Eclipse - Mitsubishi :: 1998 - After Driving A Bit Get Hard Bucks Then Eventually Stalls
Oct 7, 2013
Description: after 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving I will begin to get hard bucks (misfires beyond one cylinder) and eventually stall. The car will typically turn right back over - but stall after only a minute or so. If I leave the car off for around 15 minutes it will run fine for a while and then stall out again.
It sounds as if the car is running out of fuel which it is not. The pump remains primed and the pressure is normal.
What I've done so far:
Fuel pump has been swapped
Fuel filter has been replaced
Fuel lines have been verified (even cleaned to rail - injector heads and intake manifold... It's been a fun weekend)
Fuel pump relay has been replaced
I have also recently replaced the ignition coil due to an unrelated issue for which I will provide detail so that you too can rule this out. I had random multiple misfires in bank 3 - replaced the coil and the misfires were gone. When the problem came back I was suspect of the new coil and originally believed that this had failed at temp. This coil has been tested hot and cold and passed each way. I also swapped out for the coil with the issue on bank 3 just to verify.
I have read in a few forums which point towards either the ASD relay (which I was also suspect of early in the process of elimination) itself failing when heated or the camshaft position sensor and or the crankshaft position sensor causing the relay to trip when they are heated.
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My wife has a Mitsubishi 91 Eclipse with an with a 1.8 liter engine and automatic that periodically bucks and surges, especially noticeable under load like going uphill but can occur during straight line highway driving. After doing a complete tuneup, changing the throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, having both the ecu and tcu rebuilt, check all vacuum lines, replaced ignition wires, replaced fuel pressure regulator and checking fuel pressure, replaced injectors,checking all electrical sensors and connections, etc. etc. I, nor professional mechanics, cannot determine what may be causing this condition. At this point I'm thinking either the fuel tank needs removal and cleaning or its the fuel pump, coil, ignition switch, or torque converter. Here's a clue... I'm finding an oily substance on the pavement that appears to be coming from the transmission area. It doesn't appear to be ATF nor oil. I'm suspecting the torque converter is leaking.
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We will start with the history. I recently purchased this car knowing of a long list of issues which have been worked out for the most part. The related piece would be random misfires which I believed were based on a faulty Ignition Coil (common on this 420a [2.0 NA] motor.) I have replace the coil but the issue persists.
Now what is happening is after about 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving the fuel pump will overheat and the car will stall. I can get it to turn back over most of the time but it will stall out if attempting to drive. I have to leave it sitting for about 15 minutes to be able to move it.
What codes am I getting from the CEL? Nothing. (No CEL)What have I tried so far? - Fuel pump has been replaced- Fuel filter has been replaced- Fuel lines have been verified (no noticeable leaks, unwanted bends, pinches or breaks)(I also verified that this is not an issue with the PCV valve or EGR [electric in this car] valve)
I know... I thought relay or wiring also - but all lines and the relay are cool to the touch so they are not overheating. 1998 Eclipse GS....
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I recently noticed my car is leaking its motor oil into the radiator. There is no water in the motor oil and the transmission oil is at it's appropriate level and such.
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I have a 98 Eclipse (non-turbo) with 221,000 miles. Head gasket blew out on me this morning. Lost water, but stopped before temp went too high. Bought water to put in to make it to work.
Question: What are your opinions on the "Quick Fix" head gasket repair liquids I see advertized? Two that come to mind are Blue Devil and Steel Seal. I am cash strapped and several hundred dollars are not in my future.
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In the last two weeks a noise has developed in my 2003 Mitsu. Eclipse. Whenever I turn, there is a very noticeable creaking noise that sounds like it originates from the front right side. The only other time I experienced a sound like this was when there was a rock stuck in a suspension coil (not this time though). What it could be? It also happens occasionally while driving, more so on rougher roads. This leads me to believe that it has something to do with... suspension? I may be completely wrong though.
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My son had the starter replaced on his 97 Eclipse a couple of months ago and ever since then it seems to be more difficult to start if it has been sitting for a few hours or more. It cranks for 5 or 10 seconds before it catches. If the car is warm or has only sat for an hour or two it starts fine. The battery has been tested and is fine. The fuel filter was replaced about 30k miles ago. He also thinks he has one injector that is performing below par. It idles a tad rough. A friend said to clean or change the air filter and change the fuel filter. He had injector cleaner put in it the other day but that has not solved the starting issue at all yet. Don't know if the injector issue is causing the poor starting or not.
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My car has over 120,000 miles, runs great, oil changes every 3-5K. Love this car! Last month before I took it to the car wash to hand wash (can't go through auto with the soft top), always careful not to use high power around the windows, but this time I tried the "hot wax". The next time that we had a very hard rain, I noticed water dripping into the car from the top of the windows right around were the rubber seams meet.
I thought, ok, maybe it's because it was such a hard rain. However... when ever it rains more than a very light rain, water is getting in from the same place on both sides of the car. What can I do to stop the leak? I'm hoping that I don't have to replace the whole top, nothing else is wrong and I don't see a leak anywhere else.
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My daughter drives a 2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse. About 6 months ago, she noticed that occasionally when driving over a bump in the road her brakes lose pressure. The pedal goes nearly to the floor and the car is harder to stop. After a few days/weeks, the brakes return to normal. I was skeptical at first, but drove the car after one such incident and confirmed the lack of pressure. However, a Mitsubishi dealership couldn't find anything wrong with the brakes while a specialty brake shop wanted to replace the master cylinder.
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2001, 5-speed, 6 cylinder, 140K miles. Under acceleration, it feels and sounds like I'm driving over road warning strips. While coasting, it goes away. The CVJ's and wheel bearings appear to be OK. Could it be the final drive? It happens in all the gears.
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My 2002 CR-V has 126,000 miles. For the last year I have brought my vehicle to the mechanic numerous times because it clicks (sounds from the passenger side dash board) bucks, and stalls while driving, especially if it has been sitting in the sun, causing the check engine light to eventually turn on. When checked by the mechanic it doesn't give a code. It seems to be electrical in nature because in the winter, even though it is significantly less of a problem, my new batteries seem to drain overnight. We have replaced both PCM relays, the air/fuel sensor, and the ignition switch. The problem remains almost unchanged. While highway driving I often have to switch gears because I will suddenly lose all power and could floor the accelerator to no avail. If I am sitting at a light, the vehicle will usually stall if I have to wait too long.
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This winter I plan to drive across country from California to Florida in my 2001 Mitsubishi eclipse, unfortunately it’s AC it out and the mechanics said it was the blower and possibly other things and it would coast at least 800 dollars. As I drive across the country in the winter I do not want my car the fog up and would like to keep my windows rolled down to keep air circulation going but if it’s going to be raining that option is out. I’ve searched many different sites online to find a side window deflector but it seems that there isn’t any for that year. If AC repair is out of the question, and a side window deflector doesn’t seem to exist for this model does.
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My eclipse never had any problems it has 137k miles on it and a couple weeks ago we got a big snow so I didn't go anywhere so the car sat in the cold for 3 days without moving I tried starting it to go to work to.
Found out I had no pressure on my clutch went all the way to the floor. I bled the clutch refilled and it worked, drove it for 2 weeks no problem. We just got another big snow let it sit again n now it is doing the same thing. My mechanic said he couldn't find any leaks but I'm thinking it has to b a master or a slave leak.
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I am thinking of buying a car but can't decide between a 2003 Nissan 350Z with 87000 miles on it, or a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse with 57000 miles on it. It will be a commuter car for me. I don't know a lot about Mitsubishis.
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I have a 99 Eclipse which is pretty low... I guess while driving I had scraped the oil pan on something but didn't think anything of it until my car was sitting and i noticed loss of oil. It doesn't leak when the car is idling, but as soon as the engine is off, i see a thin stream of oil pouring out. My question is, is there anything i can seal the hole with so i do not immediately need to replace the entire pan?
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I have a 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse. When I start my car, it will only go through second gear. If I stop, turn the car off and back on, It will go through the gears and I can drive normally. I am now just putting the car in neutral while driving, turning it off and on again and it will shift like normal. Otherwise, it just stays in the lower gear. This has been steadily getting worse meaning, I would only have to stop and start the car once on a trip and now it is whenever I slow down to a lower gear. Every now and then it will jerk also. I thought it was a transmission issue but the transmission worked fine most of the time when this started and still does except when I slow down. The interesting thing is that it works fine when I turn the engine off and on again so I was thinking something else. The guy from advanced auto said it was possibly a power issue with something that makes the transmission shift and the transmission guy said it was electrical.
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My son has a 2000 Eclipse which is making a horrible noise. Some say it is the lifters, some say it is a rod. Sounds like an airplane engine. The oil was not that low, maybe two quarts when we checked. He wants to sell it for 2000.00. Do you think it could be repaired and then sold? Do they have a problem common with this sound?
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I have 2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse with ~105K miles on it. I bought it 3 months ago. It has a strange problem. The RPM starts to drop, whenever I stop at signals or stop signs, or stop for any other reason. It comes back to normal when I turn off the fan. I am not sure what is going on.
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A few weeks ago my '03 Mitsubishi Eclipse missed for the first time since I've had it. It's a 4-banger, so it was definitely noticeable. Fast forward a couple weeks and after a trip to Texas (from Tennessee), it begins to run between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM on start-up. There is a lack of power (not attributed to the small engine size) that was not present until a short time ago. It stopped doing that, and today a service engine light came on. The code was P0134. Some things about the car- the oil is changed religiously every 3-4 thousand miles, and the only major repairs were several years ago- the clutch and head gasket. Spark plugs are 2 years old, and coil packs were checked out around then as well.
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My 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse will continue running when the key switch is shut off and the key is actually removed. This occurs intermittently and the dealer can not give me a cause for it!?
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I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse, It will shake vigorously when it is in gear with my foot on the brake,(say at a stop light). But as soon as i let off of the brake and press on the gas the shaking completely stops. But as soon as I stop again it starts to shake again.
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