Dodge - Stratus :: 2004 - Check Engine Light Keep On Flashing
Dec 14, 2013
I have a 2004 Dodge Stratus (165,000 Miles). The check engine light has been on for at least eight months. I took it to have it checked out and the mechanic said ''there is a very small crack in the exhaust line''. Well, now if I turn the car on cold, it shakes all over and sometimes will turn off. It smells like straight exhaust.
Yesterday I started the car and the check engine light flashed for a good minute, then stayed on. Also, when I get out from a normal drive, you can smell gas. Plain ole gas.
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On empty a week ago, filled 1/2 a tank, drove home no issue. Didn't drive truck for a week. Turned it on this morning (didn't warm it up) about 10 minutes into the drive anytime you tried to accelerate, the truck would buck. If you were idling or just had your foot slightly on the pedal driving at the same speed it was fine, it only bucked when I really pushed on the pedal to accelerate. The check engine light started flashing as well.
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My 95 Dodge neon had no problems it ran, started, drove fine everyday! Check engine light turns on after few drives... Now after about 10 drives the car does not start. It makes a rapid clicking noise.... Called auto shop they say battery, I bought this battery one year ago from them. They suggest i try a jump start. I go to jump start, look down check engine light is FLASHING.... Since car wont start, needs a tow for a car I'm not even driving nor will drive and not worth my money to invest anymore.....
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that has an intermittently flashing check engine light. I took it to the dealership to have the codes read and they told me that they got codes for Cylinder 2 and Cylinder 5 misfires. Additionally they got a code saying the Engine Coolant Temperature Sender was electronically faulty. What is this part and what does it do? Is it essential to fix it immediately?
The dealership recommended changing the spark plugs and the air filters for the cylinder misfire issue. We are also talking about replacing the timing belt since the car has 105k miles on it. I know there are several other parts that are replaced during the timing belt replacement (like the water pump, thermostat, oil seals, etc). Is it essential to replace these items if there is no immediate need to do so?
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2006 F150 Triton 5.4 Motor... It's been over a months journey with fixing this truck....
How it started: had an oil change, a while back, on long drive after, check engine light started flashing as I accelerated up hill so I pulled over and in a while it was ok, but couldn't get on the gas too much, or it would cause that flashy light thing.
So fast forward to now, after driving it with an intermittent miss for a while, was driving it to work and the miss became a shudder, and she stopped going over 30-40, and runs extremely rough.
Steady but loud idle.
Replaced all plugs with motocraft plugs and new coils all around. No change.
Finally hooked it up to a computer and got random misfires, now it's saying
P0174 bank 2 too lean,
But it's bank ONE that's the only side misfiring.
Here are the freeze frame details:
Frame 1 Mod $00
MIL Status Off
Troub Code P0174
Abslt TPS 24.3%
Eng speed 1665
Baro PRS 71 kpa
Calc Load 100%
[Code].....
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Got an 07 Screw with only 50,000 miles. Yesterday, wife drove it home from work and said it would only do 45mph and didn't sound good. No warning lights were on, she said. I test drove it in the evening and it ran totally fine. Today, she drives it to work and said it ran real rough and "Check Engine" light was on. I picked it up from her work and it idles very rough and slow, and once you hit about 2000 rpm, it runs decent, maybe even normal. Below that, it stumbles and engine doesn't sound right. "Check Engine" light is either ON steady, or flashing. I don't have a code reader, so its likely going to the Ford Dealer Monday. Is there any way to read the code without a reader?
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2005 F-150 4.6L 2WD, 268,000 miles....
Recently I got a flashing 'Check Engine' light and a rough running engine (along with a tapping noise) when I was passing someone (and pulling a trailer). I retrieved codes 300, 304, & 305. I can't swear to it, but I think the tapping noise started at the same time as the coil problem.
I replaced coils #4 & #5 (later that same day) and the engine smoothed back out but the tapping noise is still hanging around. The noise speeds up at higher RPM's and doesn't go away if I shift into neutral. Oil level and pressure are fine and I only use Motorcraft 5W-20 and Motorcraft filters (and change the oil every 5K miles).
Not sure if this is relevant: I think I have bad valve guide seals (blue smoke after long idles) but no other problems that I am aware of. It sort of sounds like a lifter, but is there a good way to pin it down? Is it possible that this tapping is related to the bad coils?
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My daughter's 2005 Dodge Stratus (2.7 I think) is giving an unusual problem on an intermittent basis. Sometimes when she cranks the car, the check engine and oil lights will stay on. She can put the car in gear and the car will move but the steering wheel will not turn. It's like it's in a locked position - it's not just being hard to turn, it won't turn at all. There's a sufficient amount of power steering fluid in the pump reservoir.
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I have a 2005 f-150 street boss with 79000 mile, and it is shooting off going down the road, and the check engine light is flashing. The first time I started it back up and it would idle fine, but the throttle wouldn't do any thing. After setting about 15 min. I started it up and it ran good. I checked the codes and it had a p2104 Throttle actuator control system forced idle. It happened again with my wife. This time when I checked the codes it had the p2104 and a p2112 throttle actuator control system stuck closed code. What could be the problem, or a troubleshooting guide I could use to try and diagnose it.
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My 2004 Dodge Stratus with 2.7l V6 has been good to me, now up over 140K miles. Lately, though (twice), I drove it a under a mile, shut it off, and when I returned to it could not get it to start. It turned over just fine, but didn't seem to be firing. When I returned several hours later, it started, running roughly for awhile. Once it smoothed out, it ran just fine, and I've had no other problems. My mechanic had a similar problem with a Dodge pickup of the same year, and it turned out to be the crankshaft sensor. Is there anything else we should be suspecting?
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2004 Dodge Stratus 80K... What happened is my check engine light came on maybe 6 months ago and I took it to have it looked at and they were closing but the guy told me don't worry about it and I be ok until I come back and it probably wasn't a big deal. The light went off a day or two so I didn't worry about it. It came on about a week ago and I haven't had time to take it in yet. So here is the chain of events-
Check engine light (6 months ago approx)Check engine light off (couple days later)
Check engine light (1-2 weeks ago)
Put my car in drive, transmission didn't engage right away. I thought I had it in neutral by mistake. then it engaged.(about a week ago)
Same thing happened last night except it took longer for it to kick in and when I ran into the store and came out, it backed up ok but wouldn't go in drive right away. I thought it was because it was freezing) out and maybe needed to warm up better. (we had a terrible ice storm here in Washington).
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I have a 2006 Dodge Stratus with approximately 104,000 miles on it (most highway) and I'm at my wit's end trying to figure out my rough idling situation. When I was at stop light, I would notice a rougher than normal idling but not to the point where stalling would occur. The timing belt was just replaced a year and a half ago and I thought maybe something was wrong with the alternator??? I took it into the shop and they replaced my engine mounts, replaced spark plugs, and did a fuel injector cleaning....? Well not exactly....now the idling is 10x worse to where my entire steering wheel is shaking when I'm stopped at a stop light! The car itself just sounds rough.
No check engine light is on and the idling isn't nearly as bad as when I park the car....a part of me wants to throw in the towel and say it is what it is, but I just have a feeling that something's just not right.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Stratus. 2.7 Engine. It died the other day and wouldn't start up. I tried to jump it and noticed smoke coming from under the engine. When I checked the starter was burnt so I replaced it with a new one and it does the same thing. It almost cranked once and then just makes a woo-woov kind of sound.
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I have a 2.7L flex fuel Dodge Stratus with 120K+ miles on it and a problem local mechanics and the Dodge dealership cannot seem to locate. When the engine is hot, and only when it's hot, the car will jerk suddenly while driving for a split second, then resume normal operations. It feels almost like you hit something and is scaring the bejeesus out of my wife. It also sometimes stalls out when at a light after sitting at idle for a few seconds. It idles down from 600 RPM like the air conditioning compressor is cutting on and then dies completely.
The car shows no error codes and the check engine light does not come on when this happens. I have replaced the spark plugs, and the transmission solenoid, which is what the Dodge dealer said "fixed" the car for almost $900, and it did it again on the way home from the dealership. My next idea was to change the fuel filter, or maybe the cam position sensor or timing belt or chain. I wonder if I am just trowing money down a hole at this point though, since Kelly Blue Book on this car is under 2K anyway.
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My 2004 Dodge Stratus has been spiking hot on the temperature gauge recently. For the last few days it has had a strong smell of antifreeze. I haven't seen and dampness on the passenger side floor board, so I don't think it is the heating coil. Seems to have been running a little hotter than usual recently (week). Coolant levels seem to be in good shape. Doesn't look low when hot or cool. Fan seems to be running when the car is on.
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I have a 2004 Dodge stratus recently it makes a really loud noise for like 15 seconds then stops if I have the heat or air on. If I don't have it on it doesn't make the sound but either way after 15 mins of driving white smoke will come out of the passenger side and a funny smell. It starts fine isnt overheating, and drives fine.
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My front brakes have never been right in this car. Rotors go bad within a few thousand miles of being replaced. I don't drive fast or anything like that. After years of paying for new rotors at every brake job with Firestone, I decided to do it myself. I put new rotors and pads on a year ago and they went bad in a few months - they feel warped again. I took the rotors off and took them to O'Reilly to get them turned but a micrometer revealed they're not warped, just showing uneven pad wear. The tech said maybe I have a bad caliper. When I did the brake job nothing seemed wrong; both pistons went back into the calipers without issue. Now I'm thinking about replacing both front calipers and pads, but I don't want to waste more money. How do I tell if the calipers are bad and if they are can I fix or replace?
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I have a 1998 expedition 4.6 4x4 check engine light on od light flashing sometimes checked it and got p1747 code i was told epc solenoid or short on trans wiring. I already dropped the trans pan, looking for a step by step easy way to diagnose and find the short or if i need to replace any of the solenoids. I have voltmeter and taste light....
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I've got a 2006 B9 with about 64,000 miles. Just a bit ago my check engine and ABS light came on, along with my cruise light flashing.
After researching a little bit on the forums and couldn't find an answer, I took it into the dealer, to which I was told that there was a bad oil pressure sensor for the right-hand side of the motor. I had them replace it out, and less than 20 miles down the road, the same lights appeared on my instrument cluster, and I took it back to the dealer. They informed me that there was now a bad sensor on the left hand side that would be another $380. I scheduled an appointment for later next week, and had them reset the error.
On the same day, about 2 hours later the lights reappeared on my dash, and I took the car over to a local parts store, where I used their scanner and the car now spit the following errors:
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 1 timing over advan.
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 2 timing over advan
Cam/crankshaft pos. correlation sensor A - Bank 2
Cam/crankshaft pos. Correlation sensor A - Bank 1
Camshaft position actuator A bank 1 timing over - advan
Camshaft position adctuator A bank 2 timing over -advan
Cam/crankshaft pos correlation sensor A - bank 1
I reset the codes, and waited another day for the lights to reappear on the dash. Again, I rescanned the errors, and found the same top 5 codes that I listed above.
Is there something more major going on here with the computer?
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Had an issue with "check" engine light turning on and "cruise" control light flashing, intermittently. Dealer said we had dirty oil contaminating some solenoid valves in the system but we had just done an oil change and do so every 3-5K (car has 170K). They recommended switching around the sensors and doing an "oil flush" with another oil change. The warning light problem hasn't recurred, in the past month, since we started giving the gas cap a few extra turns after a fill-up. We're getting ready to buy a new car and don't want to give what might be a serious problem over to the next owner.
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I have a 2007 L.L. Bean Edition Forester. The cruise light is flashing and check engine light is solid. I am well into my retirement age and nearest dealer is about 2 hours away. Is this something that local mechanic can fix? He is very good, but not Subaru schooled. I'm afraid to drive it now.
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