each time I take it in. But now it was in for a fuel pump and while they were test driving it he said the Internal balance Shaft exploded and shrapnel is in the engine. His solution replace the engine with a 2008 has 38k on it for $2K. Does this sound right?
Do these Explorers have issues like this?
I recently bought a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer LS EXT 4.2l 6cyl with about 129k miles on it. The vehicle is excellent condition and has no leaks on the engine or transmission. I took it for a test drive before buying for about 20min and no issues with it shift or rough idling.
After having the SUV for about a week, I noticed that it has a slight rough idle at red lights and gets a little worse when the AC is on. Twice now in the past week the SUV begins to sputter at the red light and then shuts off. It doesn't do this every time and I have noticed it happens more when the fuel gauge is in between the quarter tank E line. My father in-law is having a similar issue with his 2003 Trailblazer, same engine and make and model.
I should also mention that no check engine light comes on or leave an ERR code.
Throttle body needs to be cleaned: We have done this on my father in-laws and didn't fix the issue.
Replaced the spark plugs: didn't solve the issue
Read that it could possibly be the APPS sensor under the gas pedal: Haven't replaced this yet
Tighten or replace gas cap: Have done this, didn't fix
Have the idle reprogrammed: Have not done yet.
Could possibly be a fuel pump issue.
I drive a 2000 Saturn S-series (SW) that has a lot of miles on it, and has been giving me consistent trouble lately--replaced the catalytic converter, transmission work, belts, coolant issues, you name it. That said, up until recently I would have referred to it as an extremely reliable car. The piles of money I've now put into it make me less likely to call it this. So, my question is twofold: a specific question and a general is-this-the-end question.
As of last night, my car has been having trouble shutting completely off. I am able to turn the key and take it out of the ignition, and the car shuts off--mostly. Something is still on (a fan, part of the engine?) and I have to turn the car on and off many times until it shuts off completely. Last night I had to drive it around the block before it would shut off. I took it to the mechanic today for a separate issue--hemorrhaging coolant--and asked them to look at the shutting off issue.
Of course, when they looked at it, my car suddenly shut off fine. They said that it probably has to do with the ignition switch, and that I'll need to take it to the dealer because my key is so old they can't recreate it from my old beaten up key from 14 years ago. (I'm not exactly sure what they have to recreate, or how an ignition switch works.) Is it time to chuck this car? Or is an ignition switch not a big deal?
My 1994 volvo 240 stalls at idle when the engine is warm. It's happening more frequently as the weather gets colder, I'm not sure if that's a coincidence. The car is an automatic and I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as low transmission fluid.
View 1 Replies1974 F100 starts to chug after 15 minutes driving although infrequently when driving at a slower pace. Would happen around the 70mph speed and stop chugs when slowed to 65mph.
Only have experienced this after it's been warmed up, in the past 3 sessions of driving it will do this on freeway when driving 70mph, slow down to 65mph and no issue. Although, it seemed to have chugged once this morning when driving 45mph up a hill when during time engine was partially warm.
3 mechanics can't find what is wrong but when I come to a stop sign or light my car stalls, not every time but a lot. Also, seems to happen more in cold or wet weather. So every time I stop and idle I have to quick put it into park.
View 2 Replies2002 Honda Accord, 4 cyl., will stall unexpectedly when coming to a stop or slowing down. It will start to shake and hesitate as one is slowing down from 35+ mph, then will stall at the stop. Has some trouble restarting, but when it does, everything seems to be fine. No codes are left, and my mechanic suspects dirt or something similar is contacting the fuel injector(s) on a sporadic basis. I did replace the spark plugs as they were due at the time this first showed up, but it has happened twice since in a 3 month period.
View 3 RepliesI drive a 1995 olds Supreme 3.1 that has 125,000 miles. It runs like a dream but I have been having one problem I cannot pinpoint a solution for. When started cold, it runs and drives perfectly all day long, no problem. However once it reaches operating temperature and is shut off for a short period of time, it shudders and stalls upon restart. Then it does not restart until the engine is cool. The problem has been intermittent and not as much of an issue during the winter, but as spring approaches I worry it may become a bigger problem.
It has had a recent tune up: new spark plugs, wires, radiator, hoses, fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter, and water pump. This issue existed before all these parts were replaced.
A few days ago, my 2002 Land Rover Discovery ran out of gas. I've never run out of gas before and when I called AAA and found out that it was just a gas problem my relief outweighed any embarrassment I had about the situation. The AAA guy and I filled the car up and poof- I was on my way..... Since then, the check engine light has come on and although the car runs great when it gets going, it's the getting going part that has become tricky. When I turn the key to start the car, it makes a clank clank chug sound. To get it going, I have to step on the gas and turn the key at the same time. If I do that, the car runs as normal and everything is fine.
I read the reviews for mechanics and have an appointment set. Is it possible that because the car was out of gas, that something else got burned up or junk got into the engine? How a car works but I'm imagining a empty tank that is supposed to feed into something and if nothing is there couldn't residue in the tank get sucked into the thing that it is supposed to feed?
2000 Dodge Dakota (144K miles)just performed tune up (spark plugs, oil change, pvc, air filter, battery). Before and After tune up I am experiencing stalling at light after going over multiple speed bumps.
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