Engines - Honda - Accord :: 2002 - Up Shifting Late Into Some Gears?
Jun 17, 2013
After a round of extensive maintenance this month, I thought my '02 was once again a road-ready betty. Just my luck! On the drive home from the shop Friday afternoon, I noticed a hard shift when upshifting from 2nd to 3rd. I've done some test driving over the last couple of days, and here's what I've noticed:
1) If I apply too much gas, I intermittently get a little bump—very subtle—when it kicks into first gear from a running stop. The car seems to engage fine at start.2) If I apply too much gas approaching 30MPH in 2nd gear, where I think it would normally shift into 3rd, the transmission upshifts late and hard. The more gas I apply, the harder the shift.3) Once, when gunning it at highway speeds, I got a little bump shifting into a cruising gear at around 70MPH.
I'm able to completely eliminate this problem if I am prudent with the accelerator. If I back off the gas before the tachometer hits 3000RPMs and wait a few seconds before accelerating again, the transmission shifts smoothly. I have not noticed any issues with coasting or downshifting.
I've had this car for a decade and 146K miles and it's driven like a dream every day until this symptom presented on Friday. I don't remember the last time the transmission fluid was changed, but I've never missed a scheduled service and I always use Honda dealer shops. I checked the fluid yesterday, and I think the colour (winey red) and odor (sweet) were both good. The car had been driven recently, and the level on the dipstick was higher than the second dot.
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Now, after he changed the thermostat the car has been driving really rough. When I slow down to stop, it'll jerk a couple lightly then stop. When I accelerate from a stopped position it'll jerk a little then go. And when it shifts gears(its an automatic) it jerks very noticeably. So now im freaking out worrying my transmission is going too. So I guess what I am wanting to know is ... wtf is wrong with it??? Water pump? Ive been told if I change the water pump I need to have them change the timing belt too .. yes?
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I took my 2003 Honda Accord that has 200,000 mostly highway miles to my machanic because I heard a thumping sound in the wheel (so I thought) He told me it was a broken engine mount (front) and replaced it. When I picked up my car it vibrated all over the place. I was scared to drive it. The steering wheel was bounding around. Anyway I took it back right away and was told that since they replace the front engine mount the others needed to be replaced as well and that was the cause of the vibration. They replaced the other two engine mounts and the car is vibrating even more. So the decided it was the transmission mounts. So...they replaced the transmission mounts and still my car is vibrating all over the place.
Now the mechanic says it's the engine and said that it was at least a 5 hour job to do but could not give me any promises that that was going to fix my car. So, I took it to the honda dealer to have their tech look into it. The tech thought the vibration was caused by a broken air tube, replaced it (at no cost) but the car still vibrating..
Honda checked the replaced engine and transmission mounts, said they were okay but noticed that the original bolt on the front mount was replaced by a oversized bolt and they think that is the problem since the vibration did not occur until the mechanic replaced the front motor mount. Honda suggested I take the car back to the mechanic since it would cost me much money for them to fix it. I had Honda explain the issue to the mechanic about the bolt and they seem to disagree. I'm still waiting to hear from the mechanic as to when to bring my car back so that they can finally fix it. i think the made more of a problem in the first place.
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We do have a problem with our Honda. We have icons on the IP that flash at certain time. Icons are the "battery", "door ajar" and "parking brake". The icons flash when we take our foot off the accelerator and stop when we re-accelerate. Also, if we turn the headlights on during the flashing, it stops. We have a new battery and alternator. A battery check yesterday showed all functions were normal. What could cause this problem and what to do about it.
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I bought a 2004 Honda Accord over the summer. Now the the weather is cooler, I drive with the windows down, and I have noticed there is a "clack" sound when I change gears. It is hard to describe the sound, but it sounds like someone hitting a plate of metal with a hammer. I only hear this sound in first, second and third gear. The engine gets too loud in fourth and fifth gear, so it may just be drowning out the "clack".
I never remember hearing such a sound when I drove a manual transmission back in the late 90s. Is this sound an indicator of a problem? Do I need to take the car into a shop to have them take a look at it?
Additional Information:
Mileage: 106,000I am not the original owner, I purchased it at CarMax, and there was only one owner for the entire life of the car until CarMax bought it. The car looks like it was really cared for by the original owner. CarMax said that the clutch was fine, but...you never know with salesmen.
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So my Honda Civic has been flashing my check engine light, which is telling my my cylinders are misfiring. I checked the ignition coils by removing them while the car was running and cylinder 2 and 3 I can remove and it doesn't change how the car runs. I put a new ignition coil In and that doesn't work so it isn't the ignition coils, what it could be?
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I've got an '02 Jetta GLX with a 09a tiptronic. Last year I had to replace one of the shift solenoids. (Car wouldn't shift out of 1st gear. Now I've got an issue with the car slamming between gears, mostly up shifting. I've ordered the n93 solenoid but I've been reading the post with the symptoms. The job is labor intensive and I really don't want to miss anything. Is there another solenoid I should be replacing.
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My 2001 Honda Accord LX automatic transmission with 103,000 miles has been shifting roughly for about a year. The car is in excellent shape otherwise. I've changed the oil & filter regularly @ 3,000 miles, just had the rotors turned. Last year, based on what the manuel says to do, I had the transmission fluid drained and replaced. It seemed better for about 6 months. The rough shifting seems to happen most when going from 2nd to 1st and vice versa. Last week when I accelerated to take off @ a traffic light it made a huge clunking sound & it was like I went over a speed bump as I took off. That sent me to a transmission shop!
Through a test drive & putting on the scanner, shop #1 says it has a major transmission malfunction & said need to take apart, rebuild & put back together. Shop #2 does the same testing & says basically the same thing & all they can tell me to take it apart & put it back together, with the unknown being what is wrong & what will be the total cost! Shop #3, same testing, but they went a step further and dropped the transmission pan & found the forward clutches in there. They recommended rebuilding transmission, replacing forward clutches which includes torque converter, pump, gasket seals, etc.
My specific questions are:
1) What is the function of the forward clutches?
2) Does the diagnosis & remedy sound correct
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I'm I just purchased a SC430 2002, car make a clicking noise when shifting gears. Example when I turn my car on and shift from Park to Reverse I hear a clicking noise and then when I go from Reverse to Drive it makes a clicking noise. Sometimes it just goes away. Is it a transmission issue or if this is a common sound.
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So I have a 2002 Kia Spectra. I know the IAC has needed replaced for a while but It hasn't really been a n issue at all until today.
So last night my car's transmission started to kick when shifting gears. Mostly between first and second but at other gears sometimes as well. This morning it was still kicking and I figured my transmission was going out.
However when stopped at a stop light I noticed that my car was idling rough. So I turned it off and tried to turn it back on and it wouldn't start. At least not for about 10-15 minutes. So I was wondering if the IAC could be causing the transmission to shift rough at all?
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I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl. with 156k miles.
A couple days ago, the CEL came on. It drove fine, but if I accelerated it wouldn't shift smoothly. It felt like it was hitting the rev limiter.
I took it to get scanned, but the reader didn't work. On my way to another shop, the light went off.
Today, the light came back on with the same symptoms. No shops were open, so I disconnected the battery hoping to reset things, and it worked! No other issues on the way to work. Smooth shifts, smooth idle, simply normal.
Obviously there's an issue. Getting it scanned is a pain; AutoZone and the like cant scan in CA any more. What is the culprit? I'm guessing O2 sensor.
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Had my original clutch replaced by mechanic. Had 200K on it. Car clutch petal vibrates badly when bringing clutch pedal out after shifting. Mechanic states it has to do with motor mounts that were affected when changing clutch or the clutch takes time to seal and stop vibrating in the next 500 miles. I have warranty for 12 months and 12,000 miles. Which I had no problem of vibration before having clutch replaced? What is the problem and how to proceed.
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Got a 02 Jetta 1.8T 5spd auto tiptronic with 100k miles. Having issues with shifting. Trying to determine if its electronic or mechanical. Had a short in solenoid 10 N283 which melted the TCM. Put in a used N283 to see if the trans is still ok mechanically. Plan is if its ok to put new fluids and solenoid pack. What do the experts think does is need a full rebuild or will new electronics do the job?
After putting the used N283 solenoid the trans works but not correct. The problem is in the shifting only. Feels like its out of time. When you start moving from a stopped position from 1st to 2nd the car takes off good but when changing gears it reves and feels like its slipping then it hits hard into 2nd. Then 2nd-3rd is a fast shift and not hard. 3rd-4th slips and revs a little then changes gears 4th-5th is fine. all down shifts are fine. Does not mater if the car is hot or cold its the same.
If I disconnect the MAF 1st to 2nd shifts fine with no problems. 2nd-3rd little rough but not bad. Problem with disconnected MAF when going in Drive at 30-40mph all of a sudden it jumped into 1st gear and felt like I was slamming on the brakes.
With the MAF connected and I shift manually in tiptronic mode each gear runs real good with no slipping at all. But same problem happens when switching gears. I can drive it smooth if i accelerate to 3000 rpm and then left off the gas a little and it shifts fine.. Same with the other gears.
I got a used TCM to rule that out and the problem is close to the same. It tries to shift at lower rpm but still does about the same problem. I did recently had a MAF go out. Put in a new bosch and no change. Did my VCDS scan and only codes I get is "17840 secondary air". I can get operational data on some solenoids but not sure what parameters to look for.
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I've been driving my daughter's Nissan for the past week, trying to figure out what's going on.
Car has about 124K miles. Automatic transmission. Two things happening, neither with total consistency:
(1) Sometimes, primarily from a cold start, car will not shift gears. You'll go past the speed and RPMs where you would have expected the gear to shift, but engine whines on. When you let off the gas, it then shifts. Same from 2nd to 3rd. While in this mode, would not seem to stay in 4th - would briefly shift in (for about a second) , then return to 3rd.
(2) Other item - more frequently, primarily from a warm start, but also from a cold start - car shifts gears at proper time, but there is a distinctive "jolt" as it shifts from 1st to 2nd; not really noticeable in higher gears and the "jolt" can vary in intensity. Almost feels like a broken motor mount, but don't think that's it.
Doesn't happen with scenario (1) described above. Also, while in this mode, I noticed, while highway driving, that if I was at the bottom of a long hill, going 60 and floored it, there would be no power surge. It was not downshifting into 3rd like it should. I would have a long and slow acceleration , with the tachometer holding steady at about 2700 RPMs, not climbing as you would expect.
But, if I was going about 50, then you would get normal hill climb acceleration.My mechanic - whom I've dealt with for a long time and trust - had wanted me to drive it awhile and see what was happening before bringing it in. When describing these symptoms to him, his reaction was "Hmmm - doesn't sound good" but without the quick diagnosis I'm accustomed to from him.
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