2000 Dodge Dakota (144K miles)just performed tune up (spark plugs, oil change, pvc, air filter, battery). Before and After tune up I am experiencing stalling at light after going over multiple speed bumps.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1997 Dodge Dakota V8 (automatic) with about 140k and live in Vermont. Recently, my truck will konk out while I am sitting at a red light. As I'm sitting there, the RPM's keep going down below 700, until finally stalling out completely. When I shift into Park/Neutral then turn ignition, it will start right back up again. To get around this, I have been shifting into Neutral while I wait at the light, then back into Drive when it turns green. I have recently installed a new battery and exhaust system. I am wondering if this is occurring because of worn plugs, a dirty air filter, cracked vacuum hose, or bad alternator?
View 2 RepliesHere's what is going on with my 2000 Dakota V6 3.9L V6:
After sitting for at least a couple of hours, the truck will crank but not start. After 3-5 tries, the truck does start but idles roughly at a very low RPM for 10 seconds or so and then stalls. I turn the key one more time and it starts up great and idles and drives normally. This behavior is very consistent. I have only driven it about 5 miles after it started doing this, because on that trip, the engine stalled while I was driving. Occasionally the MIL comes on and gives P0443 as the code. Question is, can the evap purge solenoid cause this behavior if it is going bad? I have inspected the vacuum lines, and they seem ok.
One more note: When this first started, I was pretty sure it was the fuel pump. Replacing that has not fixed the problem, and the fuel pump relay is good.
I have had this truck in 3 different shops and none of them could figure it out. The codes say misfire in cyl 2 and 5 bank 1 too lean and primary and secondary circuits malfunctioning for ignition coil. I've replaced the ign coil cap, plugs,plug wires, rotor, pcv, fuel pump, pick up coil, cat, o2 sensors and all sensors under the hood. Switched out all vacuum lines, cleaned the IAC and checked the pulse ring. The truck loses all power and either dies or backfires and regains power randomly. If I drive at night, it will stall and keep cranking when trying to restart. Usually have to let it sit for ten minutes for it to turn back over. Last night it backfired and stalled every 50 ft for over a mile. During the day, it revs up and down at idle by about 100 rpms.
View 6 RepliesMy '96 Dakota SLT 6-cylinder pickup backfired and blew a hole in my muffler ... I've had it in three different shops on six occasions since and the thing still hiccups, backfires, stalls ... most of the electrical switches and sensors have been replaced ... right before it back fires, it feels like it is going to stall, then "POW" ... sometimes it continues to run fine for a little while after that ... then it happens again ... When it stalls it feels like it is running out of gas ... it is almost impossible to restart right away, but if I wait a few minutes, the starts right up ...
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 dodge dakota with 6cyl fi stalls while doing 3 point turns or backing into parking spots. It also recently has a new problem. If I drive the truck for only a few minutes and turn it off I have a hard time getting it started again. It sounds like it wants to start but just barely can't.
View 1 RepliesMy buddy has been telling me that his 2000 dodge Dakota v8 sport is burning 4 quarts of oil a day. Note that he only drives roughly 25 miles a day. The truck is claimed to have no oil leak whatsoever and this happens around 2500 miles after every oil change. I find it very hard to believe.
View 19 RepliesCold start. engine starts but wont idle, just dies. rpms drop. Restart same. Must neutral drop to get going keep rpms up until engines shifts then things are fine until next cold start. Cleaned throttle, changed air filter, dry gas, injector cleaner, no warning signal, scans clean. 180k miles.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 dakota in the morning after the first start, moving foward the truck rocks and feels like trans. slipping. After 5 mins, just fine. Change the Trans. Ffilter?
View 1 RepliesSo, my oil light comes on after startup like usual then shuts off. Anywhere from 2-5 minutes of the vehicle running light comes back on and does not shut off unless I restart the vehicle. Have changed oil pressure switch and oil pressure is reading in the normal range..
05 dakota with 175000 kilometres
My ABS light came on and my parking brake light as wellAlso my Speedometer Quit working all at the same time what happened?????I drive a 1998 Dodge Dakota 5.2L 4x4 5speed manual
View 3 RepliesThe "Service 4 WD" indicator light came on and stayed on for about 5 miles this morning. I rarely use the 4WD function usually just using it on a dirt road to make sure it gets used. Would this indicate the need for a fluid change or is something more sinister afoot?
View 1 RepliesI was asked to look at this Dakota because the Brake warning light and the ABS lights come on.
I get no stored codes with my code reader, and upon test driving it I found that the lights both go off when you shut off the truck, but each time you start up and drive off....those two lights will come on the first time you hit about 30mph and then stay on until you shut off the truck again. Restart and the lights are off until you drive off and hit about 30mph again.
Backing out of the shop, stopping, turning around, down the driveway 50yds and stopping at the road....the lights stay off, even though I just used the brakes three times at least. Get on the road and hit 30mph and they go on.
The two fuses, one in the fuse block by the drivers door and the other (ABS) fuse in the Power distribution box test good.Both brake lights work at the rear as does the high mount brake light. Fluid is at the full mark.
I pulled all four wheels and drums on the back and inspected everything and everything looks good and the E brake cables are intact and working as they should. Brakes were replaced (not by me) and have a little wear, but plenty of material left. No leaks of any lines, calipers, or cylinders. Front rotors are not scored from a sticky caliper, they do have a little minor rusting but because it has been idle for a few months.
I have the same year and drive train in my Dakota. Their truck has about the same stopping power as mine, but I did notice that I did not feel the surging in the ABS as I feel in my truck. I tested this by traveling at about 40mph with the passenger wheels in the gravel and drivers wheels on the pavement and applied the brakes hard. In my truck I felt the surging, but not in theirs. Note that my truck has a tall cap and always carries an extra 800 pounds of gear in the back.Maybe the heavier weight makes my ABS kick in quicker, but I would think weight wouldn't matter.....one wheel is slipping...period.
On empty a week ago, filled 1/2 a tank, drove home no issue. Didn't drive truck for a week. Turned it on this morning (didn't warm it up) about 10 minutes into the drive anytime you tried to accelerate, the truck would buck. If you were idling or just had your foot slightly on the pedal driving at the same speed it was fine, it only bucked when I really pushed on the pedal to accelerate. The check engine light started flashing as well.
View 3 Replies2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
View 2 RepliesWhen my gas light comes on during the day my horn blows every couple minutes at night time the headlights go from high-beam to low-beam every couple minutes. Also, my check engine light is on more than it is off
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermittent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air inleakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?
I just replaced fuel pump and tps on my 1989 Dodge Dakota 4 cyl truck. Now it idles rough and the check engine light came on. I have removed battery cable to reset computer but did no good. What could be the problem now? I have since replaced the plug wires and distrib cap and it is flashing 3 5 5 twice now?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2000 Nissan Xterra with about 100,000 miles. When I start out and get between 45 and 55 miles an hour, it sounds like I am going over speed bumps in the rear end. I noticed that it seems to come on more when I let up on the gas and barely gas it again. What the problem could be?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Dodge Caravan SE 3.3L. The timing chain recently broke. So I replaced the timing set, cover, water pump, camshaft sensor, and oil pan. The timing is all aligned. It starts right up, but then stalls. Unplugged the front three spark plugs to see if one of those were the problem, and then it ran better and didn't stall out.
View 3 RepliesI recently bought a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer LS EXT 4.2l 6cyl with about 129k miles on it. The vehicle is excellent condition and has no leaks on the engine or transmission. I took it for a test drive before buying for about 20min and no issues with it shift or rough idling.
After having the SUV for about a week, I noticed that it has a slight rough idle at red lights and gets a little worse when the AC is on. Twice now in the past week the SUV begins to sputter at the red light and then shuts off. It doesn't do this every time and I have noticed it happens more when the fuel gauge is in between the quarter tank E line. My father in-law is having a similar issue with his 2003 Trailblazer, same engine and make and model.
I should also mention that no check engine light comes on or leave an ERR code.
Throttle body needs to be cleaned: We have done this on my father in-laws and didn't fix the issue.
Replaced the spark plugs: didn't solve the issue
Read that it could possibly be the APPS sensor under the gas pedal: Haven't replaced this yet
Tighten or replace gas cap: Have done this, didn't fix
Have the idle reprogrammed: Have not done yet.
Could possibly be a fuel pump issue.