Driving - Eclipse - Mitsubishi - Steering - Suspension :: Creaking Noise Occasionally While Driving
Feb 4, 2011
In the last two weeks a noise has developed in my 2003 Mitsu. Eclipse. Whenever I turn, there is a very noticeable creaking noise that sounds like it originates from the front right side. The only other time I experienced a sound like this was when there was a rock stuck in a suspension coil (not this time though). What it could be? It also happens occasionally while driving, more so on rougher roads. This leads me to believe that it has something to do with... suspension? I may be completely wrong though.
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My daughter drives a 2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse. About 6 months ago, she noticed that occasionally when driving over a bump in the road her brakes lose pressure. The pedal goes nearly to the floor and the car is harder to stop. After a few days/weeks, the brakes return to normal. I was skeptical at first, but drove the car after one such incident and confirmed the lack of pressure. However, a Mitsubishi dealership couldn't find anything wrong with the brakes while a specialty brake shop wanted to replace the master cylinder.
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Ever since I had a tire blow out on the highway almost 4 months ago, I have noticed there is a creaking noise that comes from underneath the car at times. Kind of sounds like a ship creaking or something. Tried to get the mechanic to listen to it,he drove the car around the block but all heard was the convertible top hooks rattling. But my girlfriend heard it the other night and she said that wasnt normal and I need to bet it checked out.
Could it just need to be "lubed" I figure those placed like jiffy lube must offer that service for some reason. The mechanic said no. I had a car that the axle broke while I was driving it down the street... I was going really slow at the time. Anyway, what could be making that noise? its a 2003 mitsubishi spyder eclipse convertible with 80,000 miles on it. I am always worrying over this dang noise.
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I've been getting a lot of noise out of my rack and pinion in my 03 Eclipse. What would cause this noise? It happens when I'm sitting still, driving straight, or turning. It has gotten worse as the weather has gotten warmer. All fluid levels are good.
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Description: after 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving I will begin to get hard bucks (misfires beyond one cylinder) and eventually stall. The car will typically turn right back over - but stall after only a minute or so. If I leave the car off for around 15 minutes it will run fine for a while and then stall out again.
It sounds as if the car is running out of fuel which it is not. The pump remains primed and the pressure is normal.
What I've done so far:
Fuel pump has been swapped
Fuel filter has been replaced
Fuel lines have been verified (even cleaned to rail - injector heads and intake manifold... It's been a fun weekend)
Fuel pump relay has been replaced
I have also recently replaced the ignition coil due to an unrelated issue for which I will provide detail so that you too can rule this out. I had random multiple misfires in bank 3 - replaced the coil and the misfires were gone. When the problem came back I was suspect of the new coil and originally believed that this had failed at temp. This coil has been tested hot and cold and passed each way. I also swapped out for the coil with the issue on bank 3 just to verify.
I have read in a few forums which point towards either the ASD relay (which I was also suspect of early in the process of elimination) itself failing when heated or the camshaft position sensor and or the crankshaft position sensor causing the relay to trip when they are heated.
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We will start with the history. I recently purchased this car knowing of a long list of issues which have been worked out for the most part. The related piece would be random misfires which I believed were based on a faulty Ignition Coil (common on this 420a [2.0 NA] motor.) I have replace the coil but the issue persists.
Now what is happening is after about 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving the fuel pump will overheat and the car will stall. I can get it to turn back over most of the time but it will stall out if attempting to drive. I have to leave it sitting for about 15 minutes to be able to move it.
What codes am I getting from the CEL? Nothing. (No CEL)What have I tried so far? - Fuel pump has been replaced- Fuel filter has been replaced- Fuel lines have been verified (no noticeable leaks, unwanted bends, pinches or breaks)(I also verified that this is not an issue with the PCV valve or EGR [electric in this car] valve)
I know... I thought relay or wiring also - but all lines and the relay are cool to the touch so they are not overheating. 1998 Eclipse GS....
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2001, 5-speed, 6 cylinder, 140K miles. Under acceleration, it feels and sounds like I'm driving over road warning strips. While coasting, it goes away. The CVJ's and wheel bearings appear to be OK. Could it be the final drive? It happens in all the gears.
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My son called me today and said his power steering belt went bad. He says it had been making noise for a while- at least that is what he thinks the noise is- a kind of high whining sound when you first start the car? I don't know if that makes any sense or not. He also said that today not only does his power steering not work, the car is now acting strangely electrically speaking. The speedometer and the radio have stopped working completely. Is any of this related? I am completely clueless about electrical problems- other than the possibility of some blown fuses or a wire that shorted out. The car is a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder. He is out of town at school I don't have the luxury of looking at it myself to troubleshoot or give any more particulars.
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About 3 weeks ago, I noticed the SUV would occasional make a loud "CLICK" sound in the front steering area, usually if I made a fast turn motion (either left or right).
So today I put it up on a ramp and took a look and it's obvious there's a part in there that is coming loose. I don't know what the names of the stuff is in there, so I'm posting a photo with arrows & letters so people can tell me what's what, and also what to do.
I tried putting a vise grip on it and tightening it with a ratchet wrench on the top part (16mm), but the lower nut just spins. I decided to not go any further because I really don't know what that assembly is, what it does, if it's broke, etc.
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I charged my AC a few weeks ago. After I added oil it began to make noise. Like metal on metal or a bad bearing. Could be the clutch pulley, bad bearing from what I've read. I don't want to replace it, nor do I want to spend the time and money putting in a bypass pully. I'd like to simply bypass the AC compressor by putting a shorter belt on. Problem is I can't seem to find any clear info on how and what size belt to use. I see a few saying it can be done and one saying it can't. Also, is the 2.4 the same as the 3.0 in regards to the belt diagram?I need to fix this asap, before it seizes up and I lose the belt or damage other stuff.
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I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 FWD. about 138, xxx miles
My left rear tire/wheel has free - play (clicking movement) when grabbed at ONLY the 3 o'clock position and push/pulled back and forth (no free-play at 12-6 direction) in the air.
I had grinding noise from rear left side wheel when turning right couple weeks ago. After replacing wheel hub bearing assembly, the noise is gone. But still remains the movement ONLY at 3 o'clock. I replaced stabilizer bar links in both rear sides. This link doesn't look like the reason of free-play (clicking movement).
Also, I tested (push or pull) after switching the other side(right) wheel, it still had clicking movement at 3 pm. Therefore, it is not a wheel problem itself, I guess.
And I took off the wheel and fasten the lug nuts onto the rotor itself (so, without wheel in this case), then push/pull the rotor at 3 pm, but this time no movement in any directions. @@;; weird.. ONLY, I can feel the clicking movement at 3pm on the Wheel (or tire) even after rotating wheel, exactly in same spot (3 pm) movement~!!!! What's this case??
All 4 wheels aligned recently after got new tires.
I scrutinized inside wheel while pushing/pulling back and forth. But I cannot figure out which one is problem.
1. Knuckle.
2. Lower control arm ( or Rear rear control arm, not typo) which has a Ball joint and a cam bolt the other side.
3. Rear front control arm
4. trailing arm.
5. stabilizer bar link. (new)
6. Wheel hub bearing assembly (new, double-checked the nuts and torques)
7. Rotor and pads (new, if I push the rotor itself then no wobble or clicking at all directions as desribed above)
Where should I direct my attention and/or what component(s) should I look at given the indications above?
When I pull/push the wheel at 3 o'clock, it feels like wiggling the whole part of lower knuckle where is the connection part between the part of 4 bolt (backside) of hub assembly and lower side of knuckle.
I heard that 12 and 6 is usually an indication of ball joint, and play 9 and 3 is usually in indication of steering components ( tie rods , steering shaft or rack itself ), and all around play is an indication of wheel bearing (usually accompanied with a growling noise ).
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Mostly when I am driving slow, like pulling out of my driveway, i notice this creak type noise coming from the front left part of the car.. Mainly when the wheel is turning and I am straightening the car out in the road from reverse.. I'll also hear it when i pull up to a stop sign and am making a right or left hand turn, but the more i turn the wheel and accelerate, the less i hear it, and vice versa.. Axle problem?
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I was wondering if the wind noise problem and the door creaking are both problems resulting from the doors on the 2-door models? I only ask because I'm about to go in for my 3-month courtesy check and wanted to get it checked out.
My doors creak a lot and it really annoys me when I drive at low speeds with the radio off. The wind noise isn't that big but I do notice that there is a lot of wind noise coming from my sunroof rather than my windows/door.
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About a week ago I went over a dip in the road at about the speed limit and didn't realize how bad it was. Since then my rear end has been making a creaking/squeeking noise while driving or pushing on the car side to side. The struts seem to be ok, there is no bounce in the car. What this could be? I was thinking some sort of bushing somewhere?
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This winter I plan to drive across country from California to Florida in my 2001 Mitsubishi eclipse, unfortunately it’s AC it out and the mechanics said it was the blower and possibly other things and it would coast at least 800 dollars. As I drive across the country in the winter I do not want my car the fog up and would like to keep my windows rolled down to keep air circulation going but if it’s going to be raining that option is out. I’ve searched many different sites online to find a side window deflector but it seems that there isn’t any for that year. If AC repair is out of the question, and a side window deflector doesn’t seem to exist for this model does.
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My eclipse never had any problems it has 137k miles on it and a couple weeks ago we got a big snow so I didn't go anywhere so the car sat in the cold for 3 days without moving I tried starting it to go to work to.
Found out I had no pressure on my clutch went all the way to the floor. I bled the clutch refilled and it worked, drove it for 2 weeks no problem. We just got another big snow let it sit again n now it is doing the same thing. My mechanic said he couldn't find any leaks but I'm thinking it has to b a master or a slave leak.
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I am thinking of buying a car but can't decide between a 2003 Nissan 350Z with 87000 miles on it, or a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse with 57000 miles on it. It will be a commuter car for me. I don't know a lot about Mitsubishis.
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I recently noticed my car is leaking its motor oil into the radiator. There is no water in the motor oil and the transmission oil is at it's appropriate level and such.
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I have a 99 Eclipse which is pretty low... I guess while driving I had scraped the oil pan on something but didn't think anything of it until my car was sitting and i noticed loss of oil. It doesn't leak when the car is idling, but as soon as the engine is off, i see a thin stream of oil pouring out. My question is, is there anything i can seal the hole with so i do not immediately need to replace the entire pan?
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My 2009 LS460 AWD with air suspension now, at 56,000 miles, has this noise frequently during driving and sometimes at idle.
Like an air compressor for a few seconds. It's not loud, but you definitely hear the whine/air type noise. It's almost not even bothersome for me as I've gotten used to it. But when my wife or others are in the car they always ask "what is that"
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My V8 had extensive suspension work done this week. All the front suspension bushings were replaced including the sway bar links. In addition, the air suspension- all four corners were replaced and the tie rods were also replaced.
The reason all the bushings were replaced was suspension noise and the fact that the car would wear the front tires unevenly even after new tires and alignment. The assumption was that the worn out bushings at 64k miles where the reason for the uneven wear of the front tires.
After all this work, I received the car yesterday and the car has more suspension noises than it had before all the work was done.....
When I drive over a speed bump, at slow speeds, I can hear loud squeak noises. Even driving the car out of my garage this morning, I could hear the groaning noises from the front suspension.
I will be taking the car back to the dealer after the holidays so they can check it out. Are these noises normal due to the new bushings settling or something..
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