I'm getting a weird code on my engine it's p1298 which is electric load detector circuit high input and I'm also getting 3 misfire codes but the car runs great what can I do to fix these.
View 10 RepliesI went to my local Autozone today to have a code read and get the freeze frame data. I got a code P0118, Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input. I called the dealer but they are out of stock on the sensor. Would it be a problem to use an after market sensor? I'm just concerned about the quality and accuracy of the sensor.
View 5 RepliesI have a problem with my sonata NF 2006 the check engine light turn on like 2 days ago and give me the p2128 code say Accelerator pedal Position Circuit - High Input something like that i cheek all the cable off the throttle body to the ecu and i don't see any cable broken how I can check the accelerator pedal sensor? I see in one page a texting the sensor whit a multi miter but was for santa fe and the cable don't have the same colors . I need the accelerator pedal cable diagram and i don't have it ....
View 2 RepliesEngine light is one for about a month and finally got an ODB II.
Today it reads the error code [b]P0118 which is [b]Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
The coolant sensor reads 45 C when the key is on "on" position at about 2:30 pm this afternoon and I start the engine about 2 mins the temp jumps to 68 C, are these some logical number?
Does it mean the bad temperature sensor and I need to replace it?
Check engine light is on, this is the code that came up when checked at OReillys, "P0113 Intake Air temperature sensor 1 Circuit high input". Earlier took it to repair shop, he did not give the code, some sensor needs to be changed (don't know if he came up with same code). He had erased the code but it came back on within minutes. Wanted to check if there is any cheaper way to fix this. This is a windstar van.
View 15 Replies33k Civic 2001 "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code
My Civic 2001 LX (non vtec 1.7) threw an error code today. It was, "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code. It was raining a lot today, and this is the first day that it did it. I have never had this problem before. When the error code came on the engine automatically lost power. I couldn't get the car over 3000 rpm. Then it stalled in an intersection. Now it won't start period. It only has 33k on the clock.
The timing belt was done about two months previous, but i haven't had one problem until today, when it was raining.
My Civic 2001 LX (non vtec 1.7) 33k threw an error code today. It was, "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code. It was raining a lot today, and this is the first day that it did it. I have never had this problem before. When the error code came on the engine automatically lost power. I couldn't get the car over 3000 rpm. Then it stalled in an intersection. Now it won't start period. It only has 33k on the clock.
The timing belt was done about two months previous, but i haven't had one problem until today, when it was raining. So much for a reliable honda.
So i got the UM tune done to my car then went and got my TT cams installed. After giving me car the 50 miles to adjust for the cams i get a CEL P0103 Mass or volume air flow circuit high input. Checked the connections around the maf and im noting seeing any broken vac lines or anything out of the ordinary.
Cleaned the maf and cleared the code but the CEL popped back up, got a new maf just because I like spending money on things i dont need and the CEL is still there, low speed or high speed it will pop on.
Is there anything I am missing that could be causing this problem or something i can try other then take to the place that did my cams?
2004 r32
123k miles on it
UM NA tune
carbonio CAI
TT cams
Test pipe and neuspeed cat back exhaust
My check engine light is on. I got the code pulled at Advance Auto Parts. It is P0107 - MAP Sensor Circuit Low Input. I wanted to test the MAP sensor to see if it is bad. I couldn't find anything online that was Santa Fe or even Hyundai specific as far as testing procedures go. I know you can test the power wire, the ground wire, and the signal wire, from what I could tell from other places I've looked. I got 5ish volts from the power wire and 12ish volts on the ground wire, which is what I understand they should be. I don't have a vacuum pump at the moment, but testing the signal wire with no vacuum I got about 0.02 volts. From what I've read online, it should be around 5 volts, but I wasn't sure if all MAP sensors work the same way. Whether I'm doing this correctly and whether they think the sensor is bad?
View 5 RepliesSo my mom recently bought a 2003 Elantra (75K miles, auto trans) and within a few days the CEL came on. She took it in to PepBoys and had them hook it to their scanner to get the codes out of it. The only code that came up was P0113 Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor high input. I've done a little research on the net but there is a lot of random info for this code out there. Is the IAT a separate sensor or is it combined in with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor(if this car even has a MAF) or combined in with the MAP sensor? I've read on the net that it could be any of these 3, I think it's combined into the MAP.
I've also read that this code could be caused by a bad IAT, bad O2 sensor, an exhaust leak, bad wiring/ground(I checked the wiring/grounds visually and everything seems ok) or many other things. If it's as simple as replacing one of the sensors I can do that myself, I just don't want to go randomly buying things and either it be the wrong part or have it be the right part but not fix the problem. The car runs great, even with the CEL on. Yesterday when she stopped by my house I disconnected the battery for a couple minutes and reconnected it, started the car & no CEL. She drove the car for about 125-150 miles before the light came back on.
CODE P0102 "Mass or Airflow circuit low input" That was the code and upon checking my records prior to storing it for the year. I installed a new IAC,MAF, Fuel Pump and lots of new hoses, PCV, Fuel injection regulator. The Vehicle has only 110K miles. Now here is the clincher, after doing just the fuel pump it ran perfect for at least 25 miles, perfect I say. When I shut if off I got the check engine light, and thus the code which led me to install the other stuff. Now after pondering the matter, seems that it acted in a similar way PRIOR to my doing anything but there was no code previously. Like maybe some strange electrical connection, or something.
View 1 RepliesThe MIL light came on and I noticed the shifting P-D or P-R was hard. Checked the Transmission Fluid and noticed it was low. Topped it up, but still MIL is on and shifting hard still. I bought a OBD2 Scanner and it returns P0707 "Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Low Input". Should I try clearing the DTC? It's a drag because it's my wife's car and she's driving mine.
View 1 Replies2004 Sport Trac V6. Been having hard shifting and P0715: Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit. Cleared the codes and still returns.
From my searches, readings and looking at the parts diagram. On the newer 5 speeds the sensor is the one on the inside of the tranny. This requires taking the entire tranny apart? Is there an external connector for the sensor that I can check or clean first? Replace this sensor. I know the older ones were mounted on top of the tranny. I think this one is mounted on the inside though.
I have a 2003 Santa Fe, V4, 2.4L.
So the other day, my CEL and I got it scanned: p0320, or "Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction."
It was accompanied with two symptoms:
1. The car will sometimes sputter on startup, and the tachometer will be zeroed out. I have to turn the car off and turn it back on, and it will start normally, albeit with a bit of a misfire on idle.
2. The car will sometimes die while at a stop. Just like the first symptom, if I turn the car off and turn it back on, it will work normally.
I looked on here, and it seemed like everyone solved a p0320 by replacing the Ignition Failure Sensor. So that's exactly what I did. But nothing changed; I still have the symptoms, and the CEL came back on and is still reading p0320.
What should be my next step? Could it be faulty wires that give power to the Ignition Failure Sensor?
I cleaned my k&n air filter on my 02 passat 1.8 turbo let it dry oiled it very lightly, and 50 miles later I get a check engine light on, pulled the code 16486 and it says Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Low Input. Cleared the code put a frame in until I can get it filter. Why that would throw me that code, k&n oil gumming up my sensor??
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 Honda civic LX 4 cyl. There is an oily residue in the coolant reservoir an on the fill tube but when the radiator is opened the coolant is clean. The car is using oil but not running rough or hot. There is no tailpipe smoke or evidence of leakage. I am planning to do a compression check and look at the plugs.
View 5 RepliesSo my Honda Civic has been flashing my check engine light, which is telling my my cylinders are misfiring. I checked the ignition coils by removing them while the car was running and cylinder 2 and 3 I can remove and it doesn't change how the car runs. I put a new ignition coil In and that doesn't work so it isn't the ignition coils, what it could be?
View 8 RepliesRecently, my 2003 manual honda civic accelerates very slowly, even the engine speed goes up to 4000 rpm. Usually it takes up to 1 minute to reach 60mph on high way. Is the clutch getting bad?
View 5 RepliesHonda Civic, 2003, around 180k miles. Code P1457 is showing, no drive ability problems. Everything seems to point to the evap canister valve as a common problem. I crawl under next weekend and start replacing parts...
View 5 RepliesMy car is a 1998 Honda Civic DX hatchback 5 speed manual. About 180,000+ miles. For a while now the car seems to have a problem with power under load. If I am on an incline the engine will start making a metallic gurgling noise as I push on the gas. It increases as I give it more gas, or the hill gets steeper; at which point the car usually begins to slow down depending on my speed. It is most noticeable when I shift into a higher gear and then my speed drops into the range where I could downshift. It also happens often however at 60 mph+. On inclines at that speed, the car will gradually lose speed down into the 50's if the hill is long enough/steep enough even with the gas pedal floored. I'll need to shift into fourth to keep at 50 mph until I'm over the hill.
I've been told by a few friends/mechanics that it may be the catalytic convertor. Hard to test it or just weld on a new one though since the cat is integrated into the manifold, etc. So I took it to a trusted mechanic who did a bunch of work. He said it was only firing on three cylinders instead of four due to carbon tracking, but wasn't concerned with the cat. He did a tune-up and replaced the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, valve cover and gasket (leaking), air filter and fuel filter, and cleaned the throttle body. Also replaced both rear strut assemblies.
Until now there had been NO check engine light signaling a problem. I got the car back and it felt good at first, but still seemed to make the noise albeit quieter. The power was better, but only for maybe a couple days. The engine again started making the noise more often and losing power in the same ways. Also, the check engine light came on a few days later. Blinking the first time, then it would come on for a couple of days, then off for a couple, etc. Now it has come on and stayed on constantly for a couple of weeks. I had the engine codes read and got three codes:
P1456- the usual emission control system leak... fuel cap possibility, etc. I'm guessing it isn't this for the most part...
P0141- "secondary HO2s12 (Heated oxygen sensor- bank 1, sensor 2) circuit heater malfunction.
and the strangest of all since I'd expect it to be fixed...
P0301- "cylinder number 1 misfire detected" ...
So it could be something else with the cylinders going on, O2 sensor having to do with cat. stuff, etc.? I also will be due for a timing belt change soon I believe, but that would not be causing any of this I don't think. I'll be bringing it back to the mechanic to have a look again, but haven't had the time yet.
My cel is once again starring me in the face ... P0018 is the code I got followed by "engine coolant - high input". Where I can buy a book/chart that explains these codes. I'm assuming it is some sort of sensor gone bad but not sure exactly.
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