Dodge - W150 :: Stops Running With Electrical System Completely Shut Down
Nov 14, 2012
I have a 1983 Dodge W150 that has a problem. It stops running with the electrical system completely shut down. If the battery is taken out of the system, and then reconnected, it starts and runs fine. Some history: a trailer brake control was installed a few years ago. Where the wire ran from the battery through the firewall, the insulation chafed and eventually shorted out. The fuseable links were burned out. I disconnected the brake control from the battery and replaced the fuseable links with a fuse block. The truck ran fine for 18 months. It has stopped twice in the last couple of days. Apparently something like a circuit breaker is tripping and then resetting when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected. My questions are
1) what is the breaker likely to be intended to protect,
2) where would the breaker be found, and
3) what is the likely cause of the breaker tripping (a short, but in what system)?
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While driving along my Expedition will completely shut down, ignition, all accessories, everything, for a few seconds then come back alive. It happens generally up hills or around right turns.
It is like the main ground strap is loose and losing contact momentarily. I don't know where to look for this. Engine was replaced 1500 miles ago. Battery and all visible connections seem ok.
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My 1992 Dodge W150 truck skips when I am accelerating slowly from a stopped position. It is an automatic and seems to change gears properly. It skips between every gear change until you reach cruising speed. The skip does not occur or I do not notice it, if I accelerate rapidly. After I bought it, a mechanic installed new plugs, plug wires, coil, rotor, dist cap, fuel filter and speed sensor. Truck has over 90,000 miles.
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Have a 06 Passat which shows to low pressure on tyres, but can't find that it's anything wrong with the pressure - I'v tried to turn it off, and it actually turns off for a little while - then starts to warn again of low pressure.
I've heard it can also monitor spare tyre - but I don't have spare only this compressor unit stuff.
What might cause this? - can I turn it off for real with vag-com in any way ?
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About two weeks ago i had a ton of work done to my W100: clutch, freeze plugs, valve seals, body mount bushing, headers, x-pipe dual exhaust. The shop did tell me before i picked it up that it had a lean pop and the carb needs to be rebuilt.
as of now, it idles fine and drive fine when cold, as it starts to warm up it starts to become problematic - it feels like the engine stumbles any time you try to maintain a constant speed (slight throttle engagement), it accelerates fine, but that's about it. You have to drive it in a constant state of accelerate and foot off gas because it does not like you foot on the gas pedal just a little. if you do keep your foot slightly engaged it will stumble and the exhaust will pop - not so much a backfire as there's not at jerking.
-both coolant sensors are new
-spark plugs are FSM spec champion copper 404/rn12yc
-plug wires are a year old (msd cheaper line)
-timing seems fine (around 8-10 BTDC)
-watched at night to try to see if any arcing was happening, none that i could see or hear
-finagled some exhaust restrictors on the exhaust tips out of rubber plumbing couplers and big lag bolt washers to try to recreate the backpressure from the old exhaust, no difference
-went around the vacuum lines with carb cleaner and propane, couldn't find any distinguishable leaks
Fuel filter about a year old- new fuel pump installed while at shop.
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Recently, the cars electrical system shut down. The central locking system, the windows, seat adjustments, interior lights and the radio quit operating. The A/C, outside mirrors, driving lights & ignition remained operative.
Removing the electrical modules in the engine compartment & re-seating them reset the system. Then the same issue recurred. Re-seating the modules did not resolve this the second time. Only when the modules under the rear seat were removed and re-installed did the systems start again. Which module is defective?
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98 Ford Escort (150k miles) died suddenly when I was going in reverse (parking) after a 100minute trip between 7 and 9 am. The entire electrical shut down after going about 30 ft in reverse.I checked all the fuses and they look OK. The alternator has about 2 years on it. The battery is used up but still works in warm climates.
Now, when i turn the ignition, no diagnostic lights turn on inside. I can only get it to do a warning audio beep on the first section turn of the ignition (warning that door is open). Electrical door locking makes a trying sound but no action. The headlights turn on when i flash the high beams.
This is a very tough problem because it's electrical. This car has had no mechanical issues and I take care of it, even driving no more than 65mph and avoiding day driving (due to heat). What could it possibly be? I have never even imagined a problem like this.
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I own a 1998 Dodge Stratus (ES Sedan 4D, 2.4 liter, automatic) and driving to a restaurant on Friday I ran over a rather nasty pothole. It had once had a metal plate over it, but it was 3/4 of the way uncovered and I hit so hard that the front of the car bottomed out hard on the pavement. I made sure I hadn't popped a tire and was on my way. Later that evening I got back in the car to go home and the battery had died suddenly. I knew I had not left any lights/systems on in the car. I got a jump and the car made it home, clicking, with lights flickering and gauge needles wobbling the whole way.
I left it for the weekend, and tried to assess the situation further after work on Monday. The battery in the Stratus is located under the driver's side wheel well, so I removed the cover to check if there were any loose wires/connections and there weren't. I got the car jumped and made it to an Advance Auto Parts to have the battery tested (again with clicking, flickering lights/gauges). Right before I got there, the battery light in the dash turned on.
The battery was tested almost completely dead, and it took about 30 minutes to get to the AAP from my house. It wouldn't jump again, so I had to get AAA to tow it back to my house (It took the AAA guy about 5 tries to jump it using his tow truck's battery, and it lasted long enough to drive it up onto the truck bed).
I didn't want to buy a new battery, in case there was something wrong with the alternator and the new battery would just get sucked dry like the old one. What might have happened. It seems strange that a battery would just die so suddenly with no warning and I don't want to get ripped off at a mechanic because I have no idea what might have happened (I don't know much about cars except for really basic stuff.)
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While driving home after replacing a dead battery, clearly I didn't tighten the negative cable enough as it popped off while I was driving (I only found this out after I got home though). But even after popping off, the truck kept going, albeit with the battery gauge maxed out and the dashboard/headlights flickering. I turned off what I could (it was night, so I needed headlights!), but it still accelerated well, and there were no noticeable performance issues at all. When I got home, I tightened the cable, started it up again just fine, ran it for a minute, then turned it off and restarted it fine again with no problems.
My concern is: am I looking at serious electrical issues long term, or should I be ok? I'm just trying to make sure that driving without a negative cable for less than a mile doesn't fry certain parts of the car, and end up causing big issues down the road. (Truck is a 2000 dodge dakota slt)
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I have a strange problem with my 2001 Santa Fe GLS that I can't put a finger on.
With my AC running, whenever the condenser fan (the one on the driver side) comes on, the electrical system seems to short out briefly (1/2 sec) - all lights go dimmed, the vehicle bucks - very scary when driving. Sometimes the engine sometimes shut off if idling.
I've changed the AC compressor (twice) and changed the entire condenser fan assembly to no avail.
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2006 Ford Freestar. While we were on the road the electrical system failed but the engine kept running. No radio, no lights, no a/c, no ABS, no nothing – but were able to keep on driving. When I tried to turn on the fan or the a/c, the car hesitated as though the power was being interrupted. After 10-15 minutes of driving, everything seemed to return to normal. It starts and seems to run normally now, but we are hesitant to take it out on the road. What might be going on?
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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Had the ex up on a lift today as I plan on swapping out the shocks and noticed that the front bump stops are completely gone.
Could this be contributing to the harsh bumpy jarring ride I have?
I don't quite understand what they do as they just appear to be bolted to the frame and the next piece of metal they can hit seems far away from where they are positioned?
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I have a 2002 Explorer 4 door with the flex fuel V6 engine with 157k miles. This has happened twice in a month. You got to start the truck and it starts to crank for a second and half and then it completely stops for a half second and then starts cranking again and fires up. The kicker is after it did this the instrument gauges, all of them, stayed at nothing when it started and then they all at the same time went to the highest level and then they all dropped back down to nothing and then rose to their perspective positions. My trip gauge reset it self to zero as well..
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My 2002 Toyota Camry XLE V6 (115k miles) stalls once every 4 months (happened thrice in the last year) or so when I'm braking & bringing the care to a complete stop.
The check-engine light comes on just before the car completely stops. The steering wheel feels locked. Putting it back in parking, turning off & turning it back on doesn't work. The car doesn't start. After 10-15 minutes, If I put the key in, turn it on & try to turn the steering wheel while turning it on, it turns back up & runs without any issues for the next few months.
I've taken the car to 3 different mechanics (including a Toyota dealership mechanic) & they tell me that the car is in great condition (I've done a lot of preventive maintenance on the car). They can't find any error codes & they checked everything but can't find any issues
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On my 01' the bottoms of the bump stops are completely gone. Rusted out to the point to where the rubber stop on the front lower control arm (if the truck bottomed-out) would go right thought it. The rubber stops are fine.
This pic was taken from below the control arm looking up. You see the rubber bumper and just above it is the stop (some what triangular shaped). the bottom is rotted away... Are these replaceable or repairable? They seem like they are welded to the frame.
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My car has worked fine since I got it 1 year ago, I just put a new battery a few months ago but when I tried to start it this morning it started for a second then completely shut off. I cant even take the key out of the ignition (infiniti q45 has a button on the ignition that needs to be pushed while taking the key out and that button is stuck now.) When I open the door, the lights on the side of the door and the open door sound work but they are both very distorted and faint.
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I have 2004 Toyota Camry V4 Automatic , I recently installed a Two way Compustar Remote Starter a month ago. While i was driving my vehicle on the highway (110 kmph) my car engine shut off completely with no lights. I parked my car on the shoulder and again start my car normally with the key and was able to start it normally. There was no engine check lights or any kind of warning.
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so I was driving down the street the other day then my car completely shut off no interior lights car won't turn over radio wont turn on had to push it up the hill, to get it out of the street and get it towed.
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I got a brand new 590 HP Ford F150 Raptor with the Roush Supercharger. The car's electronics have completely shut down twice (first at about 800 miles and again at 2500 miles). I called the dealer the first time it happened and they said i must have bumped the key. I figured it could have been a fluke, but then it happened again so the car is no longer safe to drive.
I've taken it into the dealer twice and they can't find anything wrong with it unless i can recreate the problem for them. Obviously if it happens once every 1000 miles, that is tough to do. The only common theme was that it happened both times while slowing down and turning left.
I've given up on having Ford service, so i'm about to just replace the ignition on my own dime. If i didn't put $25k into it already, i'd just make the dealer take it back under lemon laws.
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I had a leaking reserve tank on my Honda. These bikes have 2 gas tanks. Why I do not know. It is a pain to remove this tank. I fixed the leak but after it started hard. I thought perhaps the carbs were dried out and it took a while because of that. Once I originally got it started it started fine. It would miss a little especially when cold. I had not taken it very far until the other day.
After 10 miles it began to lose power and shut down completely. After 10 minutes I got it to run for 5 more miles. I stopped to do something and left there about another 5 miles till it shut down again. After another 10 min wait I got it to run after turning it over for a long time. After a few more times I got it home to storage. I thought after it cooled off it would start up easier, but no it started just as hard as it was warm.
What could I have screwed up by simply repairing the reserve fuel 2nd tank? Could I have gotten some dirt or something into the tank?
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