Electrical-wiring - Brakes - Suzuki - Grandvitara :: 2001 - Brake Light Fuse Keeps Blowing
Jun 30, 2016
I'm having brake light issues with a 2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara. The brake light fuse keeps blowing. The last time driven with me following the driver side brake light was dimmer than the passenger side. At one stop the driver side brake light pulsed brighter for a split second then went back to dim. A few stops later it became as bright as the passenger side and stayed that way for the rest of the trip. The driver put in a breaker fuse and it was in during the observed trip. I'm not sure of the brake light visual symptoms without the breaker fuse in other than that the fuse keeps blowing which prevents the vehicle from being shifted out of park. What the problem could be? Bad ground?
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2006 F-250 SD... I Keep popping the 15A #17 fuse under certain conditions - Driving forward
1. Start with good fuse.
2. Start engine, while in park, turn on parking light...4.8A on circuit. No problems.
3. Put into reverse and drive. down the block around the corner and back up to the house... No problem. 4.8A on circuit.
Put the shifter into drive and - POP - the fuse goes. I never see a jump in the current. 1-5 seconds until fuse goes. While conducting testing, I have had the fuse blow when shifting from reverse to park. Looking at the wiring diagrams, I don't see a common wire that would cause a short when shifting. What I should try next?
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I posted earlier about the tranny in my 01 Ex v10 having a transmission problem. The show looked at it and found the O2 sensor had shorted out and in some way sending the truck in to limp home causing the tranny fuse to blow????
Any way they fixed it or so they said and I drove it for a few hours and it did fine. The next morning I drove it and it blew the fuse. (under hood box I belive #19) I took it back to the shop and they beat and banged on it....got it wet etc. and can not get it to do it again. I know whe have an electrical issue but what all runs off of the fuse that controlls the tranny?
Is there any online wiring diagrams of excursions or superduty drive trains? Where all to look for the problem?
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2001 F-350 diesel. Out of nowhere, I start the truck and there's no turn signals. Fuse is blown so I replace it. It immediately blows. Tail lights work. No turn signal, brake lights, or hazards. I haven't hooked up a trailer or done anything abnormal recently. Only the #1 fuse (20Amp) is blown. Pulled bulbs and they work fine. Inspected wiring under and near lights. NOTHING! Any way to localize a short?
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Overdrive fuse keeps blowing. Drive one and 2 shifts fine. 3 and overdrive don't work. Had transmission checked it is fine. Repair shop says it is electrical.
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger king cab 4x4 with a three inch lift kit on it . My problem is the fuse is blowing that goes to the fuel pump . It started out blowing the fuse now and then when it was raining . Well I thought it mite be the fuel pump going bad but after I put the new pump in the truck it lasted about a week and started blowing fuses again . I put another fuse in and it go a few days and blow it . Last week on a 100 mile tripe I got almost there and it burned a fuse on the highway . I tried to put another fuse in and it would blow it as soon as I tried to start the truck . Burned five fuses right then . So I had it towed to mothers house and put another fuse in and it cranked up . I looked at the wiring that was not wrapped in that plastic cover stuff and have not found anything yet ...
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My 2005 4.6L 4x4 screw is blowing the 10amp a/c clutch, 4x4 solenoid fuse whenever i turn the a/c on, at times whenever I turn the defrost on. the fuse does not blow when i turn the key to power (no engine start) but when engine is running fuse will trip. I disconnected elect. Connection at compressor and fuse still blows, also seems like no power or life from compressor.
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I have a 1994 f150 5.0 engine and automatic transmission. Problem I am having is speedometer, cruise control is not working. Overdrive light is flashing and number 18 fuse keep blowing. horn is still working...
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I purchased a 94 Ford Explorer 4x4 4.0L w/ Automatic transmission with Overdrive. Great work truck, but I am finding that these had a lot of wiring problems. First thing that messed up with me is the backup lights wouldn't work. Then the dash lights and parking lights stopped working (Still no fuses where bad). Then about 2 weeks later, I was on my way home when It just died like someone had turned the switch off, I pulled off the side of the Interstate, and after checking my fuses/Relays under the hood.
I found that the EEC Fuse (30AMP-BIG Fuse) had blowed, I didn't have one and the truck wasn't off the road good, So I wrapped a small wire around the fuse to see if I could start it and get it out of the road better, It started right up, but soon as I pulled it off the road it died again, and I found that it melted the EEC Relay, I went to the parts store and got a new relay and fuse and put them in, It blows the fuse as soon as I put it in, with the switch off or on. I just need to know what things will cause this so I can check them out one by one, until I find the one that is causing this problem, cause It run great up till this happen.
Only other thing I may need to let you know, Is when I bought it, the key switch would start it, The guy had put a push button starter switch that you push to start it with the key on, I unhooked it, and it started fine with the key for a while then it stopped again, so I had to hook the push button back up and had been using it until it stop running with me.
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I own a 2007 Suzuki Grand Vitara, V6, about 104,000 miles. My mechanic recommended the annual oil change in December 2015. My vehicle started making a loud tapping noise July 2016, so I took it to a mechanic. My mechanic discovered my car had no engine oil and there's no evidence of a leak. I have to replenish the engine oil every three weeks. My mechanic recommends I replace the PVC Valve; I'm unsure if the issue is the PVC Valve or oil compatibility issue. Oh I must also mention (not sure if it's related) when driving or parked and my a/c is running, the a/c intermittently blows out hot air....I can hear the transition like another vent suddenly opens up.
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I have a 2006 Suzuki Grand Vitara with a manual gear box. When I start the car in the morning it tends to shake a bit, especially if I touch the accelerator. Just after starting, I can change up through the gears up to 3rd gear without touching the accelerator. After a while when it warms up, it is fine.
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Need a wire diagram. I have a connector in the cab that has red,blue,lt green,white wires. It's causing my brake lights not to work. I need a wire diagram that shows were they go. I can't find these wires in my Haynes manual.
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I have put on over 45000 miles already on my 07 SX4 and love this car. I am getting a brake light coming on at various times after releasing the brakes and accelerating. It goes out usually after I stop accelerating or hitting the brakes. It does not come back on after driving about 20 miles.
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I have a 1962 ford falcon ranchero. The driver side brake light, goes out when brake pressure is applied, but is on when lights are fully on, but even then brake pressure is applied and goes out. Right brake light is fine. And turn signal on right works. But driver side back light goes out when brake pressure is put on and when turn signal is put for left side. Right makes a turn noise left side doesn't. I recently replaced the turn signal switch. So its brand new. But older wires every where else. No cuts anywhere on wires. Fine. And replaced the bulb also.
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I have a fuse blowing in my 98 Citation that is in the panel light/exterior running lights (front and back). Could the short be in the dimmer switch in the dashboard or is that unlikely?
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2010 F-250 14,000 miles, gas engine with Knapheide utility bed. Tilt wheel has been kept in the up position from day 1.
The problem:
No rear brake lights.
No high mount brake light.
No rear turn signals.
No rear hazard flashing lights.
All trailer lights work.
All other truck lights work.
Things checked: Fuses all OK. Visual inspection of multi-function switch. Looks clean. Brake switch at brake pedal has power on one wire. Jumpered the other wire-no brake lights.
I need to haul my trailer and am nervous when I see a Savannah, GA metro police car.
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I installed LED tail lights a few months ago, now all of a sudden the passenger side does not light for brakes or turn signals. The lights came with resistors that I put in when installing and the adhesive wore out and they were dangling in the truck frame. The wires connecting the resistors to the light were damaged. I taped the exposed wires and secured them a with a heavier tape, but taping did not work. I also tried switching the resistor packs with the driver side to see if it was them that have an open winding, but they are still operable.
I narrowed it down to wiring between the trailer hook up and passenger light assembly in the electrical circuit. I plugged an LED light bar into the trailer connection and the same problem occurred (running lights come on, but no turn signal or brake light). Where could there be a short? Or is this circuit fused somewhere that the running lights come on but a separate fused circuit triggers the higher voltage for LEDs.
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I've got an 86 ranger sport and I'm having trouble with the lights. The turn signals work, and ALL 4 bulbs in the back are new. The brake light fuse keeps blowing, and the fuse for the tail lights is good but they won't come on at all. I was told there was a direct short somewhere, does that sound about right? And is there a common place where they tend to short out?
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My center brake light went out a month ago. Thought it was the bulb so replaced that, still didn't work. Checked the fuse and its not broken so my guess was electrical?
Hasn't come on once that I know of but I was randomly walking behind my truck and the light was on. Truck was off lights were off and key wasn't in the ignition.
Went and turned my truck on and turned the lights on and the cbl stayed on. When I switched my lights off it went out and stayed out.
Now I'm definitely thinking wiring but not sure where to start fixing?
Oh and it's a 1990 F150 XLT
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Why the parking brake light in my dash stays on, 2004 F150. Fluid in master cylinder is full, has no signs of leaks anywhere.
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I need to hook up a lamp for my mechanical oil pressure gauge and tested all the fuses, they are either on or on with key in run position, but I found none that went on with the lights, which of course is what I need. So now I guess I start randomly sticking needles in wires under the dash and testing for a possible light switch dependent circuit? Or run a wire through the firewall and tap a wire near a running light? There's got to be an easier way, but my Haynes manual seems useless--one wiring diagram for 1995-2008. I will be forced to run it off a key on circuit which means the lamp will be on anytime I drive, day or night, unless I install a toggle switch--not the best way to do it though.
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