Engines :: 1984 Pontiac Randomly Loses Power And Dies
Jun 6, 2011
Here's a little about the car before I start about the problem because my car is very custom. It is a 84 pontiac trans am with 305 H.O. code G engine V8. It was completely redone about three years ago and runs great. We did delete most of the computer control stuff and emissions. We now have a vacuum controlled distributor instead of the original computer controlled one. There is no engine light to check now and here's why. We have converted the car into K.I.T.T. from Knight Rider, so the entire gauges on the dash have been turned into digital gauges including the speedometer.
The new gauges run off of the same power that the old ones did. But we have added a separate switch to turn just the dash on for car shows so we don't have to turn the key on. it goes to the fuse for the computer/ gauges and a few other little things. We also have two lcd screens installed and a computer.
Now for my problem. The car still runs great no issues with how it runs or sounds engine wise. It doesn't matter if it is cold,hot, wet, or dry. I can go down the road and all of the sudden all the power to the dash will flicker off and on. I usually lose my speedometer then and don't know how fast I'm going. It will not power up fully unless the car is started normal. The car has to have the gas pumped a few times before starting normal. No biggie. Now, the entire dash will flicker and sometimes when it goes out in the middle of driving, the car just dies. About a week ago everything lost power. No headlights, flashers, interior lights or power to start the car. After a few minutes, one by one the things starting to work.
Interior lights first, then headlights and five minutes later the dash lights come back and the ignition has power again.Went to town the other day and drove for an hour and no issues at all. Today, the lights flashed on the dash, get home, shut the car, turn it back on and fine. Waited a while and had the door open. Shut the car off and it lost power to the ignition. Interior lights were on but no power when you turned the key. The radio would flicker on/off real quick, but no power to the dash or to start the car. Turn the key to acc mode and the radio works but again no power in the on position to start the car or turn on the dash.Now, we can turn on the extra switch to power the dash and it will come on but not when I turn the key.About ten minutes later of just sitting and the car was back to normal. Turn the key and power was back and started right up.
Here's what I've done. Battery and alternator checked out fine, checked all ground cables to firewall, starter, etc, looked for lose wires or melted wires, took distributor cap off and check that area, clean battery cables wires, looked for any corroded or dirty wires, made sure all wires were tight. I even went under the dash and put in a new ignition switch ( I don't ever want to do that again. That was a pain in the neck and I really mean in the neck) Still the same issue. It seems like something is getting hot and causing power to be shut off to the ignition and keeping power from getting to the ignition/dash until it cools off. I hate these kind of issues because it is so hard to track down.
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My car (Nissan 1998) runs normally for miles. Then sometimes it just starts lurching while in motion when the gas is depressed and looses speed, as if not getting fuel. Previous times it dies after this. The last time I was on the highway going 70 and I pulled over before it lost power and died completely. Just had new brakes installed, new distributor, all new belts, and an oil leak fixed by a mechanic.
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My '78 245 drives just fine around the (flat) city but when I try to take it to the mountains it seems to struggle. It makes it fine up the hills for the first 30 minutes or so but eventually it starts to chug and will lose power and die. If I give it 10 minutes to rest it will start up just fine and drive fine for a while but if I continue to go uphill it will die again. It doesn't overheat too much, it just seems like it's not getting enough of something? And it doesn't seem like it's a fuel pump because i've replaced those before and it seems different this time. After returning home from the mountains, it's like nothing happened and it drives fine?
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I had been driving the car here and there all day, and in the afternoon I swung by my mom's house to pick her up. When she got in the car (I had just been idling while waiting), I went to make a U-turn and the car outright died. I started it right back up and was able to drive to the end of the block before it lost power. It didn't die this time -- the engine was still on -- but all my electrical components went out -- radio, dashboard lights, AC -- and I couldn't get it to go more than 20 mph. That was flooring it. It wasn't giving me a high-pitched whine, just a low hum like it was trying really hard to go but couldn't. I turned it around and barely made it back up the hill to my mom's to park it. It just had no get-up-and-go. An hour or so later my dad came home and checked it out and of course it was fine. Started right up, drove fine.
This has happened twice since, both times I was driving on the freeway when I felt the loss of get-up-and-go and saw the electrical components go out. These times it only lasted maybe 10 seconds, after which it just came back to life in the middle of driving and drove fine the rest of the day.
It makes me think there must be some sort of loose connection somewhere? I'm frustrated by the issue because it's not repeatable. So when I took it to my mechanic, they said they couldn't find anything wrong. They hooked it up to a code reader and nothing came up, and they drove it around and around and it was fine. The idea that it could maybe strand me on the side of the road (I drive my kids around all day) scares me, so I've swapped cars with my husband for the time being. But I want my Murano back!
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1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, 183000 miles. Car loses all power, randomly. Then starts up in about 3 seconds.
The following repairs have been done: crank sensor, cam sensor, idle control valve, ignition switch, all ground wires checked. There are no computer codes generated. This has been going on for over a year. Has been checked by dealer and three other mechanics.
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The shop told me the codes they got from the check engine were all communication codes (??). The only thing know about the two days the car broke down 3 weeks apart is I filled up the tank with gas on those days (but that doesnt seem like it would matter).
After sitting for an hour waiting for the tow truck. The car started up and he was able to drive it off the truck with no issue. I am totally lost here.
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We have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
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I have a 1984 XJ6 and while driving the RPM dial will go wild and then the car dies. It starts up again no problem. There doesn't seem to be any pattern to this. The car has a new transmission and I just replaced the starter... What could be causing the problem?
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Vibe that was new to me in 2011. Pushing 180k+ miles. It was subject to the airbag recall last summer and has been repaired by the GM guys. But last fall I was driving at around 70mph with the cruise on and came up to a speed change so I tapped the brakes to end the cruise and EVERYTHING went dark in the car- radio, dashboard, a/c, the electrical charging plug- EVERYTHING for about 5-7 seconds. Then everything came back on and I continued as normal. My mechanic was dumbfounded. Figured one time freak thing so no worries.
No issues since until this morning. On the drive to work I had the high beams on as it was 5:15 in the morning on a state highway in the country. Came up on a red light so flipped high beams off. EVERYTHING goes dark for 5-7 seconds, comes back on, and I continue as normal. Obviously I'm getting a little concerned at the randomness, not to mention that losing power at 70mph is a little disconcerting. Mechanic is dumbfounded but willing to tear up the dash and steering column and see if he can't recreate the issue.
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2003 6.0. Really, really hard or no start in winter. Started it up today and it misses until warmed up. That sounds like injectors.
The next issue is it stalls randomly they say. I tested FICM with a volt meter and it's constantly just a hair above 48 volts. Key on, cranking, running, doesn't matter. It's a 7 screw FICM in an 03 so I'm guessing it's been replaced. It also has 3 zip ties around the back half of the FICM. I'm not sure if it's holding the FICM in place, or holding a connector on the back.
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No CEL and oil pressure gauge on dash moved up to the middle while cranking. I'll put the scanner on it next time I'm there and watch live data during the no start condition. What all to monitor while cranking or where to look in case this isn't an unheard of 6.0 issue.
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Ok, so my 2002 f250 died on me last Tuesday out of the blue, pulled it home and found fuse 23 I think ECU power was blown. I removed my Hydra, and put a new fuse in it and all seemed well, then Friday evening on my way to dinner was driving along and truck shuts off like someone turned the key off. I replace the Crank sensor, even though I had put a new one in after the first time it died, which was last Tuesday, still would not start.
Pulled it home, went out Saturday morning to look at it and hit the key and it fired right off. At this point I don't really know where to look, I wiggled every wire I could find while it was running Saturday and no change, but it does seem to have a miss in it while it is idling...... I am not sure where to start looking....
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I have had a lot of issues with this car the past year. Not sure where to even start.. it appears to be leaking directly under the oil reservoir, and also near the right tire on the passenger side. Not leaking on the other side at all. The fluid appears to be very dark. Brake fluid is fine, coolant level is fine, power steering seems to have gone down as well as oil fluid. The air system in the car does not work. The fluid just looks to be pretty dark, and sometimes a burning smell after running again. Is it just an oil leak?
Pontiac grand am 2000 v6
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I am at a loss on what this could be. For the past 8 - 9 months my truck will randomly miss and if I am going slow enough it will cause the engine to quit but only when it is raining. I sometimes get a service light when it happens but as soon as i turn the key off and back on it goes away. My truck runs perfect otherwise and even when it rains except when it randomly does what I just explained.
This started when I replaced my passenger side valve cover gasket and I also took out my "brain box" (don't remember what it's called) and put it back in (didn't replace it). I did have the up-pipe replaced as well around the same time and put in EGT, boost and trans temp gauges. That's about the only things engine compartment wise that's been done.
I did just take it to a shop to put on a scanner and after his testing it did spit out 1 code. It was the cam position sensor. Can this sensor cause what I have explained? Like I said, this only happens when it rains. Doesn't matter if it's poring or barely sprinkling.
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I have a 2001 f250 super duty extended cab with the v10. Over the past week it has been running fine and it will all of a sudden lose power and dies. I've been able to start it back up once right away and a few times it started up after a few hours of messing with it.
So, after the truck dies it will crank and crank but will not start. We have checked fuel pressure and nothing. Then we applied direct current to the fuel pump and it turns on. Then we applied direct current to the fuel pump slot in the fuse box and got a fuel pressure reading of 40 psi. But when we crank we have no pressure.
When we apply direct current to the fuel pump slot in the fuse box the truck will only crank and not start.
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Bought my DTS with 46,000 miles, one year ago. I have driven 31,000 miles since. Once in a while, maybe once a month, at 65 or 70 mph it will just hiccup once and keep going. Just one quick miss. About 6 or 8 times in a year it has just died going 30mph or pulling into a driveway or up to stop sign. It does not sputter or miss, simply just dies instantly. So far it has always started right back up. The only code it has ever shown, was mass air flow sensor twice. It looks ok and I did clean it.
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My son's 1991 Honda Accord was running real rough. The temperature gauge did not budge from cold. I changed out the thermostat. When I tried to start it it started great then coughed and shuddered and then died. It keeps starting and then dying. I took off the IAC and flushed it with mass air flow cleaner. The screen over one of the ports was all crudded up. It cleaned up OK. However then I put it back it improved for a minute and then died again. I have checked for vacuum leaks but found none.
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I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM for about 4 days now the car has been running hot. When it gets too hot the car dies and I have to jump the battery. Could this be more then a simple thermostat problem?
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As the title states I own a '96 Grand Prix GTP with the 3.4L engine. I had been having a problem with my coolant leaking so I took it in to a shop I usually trust, they pressurized the system and found my water pump was leaking. Not surprising, I had suspected it was having issues. So they replaced it and all was good for about a day or two. I live about 5 - 10 minutes from work and as soon as I drove it longer than that, it started overheating at random intervals. I took it back in and they told me it was probably my head gasket but they couldn't see any visible evidence of it going bad so they said it must be in the early stages.
I was not satisfied, I hadn't had any problem until after the water pump was replaced and I've never had any major engine issues. I finally managed to nail down a sort of pattern to the overheating. It only starts to overheat once it has been running for awhile, whenever it does overheat neither of my radiator fans turn on, turning to the right while driving cools it down, turning it to the left while driving allows it to overheat again, revving the engine when it overheats ALWAYS cools it back down at least for awhile. The other strange thing is that it will overheat for awhile and then stop and go back to normal operation, my fans will work again, and the temperature never climbs past 210. Then at another random interval, it will start overheating again.
It doesn't sound like a head gasket going bad to me but then I've never had one go out on me. It sounds more like I have a coolant flow problem (maybe the new water pump is faulty?) because every time I rev it, it cools down immediately. Or maybe I have a faulty sensor/thermostat/computer module since my fans never run when it overheats and it never overheats when my fans actually turn on? If it's a head gasket I'll deal with it but at this point I am a little skeptical.
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My car will start up but wont idle when it idle it starts to die and gas just overflows thee carb and the motor slowly dies. Its a 1966 pontiac starchief with a rochester carb and 421....
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