Dodge - Stratus :: 1997 - Auto Trans Not Shifting / Total Limp Mode
Mar 25, 2011
I read another blog on here about stratus not shifting and decided to ask someone about my limp mode problem. A few months ago I was driving uphill when it jerked before it got into limp mode. I thought maybe the hot weather caused it(it was 95 deg). I let it sit overnight. and the next day car was fine. for about 3-4 months. Now it got into limp mode only after it goes through all the gears once only. When i come to a stop it will go into limp again. Got a 0700 and 0760 codes. My speedometer works. tach works. Basically everything works as it should.
I decided to change the ATF and filter, both speed sensors and i get the same old codes after a drive around the block. I then decided to remove the neg terminal overnight. Next day I would have no signal at the data link port. When i removed the key from the ignition my dash lights for the mileage will stay on for another 3-4 seconds before disappearing. I checked the ground wires to the PCM and TCM which are good. Fuses and relays are also good. I even swapped some of them. Still no change. 1997 stratus 2.4 auto...
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My Neon tranny has been acting up lately with the cold weather. When I first put it in gear, if I do not keep it at a near idle sometimes the transmission will go into a total neutral mode. You have to just stop, wait a minute or two, and then begin to take off very slowly.
Once I get couple blocks it works fine. The temps have been in the 30's lately. Will get colder. I have been letting it warm up for about 5 mins before I drive it. I think it may work more if I leave it run longer, maybe 10 mins. The fluid level is full.
Could it have something to do with the fluid being cold? If so, would letting it idle for a very long time, 10 - 15 mins solve this problem? What is causing this? What can be done?
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Just fully rebuilt transmissin 4r75 replaced all planet gears clutches etc. Now with it all back together the speedo does not work on truck goes into limp mode. I replaced the vss sensor an no luck
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I have a 2003 Dodge Intrepid SE 2.7L with 170,xxx miles.... My check engine light came on and is showing the codes P0562, P1776, P0871, P0441, P0700, and P0440. While driving, the car jerks and then i only have 2nd gear. If i shut the car off and turn it back on everything runs normal again for a little while. i had my battery and alternator checked and both tested good. What could be causing these codes and why only 2nd gear (Limp Mode)?
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I have a 2005 2.7L Santa Fe that was shifting poorly and getting stuck in limp mode intermittently. I read up on it and found that it was probably an issue with the input/output speed sensors. The codes confirmed my suspicions and I replaced both the input and output sensors. The codes cleared and the tranny shifted like a dream. Unfortunately after 2 days and 100+ miles the car suddenly started down shifting randomly on my way home from work. The CEL came back on and the car went into limp mode. Could the sensor have gone bad again? Or could it be the wiring harness that plugs into one of the sensors? I don't understand why the car would be fine for a few days and then all of a sudden be acting the same way.
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Can any automatic transmission possibly be harmed by shifting from Neutral to Drive while rolling forward at around 30mph, or from Neutral to Reverse while rolling slowly (less than 5 mph) backward?I only ask because my new CRV makes a very slight sort of grinding sound when I do the N to D rolling shift, and the backward N to R rolling shift causes it to act as if it just stays in Neutral for several seconds, instead of promptly engaging Reverse. The manual of course says nothing about this. I thought all automatics were just fine with being shifted from Neutral to Drive or Reverse while moving, as long as you were headed in the right direction.
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The auto trans on my SL has been shifting hard and jerking lately, and the other night it wouldn't shift into 4th at all and I got a CEL code having to do with the transmission solenoid. So to my question; how hard is this solenoid to replace, and were is it located? Also, need to get part number? Additionally, I check the fluid every few weeks so I know that's good, and it seems to get worse (more jerky) when its hot.
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1999 Jetta MK4 with only 124k miles on it. Everything is fine with the car except when the car shifts from 2nd to 3rd it is jerky/violent/forceful everything else is good with car except check engine light is on but I don't really care about that and I'll go check with autozone to see what the code is. I am able to feather the gas when I know its going to shift and I can make the shift pretty smooth. My question to all the experts is does this mean that this tranny is on its last leg or does it still have a lot of life left in it. My old Cabriolet did it for years and never was a problem.
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1997 6 cylinder Chrysler Cirrus 162,000 miles. My car will randomly and unpredictably go into limp mode. I suddenly find myself in second gear while my engine is revving at high speed (3000-5000 RPMs) in order to maintain velocity. The check engine light comes on immediately, but usually switches off after 2-3 days maximum, and typically less than that. If I pull over, and turn off the engine, it re-sets, allowing me to start the car, and continue my journey, shifting normally.
Additional pertinent information:
• it happens more often when the weather is warm
• it has happened while traveling down the highway at 65 mph (scary!)
• at times, the shift into second is so abrupt, it feels as though I have been rear-ended
• once, while in a traffic jam and moving at about 20 mph, I hit a pot hole and the engine started revving at 3000, with no change of gears
• a couple of times, rather than throwing me into second, it has seemed to throw me into neutral, with the familiar high revs, but absolutely no power with increased pressure on the gas pedal
• it is happening with increased frequency i.e. I have had to stop as many as six times during an 16 mile trip.
• Recurring computer codes: P0140, P0141, P0700, P0765, P1494
04/2011 replace right front cam sealFront engine mountReplace front valve cover gasket w/tube sealsFront bank spark plugs & wires (3 platinum plugs)Transmission flush
05/2011 cylinder #5 misfireReplace rear valve cover gasket & tube seals3 platinum plugs (leaky power steering pump fouled the plugs)
05/2011 recall work #C45 floor shifter ignition/park interlockPush rod trans- shifter
09/2012 transmission shift solenoid
10/2012 6 new plugs & wires Plenum gasketDistributor capEGR valve gasket
There has been other service work done during this time period, but (I think) I have included only that which may relate to the transmission. I am so frustrated, and my mechanic is stumped. He has referred me to either a transmission shop, or a Chrysler dealer. After hearing my account of the problems over the phone, the head mechanic at the dealership suggested that it’s time for me to get a new car.
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I am looking at a 1997 F150 with a 5.4 in it, guy who owns it says if you drive it down the street the temp gauge climbs and then the truck goes into limp mode but if you check the engine temp under hood it is nowhere near overheating. Where I should start to look for a problem here? If this is too complicated I will pass on the truck, its not worth it to me to get this truck if it is going to be a nightmare. I have a 2000 with a 4.6 that runs great so this would just be a spare for me, but would like to have it because its in such nice shape.
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My Daughter just bought a nice 99 F150 and the auto trans gear dash indicator is off by one so park says R and drive says N ... shes also having a little trouble with the key occasionally so I think the problems are related. Is this adjustable or not?
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The trans fluid appears to need to be changed. I do not know if it has been changed in the past as this 2001 F150 with a V6 truck is new to me and has 88K miles. I am wanting to drain the torque converter as well as drop the pan and change the filter. I am willing to take the risk of having to rebuild the transmission if the flush junks it up.
Three Questions:
1. Is there any issue with mixing the synthetic with ATF fluid as there would still be ATF in the cooler and other places unless I take it someplace and have it mechanically flushed?
2. Is there a way to determine if my 4R70W trans has a drain plug in the torque converter with out getting under there, looking thru the inspection port while some one is clicking the starter?
3. Is there any reason not to put a drain plug in the pan while it is uninstalled?
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I have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
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Even when switched to auto in total darkness, the lights do not come on. We have to manually do it every time. We've had this 2007 with 60k on it for around 3 months and the auto feature didn't work when we got it
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Raised car on jack stands. Totally level. Opened up the check cap, the one with the allen key.
5.5 cups of black fluid came out (car only has 25K miles on it).
After it finished draining from the check plug, I opened the drain plug. 4.5 cups came out.
Total of 10 cups. So it appears the trans had a little more than .5 qts too much. The shocker though is that the check plug let more than half of that drain out, so it appears tube inside the pan is defective and I'm going to have to make sure to put just the specified amount of fluid back in and hope for the best.
I'm wondering if I should just put back exactly the amount that came out which would be 2.5 qts rather than the specified 1.9 qts.
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I bought a 1997 f150 with 160l miles on it. It is a 4x4 with the 5.4 v automatic. While I'm drive and in 4th and 5th gear, the tranny shakes the whole truck and then shifts hard! I check the fluid and it's still good and red but looks like there is to much. I'm planning on removing some and adding some lucus additive in it. What could cause this???
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1991, F-250, automatic, 150,000 miles, two tanks. Used mostly for towing an RV plus some pleasure. Not in daily use. A month ago I parked it and a few days later cranked it up and found it wouldn't run over thirty MPH. There was some high pitched backfire in the engine compartment and the trans. wouldn't shift. I parked it and the next day it wouldn't start. When I turned the key on the fuel pumps (either tank) ran continuously. Towed to a garage (I am not a Mechanic). They have replaced the fuel pressure control, checked all pressures and it still won't run right. The problem is intermittent. My tranny man said the trans was good. My mechanics don't know what to do. I bought it in 1998.
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I was driving at 40 -30 mph on a dark street and rammed through a bit of water ( maybe 4" high and 6 feet across). So right after i got these tranny codes and my tranny went to safe mode kicking hard when shifting:
P0705
Transmission Range Sensor Out Of Self Test Range Or Shorted To Ground
P1783
Transmission Over Temperature Condition
P0712
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Input Low
P1702
Transmission Concern
Luckily I was a block away from home. So i assumed all those sensors shorted with water ( I thought they were all water proof...hmm) so i let them dry.
So the codes went away and the truck seamed fine for 2 weeks until i felt the tranny kicking again into gears yesterday. So today i went on a test drive and it was fine at first until it went into safe mode again with only 2 codes:
P0705
Transmission Range Sensor Out Of Self Test Range Or Shorted To Ground
P1702
Transmission Concern
So, that means the other sensors dried out and i destroyed the TRS? and if so would it malfunctioning cause the tranny to go into safe mode or could there be some other issue?
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I have a 97 4runner Automatic that as your driving it hesitates between shifting its gears. Most prominently happens around 80km/hr shifting between gears.
Its a sort of soft sputtering/jerking motion momentarily. It does shift into the gear and does drive fine once its in the gear. My check engine light is on as well now....
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My daughter's 2005 Dodge Stratus (2.7 I think) is giving an unusual problem on an intermittent basis. Sometimes when she cranks the car, the check engine and oil lights will stay on. She can put the car in gear and the car will move but the steering wheel will not turn. It's like it's in a locked position - it's not just being hard to turn, it won't turn at all. There's a sufficient amount of power steering fluid in the pump reservoir.
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I have a 99 Dodge Stratus w/ +191K miles. Recently the gas light would come on and the needle would drop down to "E" then go back up to where it started...regardless of how much gas is in the tank. Once the tank drops below half a tank, the light stays on and the needle goes all the way down to "E". I have no way of knowing how much gas is in the tank and I have to judge it by mileage. What's going on?? Is this an easy (inexpensive) fix??
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