Eclipse - Mitsubishi :: 1998 - After About 20 - 30 Minutes Of Driving Fuel Pump Overheat And Car Will Stall
Oct 5, 2013
We will start with the history. I recently purchased this car knowing of a long list of issues which have been worked out for the most part. The related piece would be random misfires which I believed were based on a faulty Ignition Coil (common on this 420a [2.0 NA] motor.) I have replace the coil but the issue persists.
Now what is happening is after about 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving the fuel pump will overheat and the car will stall. I can get it to turn back over most of the time but it will stall out if attempting to drive. I have to leave it sitting for about 15 minutes to be able to move it.
What codes am I getting from the CEL? Nothing. (No CEL)What have I tried so far? - Fuel pump has been replaced- Fuel filter has been replaced- Fuel lines have been verified (no noticeable leaks, unwanted bends, pinches or breaks)(I also verified that this is not an issue with the PCV valve or EGR [electric in this car] valve)
I know... I thought relay or wiring also - but all lines and the relay are cool to the touch so they are not overheating. 1998 Eclipse GS....
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Description: after 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving I will begin to get hard bucks (misfires beyond one cylinder) and eventually stall. The car will typically turn right back over - but stall after only a minute or so. If I leave the car off for around 15 minutes it will run fine for a while and then stall out again.
It sounds as if the car is running out of fuel which it is not. The pump remains primed and the pressure is normal.
What I've done so far:
Fuel pump has been swapped
Fuel filter has been replaced
Fuel lines have been verified (even cleaned to rail - injector heads and intake manifold... It's been a fun weekend)
Fuel pump relay has been replaced
I have also recently replaced the ignition coil due to an unrelated issue for which I will provide detail so that you too can rule this out. I had random multiple misfires in bank 3 - replaced the coil and the misfires were gone. When the problem came back I was suspect of the new coil and originally believed that this had failed at temp. This coil has been tested hot and cold and passed each way. I also swapped out for the coil with the issue on bank 3 just to verify.
I have read in a few forums which point towards either the ASD relay (which I was also suspect of early in the process of elimination) itself failing when heated or the camshaft position sensor and or the crankshaft position sensor causing the relay to trip when they are heated.
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Question: What are your opinions on the "Quick Fix" head gasket repair liquids I see advertized? Two that come to mind are Blue Devil and Steel Seal. I am cash strapped and several hundred dollars are not in my future.
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I have just replaced a fuel pump on my 98 neon and it started up and then shut off after about 5 minutes. there is electricity running to the pump just not kicking it over what could be the problem
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My daughter drives a 2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse. About 6 months ago, she noticed that occasionally when driving over a bump in the road her brakes lose pressure. The pedal goes nearly to the floor and the car is harder to stop. After a few days/weeks, the brakes return to normal. I was skeptical at first, but drove the car after one such incident and confirmed the lack of pressure. However, a Mitsubishi dealership couldn't find anything wrong with the brakes while a specialty brake shop wanted to replace the master cylinder.
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2001, 5-speed, 6 cylinder, 140K miles. Under acceleration, it feels and sounds like I'm driving over road warning strips. While coasting, it goes away. The CVJ's and wheel bearings appear to be OK. Could it be the final drive? It happens in all the gears.
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My 88 "Rosie" has been having problems for months. It hesitates, stalls, and sometimes backfires. This is an intermittent problem, though it is happening more often lately. I took it to local auto shop and their computer showed Rosie was throwing a misfire code as well as a lean code. I took it 3 months ago, and I took it last week, got the same codes. The lean code led me to check the fuel pressure. I did and while it should be healthy 48-55 psi, I got 48 for awhile then 15 PSI! Now I'm thinking fuel delivery. I started with the filter. Sure enough it was dirty. Weeks later, the problem persists. I replaced the fuel regulator (ok, mostly because it was cheaper than the replacing the fuel pump, which I really didn't want to have to do.) Still, no luck, so I finally caved and spent $200 and 12 hrs dropping the tank to replace the fuel pump. Guess, what? Still no dice. I'm still getting the hesitation and the misfiring. I haven't put the fuel pressure tester back on it (been busy) so I don't know if the pressure is still low or if these other things are even related. I thought my logic was infallible. Let's face it, there's a finite number of parts that control fuel pressure. I'm running out of parts to replace. Where did I go wrong? The only thing I can think of that could still do it is perhaps the fuel pump relay? I dunno. Would it work off and on or fail completely? I'd love to get some opinions on this.
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I'm really bad with cars but I'll try to be as specific as possible.
Car: 2002 VW Jetta
Basically the car will just stall out of nowhere while driving (not stopped at a light), I would say usually about 10-20 minutes after I started driving. After this, when I try to start it, it makes that noise like it is trying to start but the actual ignition doesn't happen. it usually takes me about 15 minutes to start it up again.
In addition to this, when driving, the RPM seems to randomly drop off often, and the car also jerks frequently, especially when I press on the pedal quickly.
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I have been to 3 mechanics including the dealer and no one can re-create my problem. While driving on the expressway at speeds of 60-70 mph after about 20 minutes the car will start to bog down and then stall. It will start right back up but then you can only go a mile or less and it will do it again. It has to sit for 20-30 minutes before it will go a longer distance. This is a daily event since we drive the car to work on the expressway and, of course, it takes 30 minutes to get there. What I have done: replaced the ignition coils (no change) replaced the fuel pump/filter (no change) replaced the throttle body (this fixed the problem for about a month or two. I had to buy a used throttle body because I could not find a new one) In any case if the problem is the throttle body what is making it go bad?
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I have a 1988 Omni, so a 2.2 non-turbo with TBI. Within the first 10 minutes of driving, regardless of the amount of fuel in the tank, the engine will stall out. Throttle position does not matter - it stalls the same way under full throttle as it does idling. It always starts back up on the 2nd or 3rd try immediately after stalling, and runs perfectly. When it stalls, it's as if someone actually shut the ignition switch off - the motor completely shuts off without sputtering or running rough. All of the other electronics seem to be unaffected (for example, the radio and lights still work during the motor drama).
It may do this 3 or 4 times in the course of 5 minutes. After the engine is up to operating temp, the problem disappears entirely and only resurfaces whenever the car has had a chance to cool back off.
I thought it was the coil, but replaced that with no effect. I also recently did plugs and wires (2 months ago, long before this issue surfaces). I just remove the air intake assembly and watched the fuel injector. It ran perfectly normally for about 10 minutes again and then I saw the injector suddenly stop spraying, and the engine stalled instantly. The injector seemed to be working fine before the stall and worked fine again after I restarted. No weird noises or anything.
What this could be? ECU, maybe? Something specific in the throttle body assembly or fuel system? The little car is in great shape otherwise, and I drive it 100 miles every day to work and back to keep miles down on the newer thirstier car.
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All of the lights that show up when starting the car are coming on when I am driving. After about 5 minutes of driving, it is hard to accelerate and the car seems to stall (like I am trying to change gears - it is automatic). The first time it happened, I took the car to a repair shop and they told me I had a leaking hose and needed a new alternator. I had them change the hose and took the car to my usual mechanic. After two days of driving my car, he could not reproduce the problem and said he didn't think the alternator needed to be changed. I started driving the car today and it happened again. When I got home and turned the car off, it would not restart.
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My eclipse never had any problems it has 137k miles on it and a couple weeks ago we got a big snow so I didn't go anywhere so the car sat in the cold for 3 days without moving I tried starting it to go to work to.
Found out I had no pressure on my clutch went all the way to the floor. I bled the clutch refilled and it worked, drove it for 2 weeks no problem. We just got another big snow let it sit again n now it is doing the same thing. My mechanic said he couldn't find any leaks but I'm thinking it has to b a master or a slave leak.
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I am thinking of buying a car but can't decide between a 2003 Nissan 350Z with 87000 miles on it, or a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse with 57000 miles on it. It will be a commuter car for me. I don't know a lot about Mitsubishis.
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I have a 99 Eclipse which is pretty low... I guess while driving I had scraped the oil pan on something but didn't think anything of it until my car was sitting and i noticed loss of oil. It doesn't leak when the car is idling, but as soon as the engine is off, i see a thin stream of oil pouring out. My question is, is there anything i can seal the hole with so i do not immediately need to replace the entire pan?
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Ok so I have a 2004 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport AWD. It has started to over heat only when stopped at a stop light and only when the A/C is on. It will red line and as soon as I start to drive the gauge will drop back to normal. Then as soon as I stop again it will red line. But when I turn the A/C off it will fall back down to 3/4 over heat and drop immediately as I start driving. I notice that the A/C will go from ice cold to blowing hot air when it starts to over heat. I took it to the shop and they did a pressure test on the cooling system and it didn't do it again and the shop said that they couldn't find anything wrong with the car. It didn't do it for about 2 weeks and just now it started back again!!!!!!
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I have a 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse. When I start my car, it will only go through second gear. If I stop, turn the car off and back on, It will go through the gears and I can drive normally. I am now just putting the car in neutral while driving, turning it off and on again and it will shift like normal. Otherwise, it just stays in the lower gear. This has been steadily getting worse meaning, I would only have to stop and start the car once on a trip and now it is whenever I slow down to a lower gear. Every now and then it will jerk also. I thought it was a transmission issue but the transmission worked fine most of the time when this started and still does except when I slow down. The interesting thing is that it works fine when I turn the engine off and on again so I was thinking something else. The guy from advanced auto said it was possibly a power issue with something that makes the transmission shift and the transmission guy said it was electrical.
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My son has a 2000 Eclipse which is making a horrible noise. Some say it is the lifters, some say it is a rod. Sounds like an airplane engine. The oil was not that low, maybe two quarts when we checked. He wants to sell it for 2000.00. Do you think it could be repaired and then sold? Do they have a problem common with this sound?
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I have 2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse with ~105K miles on it. I bought it 3 months ago. It has a strange problem. The RPM starts to drop, whenever I stop at signals or stop signs, or stop for any other reason. It comes back to normal when I turn off the fan. I am not sure what is going on.
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