Electrical-wiring - Hyundai - Fluids - Entourage :: 2007 - Washer Fluid Not Working
Feb 24, 2011
I just bought an 07 Hyundai Entourage (Kia Sedona clone) a little over a month ago. We had our first storm last week and my wife tried to use the washer fluid on the rear and it didn't work (it was below freezing). I looked at it and the front didn't work either (no noise from pump motor either). So I found out it has a pump for the front and one for the rear but they are on the same fuse. Checked the fuse and it was blown.
I thought maybe it was due to the fluid in the car freezing (no anti freeze fluid probably). Put the new fuse in, tried the front for about 5 seconds and it worked. Tried the rear for 5, it worked. Tried the front again, nothing. Tried the rear again nothing. Pulled the fuse again accept it wasn't blown. Put a couple of different fuses in. Nothing. I did this while it was above freezing...? could both pumps have burnt up at the same time? Is there any other fusible link between the motor and switch?
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I have the service manual for my Entourage. I want to change the ATF. It says to disconnect the hose to the oil cooler and then to run the car in neutral to drain the fluid (for up to one minute), and then to remove the drain plug to get the remaining fluid out. Then replace the plug and add new fluid. No gasket / filter change necessary.
My question is... where is the oil cooler on this vehicle, and which hose do I disconnect?
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I recently had my Hyundai Entourage (2008) come up with the following engine codes: P0057 and P0037, both related to the downstream oxygen sensors. The generic description of the code is heated oxygen sensor heater control circuit low. As I understand this code, it is signaling that there is too much current passing through the heater circuit. The oxygen sensors test out OK for resistance, around 10 Ohms each and disconnecting them entirely and rerunning the test after driving a few times yields the same code. So I suspect the issue is not with the sensors but either the wiring or the ECU. I'd be a little surprised at a sudden short in the wires for both sensors but I suppose stranger things have happened. Oh and the fuse for the oxygen sensors has not blown. I am correct in reading these codes to mean there is an apparent short? Or are there any other things that could cause this to happen?
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Just bought an 04 Super duty with the factory plug 7pin and 4 pin plug. Checked the fuses and finally tracked down the 2 relays under the hood but can't seem to find anything wrong. Everything on the trailer works except for the running lights. Is there another fuse or something I have missed? Trailer works fine on my buddies Duramax and worked fine on my old 97.
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Need a wire diagram. I have a connector in the cab that has red,blue,lt green,white wires. It's causing my brake lights not to work. I need a wire diagram that shows were they go. I can't find these wires in my Haynes manual.
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Weeks ago, I was waiting for someone with my car idling and suddenly it just stalled. The battery power was still on but the engine died. When I restart it, it starts up but then dies after a few seconds. After trying 3-4 times it no longer starts. I had it towed to the repair shop and by the time they went to look at it, it started up just fine. A few days later I was driving (like 1 min from my house) and the car engine died, again the battery was still working. Power steering was gone. I coasted off the road and tried to start it--again it would start up and then die and then after a few tries it no longer starts. I had it brought to the repair shop. Again, it started fine for them but they changed out the battery just to see. I also had fuel cleaner put in the gas tank.
Just to be safe, I brought it to a dealer since my normal mechanic couldn't find anything. At the dealership they ran codes and didn't find any. They said that sometime the lines to the cams or crank get corroded but that mine looked fine. Since it wasn't doing it for them, they didn't have any other recommendations. Everything has been fine for the last few weeks and then I went to start my car last night. It started fine even though it's really cold and hasn't been driven in a few days. While I was scraping the car, I could hear the engine turn off. When I re-started it the same pattern happened--restarted the first few times and then died and then wouldn't even start. I don't even know what to do at this point since it only seems to happen close or at home and not for repair places.
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On my daily commute in stop-and-go traffic, on a bridge, headed downhill, suddenly neither the accelerator nor the brake pedal would engage in my 2008 Elantra. Cars in front of me had sped up, then ground to a halt, and I was coasting downhill toward them, at a pace too fast for the handbrake to stop me. I couldn't downshift either (the car has automatic transmission, but shifting to low lets the engine slow you down). With nothing else to try, I shut off the ignition and then turned it on and, amazingly, all was back to normal. The dealer didn't find any trouble codes in the computer so they say the car must be OK to drive. But I don't feel safe driving the car. This might have happened and what I can do to fix it?
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i have a 1995 sierra 2500 gas series. then my horn and my washer fluid aren't working. i cleaned all my ground posts and put in new fuses. when i hit the horn, you can hear the relay switch clicking. and, when i first went to use the washer fluid, it squirted once, then stopped. i checked and cleaned all ground posts. i also used an ohm meter on both horns' plugs. there's power coming to the horns???
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe GLS. The washer fluid light came on and I filled the reservoir with a complete jug of washer fluid. When I went to use the wipers no fluid came out of the front sprayers but the back one worked until it was completely empty in a matter minutes. When I stepped out of the car, there was a big puddle fluid on my side of the car. What this most likely is. I know there are a couple different scenarios from the reservoir being cracked to the pump. But just thought it was weird that the back sprayer was working before the tank was empty and front wasn't working at all.
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The wipers work fine, but it isn't spraying washer fluid. It's 3 degrees outside. I am not sure if there is a fuse for the washer fluid sprayer motor...
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So my wife and I swap vehicles for one day and what happens? It snows like hell and she can't get any wiper fluid to come out!
I started some troubleshooting and missed some clear indicators of the problem.
->Rear fluid works
->No pump engagement when trying the front fluid
Wasn't sure if I had 1 or 2 pumps (separate front and back or just one) so I bought one, tore out the reservoir (that air intake was a tough one), swapped the pumps and PRESTO! Still didn't work.
This leads me to believe I should have realized it was switch/power related all along. I don't mind tearing things apart, but I'm not good with electrical. Should I just buy a new whole stock and see if that works? My fuse isn't blown and seems to also be for the power windows, which do work, so I think I should be fine from that point.
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Turn signals quit working on my 2006 E-150. Swapped out the relay under the dash and it did nothing. Also noticed the brake lights aren't working. The headlights and taillight a are working. I pulled the fuses under dash for the lights and they tested ok. I did notice the flasher relay was making clicking sounds intermittently even when not touching anything.
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My windshield washer tank is leaking, need instructions on how I can fix it myself? Does the phone bumper have to come off, or is there a simple way to remove/replace it?
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I have a 2005 F-250 6.0 Powerstroke.
My washer fluid pump is not working, it was a few weeks ago but now it is broken. The Owner's Manual only has the listing fuse 33 for "cluster, 4x4, wipers". It looks like some of the older models have an actual fuse for the "washer fluid pump". I checked fuse 33 under the dash and it is ok. What fuse controls the washer fluid pump?
The pump does not make noise when activated, so I'm starting at the fuse but I don't know what the hell is going on.
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1993 ford ranger ... Having issues with washer fluid not working. Mine has started cutting out or not even working when I push the button. But if bang it on the end of the handle with something hard it will work just long enough to clean the salt off the window.
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Truck is in signature. All of a sudden my oem fogs don't work. I took a volt meter to the connection where the bulb plugs in and no juice. Checked the fuse and its good.I get 12 volts or so at fuse for fogs.. The fog light illuminator lights at the switch when I pull the switch. Is there a relay somewhere under the hood. All the relays in the fuse box checked out good and none of them in my truck guide were labeled for the fogs anyways. Looked for 3 hours and cant find a thing. If all else fails how do I cut the wires at the fog lights and run wire to cab with toggle switch? I know I need a relay right? I am not familiar with hooking up relays..
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My brake lights don't work. Turn signals, tail lights, hazard flashers work, but if I hit the brake, nothing happens. What could possibly be the problem? Could there be a wiring issue?
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I did lower the steering column, onto the seat. Also lowed the dash and the wiring. Does it sound like the Multifunction switch could be bad? I can put it in drive, so I don't think it's the brake light pedal switch, that's bad.
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i have an 85 f150. the brake lights are not working. i checked the bulbs, both filiments are working. i have running lights, turn signals, and hazards, just no brake lights. i am confused as to why i have everything else except brake lights. need to figure out what to do next to figure this out.
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I swapped a 4.9l into a 1997 F-350 that had a 5.8L originally, my issue is the fuel injectors are not working. I did my homework and got the harness that was with the engine out of a 1995 F-150 and also got the correct PCM to go along with my E4OD tranny that is in the F-350. It has spark and 60 plus PSI fuel pressure in the rail and will run with starting fluid shot in the throttle body. Both vehicles came with OBD I so should be compatible there. I do not have 12v to the injectors and obviously the NOID light shows no pulse either. Could be a ground but not sure where to look or what else could cause this.
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I got my first truck today and it's a 1988 Ford F-150 and it runs great! The only issue is that the speedometer doesn't work and I won't be able to register it until it does. I was wondering what I can try out to maybe fix the issue and if not, how I would replace it. Every other gauge works, it's just the speedometer that isn't. The needle doesn't move at all it just sits at a 0 all the time.
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