Engines :: CEL On For P0125 Code On 2002 Toyota Corolla
Jun 18, 2016
I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla. On a hot day (the first in a while), I got a check engine light for P0125. I'm going to clear it and see if it comes back. I think it is a false alarm for insufficient engine coolant. If the code and check engine light come back, what should I do?
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The check engine light for my V6 Toyota Solara is on for the codes P0125, P1133, and P1135. I changed the Bank 1 oxygen senor in addition to the temperature coolant sensor. During the drive back home from the mechanic the check engine light came back on, so I went back to the mechanic and was told that maybe the sensor was defective. The Denso sensor was exchanged, but again, the check engine light came back on. Have I been buying faulty parts or is there a different problem? The first time the oxygen sensor was changed smoke started coming out from the exhaust and from under the hood.
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I have a Toyota Corolla 99 that I have owned for a bit over 2 years; it has 97500 miles. After around 2,000 miles after an oil change it starts burning oil (no smoke or smell). I tried to check it often to make sure I am not running on empty. The last time I had to fill it up once and top off a bit another time before the oil change. I recently also changed the serpentine belt.
I thought the serpentine belt was the noise I was hearing when idling. Now, the noise is still there. Does not get worse when accelerating so hoping it is not a engine knock. Was told by Autozone guy that might be the iddle throttle. Hard to describe noise. No clank, almost like something spinning with a noise every 2 seconds.
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I have received a code twice during really cold weather and I think it is P0125. This says that the cylinder head temp. sensor is recording too low of operating temperature. The question is two fold. What happens if you do not change it? Second I have read that you have to remove the whole intake manifold to replace it. Any easier way to replace it than removing the whole intake manifold? I have looked for the darn thing and can not even see where it is located.
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My son bought his first truck, 1998 Ford F150 Supercab 4.6L Auto. (Proud of Him)
Salvage Flood Title, looks like engine been replaced. (Not so proud of him).
Anyway, vehicle seems to run and drive fine, however, failed emissions test.
P0125 Code pops up, Temp Gauge is not working, pegs all the way hot after truck is running, changed out Both ECT's in front of engine, one is right beside the other, I guess one goes to PCM and other to Gauge.
Now Gauge is reading all the way cold, let run for over 30 minutes and still shows nothing on Gauge...
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I'm getting error P0125 on my 2001 Echo, which points to possibly a faulty ECT sensor.
Where is this sensor located? Seems like under the air box? Is replacing this part as annoying as it looks? And, are there any other possible causes for code P0125?
In case it's related, I will mention that code P0171 (mixture too lean, I believe) is present as well, and the car does hesitate upon initial acceleration when standing still. Once it's moving, it works fine.
Maybe it's time to start thinking about replacing this car... it has 216,000 miles...
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I get this code, p171, every so often on my corolla. I have cleaned the MAF and finally changed it with one bought at AutoZone. I still get the code. What should I do next?
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After a new distributor, check engine light coming on, getting a code 52, they (Toyota Dealership) replaced knock sensor. Unfortunately it seems to improve a little bit, but same issues happen; engine not running smooth at times. 94 Corolla. In the 223,000 mile club. 1.6
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I've been getting a P0133 trouble code on my 2001 Toyota Corolla and am stumped as to what is causing it. I've ruled out the obvious stuff: I replaced the upstream O2 sensor and can vouch for the lack of exhaust leaks, since I replaced the entire exhaust system myself a few months back and checked again for leaks after getting the code a few weeks back. I haven't replaced the spark plugs yet (they're definitely overdue) or cleaned the MAF sensor (I've heard that these could be the culprits) and will probably do both this weekend.
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My sister was driving my '02 Corolla (120K miles) this morning when the RPM's started to fluctuate between 1500-2500 for a few seconds. Did it on the highway (60 mph) and then again on a city street (45 MPH). Then back to normal. Had a tune up etc less than 2 months ago.
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Still P0303 code after: New spark plugs, new spark plug wiring, new coils, new injectors, full tune up. 99 Corolla 147,000 miles. What else could it be? o2 senor? or maybe intake manifold leak? valve leak? what am I missing?
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I've been chasing this P0171 code for over a year now. STFT is normal plus minus 5 but LTFT won't go below 21.1%. At highway speeds the lowest the LTFT will go is 10-15% then goes back up to 21.1% at idle.
Things I've done:-
- New the air intake gasket to the Orange one
- Cleaned the MAF sensor
- New PCV
- Smoke test reveal nothing (vacuum is at 21-24 in-Hg) (did not smoke test the exhaust yet)
- Changed to used fuel pump. Funny thing here is that now when I shift the car to park the STFT steady increases to 25%. The old fuel pump never done this. But the car feels like it has more power now.
- New gas cap
- Cleaned TB
- Cleaned fuel injectors and flow tested
- New A/F sensor and downstream O2 sensor
All parts were either genuine Toyota parts or OEM Denso. My next course of action is to buy a new Denso fuel pump or replace the ignition coil pack.
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Just as the title says, 214k great shape just wont get going more you mash the less it goes.... fuel pump already replaced, can undo battery and take a while to reset feels to do fine then goes back to bogging down... TPS ? idle air control?
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When I stop for a few minutes, such as at a light, or making a left hand turn, my car hesitates. The place I take it to cannot find the problem and they have replaced a lot of things in it, but still no change. It is a 2002 car, so it is a little older, but I have always kept it in good shape, it has 65,000 miles on it.
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About two weeks ago, while driving on a hot, humid summer night, the check engine light in my 1998 Toyota Corolla came on. The following day, I took it into my mechanic, who plugged it in and came up with the code P0441 (Purge flow fault). He told me it was likely related to the fuel vapor canister, though I see this can also have to do with vacuum lines for the purge valve and canister or a bad purge valve itself. My gas cap was, and had been, tight, so it wasn't something as simple as that.
Reluctant to deal with this immediately, I went back to driving it, and lo and behold - the light went off after several days! Unfortunately, the light came BACK ON after several more. And most recently (a few days after coming on again), the light has now gone off!
Both times the light has gone off, the weather has been rather wet, but otherwise, there doesn't seem to be a clear pattern. What this on again off again pattern might say about the problem?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla CE with about 115,000 miles.While I was traveling on the highway my car started shaking, losing power, and the check engine light started flashing. I drove a mile or two to a rest area because I didn't want to pull over on the highway. I had it towed home. It starts and idles, but I'm afraid to get it out on the road.
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Had the oil changed today; before doing so, I saw that the check engine light had come on. Have been told by 3 professional car maintenance people that there is no connection between needing oil / oil change and check engine, that it would have been the check maintenance light.
Will take it in for diagnostic test by dealer. Also, was told by the oil change guy that he heard pinging which could mean that the car needs to have the valves adjusted, and that the check engine light is due to needing something or other with the gas tank filter which could have a leak/crack, etc.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla, mileage app. 106,000. Check engine light first came on when driving to destination 40+ miles away (most of my driving is shorter, around-town trips). My mechanic said code is P0420 and so they reset it and said if it comes on again that I need a new cat converter. It did not come on until about 6 weeks later when I was on a longer trip again (had driven about 40-50 miles). Can you tell me if the P0420 code absolutely means that a new cat. conv. is needed or if it could possibly be a sensor or something else hopefully less costly than a new cc?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla CE with 160,000 miles on the odometer. While driving at highway speeds (50+ mph), if I let off the gas ever-so-slightly, an audible ticking (like the sound of a sewing machine) begins. It immediately goes away as soon as the motor begins to decelerate or accelerate again. It ticks the loudest while the motor is directly in between accelerating and decelerating, while I am trying to maintain the speed I am traveling at. The sound started 6 months ago and was almost unnoticeable, but has gotten steadily louder the more I drive it. From what I have already researched, I believe it might the valve lifters needing to be changed, but wanted to get a second opinion.
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I've recently bought a 2002 toyota corolla wagon. I noticed the transmission fluid of the automatic gearbox has been overfilled. This measurement was with a cold and switched off engine and on a level ground. Is this something I should be concerned about and can it cause damage? Should I have it drained to the normal level or is it ok to keep it this way? I didn't come with a manual so I'm not sure if i measured correctly.
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I have an 05 Toyota corolla, and have the check engine light on, I scanned it at autozone and error code is P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1). Which shows following possible causes: Faulty MAF, O2, fuel injectors blockage etc. On recommendation from the guy in autozone, I added fuel additive to clean the fuel line/ injectors. The check engine light went away for 9 months. But it is back on again. Tried putting in fuel additive again but the light remains on.
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