Dodge - Ram2500 :: 1996 - Won't Go Into Park And Cannot Get Key Out Of Ignition
Nov 21, 2011
I know the not going into park and key wont come out are related but not sure what to do about it.96 Dodge Ram V-10 I was told about 120000 miles I haven't looked .....
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I bought this truck about 8 months ago, and replaced the EVAC system right off. Now, it's doing this thing where, when driving uphill, it chugs and makes a loud metal clunking sound. Also, as I slow, it tries to accelerate on its own (with my foot on the brake), and if I sit for too long at a stop (idling), it dies. Starts right up again, but it sucks having to start my truck on the freeway in slow/stopped conditions. Is it my fuel pump or my transmission?
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My 2004 Ram 2500 recently starting making this ticking sound. It only happens when it is in gear and gas pedal is being pressed. Sound like it's coming from the gas pedal area on the other side of the firewall.
While driving, if step on the gas hard, the ticking sound would also trigger a metal vibrating sound. It sounds like a very stiff piece of metal is vibrating, not a loose heat shield sound.
I can't step on the gas in gear and look in the engine or under the truck at the same time. And I also don't think it would be wise to do that. The thought of being under my truck while it is in gear and gas is being applied is not a safe or smart thought.
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my 2001 dodge ram wipers quit suddenly in the upmost position. Then restarted, went back down and immediately quit in the halfway up position, right in front of my face. Of course, it was raining. I pulled over, pushed them down by hand (no action from the wiper switch on any setting). Checked 25 amp fuse in the dashboard fusebox. That looked OK.
Heard on a forum about the wiper relay (or relays, possibly?) under the hood. Bought a relay at NAPA., replaced it; still no response. The only other odd thing is that about 3 times, the ABS light on the dash has flashed (for a second) but brakes are in top shape & all other electric lights/switches work fine. The windshield washer works fine.
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I have a '96 Dodge Stratus that keeps blowing fuse #20, which is for the fuel pump and the ignition. How to isolate the problem? This happens as soon as the key is turned on. The car has 140,000 miles and runs excellent otherwise.
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Intermittent fuel pump problems in '96 Dodge ram resulted in new fuel pump 50,000 miles ago. Happened again 100 miles ago, so another new fuel pump. Now to start car must turn the ignition on several times before going to the start position. It appears the latest new pump may have defective one way check valve, so the pressure is depleting after turn off. Any favorite brand of fuel pump for the Dodge "pump in the gas tank" arrangement? Or solutions such as installing an external pump to do the work of pumping the fuel?
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I have an 04 Touareg. The key turns on and off fine car runs great DIC has message return shifter to park position to remove key.. Appears to be in Park only key will not remove........
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96 Taurus 3.0 liter OHV will not shift out of Park. I tried the workaround in the owners manual where you take the key out, re-insert it, turn it to the OFF position then start car in neutral, but shifter still will not come out of Park. Fuse #5 is fine, and all my brake lights work. Steering wheel is not locked.
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I backed out of the drive way with My 96 Dodge Intrepid yesterday and when I put it in drive I noticed the CEL came was on. Seemed like it came on with in a few seconds of driving forward. I was driving slow as that is what is called for in my neighborhood and all seemed ok. About 2 minutes later when I was going about 40 I noticed the Tach was at about 3k. I seems it will not shift into 3rd. I moved the shift lever several times and it did not seem to impact anything. I immediately drove home and used my other car to go to my appointment. It did seem to shift fine other than that.It never got to warm so I did not check the fluid but I did check it a few days earlier and it was ok. We had snow the previous day and I would have noticed any leaks on the drive way, which I did look for, and did not find any.
I know I need to get the CEL read. I need to drive about 10 miles to get somewhere to do that. Is there anything else I can check or try before hand? My guess is it is an electrical issue as it happened fast with out any warning. I don't have a lot of experience with transmissions but my guess is it is a solenoid not working. It may be fried or it is not getting a signal. Possibly VSS or something in the powertrain module or what every they call it in Chrysler world?
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I have a 96 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 5.2L pickup that wont start. I have replaced fuses, starter, ignition switch, tumbler. it still wont run. i can craw under it with 2 screwdriver and start it by touching hot wire and trigger wire. I have hooked it to a diagnostics machine and it said idle air was bad and I replaced that too...
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My Car is stuck in the ignition, the display show please put in park. The key cannot take out. The dealer replace the dash board and have no success. Car in shop for 10 days already. There was another Touareg that had the same problem.
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I saw there was a service bulletin for this problem but could not access the bulletin. What can I do to tighten this mirror up.It does not have a screw just a clip. I tried bending the clip but no dice. Can I wedge something in there to tighten it up? This is the one on the windshield.
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I have a 1996 Ford Taurus. With the headlight in the OFF position and the ignition off, key OUT, the headlights stay on. All other lights are off. The highbeam indicator in the cluster stays on also. I've disconnected the headlight switch (completely removed from vehicle), and the headlights still stay ON! I know absolutely nothing about this car.
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My 96 Metro for some reason is popping the 15 amp ignition fuse randomly. First time it happened I disconnected the alternator and replaced the fuse and it got me home. Pulled the alternator and had it tested and it tested fine. Put it back in and everything worked for about a month. It popped the fuse again while driving down the road. I disconnected the alternator again but this time the fuse still blew. I disconnected the coil replaced the fuse turned on the key and the fuse did not pop. I reconnected everything and it worked fine. Hasn't repeated itself in a week. I think there is a short somewhere. Just can't find it.
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My engine has 2 ignition coils, and b went bad, but which one is b. ?
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Have a 2002 Dodge Dakota automatic. This winter when temps. dropped into lows 10s and zero degree weather, the Dodge truck would start,but would not come out of park gear. Have replaced interlock solenoid and brake light switch. Still have same problem when Temperature drops into low 10s &below. Otherwise,everything ok. (not using ER brake).
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I have had this truck in 3 different shops and none of them could figure it out. The codes say misfire in cyl 2 and 5 bank 1 too lean and primary and secondary circuits malfunctioning for ignition coil. I've replaced the ign coil cap, plugs,plug wires, rotor, pcv, fuel pump, pick up coil, cat, o2 sensors and all sensors under the hood. Switched out all vacuum lines, cleaned the IAC and checked the pulse ring. The truck loses all power and either dies or backfires and regains power randomly. If I drive at night, it will stall and keep cranking when trying to restart. Usually have to let it sit for ten minutes for it to turn back over. Last night it backfired and stalled every 50 ft for over a mile. During the day, it revs up and down at idle by about 100 rpms.
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The 96 Caravan I bought a year ago came equipped with an aftermarket dent in the oil pan. It's a bent up generally flat, not all at one point, but there's no leak and no other apparent problem, though of course it does reduce the oil capacity. When I had some overdue warranty work done at a dealer, the service writer told me the dent is exactly where the the oil pickup is, which mostly sounded like the dealer looking for some extra work. I decided I'd replace the pan myself when I had enough miles on the car to see if it was worth the effort.
The pan has a lower sump area that measures roughly 5" x 7" and that entire portion is pushed up somewhat evenly. I'd estimate the deepest part of the deformation is almost an inch, so less than 35 cubic inches lost capacity. 35 cu in = .606 quart.
I can buy a new oil pan w/ gasket at Rock Auto for a shade over fifty bucks to add to an order I otherwise need to place with them. A used pan at the local junkyard would cost ten or twenty bucks plus my labor plus the gasket, which I judge as not enough cheaper to be worth my time and inconvenience (they want me to capture the used oil and take it with me). So it's either buy the new oil pan, or fix something else. Or pull the pan, bend it back to shape, and replace the gasket? It appears to me that the pan gasket may be seeping, though not enough to drip, so it's probably due for a gasket anyway.
Should I care about this, or learn to love the dent?
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My 96 caravan started misfiring and then it clears ..and then it misfires.. if I get on the highway it clears after a mile or so.. and stays running smooth till I stop and shut it of , thought i got water in the tank but that was 2000 Miles ago ....it's old but it's My work truck...
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So my 96 Dodge Dakota's instrument lights went out a couple days ago, I thought it was just a fuse, so naturally I check all the fuses. Come to find out they're all fine, I replaced a few to see if maybe it was just an old fuse. Still nothing. Then last night I noticed that the instrument lights came on between off and on for the lights. So I assume its a wiring problem. Then as I drove down the road I hit a bump and all the lights went off then kicked back on. Needless to say I can't drive around with lights that won't stay on. Where should I check for the cause of this problem?
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96 dodge intrepid, 3.5. Few yrs back kid flooded it at -10f. I changed wet plugs and it started. Ran ok for 10miN, idled fine .n than I drove it 10 miles and it would not idle. I was 150mi from home and kept going. Car ran so-so. Seemed sluggish at 60mph. Exhaust actually made black/soot stain on bumper. My mileage on hwy was about 1/2 normal. I pulled plugs when I got home and they were black. Took about 1 week of driving to eventually settle down. Never did find any reason for issue. Some said my o2 sensors were buggy. I never changed them and had car for 2 more yrs and it ran great. Why it would not idle?
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