Will a 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.4L turbo engine wear out / break down / fail sooner than a 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.8L engine ( w/o the turbo ) ? Both being automatic transmissions. Driven by the same person. What is the gas mileage difference between the same two ?
View 17 RepliesHow important is acceleration in defensive driving? If someone were extremely concerned with safety (because there’s a baby in the car, for instance) would it be worth sacrificing fuel efficiency for the extra power of a V6 engine?
View 19 RepliesThe engine light came on so I took it to a mechanic to get it checked. I was told that the PCV valve was bad. They told me that the valve needs changed and the valve cover gasket needs changed. Does this sound correct for a PCV valve?
View 13 RepliesI am a member of the 'engine off at red light' club, as I have found it to conseve significant gasoline in my town. My question has to do with actions prior to restarting the engine.
Years ago, when cars had distributors containing breaker points, it as generally recomended NOT to turn the key ON for an extended period prior to starting the engine. The given rational was that such action could cause the points to burn and pit.
Today, most cars have individual igniters for each plug, and the points in a distributor are history. Is there any danger to turning the ignition ON for a period prior to starting (or restarting) the engine? This action minimizes the 'time to start and get moving' away from a traffic light recently turned green.
We just bought our 2012 Chevy Cruze in April (it was a rental return) and in the last couple of weeks the (computerized) radio has started to go berzerk. It doesn't do it all the time -- which is why the dealership hasn't caught it yet -- but when it does, it keeps rebooting itself in the manner of this other 2012. Will the car suddenly die on us without warning? We're going to make the dealership take it back if they can't find the cause and fix it.
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I have a 2014 cruze, and when I press down the brake there is a loudish noise that sounds like air blowing out that I hear coming from the outside of my car. When this happens, my brake pedal also pushes closer to the floor. I noticed this maybe 1 month after I purchased, so I'm not sure if this is standard or something I should be concerned about.
View 4 RepliesI have a new 2012 Chevy Cruze with 10,000 miles on it. Chevy has issued service bulletins citing a problem that they can't seem to diagnose or repair (yet) and my car has the problem. They tell me their engineers are working on it. After the car is a little warm, when I apply the break there is a loud squeaking or whirring noise which pulsates at the speed of the tires (in other words, as I slow down, the intervals between each sound gets longer and longer). I suspect it is coming from the back. First they thought it was sticking calipers until they realized that I have drum brakes on the rear. It is loud enough that the only way no to hear this grating noise is to blast the radio.
View 2 RepliesBrand new. On start up when first accelerating I hear a weird bottoming out kind of scrapping noise and a tiny hitch in accelerating. Only happens once once after start up. Maybe 50% of the time this will happen on start up. What this may be?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2012 Cruze with a manual transmission. I have 43000 miles. When I down shift into 2nd gear I get a whining noise from under the car. I can shift it with no issues and no noise but when down shifting or turning in 2nd gear it whines.
View 19 RepliesI drive a 2011 Tundra 5.L 4X4 truck. why do I get better gas mileage while driving in the Rockies vs states like OK and TX? I get 2mpg better while driving in the Rockies. 17mpg vs 15mpg. I drive same speed, buy the same 87 octane gas & drive on Interstate highways. And it doesn't matter whether I'm driving to or from. Is the gas quality different in the Rockies vs the south or plains states?
View 19 RepliesWhat is the point that the headspacer fitment doesn't affect the fitting of the upper timing chain considering that the time chain rails etc are brand new also i have seen fitment with a 2mm headspacer plus a spilt oem headgasket which is rougly 0.65mm to give 9,1:1 cr if i am not mistaken,is this the limit then if going with two full oem headgaskets and a 2mm headspacer which will give us a result of 8,8:1 cr do u think that the timing chain will not fit?
View 1 RepliesSo yesterday i decide to race one of my friend and a couple of seconds later i get a CEL. So today in the morning i went to autozone to check what the problem is with a scanner and i get this:
Did i f up my turbo? I am APR 2+ with only 4700 miles, what should i do?!
So my CEL is on. My turbo seems like it's constantly on, there doesn't seem to be any boost, and lowered power. So I have been wondering what this could be.
View 10 RepliesI currently have a N/A 97 celica st which I am going to turbo. I was going to use a ct26 turbo but can't seem to find a turbo manifold. Can I buy one or just use a manifold suitable for the turbo and weld my exhaust flange to that?
View 2 RepliesI recently purchased a 1991 Volvo Turbo 740 with 186,000 miles on it. It runs perfect for a few days and then when parked will not start. Attempt to start 1/2 hour later it starts and runs perfect again. It has done that for several days now. I have driven it to locations approximately 40 miles round trip with frequent stops for a period of time and then start up again. This AM it started up perfect as I moved it from a driveway to part in front of my house on the street. Several hours later I went to start it but it would not start. 1/2 hour later I decided to try one more time before calling the tow truck to take to a mechanics and it started up perfect again. I drove it to the library and bank later and ran perfect after the two stops. This is driving me nuts since I had taken it to a mechanic when it did this Monday and it ran great at the mechanics and he could not determine what was wrong. He told me WHEN it stops again to have it towed in and he could determine at that time when it was not running.
View 7 Replies99 volkswagen passat 1.8T ... The turbo have like a fluttering noise when i let off, I just installed a APR chip. Is it a dieverter valve or something.
View 2 RepliesIs it bad if there is oil coming out of the valve cover breather going into the turbo inlet? I noticed the sides of the turbo inlet on the top is lightly covered in oil.
View 3 RepliesWhen i accelerate, i can hear the turbo, i don't know if its a problem though.
I drive a 18 wheeler for work, and sometimes when i'm goin down a hill and i accelerate, i get no power, just hearing the turbo loud and clear with no power.
But i barely hear it on the passat, i don't know if its good or bad.
I took the wagon to the dealer for servicing due to an oil leak. However, before taking it in, I put the car up on ramps and took a peek to see what was the culprit. I noticed that oil was dripping from the turbo area. Nine days ago they performed the following repair:
--> Cause:Gasket for the turbocharger pipe leaking.
--> Fix: Installed a new gasket, added engine dye to check for any other leaks and no more leaks were found after repair.
However, today I noticed oil in my garage floor again from the same spot.
So about 30 minutes ago my exhaust broke between the turbo and cat. I guess I could weld it back but the pipe is a little rusty. Should I just get a turbo back and call it good and if so what brand and where do I get one for a 01 passat 1.8t
View 1 RepliesMy 20th just hit 107k and in the past couple days I have noticed that my car is somewhat sluggish compared to normal and there is also a VERY audible whine when I take off from a stop.
The same thing happened to my friend's Turbo 300zx when his turbo went out and I think that may be whats happening to mine.
This is the perfect excuse for me to replace my K03 with a more respectable turbo like a K04 hybrid or possibly a BT setup. What I'm wondering is how expensive these options are and how worth it are they. I know you can get away with not upgrading certain things when going BT, but I want to do things right to avoid problems down the road
SO....
I currently have Stage 1 APR software, DG Short shifter, and and itg SRI.
I'm not trying to build a 500hp fwd beast, but what all is considered necessary to run a BT without issues and what would the price be? Again, estimates are totally fine, I can locate parts if i know what to look for
And lastly: What is the general opinion of the ATP Eliminator? I haven't heard much about it and all of my research is fairly inconclusive. I'm just trying to weigh my options.