Doors - Chevrolet - Blazer :: Alternately Blowing Hot Then Cold With Creaking Noise During Transitions
Oct 20, 2011
Auto facts: 2000 Blazer, Mileage: 196,000 Engine: V6, 4.3L Transmission: Automatic Drivetrain: 4WD, Single climate control
Recently had my AC compressor assembly replaced, renewed accumulator/receiver drier, orifice tube, recharge, etc. The AC was cooling well below par after the repairs. Then is started alternately blowing hot (12 sec), cool (3 sec), etc. with a "spooky" creaking noise coming from within the middle dash during each transition (blend door?).
The mechanic charged the system again and agrees there is a refrigerant leak "somewhere" to account for the marginal cooling capability but the dye put into the system before the repair is not showing up anywhere that he can see (so far, having it checked again today). So, are these 2 separate issues? What are the steps of diagnosis and repair possibilities?
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Think i have an exhaust leak in a 1999 s10 blazer lt 4x4 4 door. the loudest spot where i can hear the exhaust noise at cold start and idle, is the passenger side right behind the front tire. on cold mornings where you can see the exhaust smoke prior to warming up i cannot see anything coming from this area. non mechanic types have suggested either the y pipe, or where the y pipe meets the header. Would both have to be replaced to fix this problem if this is the case? and how intensive is this to fix? meaning would the whole motor have to be pulled to remove the entire exhaust piping to have it brazed? my dad is a mechanic, so the tools I've got and his know-how, just need to know what to do? Any definitive way to tell where an exhaust leak is, beyond having a friend cup their hand over the tail pipe, while they look for it..
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The door molding has come loose at the front corners of both my doors on my 2002 S-10 pickup. I tried weldwood contact cement (the kind you use on laminating Formica counter tops), but it only lasted a couple of days. I put a spot of super glue on it to see if that might work. It looks promising but that little spot that I tried was not enough surface area to hold it for more than a day. I don't want to ruin the trim by super gluing the whole thing if it won't work. How to do this? The trim seems fine otherwise. It is not cracking or anything like that. I think super glue would hold it if I glued the entire length of about a foot or so. Also the driver side door seems to be a bit out of line an eighth of inch or so at the front corner. It does not appear to be adjustable. It has never been in an accident. It does not seem to be leaking into the cab yet with the door closed.
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Around 8 months ago my blower fan started intermittently blowing and eventually quit. The chain shop near my house told me no question it was the blower motor gone bad. Last night I replaced the blower motor (pretty cheap part) and still nothing. I can feel the engine change idle when I turn the cooler on but nothing blows. My regular mechanic told me he thought it was the resistor based on my description (though I had assumed with a resistor issue it would tend to blow on low speed but not high and this blows never). What it could be?
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Around 8 months ago my blower fan started intermittently blowing and eventually quit. The chain shop near my house told me no question it was the blower motor gone bad. Last night I replaced the blower motor (pretty cheap part) and still nothing. I can feel the engine change idle when I turn the cooler on but nothing blows. My regular mechanic told me he thought it was the resistor based on my description (though I had assumed with a resistor issue it would tend to blow on high speed but not low and this blows never).
The diagnostic fee if it isn't the resistor is $60 an hour so I have a feeling it will be cheaper to just swap out all the parts. I have a feeling it is the relay but I am worried that since I can tell the engine changes idle when I turn the AC on it isn't, though I do not know for sure. Also if it is the relay there are three relays against the firewall and I am not sure which it is as the cases on them all appear to the untrained eye to be identical. Included is a picture. Which relay is the blower relay.
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'91 Blazer, S10, 2wd, 300,000 mi ....when weather cold, and car cold, I hear a loud slapping sound that I thought was a fan belt, but checked and they are ok...when car warms up, or when weather warm, I don't hear the slapping..... sounds like belt against plastic,,,,???
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My 1976 Chevy Blazer K5, runs and drives excellent. But when I take it up into the mountains 4 wheeling, there is a problem. Any time that one or the other of the front tires goes up on a hill and there is any twist to the frame, I get this constant grinding noise. If I stop and put it in park, it still grinds and wont stop until the front tires on the same plane. What could this be?
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My 4WD light does not come on but the warning light to service it does which leads me to believe the 2WD is not engaged. I have a 2001 Chevy Blazer. Also the seems to be a "rubbing" noise emanating from the right from while driving.
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1997 chevy balzer 4.3 6cyc. Oil pressure drop from 40 to 10 and making a knocking sound no loss in power. About 3 weeks ago had oil change and new oil lines and gaskets put on because i had some leaks no noise or problems then just was losing oil then this happened first of all does this sound like a main bearing gave away second should i go back to where i had this work done and complain could they have done something to cause this they are very good and honest mechanics and a reliable auto repair mechanic company the blazer has 180,000 miles or do you think it just because of the mileage it was bound to happen i hate to blame something on someone if was just a coincidence but does this sound like the main bearing?
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2000 Blazer 4wd, automatic, 122000 miles
In the last couple of weeks, if the Blazer isn't driven for 3 or more days, there is a slight knocking noise for 15 to 20 seconds after start up. Oil level and pressure are fine. I'm guessing it's the lifters.....
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I "think" I may have a bad wheel bearing. Problem is, which one is it? The code reader I own does not read for ABS. The noise appears around 30 mph. It increased slightly, at higher speeds. I tried jacking each side of the truck up and checking for play and noise. There is no play. The only thing I can say is that the passenger side wheel seems heavy to spin. But spins.
The drivers side wheel spins slightly more free, but has a faint sound like the brake shoe is touching the rotor. I drove it and tried turning left and right. The noise does not seem to get worse or better when turning either direction. I called my local Auto Zone, and they only told me to do what I have already done. So I am at a loss. What else can I do? My Blazer is a 2000, 4X4, Automatic.
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Immediately after I had four new tires installed on a 2000 Blazer 4wd, the front wheel bearings started making noise. At the time I thought the noise was from the new tires. A few thousand miles later my mechanic told me I needed two reman hub assemblies (sealed bearings) for ~$350 apiece plus labor.
Is there anything that the tire shop (independent not chain) could have done (accidentally or otherwise) to damage the bearings during the tire installation? I have to get 4 tires for my 93 Chevrolet Caprice and don't wish to repeat the experience.
Whoops, forgot to mention this happened at 56k miles when the truck was five years old. Is it possible that the bearings were borderline and the process of mounting the wheels put them over the edge? For instance, someone being a little over enthusiastic with an impact wrench.
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Truck has heat when driving but when stopped blows cold air. Replaced thermostat. still blows cold when stopped.
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I have a weird problem with the A/C on my 93 S10. It will start blowing warm air but if I accelerate real hard it will start blowing cold again.
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My belt was making a screaming squeaky noise to wake up the dead. I used dish soap on it and it got quiet as long as I remember to bring the dish soap. My mechanic looked at my AC and told me I need a new compressor (he is a friend I trust) Now the AC comp turns but the belt seems to go on and off. And, the weird thing is-the AC feels great! Am I to expect any moment for it to just stop working? So, what to expect from my dead or dying compressor?
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I have a 1986 Monte Carlo SS with 305 HO engine. Recently when driving along suddenly I have hot air blowing out of the vents, then in a few minutes it goes back to the cool air. This happens whether it is set to vent or air conditioner. How can I fix it??
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Vehicle - 2005 Suburban LS, 5.3L V8; manual slide temp controls, separate controls for driver and passenger sides.Issue - In winter drive side vents will suddenly switch from blowing hot air to cold air. Just the opposite happens in the summer with drive side vents suddenly switching for blowing cold air to hot. Interestingly the passenger side vents operate normally. Sometimes if I stop and restart the vehicle the system will start working properly again but this does not always work.
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I am getting a terrible creaking noise when the car is cold after sitting all night . I've tried to isolate the area where the noise is coming from, but it varies from side to side. I have shot all movable parts with PB Blaster and it appears to work somewhat . I never noticed it until the cold weather. Where to look maybe engine cradle mount areas? 2010 Sonata 2.4 GLS
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My 08 Prius with 35K made strange creaking noise when driven over bump or dip when it 's cold. The dealer have had the car for 4 days and they said the noise came from bad control arm.
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Okay I am having a problem with my A/C in my Blazer I've had my compressor replaced finally got all of my leaks fixed and replaced all the visible vacuum hoses and still without by passing my heater core I have no Air Conditioning. It just keeps blowing out hot air. Why my Air Conditioner is working. I really like my blazer but after having invested a little over 600.00 into just getting the A/C up and going with no luck is just getting frustrating. I am considering selling it and getting a truck. I would like to keep it if I can get the A/C up and going but I don't want to have to invest a whole lot more money into it.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe with the 4.8L V8. My A/C is blowing hot on the drivers side and cold on passenger side. There is only one controller, not two. What the problem could be...and I'm scared to ask...how much it may cost to fix? It has happened only one other time and that was a year ago, and it has worked fine since then until today.
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