Dodge - Shadow :: 1991 - Shudder Upon Acceleration And Shifting From 1st To 2nd
Mar 13, 2011
I bought a 1991 Dodge Shadow from a private owner and he told me it needed a trans mount but upon inspection the mount seems to be fine the car will shudder upon first acceleration and a louder shudder shifting from 1st to 2nd. So I was leaning more towards a cv axle rather than the transmission mount still not sure. Only have this problem under a load 60-65 mph seems to drive fine and no viberations!!!!
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I have a 1991 DODGE Dakota V6 3.9L FI with a TorqueFlite TF-6 A-500 4 speed RWD Automatic Transmission. Now, this truck is amazing and so is this transmission. It's been going for 22 years and about 400,000 miles and the bands in the tranny have never been replaced...EVER. The fluid filter has been replaced, once. Anyway...it's amazing, I mean the thing is still going strong after all this time and such low maintenance.
Anyway, I noticed a slight lack of acceleration, so as usual for an old automatic, I figured the bands might be slipping a bit. So I dug up the torque specs for it and performed the adjustments. Now, this is the funny part and I was not at all surprised to discover this. In fact, I'd had the hunch the entire time. I discovered that the bands are so old that they no longer respond properly to the recommended torque specs, so I had to guess work them. I did a bit of careful fiddling as I know just about everything there is to know about automatics and I understand perfectly the damage that can be caused when under/overtightening bands.
Anyway, I did some fiddling and got some interesting results that actually made me laugh to be honest, but I knew at first I wasn't quite doing it right. First gear was all right, but second kicked in a little late, and I felt a slip when third came around. So, I decided it was time for a moment of truth. What I ultimately ended up doing was tightening the bands to the recommended torque (in this case 72 inch lbs) and then slowly backing them off until I felt them let go, Then I put the proper torque on the locknuts (in this case 30 ft lbs).
Now, this tranny has two bands and a clutch pack, it has the low-reverse (rear) band, and the Kickdown(forward) band, and I believe the clutch pack is used to engage 3rd gear, because the rear band gives you 1st and rev, and the kickdown band gives you 2nd. After my ultimate adjustments, the kickdown band DID drag just a little for about a minute, but she quickly worked herself into a state where she's shifting better and accelerating better than she ever has before.
I'm amazed by this thing. I'm wondering if the kickdown band lets off when you hit 3rd gear? I know that when I feel the first kick, it's the KD band grabbing the front drum, which gives me second, but I'm wondering if it pulls simultaneously as third gear kicks in, or whether it stays tight against the drum?
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I had recently purchased a 2003 golf gti AUTOMATIC (with optional shifter) with a 1.8 turbo 4 cylinder engine. The vehicle has 139,000 miles on it. Before purchasing, I had a mechanic come out and look at the vehicle for a pre-purchase inspection, and ran the code P0303 (cylinder 3 misfire) which without test driving, told me that is what caused the shift shudder I noticed when I had test driven it a previous day. He told me the coil packs were in good condition by looking at the top of them, and told me if I replace the spark plugs, the issue should go away.
I feel it is important to mention that he had also run codes on the transmission and nothing came up. Taking it home, this morning I had replaced the spark plugs and driven it for about an hour both regularly and aggressively to test it. The problem is still there, and I was really hoping that there is a solution to this problem, because everything else on the car is beautiful, while being my dream car, I just want it to work as well as I know it can. To be more descriptive, when shifting to 3rd the whole car feels basically like it is tripping over itself before successfully shifting.
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the headlights stopped working on my 94 shadow. I replaced the headlight switch (on the dash, not the multi switch on the steering column) and they worked again... until I was about 15 minutes into a 30 minute drive @ 2 AM. The lights went out (headlights, dash lights, everything) and came right back on. They flickered several more times and after I move the switched, stay on for the remainder of the drive. i figured there was just a bad spot in the switch (it seemed dependent on the dimmer position at first). It turns out that it seems to do this at the same point in the drive every night independent of the switch position, speed, engine revs, bumps. the only thing that seems to make a difference is the time before flickering is shorter when I use my brights. I should also point out that my speedo has always stopped working @ about the same time frame if I have the headlights & vent fan both on....
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We have a 2004 Aviator AWD. 73k miles. Trans has been shuddering on the upshift to OD intermittantly. No codes no other symptoms.
I dropped the pan, replaced the filter and 5-6 quarts of fluid with Mercron V fluid. No metal in pan, fluid was not burned, filter only had a small amount of dirt. Very small amount (fine dust)of metal on the magnet. Drove it about 50 miles and noticed the shudder again this morning. I planned on replacing the fluid in the pan again after some miles and time so as to get most of the 12 or so quarts replaced.
I have no codes or CEL. No flashing OD light either...
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My 2011 ISF has around 50K miles. Recently I noticed that when I shift into 1st from 2nd, usually on approach to a slower curve or slowing down to a light, there appears to be a distinct shudder. It doesn't happen all the time, and it happens regardless of Sport or normal mode.
Right after it shifts to 1st and the RPMs climb (or so it seems), I get 3-4 distinct back and forth movements .. i.e shudder. I think this is a recent phenomenon, as I know shifting into 1st is usually not very smooth, but I don't think I felt this shudder before.
No codes etc ...everything else normal. Don't think the trans is slipping, as car pulls hard and traction control is always busy. Motor mounts? Car is never tracked and driven spiritedly, but never ever abused or tracked. I do enjoy shifting it.
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I have an 06 FX4 5.4 with the Evolution programmer. I am bringing the truck to Ford tomorrow to trade it in. I took out the programmer after returning the truck to the stock power level. Now the rear end has a wicked shudder when shifting, especially going first to second and much worse under heavy acceleration. The dealership drove the truck before I returned it to stock so the deal is made but if they drive it even a few hundred yards on the lot they will definitely notice it. I reprogrammed it to level 2 and the shudder is gone, but they told me to take the Edge out so what the heck should I do.
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I recently had my 1991 Dodge D250 with a 5.9L gas engine serviced and they recommended an internal engine cleaning with a machine they hook it up to for $160. The truck does burn and leak oil and they said it would work for both. I have seen videos on the internet with an HHO machine that some people swear by and others calling it a scam. Can it cause damage? I also saw videos of putting water in the intake with similar comments that it works.
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I have 142k miles on my 2005 RX330 AWD. This week I can feel the transmission slip/shudder when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear.
My local transmission guy is pretty reasonable but like most salesmen he's going to say rebuild it the entire transmission in lou of something less invasive.
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My 1991 Volvo 240 with automatic transmission suddenly stopped shifting out of first. No warning. Fluid level is good.
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I have a 1991 Dodge Dynasty with a 3.3 Liter engine & the serpentine belt keeps coming off. I have replaced the belt,idler pulley & belt tensioner. When the road is wet or winter slush (it happened once in dry hot weather) the belt will ride off.
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I just picked up my 2016 4 cylinder Camry 2 weeks ago and have 1000 miles on it. I noticed that sometimes when it shifts it shifts a little bit rough, not sure if I would call it a jerk or shudder but its more pronounced to the point I can feel the shifts. Is this normal for this transmission or is this something I should have checked out?
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I have a 03 f150 2wd with the 4.6l. Recently it has been slow shifting into reverse(about 2 full seconds) and when it finally gets in reverse it shudders when it comes under load. The fluid is full and not burnt...
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My son has a 2013 Fx4 crew cab 4X4 ecoboost with 8500 miles. He says in the morning for the first couple of miles while accelerating gradually the trucks shudders when shifting gears. After a few miles it goes away. Dealer says they can't do anything endless he can duplicate the condition. He went out of town for a few days and left me the truck so I'll drive it in the morning and see what it does.
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My 1992 F-250 7.3 4X4 has a very intermittent issue with the E40D. Rarely, usually after a lot of around town driving (I don't know if that has any direct correlation), I will get a rough shift from 1-2. It will kind of bang into gear and make the whole truck shudder.
On one of it's episodes, it also did it in 2-3, however that only happened once and I haven't been able to make it do that again. I'm worried that it's something that I should address, if I can do so without just rebuilding the whole transmission. It doesn't slip and shifts fine most of the time, other than the occasional 1-2 issue.
To cut this short, does this sound like a 1-2 accumulator issue? Maybe just old truck syndrome? I feel like this is a dumb as hell question, but isn't it a bad idea to install a shift kit in an E40D with 126K miles on it?
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I have a 1991 bronco with a 351w and the e4od trans.. The transmission is shifting late and hard and sometimes when i let off of the gas to slow down it shifts between gears up and down by itself... The only lights on the dash that are on is the Rear Anti-lock brake light and the speedometer is not working either.. Where to start the trouble shooting to fix it?
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I have a 2010 Camry 2.5 liter with 150k miles. I have begun to notice a shudder around 30-45 mph during normal acceleration. It does not happen during a hard acceleration. As I watch the rpm's when the car shifts the shudder happens after the rpm's drop when the car is engaging in the next gear. After some research I'm led to believe I have a failing torque converter. If it is the torque converter can just the converter itself be replaced or does the whole transmission need to be replaced.
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So here I am with my 1996 Dodge grand caravan that I purchased new in 1995 for a whopping 30k. Yeah hind site is 20/20 skip forward to mile 102k transmission fails completely. Had to have it towed in to shop, rebuilt tranny put in... skip ahead another 4 years to mile 173k and transmission fails again. Again on a tow truck to the shop and ANOTHER tranny rebuild. So now I am at mile 182k and transmission is making a horrible shudder and I have moved across the country away from original shop that did last trans repair (who says they only warranty if I come back to them) and I am possibly looking at another repair or replacement. What is the deal with these vans?
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When I drive the 1991 Stealth for an extended period - more than 50 miles, at least, the car intermittently presents a loud rotational banging sound from the passenger side front end. If I depress the clutch peddle and decelerate, it slows down/stops. It is not a continous noise, and it only comes up every so many months. I have taken it to mechanics numerous times, and there have been guesses/fixes to address the problem, but it is still ocurring. Other than this, the car is in great shape and runs great!
Here is what has been done to the car that is relevant:
New Rack and Pinion Steering,
New Tie Rod(s),
New Brake Pads, Transmission Rebuilt, valve re-work.
It does not happen continuously, so it does not seem like it would be a CV joint., When it first starts to come on it is noticed most when turning. But then it gets louder and just does it even when going straight. When the problem first started happening, the transmission had been done within a month or two prior, and I noticed one of the transmission bolts was missing (front center bottom). I was told at that time this was not the issue and since the place where the bolt goes in was stripped, nothing cold be done to replace the bolt, except to take out and replace the entire mount.
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91 Dodge D150 1/2 ton truck with a 318 (5.2L). Approx. 135K miles. Noticed a leaking freeze plug right behind the starter. Removed the starter & replaced the offending plug. I've also replaced other plugs on the block as needed in the past. While I had the starter out, I went ahead and replaced it as it was getting old & tired. After buttoning everything up while adding coolant, I got a major waterfall coming out between the trans and the engine block.
My project for today is to remove the transmission so I can get to the rear plugs and replace. How many plugs are back there? I'm obviously changing all the plugs back there along with the rear main seal. Is there any advantage going with the brass plugs or should I just stick with the regular ones?
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I am getting a code 36 which tells me it is "air switch solenoid switch". I am not sure what that is indicating or what it means. Is this something I can fix?
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