Engines - Gasoline :: Mazda RX8 - Leaving Car Running While Filling Up With Gas
Aug 5, 2013
Mazda RX8. Because of the love of his car, he doesn't like to turn off the engine for short stops. That means if we go to a fast food place for takeout, he'll leave the car running while we order and wait for the food to be prepared. To my horror, I realized that he also left the car running while filling up his gas tank - while I was still in the car! I didn't want to ruffle feathers on the first date, so I thought I would ask here first: is it really "that dangerous" to fill up while the car is running? And if so, how can I bring it up without hurting his ego and diminishing my chances of another date?
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I own a 2003 Hummer H2 with a 6.0 liter vortec engine with only 62,000 miles. At 50 to 55 mph 1500 to 2000 rpm the engine surges 300 to 400rpm with foot steady on the throttle. There is no engine light on and I,ve checked for codes with a code reader from the auto parts store. No error codes. I've cleaned the mass flow air sensor and throttle body with no change. My next thought was to replace the throttle actuator control sensor or accelerator pedal position sensor. I do enjoy working on my own vehicles so have been reluctant to take it into the shop.
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93 Mercury Cougar 3.8L V6 with just over 83,000 miles
l've been trying to figure out this issue for ages, but can't seem to find the root of the issue. When driving and accelerating to 40mph, the rpms drop and GET STUCK at exactly 1000rpm. Forcing the accelerator down makes the engine bog and sputter and not go any faster. No check engine lights whatsoever.
The idle is very rough and low in park (700rpm compared to the regular 900) and very low in drive (500 compared to 650-750). When stopped in traffic for a while, it begins to shudder and shake like it wants to stall right there. Now let me run down the extensive list of parts l've thrown at it, bringing only temporary results:
Replaced catalytic converter
Replaced IAC valve
Replaced O2 sensors
Rebuilt transmission (runs great, so l've ruled that out)
Replaced 1fuel injector
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced motor mounts
Cleaned throttle body extensively
I asked a guy at a Firestone and he said that l needed a valve job. Asked another guy at another place, he said l needed a fuel system cleaning. Asked another guy under a tree, said l needed a new speed sensor. What could be the root issue? l was thinking carbon build up over 22 years maybe? Almost all 83k of those miles have been city miles...
This car is my baby, all l want is for it to be able to handle highway speeds without a hiccup. l'm keeping it and plan to see 100k hit the odometer and many more miles!
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After driving 2 hrs on the highway, my 2008 Kia Rio chugs and spits out dark smoke. Last month, shortly after this happened, while exiting the highway, the car lost power completely. I was out of town when this happened. The mechanic couldn't find anything wrong. He did a transmission flush and replaced the crank sensor. It is running again, but the chugging persists after driving 2 hrs on the highway! I am scared of being stranded again. I also think the car is burning oil, as it often is low, and it's not leaking, as far as I can see.
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A few days ago, my 2002 Land Rover Discovery ran out of gas. I've never run out of gas before and when I called AAA and found out that it was just a gas problem my relief outweighed any embarrassment I had about the situation. The AAA guy and I filled the car up and poof- I was on my way..... Since then, the check engine light has come on and although the car runs great when it gets going, it's the getting going part that has become tricky. When I turn the key to start the car, it makes a clank clank chug sound. To get it going, I have to step on the gas and turn the key at the same time. If I do that, the car runs as normal and everything is fine.
I read the reviews for mechanics and have an appointment set. Is it possible that because the car was out of gas, that something else got burned up or junk got into the engine? How a car works but I'm imagining a empty tank that is supposed to feed into something and if nothing is there couldn't residue in the tank get sucked into the thing that it is supposed to feed?
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Our 1994 Suburu Legacy runs on Petrol or LPG. For some unknown reason, there is a strong petrol smell in the car. When this happens, the car will eventually stop and the engine stops. There is power, but the engine will not start. Several minutes and many attempts later later, it starts. What may be happening?
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I have a 95 Mazda protege. The battery went dead from leaving the lights on. We jumped it and everything was ok. Drove around, shut it off and it started again, no problem. The next day the car wouldn't start. Had dash lights, and it clicked but this time there is a high pitched noise. It is not an engine noise. I jumped it, it started right up. Tested the alternator, its putting out 14 volts. I could not find the source of the noise. I checked that all doors were closed and that sort of thing. I shut car off to see what would happen, the tone of the noise changed but car hadn't built up enough charge to re start.
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I have a 1997 Toyota Hilux (unleaded, not diesel) and I'm looking for input as she keeps breaking down but no one is able to figure out the problem. While in gear and driving, the gas stops engaging and the speed slowly drops. The car stutters while slowing down but then if I switch gears or rev the engine it will stop. After some time this continues to happen more frequently (at all speeds) until the car eventually stops and dies. Try to restart and the engine will turn over but not start. After sitting for a night or so, though, she starts up and runs just fine. Thus no mechanics have been able to solve the issue!
Could be a fuel problem as the exhaust pipe makes a banging sound when this happens, but it could also be electrical.
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After my 2005 Nissan Sentra check engine light came on I had the codes read. The code is indicating that there is a lean air/fuel ratio mixture. I'm thinking this may be a false positive(bad sensor), clogged fuel injector, etc. The light has gone off and come back on. I live in Utah where the cold weather may play a factor. How to diagnose the real problem, or where I should start?
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I have a 2010 Mazda 3, and I live in Seattle where I find myself waiting at red lights for up to 4 minutes sometimes, and in these situations I turn off my car. Does this save any gas, or is it about equal to the amount it takes to re-start the car?
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A few months ago my car started whining at highway speeds. The noise has increased in pitch and volume, and is not dependent on engine speed--in fact, if I turn the engine off and coast, the whine persists, lowering in pitch (and getting quieter) when the car slows down. Recently the car has also started vibrating when I turn slightly to the right, as when I change lanes on the highway or bank right on a long turn (sharp right turns from a full stop don't elicit any noise). Do I have a problem with my alignment? I notice my tire wear looks a bit uneven.
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I have Prius 2007, base model + package 2 & no upgrades. Not sure if it came with HID. It does not have a fog light.
I parked the car in front of a restaurant and waited. Turned off the headlights while waiting with engine running. Fiddled with the interior panel brightness dial a bit. When I turned on the car again the headlights wouldn't turn on - both of them. Drove home with hi-beam.
Checked the fuses H-LP LO for both RH & LH sides. They seem fine.
Asked wife to turn on/off headlights from stick - I could hear the click in the relay - so DIM relay is ok. With stick knob set to headlights and car running asked for the stick to be pushed to turn on/off high-beam- Could hear the relay engage + high beam on/off.
I looked closely to see if the mirror is moving - no movement. Just found it is possible for the same bulb to be High & low beams when there is no mirror movement with dual filament bulbs.
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I have a 07 Mazda3 with 120k miles. I had a staring problem first time in gas station like 2 weeks ago and since then only anytime that I go to gas station. After car leave the gas station every thing is normal. Since then the check light popped on too. I have diagnosed it, it gave me two errors P0177 and P0446. I have check the gas cap, it is sturdy. Even I replaced the cap and have reset the check light. But it came back on still same errors.
As I've mentioned there is an old discussion in in your website, but it's closed. For refresh you can check it here if needed [URL] ....
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My check engine light came on today and my fan has been running pretty loud for the last couple of days. Also when I start hitting the gas under 1500 rpm there is a little rattle that I can here but it goes away around 1500 rpms and you can also hear it if you let of the gas and let the rpms go down then hit the gas again pretty hard?? It is a 2000 lincoln ls with the v8 around 110k, and i have had numerous problems with it. About 6 months ago i replace about 5,000$ worth of parts including, head gaskets, coolant clutch pump, power steering pump, timing chains or belts, and other things because I was having overheating problems.
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I used to get really good mileage on my 12.5 mile commute, if I didn't reach 50 miles per gallon, I considered it a poor commute. But over the last several hundred miles, I have only averaged about 45 miles per gallon - sometimes I'm not even reaching 40 mpg. I checked my tires, they are fine. I also notice that the gasoline engine is running a lot. I'll be at a stop sign, and the battery is nearly full, but the gas engine is running.
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I have a 2009 4cyl GLS with a manual trans (about 18K miles). For the past few months, I have been noticing a faint gasoline odor both in my car and around my car after it has been running for awhile. And yes I have checked and it is not on my shoes or floor mats. The car does not smell until I get off the interstate etc... At first I thought it was another car around me that is giving off the odor but after many trips without cars near me, I can smell it and my passengers notice it too. It does not seem to happen when it is full, usually only around a half tank or less. I checked all around and under the car for any signs of leaks and found none, just wafts of gasoline odor. My MPGs is not off so I must not be leaking too much but the odor is getting worse.
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I know the issue of slow filling of the gas tank has been discussed extensively, but I haven't seen it discussed in the context of a cold car only.
Briefly, I have a 2010 VW Golf and if it has not been running for ~10-15 minutes, the gas pump clicks off as if it is full within 0.2-0.3 gallons. It doesn't even go into the tank and just spills out everywhere. Even in hot weather, if the car hasn't been running for a while (eg. overnight or all day at work), it needs 10-15 minutes of the engine running and then it will fill up all the way without problems. It's not an issue of the gas pump because I will just leave the car running at the gas station and 10 minutes later, I can fill up without a problem.
It's still under warranty but the dealer won't do anything because they can't reproduce it (too many red lights between the dealer and the gas station so the car is warmed up by they time they fill up gas). I haven't seen any issues online of slow fill being dependent on the car temperature.
Any specific things to ask them to check out that they could detect is damaged without being able to reproduce the problem?
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I've had the car for 130k/2 yrs, and been very happy with it. Will definitely buy another. That said, I'm puzzled. Yesterday and today, after it had run for 10-20 minutes at surface-street speeds (so was warmed up), I got stuck at a lengthy traffic light and noticed a distinct smell of gasoline - not other cars' exhaust, but a fuel smell coming in on the blown air in the cabin. I have done no mechanical work on the car, or spilled gas into the glove box.
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As I mentioned earlier I have a 2001 Ford Focus and for the past month I've been smelling gasoline in the interior of the car, especially when the heater is running and the car has just started. My mechanic, as yet, had been unable to discover a source of the gasoline fumes. The fumes are so strong that if a source cannot be found the car is, for all-intents-and-purposes undrivable. If this problem cannot be resolved, there is a real possibility that I'll have to get a new car. What, if any thing, do I tell prospective buyers, should I decide to sell the car?
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A few weeks ago my car was running perfectly fine, i filled it up with fuel and then it started running a bit rough. Would drive ok but could feel it surging and if i backed off on the accelerator it would try stall.Also the fumes in the car were a lot stronger than usual. Got home and it stalled, started it up and was idling rough and blowing black smoke :/ no engine light has come on though. I did the typical thing and googled possibilities, the mojority said that it was the purge control valve so i replaced that with a new elantra one (part numbers were the same) and its still running rough We are now thinking it could be the oxygen sensor? Have checked vacuum lines and stuff for air leaks and cant find any. Unplugged the oxygen sensor while car was running and it made no difference at all.. If the oxygen sensor was working properly it would of affected how the car was running, right?
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I have a 2000 hyundai accent and when i fill with fuel it surges like its running out of fuel and stalls when fuel is gets low it runs fine.
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