Electrical-wiring - Kia - Sedona :: 2006 Periodically Won't Start
Feb 22, 2011
I have a 2006 Kia Sedona with about 85k on it. About 2 months ago it began not starting (no engine turn over whatsoever). I took it to the dealer and they could not get the problem to repeat. When I pressed the service manager he told me to "bang on the fuse box" while trying to start it. Oddly, that seems to work. Something about the power relay (I might have the terminology wrong here). Last week my (1 year old) battery died. Another Kia dealership also found nothing wrong with the van but also mentioned the power relay as a possible cause of the period non-starting but didn't think that could damage the battery. Car is yet again, not starting sometimes. Banging on the fuse box as per the first service manager still works but this is not a permanent solution. Don't want to spring for a new power relay (??) since they can't definitively diagnose that.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
Our Honda Odyssey will have an occasional delayed start where you turn the key but no sound occurs. All the lights come on like normal and the automatic doors can all close and open without any issues. Originally we didn't know that we could eventually get the car to start by turning and holding the key in the start position. It happens every couple days to couple weeks and without holding the key in the on position it will be anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 days before the car will start normally again. We've spent about $1,000 at the Honda dealer to have the battery, battery cables, starter, and starter relay replaced but we're still having the problem.
View 2 Replies
My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
View 3 Replies
I just bought a hard to start 1990 F250. Per the board, just replaced all 8 glow plugs with Motorcraft. Still wouldn't start (it turns over but will only start if you use either). I attempted to install a new BWD brand (Borg Warner I believe) glow plug connector relay today...I removed the old no problem, but am unsure what wires to plug where....the only connection that I'm sure about is the blue wire that works the WTS feature...it plugs in easily but I don't know if there are other connections that need to be made or not? All the wires run from the posts and into the bottom of the unit.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2006 Kia Sedona which has done 57000 miles. For the last 2 weeks I have been having starting problem. When I turn the key there is no 'starting sound', the lights, radio and the AC start working but the engine does not start up at all. After several attempts and after keeping the key in 'ignition on' position the engine fires up and starts running.
It has been happening intermittently and fortunately for me it happened at the dealer and they are saying it is a short circuit in starter motor and the entire starter has to be replaced. It is covered by the warranty but I want to know if thats what is wrong. A friend of mine who had similar problems was saying that he had to replace starter 3-4 times before they discovered that a wire was defective which was not sending enough amps to start the engine. What to do.
View 3 Replies
I don't know if this goes here but I ha a ford f350 king ranch 2006 I got it 5 months ago the fog lights never did work. One of them was burnt out.
I replaced them both today and checked the fuse and they do not come on. I checked the fuse under the dash kick box. What else could be going on here hat I can look into?
View 14 Replies
I'm working on a 289 from a 65 Fairlane; When I attempt to start the engine it will turn over however, it will not start. I can switch it on and jump it with a screw driver and it starts right up. It started once with the key so I don't think it's the wiring. I don't want to start buying items chasing the problem when I don't know the answer. I have a new battery.
View 2 Replies
I have a 06 f350. Out of the blue my wipers will not shut off without pulling the 30 amp fuse in engine compartment . Even with ignition off.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2006 F350 Diesel. Had one of my employees go out to start the truck yesterday and when I went out I had no electrical power to most of the accessories (gauges, warning lights, power windows, radio, interior lights, turbo charger). It also seems to have no power - could barely make it go up the slight incline into my garage. I have checked all the fuses - they seem fine. Although put a tester on the interior fuse box and I don't have any power to the fuses that run these accessories.
View 10 Replies
We have a broke (aren't they all?) college kid living with our family who's parents have basically signed off on him. He has this car and so far it has been reliable. He was driving on the freeway last week and he said it began to smoke, so he hot to the side and turned it off. He then had it towed to a neighboring street off the freeway and came for my advice. Unfortunately he knows little about cars in general, so he couldn't tell me if the smoke was steam or how it smelled or anything. I told him I should go back with him and check the oil before he attempted to restart it, I am guilty of blowing up my own transmission in college bc I thought my dad was checking the oil and he thought I was checking the oil...well, no one was...anyway, I got him to call his insurance and we found out he had coverage, so instead he got it towed here. I checked the oil after it got here, there was little oil in it, but, it would also not start. It would not even attempt to turn over. Putting it into accessories did nothing.
My husband then got involved and cleaned off the battery connections and then we attempted to jump it. After about an hour, we gave up, and took the battery in, and they said it was the original battery so we replaced it out of our pocket. Put that in the car and now we only get a dash light of a car with a key that is red and flashes. No lights, no radio, no anything else but an annoying red flashing light. Turns out he has an intelikey system. The dealership over the phone said they have to reprogram the key fob and car so they need both to do so. That's an initial charge of $175 and another call to the insurance for towing...which I'll have to pay. But, if I do that and that doesn't cure all that ails it and it doesn't start...then what? Is there anything else we can try first or does that intelikey hold the access to everything on the car? My husband has some mechanical skills but not a lot of time to search and troubleshoot and hasn't worked on a nissan before, his job is very demanding right now, but given direction can do a lot himself.
View 2 Replies
1996 Ford F150 5.0 ... New battery, new alternator, new starter, new coil, dis cap good and rotor is good. New plugs and wires. Ignition mod tested good.
Drove a mile from my house and lost power to my engine. Lights and radio work. Just sits there and cranks and cranks. I'm not getting spark from the coil. Don't know a lot about engines.
View 6 Replies
I have a 70 Ford f250 with a messed up wiring harness. Truck will run only in start position. which wires are wrong.
View 7 Replies
I must be missing something here. Where is the flasher for the turn signals? It isn't the two relays behind the radio is it?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2006 f150. Both front turn signals do not work. I replaced bulbs still nothing. There back signals do work. They blink really fast.
View 4 Replies
I am trying to find out if Ford's cruise control has gotten crappy, or if mine has problems in my '06 F250. When I set the cruise, it goes about 3 MPH above what I set it at, then drops to about 3 MPH below, then it eventually stays where I set it. That is until I come to the top of an overpass or other small grade, then it is back to about 3 MPH over again as I reach the top and level out, then going back to where I set it.
The cruise control in my previous Ford trucks (83 & 91), as well as my 82 Mustang, 85 Lincoln, wife's 97 Toyota and the 2013 Chevy rental I just had, works fine. Where you set it is where it stays. Of course going up or down a steep grade, they all are going to lose or gain speed.
Anyway, I have taken the truck to the dealer twice for the cruise control. The first time is when I got the truck in '08. They replaced something else non-related, and said that would fix the cruise. It did work marginally, as the fluctuation was +-4 MPH before. I just took it in again before it goes off warranty, and they said the cruise is operating normally. So, there's my story. Is this normal, or is something wrong?
View 1 Replies
So heres the deal 1989 civic dx hatchback 106k on the odometer automatic 1.5l d15b2 engine . It's been having delayed starts taking 3 to 6 cranks before firing up then running fine, suddenly it dawned on me maybe it was the distributor , so I swapped it with a spare I had because sure enough the old one had red death red dust in the cap. Cleaned the contacts set the timing reassembled, some wires broke on the back of the wiring harness to the distro. Rewired them, the car kept getting worse I jumped it and took it to my friend a vw mechanic it drove 49 miles there fine after the jump, new plugs new wires new fuel filter we did the wire job set the timing checked the timing belt got the battery tested and the alternators new and did a oil change also did a coolant flush a few weeks ago.
It started right up drove it back to Chicago , in the morning I was getting off the highway it stopped running no noises I pulled over 8 cranks later it started parked it 3 blocks away, went to test drive it when I stopped at a light it shut off cramming it and hitting the gas pedal got it to start drove it a block down it shut off at a stop sign and I parked it. What it is I'm throwing code 8 which is a top dead sensor which I think is in the distro which I replaced a month ago. Fuel pump sounds like its priming but you have to gas it and crank it to start it which is odd for a automatic , it is girk injected is this tds sensor going to do that by itself? Or could it be a ignition module? ( what I read online) starter? Main relay , fuel pump switch?
View 6 Replies
1999 - F250 7.3L Crew/Longbed manual locks/windows ...
2x New Batteries a few days ago, same symptoms as old batteries ...
Sitting overnight loses .1 volt due to cooler temps in am measurement:
9pm 12.92v
7am 12.83v
11am 12.93v*
*won't start
The amp draw measured at 9pm and 11am is essentially zero (reading .06 or less, usually 0.00) on both cables exiting the passenger side battery. This is sitting for an hour plus with the hood courtesy bulb removed. (although it drops to near zero within a few minutes of the domes going off). Using a clamp around ammeter.
The alternator is charging (14+v reading while driving). When trickle charged overnight the truck starts fine. Plugging in the block heater makes no difference in starting (or not). 45 F overnight. When it doesn't start:
-double keying the glow plug light comes on
-tach needle bounces on crank
-voltage of 12.8 drops to 11.2 on glow plugs, then 10, then 7 while cranking
-sounds like it's almost going to catch, then bogs hard and the voltage really drops
Again, it starts fine when charged and starts after short trips (by virtue of my wife having made it home). Haven't tried to jump start as I don't have anything handy that is boss enough to jump one of these. Typical use during failure:
Charging with charger
Start
30 min to store
3 stores, start 3 times
30 min to home
Sit overnight
Won't start
This morning I checked that the battery terminals and battery clamps all had the exact same voltage. There are occasionally amps between the batteries (.37 to .08) measured on each end of the cable going over the radiator.
So, if there is no drain and the block heater doesn't work, but it starts fine if it hasn't been driven/sitting, what is next to check?
View 5 Replies
I have a 1994 Ford Explorer XLT. It just died the other night. I have dim dome light, nothing else. I had the battery and alternator tested, both are ok. I get an occasional click when trying to start it. I also get an occasional beeping, the key in the ignition sound. I've checked the fuses, and can't find a broken one.
View 3 Replies
Today my wife came home and said CEL was on, so I connected a bluetooth OBD2 reader (like I have done before) and read the codes, a P144a, which has something to do with the EVP. So, I shut the key off and proceeded to take the hose off of the EVP and unhook the wiring connector and then start the car to see if there was a vacuum leak through the valve. Well, when I went to start the car, it would not start. The Securilock icon was flashing on the dash and the car would only click, it would not turn over. I tried our spare key and got the same results.
I have tried unhooking the battery for 30 minutes but that has not made a difference either. Now, the key fob won't work at all, the door power locks won't work, the windows don't work, the radio, lights, heat and A/C won't work, and the dome lights won't come on. Whenever the battery is connected, I can hear a fast clicking sound coming from the area beneath and behind the radio and the front marker lights are on very very dim. The battery tests out at 12 volts. What in the world did I do and how can I fix it?
I should also note that I cannot get my OBD2 reader to connect to the system anymore. Also, after trying to leave the battery unhooked for 30 minutes again, the dome lights started working and the power locks would lock the door, but within about 3 seconds, the doors would automatically unlock. After turning the key to the start position, I again lost the dome lights and power locks.
View 6 Replies
I bought a 1952 F1 that is mounted on a 1978 E350 chassis.( 351W )
It has all the 78 wiring installed. When cranking engine, it will not start, unless you release key to run position. You have to get engine turning over, and then quickly release key to start. Checked back of switch, not losing voltage at ignition post while cranking...
View 5 Replies
My 85 f150 5L is parked to far in into my alley.. the last time i saw my keys i moved it up to water the plants that it was tucked almost on top of.
ive been looking for the keys for 2 months.. the truck isnt being driven at all but i think my neighbors are getting mad at it being out so far.
I can get in the engine bay, and i have jumped the starter on our big trucks at work before.. but what wires do i have to join to put the ignition into the run position?
View 9 Replies
