Engines - Gasoline - Hummer :: 2003 - Engine Surges 300 To 400 Rpm
Jan 27, 2011
I own a 2003 Hummer H2 with a 6.0 liter vortec engine with only 62,000 miles. At 50 to 55 mph 1500 to 2000 rpm the engine surges 300 to 400rpm with foot steady on the throttle. There is no engine light on and I,ve checked for codes with a code reader from the auto parts store. No error codes. I've cleaned the mass flow air sensor and throttle body with no change. My next thought was to replace the throttle actuator control sensor or accelerator pedal position sensor. I do enjoy working on my own vehicles so have been reluctant to take it into the shop.
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Our 1994 Suburu Legacy runs on Petrol or LPG. For some unknown reason, there is a strong petrol smell in the car. When this happens, the car will eventually stop and the engine stops. There is power, but the engine will not start. Several minutes and many attempts later later, it starts. What may be happening?
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Mazda RX8. Because of the love of his car, he doesn't like to turn off the engine for short stops. That means if we go to a fast food place for takeout, he'll leave the car running while we order and wait for the food to be prepared. To my horror, I realized that he also left the car running while filling up his gas tank - while I was still in the car! I didn't want to ruffle feathers on the first date, so I thought I would ask here first: is it really "that dangerous" to fill up while the car is running? And if so, how can I bring it up without hurting his ego and diminishing my chances of another date?
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93 Mercury Cougar 3.8L V6 with just over 83,000 miles
l've been trying to figure out this issue for ages, but can't seem to find the root of the issue. When driving and accelerating to 40mph, the rpms drop and GET STUCK at exactly 1000rpm. Forcing the accelerator down makes the engine bog and sputter and not go any faster. No check engine lights whatsoever.
The idle is very rough and low in park (700rpm compared to the regular 900) and very low in drive (500 compared to 650-750). When stopped in traffic for a while, it begins to shudder and shake like it wants to stall right there. Now let me run down the extensive list of parts l've thrown at it, bringing only temporary results:
Replaced catalytic converter
Replaced IAC valve
Replaced O2 sensors
Rebuilt transmission (runs great, so l've ruled that out)
Replaced 1fuel injector
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced motor mounts
Cleaned throttle body extensively
I asked a guy at a Firestone and he said that l needed a valve job. Asked another guy at another place, he said l needed a fuel system cleaning. Asked another guy under a tree, said l needed a new speed sensor. What could be the root issue? l was thinking carbon build up over 22 years maybe? Almost all 83k of those miles have been city miles...
This car is my baby, all l want is for it to be able to handle highway speeds without a hiccup. l'm keeping it and plan to see 100k hit the odometer and many more miles!
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After driving 2 hrs on the highway, my 2008 Kia Rio chugs and spits out dark smoke. Last month, shortly after this happened, while exiting the highway, the car lost power completely. I was out of town when this happened. The mechanic couldn't find anything wrong. He did a transmission flush and replaced the crank sensor. It is running again, but the chugging persists after driving 2 hrs on the highway! I am scared of being stranded again. I also think the car is burning oil, as it often is low, and it's not leaking, as far as I can see.
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A few days ago, my 2002 Land Rover Discovery ran out of gas. I've never run out of gas before and when I called AAA and found out that it was just a gas problem my relief outweighed any embarrassment I had about the situation. The AAA guy and I filled the car up and poof- I was on my way..... Since then, the check engine light has come on and although the car runs great when it gets going, it's the getting going part that has become tricky. When I turn the key to start the car, it makes a clank clank chug sound. To get it going, I have to step on the gas and turn the key at the same time. If I do that, the car runs as normal and everything is fine.
I read the reviews for mechanics and have an appointment set. Is it possible that because the car was out of gas, that something else got burned up or junk got into the engine? How a car works but I'm imagining a empty tank that is supposed to feed into something and if nothing is there couldn't residue in the tank get sucked into the thing that it is supposed to feed?
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I have a 1997 Toyota Hilux (unleaded, not diesel) and I'm looking for input as she keeps breaking down but no one is able to figure out the problem. While in gear and driving, the gas stops engaging and the speed slowly drops. The car stutters while slowing down but then if I switch gears or rev the engine it will stop. After some time this continues to happen more frequently (at all speeds) until the car eventually stops and dies. Try to restart and the engine will turn over but not start. After sitting for a night or so, though, she starts up and runs just fine. Thus no mechanics have been able to solve the issue!
Could be a fuel problem as the exhaust pipe makes a banging sound when this happens, but it could also be electrical.
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After my 2005 Nissan Sentra check engine light came on I had the codes read. The code is indicating that there is a lean air/fuel ratio mixture. I'm thinking this may be a false positive(bad sensor), clogged fuel injector, etc. The light has gone off and come back on. I live in Utah where the cold weather may play a factor. How to diagnose the real problem, or where I should start?
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I have a 2003 Ford Focus ZTS with a ZTec 4-cylinder motor, 5-speed manual transmission, @145K miles (one owner). I had the fuel pump replaced in October 2012. For the past couple of months I have had intermittent engine surges when the car is under load, and it is most prevalent when undergoing heavy acceleration or when going uphill. The engine idles smoothly at about 800-1000 rpm. The problem seems most prevalent when I have more than 1/2 tank of fuel in the vehicle.
I have noticed that when the car is in cruise control mode and surges occur the accelerator pedal depresses as if the engine is trying to get more fuel. Spark plugs, Timing belt, tensioner, and water pump were changed approximately 30K miles ago. Alternator replaced @10K miles ago. No visible leaks around the head or valve covers. Vehicle is driven mostly highway miles in low dust environments. Engine light normally doesn't come on, but today the surges were worse than normal and the engine light came on several times over approximately 1 minute interval. Then the surges stopped and the engine light went out and did not come back on.
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We have a 2003 Passat GLX, 43000 miles, V6, AWD. I've noticed recently that when driving at constant speed the engine will surge about once every second or two. It's very regular, and on a smooth road I can also notice a bump in the drive train, very similar to road bumps.
I've taken it to a dealer, since I believe it is a transmission issue, and therefor covered under warranty. There are no computer codes stored for faults in the transmission, they've said. However, they started by pursuing the fuel injection system (though no code was stored), and then wanted to fix a faulty coolant sensor (since found not to be faulty).
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For example. If you are going 30 mph the engine surges. It surges when the throttle is in the same tps location.
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I have a 99 7.3 with 40,000 on a rebuild,injectors I don't know they do pass a buzz test. What happens is when driving say at 30 mph and I am not needing to give it throttle but i don't back all the way off the peddle sort of at a neutral point my engine will sound rough and seems like its not hitting on all cylinders.it runs great when i give it fuel and idles fine its just the point in between it runs erratic.last year when chasing a no power problem. I did rebuild the ipr, new fuel filter, icp and harness,cps and what fixed it was new fuel pressure regulator (brass was gaulded and causing fuel pressure to crash). No mods other than a bullydog tuner that never goes past #2 setting. I do have a auto ingenuity scanner, what to look for or already know what my issue is.
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newly rebuilt 1999 4.3 liter engine in a 1997 truck.
The truck fired right up. After 15 minutes of running, we shut it down and checked the oil. There was a slight white milky fluid in it. I drained the oil which produced more milky fluid. I suspected anti-freeze.
I poured this into a one-gallon oil container and let it sit for a few days. A friend of mine opened the container and immediately smelled gas in the oil.
He mentioned this could be a vacuum issue allowing unburned gasoline to work it's way back into the oil.
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My '03 Tacoma Prerunner V6 has 116K miles and recently lit up its Check Engine light, returning a code for a failed up-stream air/fuel sensor. I recently drove across country, using many different fuel formulations ranging from CA gas to midwest ethanol to whatever they put in the gas here in the NY-NJ area (a mystery ingredient that seems to turn motorists irate and confuse their horn as a turn signal.)Anyway- age, or fuel, what killed the sensor? If fuel, will it happen again by time I get back west?
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Last night I was driving in my 2003 jetta on the intersate at 65mph with the cruise control on. As I came into a turn I had to tap the brakes. As soon as I did the check engine light came on. The car was doing fine so I drove home from school. Today I drove the car to work which is a five minute drive, and back with no problem. I later went to grab lunch and bring it home and then I noticed the check engine light started flashing. I then felt the engine start to stutter, as if it was misfiring. We had the windshield defrost when we started to smell a rotten egg smell. Luckily we were pulling into our drive when we smelled the odor. I immediately turned off the car and got out. I couldn't smell the rotten egg smell, but I did smell burning plastic. I didn't see any smoke and could not pinpoint the cause of the smell.
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My '07 H3 will turn over, but not start, but it only happens about once a week (4 times total as of now). When this happens, if I let it sit and try again in about 15 minutes it will start. I've spoken to 2 mechanics who state that they need to experience it happening to diagnose it. This means I would have to leave my H3 with them for potentially a full week which I can't do. How to handle this? I'd hate to be stranded somewhere in 115 degree heat with my 6-year old.
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Just had our '04 Odyssey with 162K miles to the Honda dealer to have some maintenance work done. Had cabin filter replaced for first time. Out of the service area, I started the engine fine, turned on heat/a-c, adjusting fan speed to high. There's a pronounced hummer noise coming from under the dash near the blower. It's a constant hum, not something associated with some debris that may have been dislodged or floated down into the blower area. The "pitch" of the hum increases/decreases with the blower fan speed. Service personnel came out, to include the manager, and they exposed the area where the filter was replaced; nothing out of place or loose.
Told me I could schedule another appointment to have them clean out the area inside where the filter and blower are located. Told them that service should be provided as a part of the filter replacement if it could be a concern. Although I'm not a car-savvy person, I'm thinking the problem is due to replacing the cabin filter: new filter, increased air flow (and there is a substantial increase of airflow out of the dash ducts) to the fan blower -- which as been operated with a dirty filter for probably a lot of miles and it has "worn" just right, that the increase in airflow is causing the hum. Fan blower spinning faster causing the hum?
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My 1999 5.4l runs great then after driving about 20 minutes, surges & stalls if you try to accelerate. Then the idle surges from 600 to 1500 (back and forth). Connected a fuel pressure gauge, and it shows 30 then drops to near 0 then bounces back to 30 then near 0, then back to 30 etc. No codes are reporting. What to check? Let it cool down, process repeats. Has new fuel pump & filter.
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My 1992 Chevy truck started surging or revving up when in park. It will tac to 1000 rpm's then go back down - up and down. It won't barely drive down the road. Didn't know if this is a fuel pump problem or something more serious. We've replace several parts that were described on the internet as "could be the problem", but nothing has worked.
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I noticed something strange about the engine RPM in two separate trips today: (Note: the graphs are wide and may be shrunk by the web page but can be shown in full size separately if you click on each graph)
As shown in the graphs the RPM oscillates between 0 and ~1300 at ~0.3 Hz. In both times when it occurred I had to do a "pulse" (as in pulse and glide) to come out of the strange state. When it occurred the second time I turned down the radio to listen to the sound of the engine to make sure it was indeed revving and not just a bug in my PriiDash(TM) software. Internally the RPM is reported by one of the ECUs at about 14 Hz. The graphs are plotted at 1 Hz but also keep track of min and max during each 1 second period. I do have the raw data saved so a high resolution graph can be generated if interested.
It was snowing and both times I was going slightly down hill. Before it happened the second time I noticed the traction control warning lighted up briefly, but it was off and no other warning lights were on during the time period of the strange RPM oscillation. Could this be the traction control going out of control (in its effort to rev up the ICE to prevent the MGs from over-revving)?
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03 supercrew 5.4. I've been having problems climbing hills. I'm on a trip and the truck surged fron do then to drive and stopped. Let it sit for 30 mins or so and it was good. Drove another 500 miles ans started again going up some hills. The first time it was 110 out and the 2nd it was 90. I'm pretty sure it's a cop but of course no cel. It does not seem to of over heated either. Can the cops overheat? Do you recommend a diagnostic, will this show up if no cel has show?
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