We have a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse with a hydraulic clutch. The pedal is very soft in the morning and requires a good bit of pumping the pedal to get good pressure. I know the system needs to be bled. Does this mean one of the cylinders is bad? I have added a little bit of fluid over the last year- maybe 2 or 3 ounces total. Right now the fluid level seems fine but it still needs to be pumped before driving.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 Saturn SL2, with a manual transmission. The clutch pedal recently gave up -- it goes to the floor with no resistance, and I can't shift. I understand that this car has a hydraulic clutch, and that the hydraulic system has failed. My mechanic says the whole transmission system should be replaced, (though he hasn't been able to look at the car 'cause it's stuck in my driveway!) Before I donate the car to charity, could the problem be anything simpler? Or is it a straight forward diagnosis?
View 11 RepliesMy clutch pedal has started squeaking every time I step on it (seems to work fine otherwise). If I hit it with WD-40, is there any risk of lubricating something that shouldn't be lubricated?
View 2 RepliesJust as the title states. When I put the AC on in the car my clutch pedal gets some play in it, enough that it messes up shifting and gets jerky. I tried searching, but no results
View 14 RepliesI started having a strange clicking sound when pushing down the clutch pedal. I have 43,000 miles on it and I have driven the clutch well(I really don't believe I already worn it up). It goes away and then it comes back. There is no problem on shifting from gear to gear, it works just fine. It is only when I push the pedal that it starts clicking like it pushing against something. The car dealership was so useless, they said I need a new clutch and that warranty does not cover it because I may have been using the clutch badly. Also do you think that they have the right to tell me it is my fault even though I have the extended warranty for 100, 000 miles.
View 6 RepliesWe were headed home the clutch pedal went soft... Ok, I thought it's either the clutch master or slave. I get it home and replace the master and after bleeding I had good pedal feel.
Great I thought, I got lucky and it was only the master. Drive it around for a bit and get on the highway and just as I was about to downshift the pedal went flat to the floor again.
Well after pumping the pedal until it had good feel again I got it home and bleed it a couple more times just to make sure I got all the air out. Drove it again. Same thing, after a little while the pedal gets soft again.
Now before I go and replace the slave is it possible I have a faulty master? Having issues after replacing the master?
I have had everything related to the clutch changed, and I even had a dealership bleed the clutch line. The problem is the clutch pedal is soft and will sometimes work good and sometimes won't. If I prop the pedal to the floor for a few hours, it works fine for the day. what gives?
View 1 RepliesI keep finding air every time i bleed my clutch. I am not losing fluid but i can not figure out whats causing my problems. The pedal is soft at first and then gets harder and it sometimes needs pumped before i change gears or to even get into gear. I am afraid its the slave but i also just may have air in the system.
View 8 RepliesJust the other day I got the clutch replaced on my 06 WRX. I took it to a reputable workshop that I've dealt with before. When I got it back the clutch pedal feels very soft and goes to the floor with ease, whereas before it was a lot harder and felt good. It works good and dosen't slip but just a soft pedal. I also went for the OEM replacement and not aftermarket. Some of the google searches I've read say the pedal will get harder after about 1000-2000 km.
View 5 RepliesI have an Imola 20th and recently i have been having some problems with my clutch. The pedal goes from being soft to very hard when its close to disengaging. It also engages very heavily when I go to let it out. This only started happening recently when temperatures started to drop if this has any effect on a clutch. Also, I replaced a shift fork two months ago and was curious if there was possibly anything going on with seals around the slave cylinder.
View 2 RepliesI changed my oem clutch in my mk4 golf 2.0l with a stage 1 ecs tuning clutch kit. Lightweight flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing. But since I have my clutch pedal has been less stiff then usual. I like my clutch pedal as stiff as possible but it just isn't I bled off the slave cylinder. When I was done no air was coming out but it is still way to soft for me. What should I do next??
View 6 RepliesI am searching for any kind of adjustment that might enable me to force the clutch level to the positive stop. It stands off about an 1/8" to 3/16" and I think is the reason I am not getting engagement in first gear, it slips heavily but fine in all other gears. The key way on the the lever prevents me from moving it a notch or two if I thought I could and don't know if that's even the answer . I can't figure out what is preventing it from returning fully on its own I can push it by and and a little fluid will squirt from the reservoir. Ive replaced the slave cylinder and bled it.
Is there any adjustment under the dash? This is a 2001 elantra that I just put a 2000 trans 5 speed.
My original plan was to pull the parts from the 2000 and replace in the 2001. I had lost 1st and 5th totally and found a 2000 that went right in with some minor mtr mnt mods. It shifts just fine except for this 1st gear thing. I saw a video and am having second thought about that move. I dont really want to pull the trans out again.
1st gear just keep slipping. new clutch kit installed when I swapped them out. It feels like a linkage thing somewhat but I cant find adjust ment to tryout.
I have a '89 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L with the AX5 transmission. I noticed over time I had to push the clutch pedal down more to make it work. I checked the hydraulic fluid reservoir and it was empty. I filled it but the pedal had no pressure. I looked at bleed the line protruding out from the clutch housing and noticed a fluid trail on it and inside the clutch housing. The rubber insulator at the opening was missing and suspect corrosion and any movement on the line cracked it where it connects inside. I am ready to junk this vehicle because it is rusted pretty bad, but thought I'd ask before I do.
View 3 RepliesIs there any mechanical adjustment on the manual shift hydraulic clutch? My clutch is not slipping but is just about all the way up on the pedal.
View 3 RepliesI put a new clutch kit in my 99 f-150 with the 4.6. It came with the clutch disk,pressure plate and throw out bearing. I got the tranny back up in but now my Hydraulic line will not connect into the slave cylinder. Its still the same one that was in it.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Mazda6 4 cyl manual transmission, purchased this past holidays. Last week the clutch disk totally wore out and the car was not moving at all... AT 68000 miles only. I am a new manual transmission driver and I think I might have been part of the problem. My mechanic, who is a family friend, has replaced already the clutch kit and he found out that the clutch disc was not only worn out but actually damaged, shattered on a side. So I got scolded by him and my father as they suggested that I damaged it by doing improper shifting. They suggested that I went from 4th or 3rd gear to 1st thus damaging the clutch disc for the car to totally stop moving.
However that's very unlikely in my opinion. I don't know if Mazda included some sort of safety feature in the transmission, but the car never let me go in 1st gear if it was already in motion, the shifter would lock if I attempted (found that out when driving in stop-and-go heavy traffic). I thought my problem was due to my foot frequently flirting with the clutch pedal in order to keep my driving and shifting smooth. In fact a few friends of mine who drove manuals in the past complimented me on my driving becoming so smooth in a short time. I also think that I bought the car with the clutch kit carrying some sort of damage on it, since in the first weeks of ownership, my practice period, I would often smell a burning odor when I was not doing things smoothly. Once I got better I never smelt the odor again until a few days before the clutch gave out.
My AC pulleys bearing froze up and broke the belt. I replaced the pulley and clutch, checked fuses and relays, all good. The clutch still wouldn't engage.I bought some AC 134A and put half a can and its still not engaging. How do I get that clutch to engage?
2002 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Ecotec engine
My eclipse never had any problems it has 137k miles on it and a couple weeks ago we got a big snow so I didn't go anywhere so the car sat in the cold for 3 days without moving I tried starting it to go to work to.
Found out I had no pressure on my clutch went all the way to the floor. I bled the clutch refilled and it worked, drove it for 2 weeks no problem. We just got another big snow let it sit again n now it is doing the same thing. My mechanic said he couldn't find any leaks but I'm thinking it has to b a master or a slave leak.
The clutch doesn't slip all the time. Sometimes when I put it in third then put the peddle to the floor, it slips for half a second then grabs. Lately noticed it in 4th and 5th gear too. When it does slip, it slips the whole trip. Then later that day it might not slip at all. At first I thought clutch was going, but when does a clutch get better? From what I remember it usually stays the same or gets worse. The fact that there's days it grabs perfect without a slip, leads me to believe something else is causing it. Maybe it's not disengaging or engaging fully.. linkage problem perhaps? I did a quick bleed, hoping it was air. Was better for a couple days after that, then started slipping again.
View 2 Replies2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4.0L, in Palo Alto, CA.
My air conditioner clutch stops engaging after driving in hot weather.
In hot weather (>80 degrees), when I first turn on the AC it blows nice and cold for up to 30 minutes, after which it gradually gets warmer and then hot air comes out. If I leave the AC on when it is blowing hot air, it will suddenly blow cold again (sometimes it takes a couple minutes for it to work again, sometimes it takes 30 minutes). Then the cycle repeats.The AC seems to be dependent on outside temperature: on very hot days ~95 degrees the AC will only work for ~5 minutes before blowing hot, 80 degree days the AC works longer, limited testing in cooler weather (at night ~60 degrees) AC always blows cold. When it is blowing hot air, the clutch on the compressor hasn’t engaged. When the AC is blowing cold, the clutch engages/disengages normally depending on how you set the temperature. I replaced the low pressure switch, did not change AC function. I recharged the AC, did not change AC function.Engine temperature reading always in normal range <210 degrees. Heater is working normally.
I’m pretty sure the clutch is getting the signals to engage. When the AC is working normally the engine revs slightly higher when AC clutch is engaged.Likewise, when the AC is blowing hot air and the clutch isn’t engaged the engine revs higher. And if I disconnect either the low or the high pressure switches the engine reduces to normal idling.
I have a 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS 2.0 DOHC Manual transmission i just replaced the clutch bled the clutch no air in lines drove around the block grinds changing gears then pulled to my driveway and the clutch got stuck and did not want to disengage so had to turn off engine to prevent from hitting the house. There is a rattle in the gear box that's pretty loud the master and slave cylinder dont have any visible leaks even n the boot for the pin that pushes the clutch fork the pin seems to only move maybe an inch and the pedal is ver soft. in fact while driving it seemed it got softer even after i bled the clutch many times still seems to be soft.
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