Engines - Honda - Accord - Vibration :: 2003 - Thumping Sound In The Wheel
Jan 20, 2011
I took my 2003 Honda Accord that has 200,000 mostly highway miles to my machanic because I heard a thumping sound in the wheel (so I thought) He told me it was a broken engine mount (front) and replaced it. When I picked up my car it vibrated all over the place. I was scared to drive it. The steering wheel was bounding around. Anyway I took it back right away and was told that since they replace the front engine mount the others needed to be replaced as well and that was the cause of the vibration. They replaced the other two engine mounts and the car is vibrating even more. So the decided it was the transmission mounts. So...they replaced the transmission mounts and still my car is vibrating all over the place.
Now the mechanic says it's the engine and said that it was at least a 5 hour job to do but could not give me any promises that that was going to fix my car. So, I took it to the honda dealer to have their tech look into it. The tech thought the vibration was caused by a broken air tube, replaced it (at no cost) but the car still vibrating..
Honda checked the replaced engine and transmission mounts, said they were okay but noticed that the original bolt on the front mount was replaced by a oversized bolt and they think that is the problem since the vibration did not occur until the mechanic replaced the front motor mount. Honda suggested I take the car back to the mechanic since it would cost me much money for them to fix it. I had Honda explain the issue to the mechanic about the bolt and they seem to disagree. I'm still waiting to hear from the mechanic as to when to bring my car back so that they can finally fix it. i think the made more of a problem in the first place.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord. I've had an issue with steering wheel vibration for the past 10 months. In that time, I've installed new hubcentric rings for my after market wheels, gotten my tires balanced, bought a whole new set of tires all together, and changed my cv axles twice. I still experience vibration in the steering wheel when I get up to 60 mph and all the way up to 80 mph. At times I have had vibration at low speeds, around 20 mph, but that was solved first when I installed the hubcentric rings, and again most recently with this second set of cv axles. Am I missing something or will I have to chase a solution to this problem until I am bankrupt?
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I have a problem with vibration in steering wheel and at speeds of 50 to 60 mph. It also vibrates at idle. This problem did not start until we had new brakes and rotors turn. We also have had tires rotated and balance. They told us we needed new motor mounts. We had them replace and the shake got worse. They replaced the front axles and the transmission mount. I also bought two new tires.
This started out when we took our car to have the tires rotated and balance. The Mechanic told us we needed new brakes, so we took it to get this done. we are now having all kinds of problems as I stated above. Took it to the Honda place here and one person told us it was not worth fixing. I do not believe this. The car has a little over a 115,000 miles on it. I have been driving a Honda since 1992. This car we bought new and I know it has been service.. One person at the Honda place here said he could replace all the mounts and would not promise it would fix it. We have even had one of the new tires replace because they said it was bad.
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I have owned this car for about 6 months now and cannot get to the bottom of this sound/action. I have taken it to multiple shops, including the dealer where I bought it from, a Honda dealership, and two other shops (Firestone Complete Auto Care, and a local shop which is goodyear backed.) Here is the deal:
When I accelerate past 50 mph and up to 75 miles per hour, and also when I cruise at any speed between those numbers, my car has a very distinct vibration in both the seat and steering wheel. It also has a sound that matches the intensity and magnitude of the vibration itself. The sound and vibration intensifies and decreases with changes in speed, the sound changes pitch when turning the wheel from one side to another, and the vibration gets worse as I drive up or down hills. This sound also gets louder if I apply the brakes suddenly, but also decreases with the speed of the car.
Things I have had checked:
Ball bearingsRims (One rim was actually bent (steel rims), and now is replaced.)Alignment (This was actually done at least 4 times since I've had the vehicle)Replaced tires (to rule out tire noise, and also the tires were going bad from what I believe is this problem)
I have had this car test driven to try to get opinions and either the shop denies that they hear anything, or say they do not know what the sound could be. It sounds like it is coming from the front right. I have been told by the dealership from where this car came that the sound is "road noise" and should be ignored. I disagree, because if it is "road noise" then it should go away when driving on different surfaces. When I have had my alignment checked, Firestone found that my camber on my front right and left rear were off to the right, but were still within specifications. They also said there was nothing they could do, and suggested if I wanted it fixed, I should take it to a body shop.
Included are a scan of the alignment results from Firestone, and a sound clip of the sound that is captured on my phone. Also, the sound can be heard throughout the recording, but is especially clear at around the 42 second mark.
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What causes a whirring sound in the front of the car when I turn the steering wheel? It happens first thing when I start in the morning but goes away.
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I have a 2011 honda accord with about 14k miles on it. I recently has ankle surgery and so have not been driving my car much, maybe once a week. I noticed when I have my windows down and am driving at low speed I can hear a sound that sounds like if you were to take a playing card and stick it in bike spokes, then spin the wheel. If I put my windows up I can't hear it. What the problem might be?
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After a round of extensive maintenance this month, I thought my '02 was once again a road-ready betty. Just my luck! On the drive home from the shop Friday afternoon, I noticed a hard shift when upshifting from 2nd to 3rd. I've done some test driving over the last couple of days, and here's what I've noticed:
1) If I apply too much gas, I intermittently get a little bump—very subtle—when it kicks into first gear from a running stop. The car seems to engage fine at start.2) If I apply too much gas approaching 30MPH in 2nd gear, where I think it would normally shift into 3rd, the transmission upshifts late and hard. The more gas I apply, the harder the shift.3) Once, when gunning it at highway speeds, I got a little bump shifting into a cruising gear at around 70MPH.
I'm able to completely eliminate this problem if I am prudent with the accelerator. If I back off the gas before the tachometer hits 3000RPMs and wait a few seconds before accelerating again, the transmission shifts smoothly. I have not noticed any issues with coasting or downshifting.
I've had this car for a decade and 146K miles and it's driven like a dream every day until this symptom presented on Friday. I don't remember the last time the transmission fluid was changed, but I've never missed a scheduled service and I always use Honda dealer shops. I checked the fluid yesterday, and I think the colour (winey red) and odor (sweet) were both good. The car had been driven recently, and the level on the dipstick was higher than the second dot.
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My son's 1991 Honda Accord was running real rough. The temperature gauge did not budge from cold. I changed out the thermostat. When I tried to start it it started great then coughed and shuddered and then died. It keeps starting and then dying. I took off the IAC and flushed it with mass air flow cleaner. The screen over one of the ports was all crudded up. It cleaned up OK. However then I put it back it improved for a minute and then died again. I have checked for vacuum leaks but found none.
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord v6 3.0 L Coupe and I have a problem with the start up. I just bought a brand new battery for my car so I know it's not the battery. Anyway, when I turn the key in the ignition (normally) I cannot get the car to turn on, it makes an electrical screeching sound. However, when I quickly turn the key, the car turns on. I want the car to turn on normally but do not know the specific problem. I replaced the starter with a family member not too long ago, could it be that the starter was not installed correctly?
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My 3.0 L Honda Accord won't start the way it should. I've included a video of the situation. I need to figure out what I need to replace. [URL] ....
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The check engine light will pop on an off rapid fire and the car will shake violently when you put it into drive or reverse for a minute, then the light goes off and its fine. then you'll be driving fine, and the light blinks on and off rapid fire again, and even if you have your foot to the floor, you cant get much power, then it kicks in and lurches into being fine again. I tried "tune up in a bottle" and it seems worse. I'm scared its transmission or something.. I took it and had it put on the diagnostic machine at autozone and they said there were no codes, which I find hard to believe since my check engine light is blinking on and off so much now. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to when it happens and when its fine. it will be fine for hours of driving, then in a small period of time, it will go through a whole bunch of spells of this happening.also: when this happens, the light that shows what gear you are in on the dash board goes black, then goes back on again when the check engine light goes off. What is going on with my car????!!!!!!
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We do have a problem with our Honda. We have icons on the IP that flash at certain time. Icons are the "battery", "door ajar" and "parking brake". The icons flash when we take our foot off the accelerator and stop when we re-accelerate. Also, if we turn the headlights on during the flashing, it stops. We have a new battery and alternator. A battery check yesterday showed all functions were normal. What could cause this problem and what to do about it.
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98 accord v6, when we first got it about a year ago the temp gauge was a little erratic. Sometimes it would stay all the way down (cold) after driving for awhile. You can take your finger and thump the plastic and it would jump up to normal. At first it was only temp, but now all gauges including gas level are not working. Odometer still works right but the speedo goes to about 45 and stays there. Thumping still makes the needles bounce around.
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra GLS Sedan, 6 speed manual with 65,000 miles. I recently bought a new set of wheels for my car brand new. I had tires mounted and balanced. I brought them home and installed them on my car myself and had no problems, this was about 3 thousand miles ago (1 month). 2 days ago I went down for my first oil change and tire rotation since getting the new wheels. The technician who I trusted suggested I balance the two rear wheels when bringing them to the front, so I went ahead and let them do that.
When I left the shop I noticed the front left wheel had a "thumping" sound when driving, as if there was a large nail hitting the ground every time the wheel went around. You can feel this in the floor. I just went back today to the shop to have them look at it and they too can feel it when driving. They put my car on the lift and while in gear they said they noticed the left front CV joint turning but it was not straight. It wobbled a bit. They showed me the play in it when pushing it up and down and said that it was not normal.
They were not trying to get me to replace them, the mechanics actually suggested I went to the Hyundai dealer to have it looked at. I'm replacing my front brakes tonight and I will be rotating that tire to the rear again to see what happens. I'm just curious as whether the play we noticed in the CV joint is normal, if they could have screwed up the tire balance somehow (which they did not recheck) or if the CV wobble could possibly be normal. I'll be switching that tire to the back and if the vibration is in the rear it will be going back down to Monro muffler and brake. If the problem remains in the front I will be visiting the Hyundai dealer.
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Recently I started hearing a rattling/grinding metallic sound coming off the right rear while driving slowly. This sound is not reproduced when braking.At first it started while doing sharp right turns only, now its ever present while driving. I showed it to a mechanic he says rotors needs to be replaced. Is he right? 2003 Honda Accord V6....
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The truck starts fine and when it was idling just started this loud machine gun sound for a few seconds, then stopped, and then happened again. I turned it off, and now...? May or may not be related but the battery was dead yesterday. We jumped it quickly and drove it to let it charge. Had the battery checked and it tested good. The battery is only about 6 months old but it's been pretty hot here in southern NM so figured that was probably the cause. There was no check engine light. I did a search here and spark plugs were mentioned for a Ford, but not sure if that holds true for the Honda.
Honda Ridgeline RTL 2006
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In February 2014 I purchased a 2011 Honda CRV. I often travel and am gone for about a week. Every time I come back the rear brake are rusted. They have a loud thumping and grinding sound. I immediately took the car back to Honda dealership (2 time) both times they 'shaved' the roaters. I then contacted Honda headquarters to report the issue. They told me to deal with the dealership and take it to a local mechanic for other opinions. Car Talk will be my second opinion. Honda dealership told me that this is just the way it is. This is my third Honda, I have NOT had this problem before.
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I was driving my son to Mygym this morning and everything was completely normal, but when I got onto the highway for the last 5 minutes of the drive my car started making a loud fast rhythmic thumping sound. I thought it was my tire and slowed down to stop... and then in stopped. So I went a little faster and as soon as I hit 50, it started again. I slowed down and drove the rest of the way to my sons class and looked at my tires and they looked fine to me (I have no idea what a tire should look like, but I can tell if one is very flat... I think). I also looked under the car for any obvious debris or whatever and didn't see anything.
We had our class and when I got back on the highway and accelerated to 50, it started back up again, so I slowly drove to our exit. By the time we were nearly home I wasn't even thinking about the problem anymore, but in the 45 zone near our home it started thumping again... sure enough, I was going 50. I am also wondering if it is safe to drive my car as long as I stay under 50? I have no other means of transportation and we need to go out pretty often (daily) for classes and therapies for my son.
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I get a rhythmic thumping sound from my right front wheel when braking. The sound gets slower as the car slows, and when very slow sounds more like a grind than a thump. I can feel the vibration through the brake pedal. I've had this problem before, and had my wheel bearings replaced -- fixed the problem, but after about a year the sound came back. Just had the car inspected and brakes are in good shape (at least those parts checked out by the state inspection). Could it just be that I need to get the wheel assembly tightened up? (It's a '99 Honda Civic with about 145K on it, if that matters)....
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I recently had new brake pads put on my van. Right before the pad replacement, I noticed a slight thumping sensation under my foot when I would decelerate, but before applying the brakes.
Now, and each day continuing to worsen, the thumping is almost constant, and more prominent when I am slowing down, and when I am turning to the right (less noticeable when I turn left). My steering wheel also starting to shake heavily. Today the engine light came on.
I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey with about 65k miles on it. The brakes were replaced 3 weeks ago, and then I took it into a local tire shop for an oil change/inspection. They did not note a single thing. I did ask them how the struts were looking and they said they were fine. This past summer when I had to have a flat repair done at Les Schwabs, they told me I needed new brakes, rotors and struts.
I could not afford that, so my father in law replaced my brake pads with ceramic ones, and the rotors look fine. So when I was told by the most recent shop that my struts were fine, I assumed something else was happening, but have not taken it to my local shop yet. I guess I am looking for a heads up because this could not come at a worse time financially.
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I have a 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid (automatic). The car has a bit under 200,000 miles on it, and has been used in a lot of long distance commuting and driving. We do pretty frequent check ups on it, and checked oil/other fluids last week -- all were good (the oil is admittedly getting close to needing a change, but definitely not within the next few weeks).
I was on the return trip of a 300+ mile drive when I noticed a rapid clicking/ticking sound roughly under the right side (passenger side) dash of the car. It was not affected by turning, accelerating or braking. The clicking was not constant, not very loud (I did not notice it over my music at first) and would come and go. If it was affected by anything, it appeared to come or go when a bump was hit, but that also wasn't necessarily always the case (hit bumps and it didn't stop, hit bumps and it didn't start). I checked wheel wells and under car for objects (suspension is a bit worn and car is low to begin with, so it rides close to ground and this has been a problem before; didn't seem similar) and there was nothing.
Google has led me to the possibility of sticky lifters, and though the sound is similar-ish, I am under the impression that this would be a much more constant noise and I am also fairly confident in the current quality of my oil.
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