Doors :: Grease Stains On The Area Under Door
May 30, 2013
We have had a 2007 Camry & now a 2007 BMW, both of which get grease stains on the area under both front doors. It is not on the door or anywhere else. Just in the 6 inch or so high area under each front door (both sides, 6 inch by 24 inch area). We also have a Saturn Vue but it does not get them. We can clean it off with Goo-Gone or Dissolve-It, but it still requires hard scrubbing. The car is Silver so the black stains are very obvious.
The BMW dealer said it was some kind of wax they coat things with during manufacture that oozes out of the door, but after 5 years that should be gone. Just frustrating since it so quickly re-accumulates after cleaning.
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Last week I had my car visited the dealer due to left rear shock leaked which was replaced under warranty...
This weekend is the first time that I took the car out for a drive... When I got home, I noticed the left rear wheel area is covered with grease... I don't know where it came from... look like brownish goo... I splashed around the inner side of the wheel and also cover part of the rear brake caliper, brake line, and control arms.
What kind of grease is this?? Where is the grease came from???
My GS is all stock... No modification.... Currently has 62K on it.
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2005 Jetta. My passenger side door emits the most high pitched, eye-gougingly disturbing noise when opening. I don't have any wd40 handy, would it be okay to just spread dome Mag1 wheel bearing grease over the hinge? Might be a stupid question, but that won't damage anything right?
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2000 f150 supercab 4x4 offroad. Sometimes in a very strong wind, I get a lot of air noise around the doors which is up in the window area. I occasionally get it if I haven't got the back half door shut tight.
Just wondering if there is a way to puff up those door seals without replacing them? Inject them with something or use a hair dryer to heat them?
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For the past few weeks I have been notice a weird oil stain in my engine bay on the left side. It seems to be coming from under the passenger motor mount and its just seems to being spraying lightly. Not a lot of oil at all. Ive noticed this happening after in installed my motor mount spacers. The oil stains are coming from under this motor mount and are spraying on the ac line in the picture and on the portion of the engine bay pictured.
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I recently took my 2010 Toyota Corolla LE to the dealer for an oil change and also to resolve a trunk leak.
I guess when they tried to resolve the trunk leak their mechanic smeared some oil on the headliner. Whats the best way to remove the oil stains on the headliner?
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For a long time I parked my black 2001 Honda Civic outside where it got spayed by lawn sprinklers. I also neglected to wash it frequently. Now it is completely covered with incredibly stubborn water stains. I tried washing, scrubbing, rubbing compound and lots and lots of vinegar and made hardly any progress.
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I have a 2010 F-150 Lariat and from the salted snow and slushy roads I have rust stains on the wheels. It is not severe and I dont think the wheels are steel but I would like to remove the rust stains without damaging the wheels.
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I recently purchased a 2009 FX4 Supercrew. So far so good, other than I am just noticing stains on the headliner near the back window. Looking at TSB 12-4-4, it looks like the truck has the leaky third brake light issue - or had it in the past. Of course I am beyond the factory warranty, but I was wondering if there was a way to tell if the previous owner had this resolved? Is it common, even if it was addressed previously, that the seal could go bad on this light again?
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I have a problem with my '08 driver's door lock. Essentially, the doors will all lock just fine using FOB, door buttons, etc, and all doors except driver's door will unlock using smart key features, fob, etc. However, if I want to unlock the driver's door I have to insert and turn the key. It feels a little stiff but it might not be any different than before as I rarely used this feature before. There was a period of about a week where it would fail intermittently before it began to fail consistently.
It just got warm out here in MD, not sure if that might have made a difference. I popped the rubber door plug out to lubricate it the lock mechanism with some silicone spray and also sprayed some in the lock itself, but it did not make a difference.
I am trying to avoid an expensive repair, but I am not really up for a complex replacement of the actuator motor - and it seems like the motor must be working anyway if I can lock the doors. I have not done anything in the latch area, just near where the key goes.
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I would like all the doors to unlock when i open the drivers door. The manual is a little confusing on how to do this or if you can.
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I tried the manual and search here but did not find how to switch this feature on and off. When I bought the car, I could use the remote to lock the doors while a door is open, such as when I am stepping out of the car. Then when the door shuts, it beeps to confirm a lock. This feature went away, and now it won't do anything while a door is open; presumably to keep me from locking my keys in the car. I can't stand this feature, it's like a damn Honda, protecting me from myself! How to switch this back?
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SFS less than 2K miles, noticed coolant on garage floor, chked coolant bottle nearly MT. Dropped engine air flow control panel. Found fresh coolant and stains running dwn both metal tubes leading to trans cooler. This is the 3rd Hyundai vehicle in 15 yrs, first negative experience, off to the dealer.
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Today I took the car in for the 15k service, I asked them to reprogram the car so that when I touch the driver door handle it would unlock all 4 doors. I went to my car this afternoon and this did not happened as I wanted.
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06 limited. I lost the Toyota book that has the procedure in it to change the smartkey system's door handle button to unlock all of the doors instead of just the drivers door.
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I have my doors set to unlock when I open the driver door. sometimes they do not unlock, there is no rhyme or reason for it, just it gets a wild hair and they don't unlock, drive to the next location and it works as advertised.
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Car is a 2007 elantra, auto trans. this car is not on hand and is not my car - i will be able to do some testing when i get the chance at some point.
this is an intermittent problem which makes diagnosis difficult. when the car is turned off, sometimes the doors will not lock and the door chime keeps going - if the doors are open or not.
Suspected that a pin switch in the ignition might be sticking (had this with my old accent) so some graphite lubricant was used to try and loosen it up. idea is that it might think the key is still in the ignition. didn't seem to do much.
What I recently found out was that it seems the car needs to be started again and then shut down to reset this fault. what i'm suspecting now after going over the wiring schematics is that the body control module (BCM) may be faulty - such as a relay sticking inside it. appears that the door chime is integrated into this part making testing even more fun.
The difficult part of this is that not only is this car on on hand to do some testing, but i have almost no information on the logic input/output of the BCM...so even bench testing might not be possible.
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I have a 2013 ES350 with 56k miles. Key fob opens and locks all doors except the driver door. I called the Lexus dealer in town and they said its probably the door lock acuator that needs to be replaced. It's out of warranty since it's over 50k miles. Is it possible to replace this yourself or is there some kind of recall for this. The car is only two years old and it seems ridiculous that something like this would already go out on a Lexus.
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I have been experiencing a crazy problem, my vehicle makes clicking noises from door area, this happens when car is moving or sitting. when i left my car parked for two days the car would not start. My mechanic thinks the door function is acting up and had a remote at one time on this vehicle, for which I don't have now. I just use key to open the door, he will remove door function and clicking should stop. and stop draining battery.
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I have a 95 SL1, 175,000 miles. Both front doors and the right rear door have water leaks. Leak is at the top edge of doors. Seals look ok. During heavy rain it is bad, soaking the seats and floor boards. Would adjusting the door lock striker by pulling the door in tighter to make a more positive seal or should I replace the door seals. I have friends you own Saturns and they have similar problems with door water leaks.
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How to set the car so that when you touch the door handle it unlocks all the doors and not just the drivers door. I have a SE with Nav.
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