Electrical-wiring - Engines - Oil - Noises - Leaks :: Ticking From Hood When Accelerate Even In Park
Jun 17, 2016
I have a 1.8i golf 3.... I am Getting the ticking noise from the engine/head, not really sure what it is. I went to one mechanic who said it was the hydraulic lifters which i did change but no difference.
the noise gets louder when i accelerate even when parked, what i have noticed is when I accelerate when driving the noise gets louder and when i put my clutch in to change a gear the noise starts to drop but makes some kind of a winding noise.
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1996 ford explorer xlt 4.0. One day it worked fine the next day it would not start. When I turn the key there are no dash lights or exterior lights, nothing. There is also no crank over no noise of any kind. I checked all my fuses, I had one in my power distributer. It was for my premium sound, amplifier ect. I cant check the relays I don't have the correct tools. I was thinking maybe the pcm relay has gone bad? I tried jumping the car as well and nothing happened at all either.
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Ticking sound from the engine compartment. Here are the clues:
Have observed this since at least probably 2009. Affects a 2000 Saturn LW1 with DOHC 4-cylinder engine.
It's a mechanical "ticking" sound that seems to come from the right side under the hood.
It only happens in cold weather.
It typically starts a couple of minutes after the car is first started up on a cold morning.
It typically goes away when the engine warms up (after several minutes).
It always repeats at the same rate, maybe about 7?8 ticks per second.
It is independent of engine RPM.
It is independent of vehicle speed
Sometimes (but not always) it stops when you lift your foot off the accelerator (it may tend to do this after the engine has warmed up a bit). When you depress the accelerator it resumes It doesn't seem to affect performance but I'd love to know what it is and whether I need to worry.
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I have a 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid (automatic). The car has a bit under 200,000 miles on it, and has been used in a lot of long distance commuting and driving. We do pretty frequent check ups on it, and checked oil/other fluids last week -- all were good (the oil is admittedly getting close to needing a change, but definitely not within the next few weeks).
I was on the return trip of a 300+ mile drive when I noticed a rapid clicking/ticking sound roughly under the right side (passenger side) dash of the car. It was not affected by turning, accelerating or braking. The clicking was not constant, not very loud (I did not notice it over my music at first) and would come and go. If it was affected by anything, it appeared to come or go when a bump was hit, but that also wasn't necessarily always the case (hit bumps and it didn't stop, hit bumps and it didn't start). I checked wheel wells and under car for objects (suspension is a bit worn and car is low to begin with, so it rides close to ground and this has been a problem before; didn't seem similar) and there was nothing.
Google has led me to the possibility of sticky lifters, and though the sound is similar-ish, I am under the impression that this would be a much more constant noise and I am also fairly confident in the current quality of my oil.
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So my Honda Civic has been flashing my check engine light, which is telling my my cylinders are misfiring. I checked the ignition coils by removing them while the car was running and cylinder 2 and 3 I can remove and it doesn't change how the car runs. I put a new ignition coil In and that doesn't work so it isn't the ignition coils, what it could be?
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I have a 1997 Toyota Hilux (unleaded, not diesel) and I'm looking for input as she keeps breaking down but no one is able to figure out the problem. While in gear and driving, the gas stops engaging and the speed slowly drops. The car stutters while slowing down but then if I switch gears or rev the engine it will stop. After some time this continues to happen more frequently (at all speeds) until the car eventually stops and dies. Try to restart and the engine will turn over but not start. After sitting for a night or so, though, she starts up and runs just fine. Thus no mechanics have been able to solve the issue!
Could be a fuel problem as the exhaust pipe makes a banging sound when this happens, but it could also be electrical.
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I would like to hook up some auxiliary reverse lights, I want to use a relay. And activate the relay when I put my truck in reverse. I would like the relay to be in my custom relay/fuse box under my hood near my battery. I'm looking for a wire I can tap into, to use to active the relay as close to the battery as possible. Or at least a wire on the outside of the cab near the engine compartment. Maybe there's one coming from the tranny? I have a 2011 f250 super duty. XL, I think, its a very base model truck no power windows or locks, only fm/am radio, no NAV system, no remote unlock, no nothing, 2 wheel drive.
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My truck is a 1990 F-150 with the 351. I was replacing the spark plugs last night, got it all wrapped up and everything squared away, and after firing the truck up I noticed a ticking noise. It was not there before I replaced the old plugs, and it is not at all loud. I can hardly hear it with the hood closed. It appears to be coming from the driver's side of the engine. It does not misfire when its idling, and it revs smoothly. However, while driving it is noticeably choppy and feels sluggish.
Any thoughts on what it could be? I used dielectric grease on the boots, but I did not replace the plug wires themselves, or the distributor cap. I am probably going to replace the plug wires today though, because the plugs I took out were not in good condition and its been a bit too long since I replaced them last. Its also worth noting this engine is less than years old. This is a frustrating problem because I've replaced the spark plugs on her before, so I'm not quite sure what I did wrong this time.
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1980 F-250, 351M. Battery tests OK - 500 cold cranking amps. New starter, new starter solenoid. When I turn the key to ignition, small click under the hood on driver's side. Turn to start, the starter solenoid clicks once, but no turnover. After that, all electrical is dead - no lights, no horn, no radio, no clicks. Turn the key to accessory, gauges work, but no radio, etc. Turn the key to ignition, nothing. Tried jumping from another car, and the cables melted.
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I have an 01 diesel excursion and last night I came home and when I turned the headlights off the park lights/running lights stayed on. When I turned the switch to park lights on, they got a little brighter? After an hour or so, the lights then went off.
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I have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
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The truck starts fine and when it was idling just started this loud machine gun sound for a few seconds, then stopped, and then happened again. I turned it off, and now...? May or may not be related but the battery was dead yesterday. We jumped it quickly and drove it to let it charge. Had the battery checked and it tested good. The battery is only about 6 months old but it's been pretty hot here in southern NM so figured that was probably the cause. There was no check engine light. I did a search here and spark plugs were mentioned for a Ford, but not sure if that holds true for the Honda.
Honda Ridgeline RTL 2006
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A few months ago my car started whining at highway speeds. The noise has increased in pitch and volume, and is not dependent on engine speed--in fact, if I turn the engine off and coast, the whine persists, lowering in pitch (and getting quieter) when the car slows down. Recently the car has also started vibrating when I turn slightly to the right, as when I change lanes on the highway or bank right on a long turn (sharp right turns from a full stop don't elicit any noise). Do I have a problem with my alignment? I notice my tire wear looks a bit uneven.
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I drive a 2005 toyota mini-van. Lately the engine has started sounding strange. it has been sounding like a tiny diesel engine or like a go-kart. There are no lights on on the dash, I have not noticed any changes in fuel consumption, acceleration etc. and the temperature is normal. Is this a timing issue? is my car about to die? what are the repair costs?
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I hear a strange UFO like, bird like chirping noise coming from the rear of the car. The chirps increase and decrease in frequency but with no regularity and do not match engine rpm or vehicle speed. It will do it at idle or highway speed but gradually disappears. It comes and it goes when it wants to.
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This make and model is the same as a Chevy Trailblazer. It has 124K miles on it, when it's cruising, there is no weird noise from the engine, but when I give it gas at any speed, there is a distinct sound coming from the rear of the engine. It sounds like when you put a playing card on your bike and the spokes hit it, but faster. The more gas, the louder the sound. It's gotten progressively worse lately. My first thought was rattling valves, but I'm not sure. It also sounds like a hole in a vacuum hose or something. With the hood up and an ear to the engine, the sound is definitely coming from the engine, not around it, and toward the rear.
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I have a '99 Dodge Stratus V6 with 125,000 miles. When I turn on the car, I can hear a hum when idling. When I start driving, I cannot hear the hum anymore (but maybe it's drowned out by other noises the car makes, or just the engine). It gets higher pitched as it slows down to idle, and a bit lower pitched if I step on the gas lightly. It has been slowly getting louder over the last few months. What could this be due to?
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I am a beginner when it comes to anything involving wiring. I am looking to re-wire all of the wiring coming off of the instrument cluster gauges. Once I have completed all of the wiring on the gauges, I may feel confident to move onto something else. As of rite now, it appears as though my truck is still running on all of the original wiring, and over the past few weeks, I have been having many wiring related issues. I found a schematic that includes the wiring for the gauges that I am going to go off of. I have a couple of questions before I begin.
1.) On the schematic, it shows connectors such as "Connector G" which is moving all of the gauges wires to there locations. Do I need to use a specific Ford connector, or could I purchase a new connector at any hardware store that carries them? As far as I am concerned, connectors do the same thing as all other connectors. (Let you connect and disconnect for easy instrument cluster removal.)
2.) I am not looking to purchase one of those expensive wiring harnesses. I would like to just purchase some wire that I can cut / use myself. What brand / type of wire should I be looking to purchase? I do not care if it is striped / colored as I will use wire tabs to name / label each wire.
Other than that, I feel confident enough to attempt something such as this. Here is the wiring schematic I am going to use.....
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Any COMPLETE headlight switch wiring diagram? Everything I find online only shows 2-3 wires in each sub connector, nothing with all wires and colors, and what they do. and of course the factory service manuals no longer work on my new computer. the switch and associated wires went up in smoke 2 hours ago, and this truck is my only means of transportation rite now. what i need is headlight wiring with colors so i can temporary hook up a toggle switch to have lights until the new switch and connectors come in next week. I went to pull the switch and connectors out of the parts truck, but of course that does not have fog lights so it uses different switch and connections.
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I plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.
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I have a 97 F250 HD. Wiring the rear tail lights. When we bought it the had cut off the wires going to both sides of the rear lighting assemblys and I was wondering what wire went to what i have the left turn signal working just can't seem to get the brake/back up light to work on that side and i can't figure out how to get the right side going either.
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