Engines - Cadillac - Dts :: 2006 - Quick Miss / Just Dies Instantly
Sep 15, 2011
Bought my DTS with 46,000 miles, one year ago. I have driven 31,000 miles since. Once in a while, maybe once a month, at 65 or 70 mph it will just hiccup once and keep going. Just one quick miss. About 6 or 8 times in a year it has just died going 30mph or pulling into a driveway or up to stop sign. It does not sputter or miss, simply just dies instantly. So far it has always started right back up. The only code it has ever shown, was mass air flow sensor twice. It looks ok and I did clean it.
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When I make a quick start I get a clunk kind of sound that appears to be from the area near the transmission shift lever on the console between the seats. If I really do a jack rabbit start, it will clunk repeatedly until I let up on the gas or the car gets up to speed.
Is this a broken Engine or Transmission mount? 2005 Cadillac SRX....
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I have a 2004 Cadillac it started to miss when your idling, a check engine light when on and it was #5 plug not firing so I changed the plugs in front 4 of them and also bought a coil pack and replaced that, but it still misses. What else can I check before thinking its a sticky Valve or internal engine problems.
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I have a 2001 Silverado 5.3 with 145,000 miles. It runs great, lots of power and starts immediately, except for the other day. I drove to work and it was up to full operating temp, shut it off and came out 2 hours later and it cranked just fine and fired but died immediately. Repeated attemps got the same results. It would run for about 1 second and die. I tried starting it about 10 times in a row. I tried it again an hour later and its run perfect for the last 2 days, no hesitations.
The outside temp was about 65.
No check engine lite or any other lights came on.
No weird sounds.
New battery.
The fuel pump was changed out at a reputable Chevy dealership 3 years ago and about 40K. I haven't checked for any codes, or fuel pressure. It acts like a fuel pump failing, hiccups once in awhile and then leaves you stranded when you least expect it. But.....It started up instantly after sitting for an hour, meaning it had fuel waiting in the wings. I am thinking its likely electrical, a sensor? But shouldn't I be getting a light?
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Ok I finally got my truck to start, but it dies instantly. I had a friend of mine who is a mechanic look at it and he said gas wasn't filling up the front bowl, but gas was pumping? Could something have happened when the carb was rebuilt?
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I have a 96 Cadillac Deville Sedan. Last year, I had problems with the heat and A/C working intermittently. Then both crapped out. I went the summer without A/C...waiting for winter. Have gone all winter with no heat, which is not a huge problem, since I live in Florida. However, I'm planning on taking this car on a 1600 mile journey to Maine. So on Thursday, my bf installed a new HVAC fan motor. Or, yeah, whatever you call them. It worked and the car produced heat. I had a parade to go to Thursday night, so I drove the car there and it was fine. On my way home, the car was revving, like I was driving a lawn mower. Then, while I was still driving at a low speed, the mph went to 0. During the 10 mile drive home, which included interstate, the mph returned and the car acted normal. Then the mph went to 0 again. The speed sensor failure light came on, along with the check engine light.
I thought maybe while replacing the fan motor, the bf might have unhooked the speed sensor. This makes sense to me. But the bf checks and can't find anything obvious.
Today, when I first start driving the car, it again sounds like a lawnmower. The rmp is into the 3000 and 4000 range, while I am driving (approx) 15 mph. If I step on the gas, the car lurches forward, then returns to lawnmower status. The mph is showing 0. The instant mpg is also remaining at 0. The fuel range is showing numbers, but they are not correct, since there are 14 gals of gas in the car and the range is at like 85 miles and declining. I get around 20 mpg. So that's not an accurate range. After a few miles, the car stops over-revving and sounds normal. On the interstate entrance ramp, the mph started working, and worked for several minutes, then reverted back to 0.
So, to summarize. The check engine light is on all the time. The speed sensor failure light comes on in the beginning. The struggling lawnmower act lasts for the first few miles. Lurching if I step on the gas. Then, it might drive normally. The mph stays at 0. Every once in a while, the mph will start working, then stop again. What could have happened during this fan motor repair to have caused this? Or is this just a huge coincidence?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Echo that had been sitting for a few months. Recently I tried to start it and it will not start. It sounds like it is wanting to start and occasionally starts for a brief moment but then instantly dies. I have been doing some research to see what could be the problem and my guess is that pulley on the ac compressor is not turning.
My first question I guess is whether that sounds correct or could it be something that I am overlooking.
My second question is, if it is the compressor, how can I fix it. I do not want to replace the compressor, I have seen how much this can cost. I would prefer to just eliminate the ac all together. I saw a question on yahoo in a similar case where someone mentioned a bypass pulley, but I haven't been able to find any for my vehicle.
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Here's a little about the car before I start about the problem because my car is very custom. It is a 84 pontiac trans am with 305 H.O. code G engine V8. It was completely redone about three years ago and runs great. We did delete most of the computer control stuff and emissions. We now have a vacuum controlled distributor instead of the original computer controlled one. There is no engine light to check now and here's why. We have converted the car into K.I.T.T. from Knight Rider, so the entire gauges on the dash have been turned into digital gauges including the speedometer.
The new gauges run off of the same power that the old ones did. But we have added a separate switch to turn just the dash on for car shows so we don't have to turn the key on. it goes to the fuse for the computer/ gauges and a few other little things. We also have two lcd screens installed and a computer.
Now for my problem. The car still runs great no issues with how it runs or sounds engine wise. It doesn't matter if it is cold,hot, wet, or dry. I can go down the road and all of the sudden all the power to the dash will flicker off and on. I usually lose my speedometer then and don't know how fast I'm going. It will not power up fully unless the car is started normal. The car has to have the gas pumped a few times before starting normal. No biggie. Now, the entire dash will flicker and sometimes when it goes out in the middle of driving, the car just dies. About a week ago everything lost power. No headlights, flashers, interior lights or power to start the car. After a few minutes, one by one the things starting to work.
Interior lights first, then headlights and five minutes later the dash lights come back and the ignition has power again.Went to town the other day and drove for an hour and no issues at all. Today, the lights flashed on the dash, get home, shut the car, turn it back on and fine. Waited a while and had the door open. Shut the car off and it lost power to the ignition. Interior lights were on but no power when you turned the key. The radio would flicker on/off real quick, but no power to the dash or to start the car. Turn the key to acc mode and the radio works but again no power in the on position to start the car or turn on the dash.Now, we can turn on the extra switch to power the dash and it will come on but not when I turn the key.About ten minutes later of just sitting and the car was back to normal. Turn the key and power was back and started right up.
Here's what I've done. Battery and alternator checked out fine, checked all ground cables to firewall, starter, etc, looked for lose wires or melted wires, took distributor cap off and check that area, clean battery cables wires, looked for any corroded or dirty wires, made sure all wires were tight. I even went under the dash and put in a new ignition switch ( I don't ever want to do that again. That was a pain in the neck and I really mean in the neck) Still the same issue. It seems like something is getting hot and causing power to be shut off to the ignition and keeping power from getting to the ignition/dash until it cools off. I hate these kind of issues because it is so hard to track down.
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My son's 1991 Honda Accord was running real rough. The temperature gauge did not budge from cold. I changed out the thermostat. When I tried to start it it started great then coughed and shuddered and then died. It keeps starting and then dying. I took off the IAC and flushed it with mass air flow cleaner. The screen over one of the ports was all crudded up. It cleaned up OK. However then I put it back it improved for a minute and then died again. I have checked for vacuum leaks but found none.
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My car (Nissan 1998) runs normally for miles. Then sometimes it just starts lurching while in motion when the gas is depressed and looses speed, as if not getting fuel. Previous times it dies after this. The last time I was on the highway going 70 and I pulled over before it lost power and died completely. Just had new brakes installed, new distributor, all new belts, and an oil leak fixed by a mechanic.
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Background: Sonata 2009 Limited. 165K Miles. Original factory installed everything. Chicago area.
Last week I drove to the mall in the snow. Headlights worked fine. Upon leaving the mall I realized that my low beam headlights were not working.
Purchased and installed one low beam headlight bulb, on the slim chance that both of them simply burned out at the same time. It didn't come on.
Results of an internet search indicated that the fuse might be blown. I pulled the 20amp Low Beam headlight fuse and sure enough it was bad. Put in a new fuse. Turned on the headlights and it blew instantly.
Have been driving with the high-beams the past 5 days. Only one car has "blinked" at me, so driving with the high-beams isn't a problem. Probably because there are so many cars with really bright low-beam headlights these days.
However, I would like some guidance to getting this problem resolved. What are the most likely reasons for the low-beam headlight fuse blowing instantly like this?
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My year-old Camry hybrid stalled out last night. It was the second time this has happened. The first time, about a month ago, I made a quick start from a light, followed by a quick stop, both actions to avoid an accident. (I was about to get rear-ended and scooted into the intersection to give the guy closing in my mirror more room.) After the stop, the car had no power but it started up, no problem. Last night, I was about a minute into my trip, stopped at a light, and the power just died. Again, it started no problem.
This time I noticed that the radio went out. Not sure about the headlights. The emergency blinkers came on at the touch of the button before I restarted. In both cases, I stepped on the accelerator and got no power. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem, of course, and whatever interrogation they did of the systems found no faults. They had to be convinced that I knew the difference between an actual stall and just going from gas to electric. It's kind of disconcerting to just stall out in the middle of the street. And I'm concerned that this is a problem that could get worse -- probably just after the warranty lapses.
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So I'm trying to figure out my brake problem and trying to get my ABS to kick in.... Someone suggested I try doing a quick stop to get my ABS to kick in to see if my brake booster is working or not.
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My 2006 Cadillac misfires when I attempt to accelerate. My mechanic doesn't know what to do?
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I have a 2006 CTS, 3.6. 128k miles. Always changed the oil myself at 3,000 miles religiously. A few months ago, the car began to "jump" or hesitate when accellerator pushed. Not right away, but after car reached about 30 mph. Again when on it reached about60 mph on highway. It cruises fine, but if you push it, it stutters a bit and the check engine light flashes, Then regains it's composure and away it goes. I noticed that when I changed the oil, the filter is filthy, filthy. Always has been. Use the right oil and all.
Now, I take it to a local national automotive chain and they tell me it is misfiring on #6 and needs plugs, coils and the works. So I had them do it. The car still jumps at same intervals. So i take it back and now it is misfiring on ALL plugs ( or so the computer says). Now the mechanic tells me that the timing chains are all buggered up and the engine needs to be replaced. So I seek another it to another garage and they say that they see the same codes, but don't think it is in need of new engine. They would like to keep it anid see if they can find the problem. A week passes and they can't diagnose the problem.
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Daughter's 09 Accent 86k miles making a very quick hiss when accelerating rapidly and/or uphill about a half second before first shift. Hiss stops noticeably before the shift happens. She reports a slight 'kickback' in the pedal, but I noticed no power loss when the passenger seat. No check engine light. Car has an aftermarket cruise. Sound seems to be coming from the right-ish side of the vehicle and outside the cabin. Doesn't occur under 'grandpa' driving conditions. Pretty much only when using the accelerator as a binary switch.
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My 2006 Volvo S60 turbo has about 116K miles and noticed a couple times when I punch the gas to accelerate quickly (like to pass someone on the interstate) that it will make this quick jerky thing (as though I ran over some rumble strips). I normally drive like a grandma so this has only happened a couple times. Today I was on the interstate and decided to test this out and sure enough it would quickly bump-bump-bump before the gas/acceleration kicked in. It never stalled, but now I am paranoid.
Also, it occasionally "feels" like it takes the car longer than normal to start. There is no pattern to this. It will happen first thing in the morning, but I have noticed it more often when I stop to drop my son off and get back in the car. I will crank the key and the RPM dial will shoot up twice really quickly and then be normal.
Maybe you should also know that when I first got the car, I filled it up with gas and started driving and it died. We checked the fuses and the fuel pump fuse had burned out so we changed it and all was right again.
I bought this as a high mileage car (60K) in 2007 and have not done much to it since (air filter, oil, tires, brakes). Yes, that means I have not gotten my transmission fluid changed or any recommended dealer maintenance.
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Since they replaced my transmission at 40,000 miles, I've noticed that occasionally, but not always, there is an unusual quick half second jerk or jump feeling when I first crank the car on a cold start. It doesn't happen all the time, just some times, but it has to be a cold start when I do feel it. What this could be? I'm thinking maybe some bolts weren't put tight enough when they installed the new transmission?
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My daughters 2010 Sonata has a occasional problem that is very disturbing. When she is slowly pulling into a a parking spot or into her garage, the car will make a lurch forward. Just a quick acceleration and then back to normal. So far she hasn't damaged anything but its just a matter of time. She has taken it to a neighborhood independent garage.
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I am having a problem with my 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero Combi Wagon w/130k miles. When idling, driving up hills, and accelerating to pass, the engine seems to miss multiple cylinders. I've had all spark plugs replaced within the last year, and all the cylinder coils were checked after bringing the car in for this problem (one was replaced). I took the car in yesterday to address this problem and the mechanic stated that he didn't know what to do. The check engine light is on, and the mechanic told me that the readout states that their might have been a problem with the gas cap, but they checked it out and it looked sound. Could this be a fuel pressure problem? spark plug wires?
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We've got a 2006 F150 with a 5.4 in it. One of the new kids was told to change the spark plugs, then when I went to start the truck the next day it was missing bad. Plugged in the Ford IDS, number 7 cylinder is dead. Only codes are for that cylinder misfire, and random miss on startup. So, I double checked the kids work and it was all fine. Tried putting a new plug in, didn't work. Moved the coil to a different cylinder to see if the miss would jump, stayed on number 7.
Used a noid light to verify COP harness was working, and it was. Put a new coil on it anyway since I had one, still missing. Used noid light to verify signal going to injector for the cylinder. Signal was good, replaced the injector for the cylinder. Still misfiring. Ran a compression test and the cylinder has good compression. The threads for the plug are fine, not cross threaded or torn out. The only thing I can think is that the PCM has gone bad in a way that its firing the injector/COP, but doing so at the wrong time some how.
Every other cylinder is running fine, O2 sensors fine. PCM isn't trimming anything back to account for anything, and if it was it would do it to multiple cylinders to keep the engine balanced. Cant think of any more tests, and I don't believe there is anyway that the airflow could be restricted to only 1 cylinder, but I could be wrong. Wanna try and solve this to keep from sending it to the dealer.
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