Dodge - Ram1500 :: 1994 - Won't Crank Unless Floored The Accelerator At Normal Temp?
Jul 20, 2013
I have a 1994 Dodge RAM 1500, v8, 5.2 liter truck. A few months ago, I noticed that when it's at normal temperature, it would not crank unless I floored the accelerator. Once it cranked, it was hard to keep it idling at a constant RPM. I have to rev it up a lot to finally get it to idle by itself or to put it in Drive to move. Once it's moving, everything seems pretty good. If I stop and change gears (Park, for example), it will stall. I have also noticed this happening if I'm in Park, then turn on the air conditioning putting a load on the engine, it will stall.
When the engine is cold (sitting for several hours), it cranks fine and runs fine.
I have replaced the idle air control (IAC) valve, the throttle position sensor, the MAP sensor, the Crank sensor between the motor and the transmission (what a pain to replace), the O2 sensor upstream of the catalytic converter, and the computer (with a used one from a salvage yard. And, I had a mechanic check out the distributor cap and it's internals and do whatever he did.
I did read somewhere that the coolant temperature sensor may be an issue?
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When my truck is cold, I have to turn the key two or three times to get it to start. By that I mean I turn the key, turn it all the way off, and turn it again until the engine starts. The first two times, it doesn't crank or make any noise at all, but the radio and dashboard lights come on. I got the truck in May and it hasn't done this all summer.Also, if it idles at a red light when it is cold, it will stop running and I have the same problem as above when I try to re-start it.There is also a smell of burning rubber in the cab once it has warmed up.
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I have a 1994 dodge ram reg cab short bed 2 wheel dr with a 5.2. When i first start the truck in the morning or after it has set for 5 or 6 hours it spits sputters and pops and backfires tries to die and is undrivable for about 15 mins. then its like you flip a switch and it just smooths out and runs great you can cut it off for 2 or 3 hours and it still starts and runs fine! Then the real funny part is after it smoothes out it runs great until i turn left it dies i can turn right and it's fine going around a sharp curve or if i turn hard into a parking place it will just die! i have replaced the pickup coil, dis cap, rotor button, wires and wrought them the specified way, plugs gaped at .035, not platinum, coolant temp sensor, and throttle positon sensor! there is no check engine light on the stored codes are 12 and 37. i am at a loss. This truck has no OBD so i cant see what is happing when it's acting up! i hope this is enough info.
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I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. The starter does not crank at all. I put the key in and turn it and nothing, just a click. I have replaced the starter/solenoid with a new one and I have charged the battery and it is good (battery is only 8 months old). It still does not crank, nothing.
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I have a 2005 Dodge ram 1500 Hemi that has had starting issues for over a year. After sitting for over 30 minutes, it will crank like it is flooded. If I lightly put pressure on the accelerator, it fires right up. It happens with regular or mid grade gas....but seems to happen more when at 1/4 tank or less. It starts normal first thing in the morning or after several hours of sitting. Now along with this, when I turn the key in the ignition, there will be a dead pause, then start cranking. Fuel pump and ignition switch?
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I have a 1988 Dodge pickup 1500 with a 5,9 gas engine. It used to pop right over all the time. Now, in the morning, I have to crank it forever until it starts, and if it sits for 1 hour or more, same thing (have to crank for a long time). It is my understanding there is a valve called a one day valve that holds pressure on the gas line. Is it possible this valve is not working properly? And if so, do I have to replace fuel pump to fix problem? once started it starts up with no problem until it sits for hour or more then hard to start.
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1994 f150 with 4.9L I6; 180k mi.
Parked vehicle last night after using it uneventfully for work the day before. Upon leaving the house at 11:30 AM, I noticed that I'd picked up a new mechanical noise. Nothing major; actually wasn't sure I heard anything at all.
As I drove to the store, I noticed it was idling slightly unsteady...much less so than a missing cylinder. I resolved to check the high-tension connectors when I got home for security. I glanced down at the gauges to check and see if my oil pressure was good; I then noticed coolant temp reading "high normal."
When I got out, I noticed a small pool of coolant forming. I looked at where the puddle was forming...the radiator hose had come off! (Actually separate from the radiator connector, as one might do if draining fluid without using the petcock.) I popped the hood: no unusual smells. Nothing seemed abnormally hot. Placing a finger against the head was uncomfortable, but not painful. Spit expectorated upon the head did not sizzle.
I then called my wife, explaining the situation, and walked back home 2 miles. We then took the spare car, bought antifreeze, and added it about an hour post-shutdown. Where the car was parked seemed wetter than the light drizzle allowed; daubing a finger in it and tasting gave a slight sweet taste.
I tend to check my fluid every so often (not every day, though) and coolant was verified as "full" as recently as 100 miles ago. (I don't make a habit of crawling underneath, though, so I couldn't tell you if hose had been slowly backing off or not.)
As to cause: is it plausible that this could happen without foul play? There have been a few vandalism incidents in the neighborhood; it's also possible that I [peeved] off a neighbor recently. I'm not about to go any further than fixing, though, unless there's really no other plausible explanation.
As to the mechanical questions: How much damage was done? Did I "catch it" in time? What is suggested as far as repairs/maintenance? (I was planning on doing a compression test, and keeping a close eye on fluid levels over the next 1,000 miles or so.) Engine sounds completely normal.
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1996 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 L engine. When the outside temp is a good range (50 degrees F & above) there is no problem starting. But when it gets below 40 deg. F and really chilly outside temp, I still have strong battery power, but when I switch on the ignition, I don't hear the normal fuel pump activation swirl sound and does not crank - simply silent click. Then I can wait when the outside temp improves and cranks up no problem.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Ram p/u 4x4 1500 Sport model truck. Last winter I noticed it would come out of 4wd into 2wd while driving. I kept having to put it back into gear, but it would continue to slip out. Then later, when it sat still I tried the other 4x4 gears and it wouldn't move at all into low 4. So I took my foot and shoved it forward and it finally moved into low 4. What is going on with this? It was working just fine and suddenly it started doing this. I have low mileage and the truck looks like new; only 47k miles. Shouldn't be acting up on this low a mileage.
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I've got a 99 dodge ram 1500 sport, with nearly 250k miles logged, and it refused to start up this morning.
It ran fine this past friday, aside from a horrible squealing noise it made. It has power, its getting fuel, and it coughs and sputters like it wants to start, but it refuses. How do I get this thing to come back to life?
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I have a 1994 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 5.2L V8 (and 46RH AT), with 147,000 miles. Here's what I've been noticing over the past few months: when the engine is up to full operating temperature, and the truck is in gear but idling, the oil pressure (according to the oil pressure gauge) gets very low, and in fact, the needle often "bottoms out", going to a reading of "0", and the "dummy light" comes on. When this happens, there's no change whatsoever in how the engine is running; it runs perfectly fine (which is why I haven't bothered to fix it). Also, as soon as the engine is given a little throttle, the pressure reading goes back up and behaves normally under driving conditions (unless at idle). As mentioned, this only happens when the engine is completely warmed up.
I check the oil regularly, and it is always within the acceptable range.
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My 2000 dodge ram 1500 Laramie Won't start, Here's what happened. The truck started just fine the day before, No problem. But when i went to start it today it continuously cranked and when releasing the key It shook as if it tried to start and started to smoke a bit from the engine. I popped the hood and looked around, Seeing smoke coming from the engine, there was also smoke Inside the air cleaner box. What this could be, And how to fix it? This is a big problem as I'm moving in two days!!
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I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 V6 that has been squeaking for a long time now, slowly getting louder and more obnoxious. The belt and belt tensioner were bad so I replaced them, but the squeak was still there. Then I replaced the tensioner pulley, followed by the alternator, but it still squeaks. If the belt is removed and the engine run, there is no squeak. Its very hard to localize where it is coming from - as best I could tell it was coming from the tensioner or the alternator (they are next to each other), but with both of them replaced and nothing else nearby I am at a loss. Looking through some other discussion boards seems like another common problem is the fan clutch. Mine actually went bad 4-5 years ago so I replaced it back then, but this squeak is different than what it was doing back then, so I'm hesitant to replace that again.
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I have a new battery in my 2000 Dodge Ram 1500. The battery becomes dead if the car sits for 2-3 days.The engine easily starts when the battery is jumped. The charge remains for 2-3 days, but then depletes, andthe battery must be jumped again. How do I diagnose what circuit is depleting the battery?
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I have a 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L truck. Originally, there was a squealing sound (which has now turned into chirping) coming from the engine, so I replaced the serpentine belt. That didn't do it. So upon research online, I preceded to check all the pulley wheels for wobble, grinding sounds. The only thing I found of concern was the a/c compressor pulley. It was making a slight grinding sound, so I thought maybe I'll buy a shorter serpentine to bypass the a/c altogether. That didn't fix it.
The chirping only happens when I put the truck in drive or reverse, and increases when I accelerate. Sometimes as I'm driving it'll stop momentarily until I either take my foot off the gas or accelerate even more. I've checked everything I could inside the engine compartment, without taking anything apart. I've had my wife put the truck in gear so that I can try to locate the sound, but I've had no luck. I don't want to take the truck in, until I can identify the problem, and maybe even fix it myself.
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My Ram truck has started randomly dis-engaging from gear while driving. I've never noticed it when the trans. is cold. It doesn't slip; when it works its fine. When it drops out of gear, its instant and acts like its in neutral. It will re-engage, after a number of seconds goes by and I feather the throttle a bit. It started when I was at highway speed, but now will do it in about any gear. Is this a common problem, and could it be electrical? I've replaced the filter, checked the fluid (looks fine), and pulled a cooler line and it has plenty of pressure. The truck also has an enormous trans. cooler added to it, and it has 155,000 miles. 1996 Ram 1500 4x4, 360 auto transmission...
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Truck is a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab, 2 wheel drive, automatic transmission. When I press down on the gas pedal and accelerate, an audible squeaking noise is made in the rear of the truck. It sounds like it is coming from somewhere near the rear axle or wheels. The sound is a high pitched metallic squeak, as if metal parts are rubbing against each other. The noise only occurs when I am accelerating. While accelerating, if i momentarily take my foot off the gas pedal, the noise stops. Also, once a constant steady speed has been reached the noise stops. Also, the truck makes the same noise when accelerating in reverse.
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I own a 2004 Dodge Ram automatic transmission with tow package. I use the truck fro getting around and moving light loads from here to there, nothing heavy. About two months ago I started to notice a whining sound coming from the rear. I did not pay too much attention to it at first, but it has gotten louder lately. It is most prevalent at speeds above 35 mph. I have tires that are 1 year old and the transmission is two years old. Mechanics have told me the truck is fine but I am concerned! Should I seek a second opinion or am I just being an overprotective of my truck...
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I have a 2004 Grand Prix and it is displaying the symptoms of overheating but the temp gauge is not going above normal operating temp. I replaced the thermostat twice, and after driving for about 10-20 mins coolant comes out of the overflow. I'm at a loss, I'm thinking temp sensor(?) But I don't want to keep throwing unnecessary money into it. The fans work fine, the heater blows as it should.
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I just bought a 98 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Of course it didn't do this when we test drove it, but as soon as we put the money down the problem started. When you start the truck, the interior lights start blinking. I thought it was a door ajar warning, but after testing the doors, it doesn't stop blinking.
Sometimes it will stop when you put it in gear, sometimes it starts again. some times it stops for a few seconds and then starts again. So far it has always stopped blinking after we have driven for a little while. It seems like it will sometimes stop when I fiddle with the 4 wheel drive shifter.
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Once again, my '94 Camry scared the bejeezus out of me, by reving out of control. I was driving a mountainous back road and all of a sudden the car was doing 40 mph on it's own. It was ROARING out of control so badly that I had to shut the car off in Drive. I would get out, pull the linkage back to an idle then start the car and, without touching the gas proceed on my way home. This kept up, until I had a very steep incline to go down. I kept the car in low, and kept touching the brakes. Then, I was smelling my brakes, and decided to just stop and, hopefully, someone would come by with some tools! And they did.......
To make a long story short, I got a 10mm wrench and took the cover off the box that (I think) holds the cruise control and throttle cables. It has sand and dirt all over the guides, springs, and throttle cables. I sprayed it with WD40, kept moving them, and it loosened up nicely. Then I drove the rest of the way home w/o incident.
THis morning, I cleaned all the oil and crud out and was going to blast it w/PB spray, and thought I would ask here if perhaps silicone would work better for me. I live on a dirt road, and there is always a lot of sand around that sticks to anything oily. Wouldn't silicone lubricate equally well, w/o the stickiness that all this sand and dirt sticks to????
(Oh, I checked and cleaned the throttle housing with an old toothbrush and carb cleaner too, but it was the cables in the covered box area that was the problem.)
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