Electrical-wiring - Ranger :: 1999 XLT Electrical Power Lost When Turn Key To Start Position
Aug 18, 2011
My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
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I have a 70 Ford f250 with a messed up wiring harness. Truck will run only in start position. which wires are wrong.
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2002 f250 v10 4x4. Truck will loose all power...
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1965 F100 300cid electrical drain...
I am attaching a link to my thread in the 1960's truck forum : [URL] .....
With my limited skill level, I have given up! It could very likely be something I am doing wrong with the diagnoses/troubleshooting.
Basically, When I turn the key to start the truck, I get a clicking solenoid at best and what appears to be a total loss of power. Not even the dome light will come on. The starter is new as is the solenoid.
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This evening I drove our Subaru Legacy Wagon (1999) about 3 miles or so to the gym. When I pulled into the lot, I noticed my radio (tuned to NPR, no less) had gone off. Curious! A few seconds later, dashboard lights come on (ABS, maybe others). After that, engine goes quiet, car is dead -- turning the key does nothing at all, and the car is completely without power. Only the dome light works, and barely. I get a jump, and eventually the car starts back up --- but it took a while, and several tries, before I could get the engine going.
On the way home, I kept a careful eye on the RPMs -- when I was close, I noticed the ABS light pop back on, and the RPM needle go down to zero. I tried my best to keep the RPMs up by staying in first, and managed to park. Of course, the car was unresponsive when I immediately tried to restart it. Some quick internet searches suggest alternator, bad connections to the battery, and some other ideas. We've never had this problem before. The twist is that we're literally on the brink of selling this car -- we've got one more than we need. Thus, we'd be pretty bummed if we had to put much, if any, cash into the car just so we can get rid of it days later.
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I bought a great 76' SuperCab with a 390 4 barrel Wednesday (the 30th) and while driving around the neighborhood this evening the truck just lost all power and came to a stop. No lights, no engine, nothing and I cruised to an easy stop (fortunately at the end of my own block). I thought I smelled a bit of electrical burn for a moment after I came to a stop but could not track it down before the smell disappeared.
Some early symptoms - on drive home from purchase, the turn signal light function was in and out. The starter was also turning slowly and sounded tired/weak. The ignition switch was a bit loose and previous owner said you had to make sure the key was not all the way to the right or accessories would not work.
Some early checks/fixes- replaced battery and battery cables and checked grounds. Starter began turning stronger and turn signal lights were back. Thought I had it going well.
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'03 E250 connector C3136 located by the left lower B Pillar---have lost power to the Brown wire which seems to be designated as Circuit 124.
Which fuse controls that circuit? I have a factory EVTM but I can't find what fuse to check. And here I though I knew something?!
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here its is i have a 1986 ford f350 6.9 aftermarket turbo set up i was driving it then i went over rail road tracks lost all power to fuse box no headlights no interior lights no ignition power batteries are good so now when i turn key nothing lights up it just killed my whole truck....
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So I'm writing this for my friend but he has a 1978 F-150 with a 1969 390 in it. He recently had a problem where his starter got stuck and it lit the wires connected to the solenoid up in flames. Well anyways we replaced all the wires that were attached to the solenoid and replaced the solenoid and the starter also. But after wiring it up it has no power whatsoever. The battery is also brand new and the fuse links are fine. What is causing this?
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I'm working on a 289 from a 65 Fairlane; When I attempt to start the engine it will turn over however, it will not start. I can switch it on and jump it with a screw driver and it starts right up. It started once with the key so I don't think it's the wiring. I don't want to start buying items chasing the problem when I don't know the answer. I have a new battery.
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I have a 97 Ranger, v6 4.0L, 2wd, 5spd. It has been my daily driver since 1999. I was driving to work today and when I pulled into the parking spot, I turned the truck off, and I thought it was odd that the locks didn't pop up when I shut the truck off.
I then realized that I had completely lost all electrical power. Tried to turn the truck on and nothing. No click. No dome light, no horn, no nothing.
My battery reads 12.5 volts and the connections are all clean on the battery. I checked all the fuses and they are all good. What else should I check? This may be the first time this truck has ever stranded me before.
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The problem started with me leaving the parking lights on, battery was discharged overnight; jump started it, drove it around to charge the battery, ran fine for two days. Now when I switch Ignition Switch to start I hear a sort of mechanical "clack" and I lose all electrical power, nothing, nada. Removed and took the battery to check it and charge it, tested good and is now fully charged.
Reinstalled battery, same symptom, a "clack" when I try to start it, then dead, all electrical power disappears unless I rock the steering wheel up and down, rock the shifter through the gears, etc. It's been raining in Florida daily, I wonder if water is to blame. Start Lock Relay?? Ignition Switch??
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I just bought a 99 Explorer v8 2wd to replace my aging aerostar and to tow my boat. I already knew it had this problem and a destroyed rear diff when I bought it, I figured this would be the easiest problem with just a new switch. I was wrong.
pulled the fuze
pulled the headlight switch
pulled the relays at: power dist. box, keyless entery/alarm?, the box under the dash
disconnected the harness from the GEM behind the dash and from the keyless entery/alarm
Lights only go out when I pull the park lamp relay. I know what you may be thinking. But no. Its still not gonna be that easy. The relay is not bad or being activated. Its just acting as a jumper from pin 4 to 3. So out comes the test light.
At the park lamp relay (without the relay in)on the relay module I get power at 1, 5, and 4. When I ground 2 with the test light, the headlight relay kickes on. Which seems normal to me by my assumption of how the system works. Which is that these relays are only for the RAP module to flash the lights by grounding the 2 pin. Anyway... I think I've narrowed it down.
According to the wiring diagrams, the 4 pin should only get power from the headlight switch and the GEM from a white/black stripe wire. With the relay in (only to jump the power)I have unplugged both the headlight switch and GEM, and the lights stay on and there is power at 4. I figured the white/black wire may have a short to 12v and I would just bypass it. Then today I can disconnect the battery, then reconnect it and the lights will stay off. Keep in mind all other relays are out and everything is unplugged. If I plug the headlight switch back in, cycle the switch, the lights will go on and off correctly, but will eventually stay on. Even after removing the head light switch.
Does the white/black wire go to anything other than the switch, GEM, or relay. It doesn't say so in the diagram but I can't figure out why its getting power intermittently. Still thinking it could be a short I did a wiggle test on the dash harness to try to get them to come on if off or off if on. Nothing.
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2001 F-350 diesel. Out of nowhere, I start the truck and there's no turn signals. Fuse is blown so I replace it. It immediately blows. Tail lights work. No turn signal, brake lights, or hazards. I haven't hooked up a trailer or done anything abnormal recently. Only the #1 fuse (20Amp) is blown. Pulled bulbs and they work fine. Inspected wiring under and near lights. NOTHING! Any way to localize a short?
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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1999 - F250 7.3L Crew/Longbed manual locks/windows ...
2x New Batteries a few days ago, same symptoms as old batteries ...
Sitting overnight loses .1 volt due to cooler temps in am measurement:
9pm 12.92v
7am 12.83v
11am 12.93v*
*won't start
The amp draw measured at 9pm and 11am is essentially zero (reading .06 or less, usually 0.00) on both cables exiting the passenger side battery. This is sitting for an hour plus with the hood courtesy bulb removed. (although it drops to near zero within a few minutes of the domes going off). Using a clamp around ammeter.
The alternator is charging (14+v reading while driving). When trickle charged overnight the truck starts fine. Plugging in the block heater makes no difference in starting (or not). 45 F overnight. When it doesn't start:
-double keying the glow plug light comes on
-tach needle bounces on crank
-voltage of 12.8 drops to 11.2 on glow plugs, then 10, then 7 while cranking
-sounds like it's almost going to catch, then bogs hard and the voltage really drops
Again, it starts fine when charged and starts after short trips (by virtue of my wife having made it home). Haven't tried to jump start as I don't have anything handy that is boss enough to jump one of these. Typical use during failure:
Charging with charger
Start
30 min to store
3 stores, start 3 times
30 min to home
Sit overnight
Won't start
This morning I checked that the battery terminals and battery clamps all had the exact same voltage. There are occasionally amps between the batteries (.37 to .08) measured on each end of the cable going over the radiator.
So, if there is no drain and the block heater doesn't work, but it starts fine if it hasn't been driven/sitting, what is next to check?
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2000 XLT F150 4.6 - New starter & solenoid(s), battery cable & fuse links good.
When i turn the key, I hear one single click and the power cuts out entirely. I can't attempt a second start or turn on the lights or have any power going through the truck until I disconnect the battery for about 10 seconds then reconnect. Electrical becomes live again, then when the ignition is turned the electrical cuts out again. I do hear a single cluck at the starter (probably attempting to engage when it cuts out) and a clunk right at the inside fuse box (drivers side).
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SO, my Buick has given the code for bad TPS, and it was replaced a little over a year ago...and now after the same symptoms, replaced again.. However, this time, right after replacing, it gave the code again, and still stalls out /doesn't want to stay running especially when put in gear. My regular mechanic also recently just put on a new catalytic converter and a new fuel pump and fuel filter. I'm at a loss, and desperately need my car back.
A little back history...about 3 years ago a 'friend' was to work on my car to install the thermostat and power washed the engine...which shortly after started having all kinds of electrical issues. Right after that, my mechanic had to install a coil, spark plugs, new ignition panel and the 1st tps.
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I have a 1996 E350 7.3 pstd and it hasn't started since April... Van ran great but had bad bearings in the steering column. I changed out the bearings around the steering stem and it hasn't started since but turns over just fine. The main symptom is the dash loses power when key is rotating from the last run position to the spring back crank position. Basically halfway between run and start the the dash drops power. You can see the problem very well in this video I'm attaching.
I filmed this moths ago so the dash is in disarray and I'm using a screw driver to activate the ignition switch. The screw driver bypasses the key cylinder which I thought was the problem but it's not. Parts I've replaced include new glow plug relay, new ignition switch, alternator rebuilt, 2 brand new batteries, new cps sensor, and also a new pcm. All fuses and relays have been checked and most have been tested, pcm gets power in run position as well. Gotta get this thing figured out it's been sitting for 6 months
Watch the video : [URL] ....
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I have a 1997 F250 that I am fixing up. The issue is this... The dash lights now flicker off when I place the transmission in Drive position. I can slightly move the slack in the gear selector and the lights come back on. When the transmission is in Park, the dash lights work correctly. Not sure why there is some type of switch to control the dash lights buried within the steering column?
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My 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.
I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.
So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.
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