I pumped gas at the local Chevron after noticing I was running just below a quarter tank this morning and immediately after turning the truck back on the instrument panel was dead. All other electric components worked fine (windows, headlights, signals, radio, etc.) Yukon GMC 2003 110k miles...
View 8 Replies03 F250 Instrument panel does not work. Have checked all fuses with a meter. Have already fixed broken wires from the OD button on shifter handle. and also the alternator is not charging. I need wiring diagram that shows the wires coming out the back of the fuse box so I can see if the fuse holder is burned out......
View 8 RepliesFor about 3 months, my wife's 2003 explorer has had a bad door sensor (I'm guessing). The car claims a door is ajar and the alarm would go off randomly if it's locked. Yesterday the battery died because apparently the alarm had been going off for so long while she was at work. After having a stranger jump it, she has had major problems:
-She claimed the headlights didn't work in any setting except in the on position with high beams on, but now they seem to work.
-The instrument panel is totally out including all gauges and all lights
-the power windows don't work
-the radio won't turn on or show any display
-the interior lights won't turn on
All of the fuses are fine and my mechanic checked them as well. He did say that a few key fuses aren't getting any power to them on either side. But the battery is charging and drawing just fine. The car doesn't seem to have any other issues and all of the flashers work just fine.
What the problem could be? I have wondered if one of the relays is busted.
I am a beginner when it comes to anything involving wiring. I am looking to re-wire all of the wiring coming off of the instrument cluster gauges. Once I have completed all of the wiring on the gauges, I may feel confident to move onto something else. As of rite now, it appears as though my truck is still running on all of the original wiring, and over the past few weeks, I have been having many wiring related issues. I found a schematic that includes the wiring for the gauges that I am going to go off of. I have a couple of questions before I begin.
1.) On the schematic, it shows connectors such as "Connector G" which is moving all of the gauges wires to there locations. Do I need to use a specific Ford connector, or could I purchase a new connector at any hardware store that carries them? As far as I am concerned, connectors do the same thing as all other connectors. (Let you connect and disconnect for easy instrument cluster removal.)
2.) I am not looking to purchase one of those expensive wiring harnesses. I would like to just purchase some wire that I can cut / use myself. What brand / type of wire should I be looking to purchase? I do not care if it is striped / colored as I will use wire tabs to name / label each wire.
Other than that, I feel confident enough to attempt something such as this. Here is the wiring schematic I am going to use.....
Looking for a source for a wiring diagram for the 2003/4 f350 instrument cluster, specifically the wiring/connectors to the gauges? A link to a PDF file would be nice. I would like to try and disconnect the PCM control to the transmission temperature and engine temperature and drive the gauges from my own sensors to bypass the non-linear behavior that ford decided was in our best interest. I am NOT interested in installing any more gauges, just want to control the ones already present with my own signals. It is possible that these gauges are all addressable devices on a common bus, instead of individual controls.
View 8 RepliesI am currently converting a 1999 E350 7.3 diesel bus into a camper to live in. The bus has already had a lot of weird custom work. Done by someone else and a lot of the interior torn out and extra insulation put in. There is an exposed electrical panel behind the drivers seat. It was a cheap buy, previously fleet maintained with only 120k.
I was hooking up a battery for accessories to a terminal labeled "Battery" that does run indeed directly to the + terminal of the battery in the engine compartment.
Unfortunately I mistakenly connected the accessory battery to a terminal labeled "ignition" that runs to behind the dash. When I tried starting the vehicle off the auxiliary battery for a test everything went out for 2 seconds, I heard a click from the engine compartment, and everything than came back on. This is when I realized my mistake.
It used to be the speedo only didn't work (which I assumed was the step motor), now after this mistake all the gauges, the odometer and the buzzers don't work. Lights like the battery and airbag warning indicator still function.
Checked fuse 2 (15 amp) for the instrument cluster and it is intact. Actually checked every fuse in the vehicle in both fuse panels and all are intact. The radio works though and the vehicle is not equipped with power windows.
Going to go get a radio removal tool to take apart the dash and get back there. What this could be? Did I fry a relay? Did I fry the cluster circuit board.
I have a 2003 F550 6L diesel flatbed truck. Last week, the overdrive button would activate by itself. I'm assuming there was a loose wire so I taped the button to keep the overdrive off. Two days later, the overdrive came on while the button was pressed in and then smoke came out of the steering column/lever area. I pulled over and turned off the truck. The smoke stopped after 10 seconds and I restarted the truck. The overdrive light/functionality no longer worked and the instrument cluster also wasn't working.
The next day I was driving, and the truck died at a stoplight. I got it towed home, and opened the steering column and noticed that the overdrive button wire had burned. I removed the harness clip and charged the batteries. It started but the instrument cluster still didn't work. 2 minutes later the truck died. I replaced the alternator but still it won't charge the batteries. The truck dies 2 mins after getting a battery boost to start the truck. The instrument cluster also doesn't work. What could be causing this issue?
My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Prius with 285,000 miles on it, and I have NEVER had any problems with it, and I was VERY satisfied. Today when I woke up, I went to turn on my Prius to warm it up before we left for Christmas, and I noticed that the Speedometer, Gas Gauge, and Instrument panel did not light up. The Blinkers work, MFD works, and the Check engine light pops on and then off after I start the car. Even when my lights are on, the green light in the panel doesn't illuminate.
View 8 RepliesLast night, while my wife was driving, the battery light on her instrument panel started flashing. This morning the battery light came back on when she started the car. As she was driving on the highway, the ABS light, the stability light, and couple other lights came on, plus her she was losing power to her wheels. She said it then felt like the car was towing a heavy object and that there was no power going to the wheels or any other part of the car. She was able to drive it a few miles to a parking lot, where it died.
When she tried to restart it, she heard a clicking sound, but had no power and the engine was not turning over. She could not remote lock the doors because the all power was gone.
The tow truck driver tested the car and said the battery is fine, but that the alternator was dead. She had it towed to the dealer, who also says it is the alternator that is the problem.
This all occurred after we had a previous, and resolved issue, to the instrument panel (including the light around the cigarette lighter) and the taillights going out intermittently. The dealer disconnected the electrical connection to the towing package and the lights have stayed on since.
Seems odd to have an alternator go on a two-year old vehicle (we bought it new in Jan 2011). Could it actually be the alternator or something else?
The instrument cluster in my 2005 Mountaineer has been randomly "failing" for about 2 months. By "failing", I mean the gauges will go to zero and bounce, the dash lights will go on and off, and the radio will go out. The car will continue driving normally. Headlights stay on, windows work, cruise works, interior lights work. This random event lasts about 4 seconds. It may do it again within minutes, or not again for the day. Sometimes, when I open the car door to get in (keys not in ignition), I will notice the gauges are bouncing at the zero mark. I took it to the shop, but of course it didn't do it there. They checked the alternator and battery. Battery is old, but checked out. A few weeks later, complete Alternator failure. Replaced the battery and alternator and I hoped that would solve the dash issue, but it did not. I've had it to the dealership, and to an independent, and their not sure what's up with it. The code readers give no insight.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford F-150 xlt with stock instrument cluster. I need a new instrument cluster due to my interior lights coming on while driving. I would like to make it look better and not go stock. Id like to have digital shift screen and good looking LED's. What all are my options?
View 2 RepliesMy hazard, reverse don't work. The over all instruments panel light doesn't light up (the small bulbs work). Gauges with needles work. I'm putting every thing back into the truck. I left the steering wheel resting on the floor while cleaning and also left the wiring in. Everything else came out because I had to clean out the smell of mice. After I installed the instrument panel I started the truck, there was no hazard lights. I checked all the fuses under the dash. I checked all the fuses under the hood.
I did have a bent brake plug blade to bend straight. I need to replace a bad key cylinder, you can turn it without a key. I believe there were three plugs I unplug to lower the steering wheel. Park brake, brake pedal and a plug under the steering wheel. Wipers, interior ceiling light work. I believe there's a switch on the column (?) that includes the wiper arm. Should it also operate the hazard lights ? The steering column is installed, I can drive it around. Outside cargo lights won't go off, even with the light switch pushed in. Everything worked before.
Earlier this year had dead battery after sitting for a week. 5 year old battery so bought new one battery still goes dead randomly (overnight), instead of playing radio for a few minutes after key off, dash displays "system off to conserve power" ran it thru local repair place (ex ford dealer) nothing found. Voltage 14v at 1800 rpm, lights on". STILL goes dead randomly...
View 6 RepliesWell I've had her just 1 week, used, and today I turned it on and the power is out on the A/C n Heater /Fan Control ASSY. It worked the last 900 miles from FL to OH. And today worked this morning, but 2nd time I got in the truck today there was No Lights in the Air Control Assy. I didn't get an Owners Manual, so what fuse to check.
View 3 RepliesI recently bought a 1969 chevy c10 pickup. I have been having problems with the electrical system, the battery consistently going dead despite a new battery and alternator installed by the previous owner. Is there a step-by-step for diagnosis of this problem?
View 3 RepliesI have a 02 f350 v10 with a starting problem. Sometimes it will crank but really slowly almost like the battery is dead, but its not! bench tested the battery and actually just bought another new one. And with the same result. I tested the relay that's on the firewall in between the starter and the battery and it checked out, i also bought a new relay and i want to put it in except I haven't figured out which wire goes to the coil and which one goes to the ignition. the battery and starter poles are marked and easy to follow ..
Also last month I changed the starter but I'm starting to get desperate and i think I'm going to take it off and have it bench tested as well. I'm just really at a loss in which direction to go. The truck on the outside really looks good but living in the northeast the frame and probably most of the outside grounds are toast and I've been renewing or just placing them as I come across them. Before i forget i tried jumping the starter directly from the battery with cables and got the same result. it would crank but too slow to actually turn over.. Sometimes my radio and ignition lights will sometimes come on without the key in the ignition..
I have a fuse blowing in my 98 Citation that is in the panel light/exterior running lights (front and back). Could the short be in the dimmer switch in the dashboard or is that unlikely?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Suburban (chevy) 5.3 liter Vortec engine, auto trans 4 wheel drive, fully loaded. As of late I come out in the morning to find a dead battery. this happened before and I disconnected the fuse for the dvd player that was installed aftermarket. some times I have to hit my dashboard to get the dash lights to work, now they dont work at all. sometimes the ride control compressor runs for no apparent reason when the car is off. I replaced the battery 3 years ago and it seemed to solve the problem until now. I replaced the battery with an optima red top yesterday and now the electrical system is going haywire. the ABS light is flashing and the service ride control light is on, the fuel gauge is bouncing back and forth from full to empty. What should I do. I am a fair mechanic but electrical is not my forte.
View 3 RepliesMy instrument panel lights are out are they hard to change ? the truck is a 1997 f-150 4x4 /4.6 liter...
View 14 RepliesI pushed the Tow/Haul button on the gear shift and my instrument cluster went DEAD. Have checked the 3 fuses labeled instrument panel (F4,F35,F41) and they look OK.
2003 F250 6L diesel .....