Electrical-wiring :: 2009 Honda Pilot Won't Go Into Drive?
Sep 18, 2015
While my wife was driving tonight the VSA light went on, the emergency brake light went on, and the "D" for drive was flashing green. She stopped the car and called me. One the Car was in park, it would not go back into the Drive, and it continued to flash green. I've tried pulling fuses, disconnecting the battery. The other issue is that The hazard lights will not work and the turning blinker will not function. I have determined its an electrical issue. Other than that I'm clueless.
I popped the button just below port just below the shifter and manually put in drive and drove it home.
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My 1995 honda passport ran great until a couple of weeks ago. I moved to North Carolina, and it sat for a few days as I was unpacking. When I started it back up, sometimes when I hit the brake, the lights on the middle dash come on for a split second, then go off. Also, my winter and power drive buttons don't work (anymore). As of yesterday, the lights didn't come on when I hit the brake, but it started hesitating when I started to drive.
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While driving 1 of 3 issues occur... radio will click off for 2 seconds, entire dash turns off for 2 seconds (car continues to run), or all electric clicks off and car shuts off. If left to sit for a few minutes car will restart. Will occur a bunch of times in one trip and then not for a week. Does not seem to depend on type of driving or weather conditions. Honda cant seem to figure out and until the yesterday they blew me off. Yesterday, the anti-theft actually locked out the radio, so at least they could see "something" occurred.
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I will describe as best as I can. You know when you drive over the rumble strip on the edge of the highway, this is exactly how the car feels. The vehicle was well maintained and I'm the original owner. A little history, I was rear ended a few years ago multi car accident and I was the first vehicle the Mercedes C300 behind me was totaled. I only felt a little bump to be honest. The rear bumper had some damage as well as the quarter panel and a flat tire but no damage to the rim.
I think a short time after is when this started but not right after. I'm thinking that the rear diff was damaged, but I'm not sure how the car feels or what does it do when the diff is going bad. The oil in the diff was changed every 30k. The engine and the transmission seem to be fine. This shudder hits around 40 and sometimes at 60 and it is an awful shake and when I let off on the gas it goes away and sometimes comes right back. Some days it doesn't do it and then some days a lot.
Also, the tires and brakes are new.
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I'm trying to decide which vehicle will be the better buy. I'm looking at a 2008 Honda Pilot EX-L and a 2009 or 2010 Mazda CX-9. I need lots of storage space for hockey bags and the occasional 3rd row. Drove both but can't decide which is the better buy.
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This morning, while looking into why the front drive wouldn't engage, and moving the plastic cover over the battery out of the way to check for any vacuum issues, the positive battery post cable to the battery post moved. There was some fluctuation engine-wise. After I shut it off and tightened down the cable, re-started the truck, and continued looking for vacuum leaks, a few minutes later the truck died.
What's been done thus far, re-checked battery connections, checked in-line mini fuse-20amp, checked both mega fuses-power both sides of each, checked 10 amp #4 in cab fuse block, removed alternator and took for check-checked ok. Would there be something else that would trip if there was an abrupt dis-connect from the battery with the truck running?
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I have a 2004 Honda Civic, and my phone and my Bluetooth unit are (sometimes) plugged into the cigarette lighter (euphemistically renamed the 12V Power Adapter). Problem is, when I shut off the car, the power adapter shuts off, depriving my phone and/or Bluetooth unit of a sometimes much-needed charge. My Suburban keeps the adapters on even when the power is shut off, and I love it.
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I have a 2008 Honda Accord that about 4 months ago the drl light on the dashboard would come on for a few seconds and then go off. This happened 2 or 3 times a week. During this time the driver side drl light would also quit working. A couple of weeks later it progressed to the drl dashboard light would come on, then the tpms dashboard light would also come on. After an intermittent period of time (seconds to minutes) the icon showing low tire pressure would flash for a second and the drl light and tpms light would go off. This happened maybe 3 times in a day, then not happen again for a week or so. Air pressure in all tires was correct. About week ago it progressed to the drl dashboard light and the tpms dashboard light stay on all the time and neither the drl light (drl mode or high beam or will work on the driver side. In the past few days the low beam on the driver side has also quit working.
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So my Honda Civic has been flashing my check engine light, which is telling my my cylinders are misfiring. I checked the ignition coils by removing them while the car was running and cylinder 2 and 3 I can remove and it doesn't change how the car runs. I put a new ignition coil In and that doesn't work so it isn't the ignition coils, what it could be?
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So heres the deal 1989 civic dx hatchback 106k on the odometer automatic 1.5l d15b2 engine . It's been having delayed starts taking 3 to 6 cranks before firing up then running fine, suddenly it dawned on me maybe it was the distributor , so I swapped it with a spare I had because sure enough the old one had red death red dust in the cap. Cleaned the contacts set the timing reassembled, some wires broke on the back of the wiring harness to the distro. Rewired them, the car kept getting worse I jumped it and took it to my friend a vw mechanic it drove 49 miles there fine after the jump, new plugs new wires new fuel filter we did the wire job set the timing checked the timing belt got the battery tested and the alternators new and did a oil change also did a coolant flush a few weeks ago.
It started right up drove it back to Chicago , in the morning I was getting off the highway it stopped running no noises I pulled over 8 cranks later it started parked it 3 blocks away, went to test drive it when I stopped at a light it shut off cramming it and hitting the gas pedal got it to start drove it a block down it shut off at a stop sign and I parked it. What it is I'm throwing code 8 which is a top dead sensor which I think is in the distro which I replaced a month ago. Fuel pump sounds like its priming but you have to gas it and crank it to start it which is odd for a automatic , it is girk injected is this tds sensor going to do that by itself? Or could it be a ignition module? ( what I read online) starter? Main relay , fuel pump switch?
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2005 Honda Accord. I have been experiencing a loss of electricity to my dashboard - the radio cuts out, tach and speedometer needles drop, sometimes warning lights come on. I don't think I have experience a loss of power with this but when it happens, it lasts less than a second.
I can go days of driving without issue. Then, in one drive it may happen four or five times. I hate the idea of taking it into the dealer on an intermittent electrical issue. That could be a real bank drain.
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I have a 1997 F250 that I am fixing up. The issue is this... The dash lights now flicker off when I place the transmission in Drive position. I can slightly move the slack in the gear selector and the lights come back on. When the transmission is in Park, the dash lights work correctly. Not sure why there is some type of switch to control the dash lights buried within the steering column?
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My Honda has a strange problem that is vexing my mechanic. While I am driving, the engine spits and sputters and sometimes dies. I try to restart and it starts right up but runs rough. Sometimes it takes a while to start back up. If I wait a few minutes, it will start again and drive fine for a while. Then it will do it again. After it is warm or when it is cold at the start, it won't do it.My mechanic cannot get it to do it long enough to diagnose. The computer is not throwing any codes. I believe it is electrical because when it does this, the speedometer goes crazy bouncing up and down. Electrical problem also may explain why the computer is not throwing any codes. I need to narrow it down because my mechanic is reluctant to start trying things as I don't have a lot of money to throw at this.
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Yet again my honda is doing some new. My mid dash lights don't come on at all anymore (even when i start the car), my power drive and winter drive buttons don't work, I can't stop/start on a hill, I have to get 2rpms going to get anywhere, and my battery volts are over 12 when driving.
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My car is a 1998 Honda Civic. The left turn signal blinks at double speed when the headlights are off. When the headlights are on, it blinks at half speed. Should I replace the left-sided bulbs? Or the turn signal relay? Or something else? None of the bulbs are out in the front or rear.
One other fact: If the hazards are on with headlight OFF everything blinks in synchrony. If the hazards are on with the headlight ON the front blinkers flash alternating (left-right-left etc).
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Today my wife came home and said CEL was on, so I connected a bluetooth OBD2 reader (like I have done before) and read the codes, a P144a, which has something to do with the EVP. So, I shut the key off and proceeded to take the hose off of the EVP and unhook the wiring connector and then start the car to see if there was a vacuum leak through the valve. Well, when I went to start the car, it would not start. The Securilock icon was flashing on the dash and the car would only click, it would not turn over. I tried our spare key and got the same results.
I have tried unhooking the battery for 30 minutes but that has not made a difference either. Now, the key fob won't work at all, the door power locks won't work, the windows don't work, the radio, lights, heat and A/C won't work, and the dome lights won't come on. Whenever the battery is connected, I can hear a fast clicking sound coming from the area beneath and behind the radio and the front marker lights are on very very dim. The battery tests out at 12 volts. What in the world did I do and how can I fix it?
I should also note that I cannot get my OBD2 reader to connect to the system anymore. Also, after trying to leave the battery unhooked for 30 minutes again, the dome lights started working and the power locks would lock the door, but within about 3 seconds, the doors would automatically unlock. After turning the key to the start position, I again lost the dome lights and power locks.
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My door will not lock..when you hit the remote, the door button or try to push it down..it goes down a little and there is resistance and then it comes right back up. If I use the key it will lock easily, but once you turn the key to get it out it comes right back up. I can hear the motor working, but it feels like there is something stopping it from going all the way down.
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I have a 2009 Camry Hybrid. Both driver side door locks work/fail intermittently. This sometimes does/doesn't happen when i use the inside door panel button, outside door button, outside hand sensor when i grab the door latch, remote control buttons, gear shift . . . etc. I see the driver side locks open/close or not move while I see the passenger side doors lock/unlock correctly.
For some reason, it seems to be a bit better when the weather gets warmer around hear in the northeast. I thought it might have something to do with the integration relay. But I'm not exactly sure where it is. I looked under the dashboard, too many wires!. On the drivers side I have located the fuse box, unplugged most of the wires, plugged them back in and it seemed to work only for a day or two, but the temperature also warmed up on those days.
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I am a beginner when it comes to anything involving wiring. I am looking to re-wire all of the wiring coming off of the instrument cluster gauges. Once I have completed all of the wiring on the gauges, I may feel confident to move onto something else. As of rite now, it appears as though my truck is still running on all of the original wiring, and over the past few weeks, I have been having many wiring related issues. I found a schematic that includes the wiring for the gauges that I am going to go off of. I have a couple of questions before I begin.
1.) On the schematic, it shows connectors such as "Connector G" which is moving all of the gauges wires to there locations. Do I need to use a specific Ford connector, or could I purchase a new connector at any hardware store that carries them? As far as I am concerned, connectors do the same thing as all other connectors. (Let you connect and disconnect for easy instrument cluster removal.)
2.) I am not looking to purchase one of those expensive wiring harnesses. I would like to just purchase some wire that I can cut / use myself. What brand / type of wire should I be looking to purchase? I do not care if it is striped / colored as I will use wire tabs to name / label each wire.
Other than that, I feel confident enough to attempt something such as this. Here is the wiring schematic I am going to use.....
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Any COMPLETE headlight switch wiring diagram? Everything I find online only shows 2-3 wires in each sub connector, nothing with all wires and colors, and what they do. and of course the factory service manuals no longer work on my new computer. the switch and associated wires went up in smoke 2 hours ago, and this truck is my only means of transportation rite now. what i need is headlight wiring with colors so i can temporary hook up a toggle switch to have lights until the new switch and connectors come in next week. I went to pull the switch and connectors out of the parts truck, but of course that does not have fog lights so it uses different switch and connections.
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I plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.
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