Dodge - Ram :: Surging Under Load At About 1500 RPMs
Apr 6, 2011
I have a 1994 dodge ram 2 wheel drive with a 318. Idles fine but when put under a load it starts surging and bucking at about 1500 rpms. Idles at 1500 no problem only under a load...
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The car is an '05 elantra, 97,000 miles, auto., car is new to me. First time on the freeway today, 30 miles @75-85 mph, at the end of the off ramp I could feel it surging, shift to neutral rpm's went to 1500, hoss the gas and back to normal. On the return trip off ramp, went to neutral, jab the gas, everything OK. I'm going to clean the throttle blade, check things, etc.
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I have a 06 f350 with 5.4 140k miles. Recently it has been shaking bad on idle but only in gear and it's hard to start when cold. The exhaust is moist at all times and the fluids never leak. When you floor it it hesitates feels like it's overly rich but if you let off a little it stars to pull again. Also while cruising at 1500-1700 rpms in any gear it will surge and skip. Only time it will miss and the CEL comes on is over 4000 rpms for a random misfire. Just put new coils in new fuel pump and filter. There has always been a cat code but it never effected the drivability. Could it be injectors?
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I have a 2010 Dodge RAM Hemi Laredo pickup. Love it. Currently 34k miles. Have kept up with all maintenance. Since about 3k miles, I have intermittently heard a "grinding" noise at about 1400-1500 rpm. Usually while accelerating going up hill/inclines. Assumed it had to do with automatic gear shifting. Have reported this to dealer maintenance folks at each visit. They have reportedly not been able to identify the source, as they claim they do not hear it, despites numerous test drives. Everyone who drives with me has heard it!. I am concerned, as at 36k my full coverage for the transmission warranty expires. Incidentally, at 33,100 miles 2 broken studs were extracted from right exhaust manifold. A new exhaust manifold gasket and 2 new studs were replaced for a different niose. Are these related, or any clue about the "grinding" that I still frequently hear at 1400-1500 rpms?
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I have a 2002 Accent 1.6L 72K miles, idle surging between 1500 - 2500 rpm after stopping from 50 mph, (with Code P0121) replaced TPS - No Luck . I reset the DTS error codes, ran it with a new TPS and same exact problem, Code P0121 came back, and surging continued, this happens when I decelerate from high speed- 50 mph or so and it will not go to normal idle, surges between 1500 and 2500 rpm when in park.
If I give the throttle pedal a good kick, the problem goes away, and it idles fine, nice and smooth and at normal rpm, the DTS code will clear, and stays cleared, mil light goes out. It almost seems like something is sticking, I know its not the throttle itself because when I do a live data, the TPS shows "0", if I manually push the throttle shaft closed at the throttle body, it is fully seated shut, so I know its not a sticking cable or anything. Can a sticking MAF sensor cause this? Maybe what I'll try tomorrow is rapping the throttle body with a rubber mallet while its surging, maybe something is not returning to its normal position in there.
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I have a 99 f250 that seems like it has a bad coil, under a load it starts surging or bumping ( like it has in the past and I found a bad coil), I went through and unplugged each coil one by one while idling, couldn't find a bad one, so I bought a new coil and went through and rotated the coils, nothing worked, no check engine lights on.
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About a week ago I noticed my 2012 II felt more noticeable when the electric motor would assist. I thought it was temperature related as it got really cold here in MO. But tonight on my way home I had the cruise set at 50mph and I had the same issue. This time I changed the monitor screen to see when the electric motor was kicking in. However the electric motor was not working and it felt like the RPMs were surging up and down radically and for no reason. My car is still under warranty but I can not make it do it on command so I fear the dealership will not find it.
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2 wks ago I was running down I95 at about 95-100 mph (basically floored) in a rush to get somewhere on time. Since then my truck has been running for crap. It threw the p0171 code when I checked it. When driving under normal conditions it pings a lot and my mpg is down about 3 mpg and has this hesitation when you get on it. Even when you accelerate at a normal rate it surges a little, it pings a lot and has a loss of power, about 30-40%. It feels really sluggish and doesnt want to pull and then you will feel it starting to pull a little harder then it starts to surge/hesitate a little again.
Truck has 147k on it. I was having a similar situation until I had the plugs replaced at 125k, so I figured the plugs shouldn't be the problem. So I replaced the fuel and air filters, cleaned the maf w/maf cleaner and Throttle body w/tb cleaner and replaced the pcv with a new one from ford. Still pings bad under load and still has the hesitation/surging and crappy fuel economy. Its running smoother but no fix yet. This is crazy trying to pinpoint this issue. The detonating isnt crappy gas because I used super and it still detonates quite a bit.
Its a 06' F250 5.4 3V XLT Lariat SC FX4....
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Got a problem with my R. 134k miles. About 4 months ago I had similar problems and was told it was a bad MAF. Of course wasn't covered by my warranty, so I decided to just give it a good cleaning and car ran fine up till now. Just started doing the same thing today. Doesn't want to idle, taking off is really hesitant then it just goes. Trans seems like it is struggling to find the correct gear sometimes when coming to a stop or taking off, sometimes jerks hard, maybe throttle position sensor, or idle control? Once you are moving it drives fine, only very low speeds and idling are the problem. Trying to avoid going to the dealership. What this could be? MAF need cleaned again or just replaced?
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My 2001 BMW 325Ci has an occasional "surging" idle problem. When coming to a stop or at idle, the engine will rev between 500 and 1000 rpm's. Sometimes it will correct the problem and idle normally, or keeps surging until it eventually stalls. When restarted it works fine. Tried fuel injector treatment, fuel stabilizer treatment, and replaced thermostat. Still surges about 50% of the time. Had it to a dealer, and computer says its running fine.
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I have a 2007 Chev Colorado PU (automatic) and whenever I use the brake to come to a stop my rpms surge from 500 to 1000 - both visually on the tach and you can feel it also. When the truck is stoped it returns to noral (750). accelerates fine - shifts fine - fuel economy is a bit down.
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Ok so a little back story, I have CEL codes 17748 & 17755 which basically tell me that I have a stretched timing chain. That being said, others say they have the same codes and their car runs like a champ and makes full power. Not sure the truth to that but whatever. Regardless, I don't know how a stretched chain would cause a sudden surge of power at certain rpm, but I do not know the ins and outs of this engine and ECU.
So, for some reason my car feels fine when driving around at low rpms, but when I take it above 3000 rpm or so with mild throttle, it feels a little weak. Now if I am giving it moderate throttle, once I hit the 3000 rpm range, all of the sudden I can hear my intake get louder and there is a sudden surge of power. Furthermore, it feels to me like as the rpms get higher, like over 4500-5000 range, the car feels pretty weak. I am not sure how the car should feel though because this problem has been like this since I bought it. I am pretty sure it's not making full power though.
I can see how stretched chains could lead to being out of timing which could mean low power up top, even though I don't know why the variable cam gears couldn't make up for this.. but what's up with this power surge thing?
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2004 Santa Fe .... 2.7 6 Cyl 4WD 150k miles
Recently I started experiencing RPMs surging upon startup and driving before my engine warms up. The problem has gotten worse to where I push on the accelerator the RPMs jump to 2700 and the transmission feels like it disengages. My initial thought was the tranny was going bad and slipping. I checked the fluid level in the T and found it was maybe a half Qt. low. I topped it off, but this had no impact on the problem. On a side note, I am able to use the manual shifting feature on the "His and Hers" Shifter and drive the vehicle without any issue. Transmission works fine in manual. The surging RPMs which only occur in Automatic mode, triggered the CEL and I got a code of P0123 which is high side voltage on the Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced the gray TPS with a new black one.
Upon startup the RPMS jumped to 3000 just sitting in Park. I disassembled and reinstalled figuring I had something bound in the throttle. After reassembly the idle went up to 2200, still no good! I reinstalled the original gray TPS and the RPMs, upon starting, RPMs were 1500 with the old sensor...still too high. I did reset the ECU twice during the process of putting in the new sensor and reinstalling the old sensor. Right now I found that when I disconnect the TPS electrical connector, the engine runs normal. It starts right up with the TPS totally disconnected and idles at 750 RPMs! It will not shift to 2nd gear though, when I try to drive it in Automatic Mode. I can however drive in Manual Mode and drive normal and shift right through the gears. Who needs automatic mode right?!!!
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So my 20th AE has been wrecked. But here is the issue, the car will idle for a about 30 seconds to a minute but surge from 1500 rpms to around 750. But after that, it won't idle. If I let it sit for a couple of days, then it will idle for a little bit then die again.
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I own a is350 been having this problem. I drive the car get home put it in park and rps go to 1500 and stay there feels like my idle stays high...
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I bought this used Dodge Ram pickup. It looks like there were a few scratches in the paint and somebody hit it with some spray paint. It doesn't look horrible, but it would sure be nice to have a nice shiny uniform finish to it. I hit it with some rubbing compound and a lot of elbow grease. There is nice looking paint underneath. I just wonder is there a faster way to take that spray paint off? I'll be at it with a month with the rubbing compound. Maybe a fine sandpaper? I just don't want to damage the factory paint.
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My '03 7.3 is "surging" on idle. When warmed up, and idling, the RPMs will drop by 300 or 400 for a few seconds and then will correct and shoot back up. It cycles like this (every 5 seconds-ish) continually . I just put in a new IDM and checked the UVCH - is there a separate idle control mechanism that I need to have a look at? (2003, 7.3, 214K, stock).
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I've got a 2012 GLS manual with about 400 miles that now has a noise that concerns me. At just over 1500 rpms there is a rattling noise that sounds like its coming from the rear and underneath the vehicle. It sounds like metal vibrating. I think it could be the exhaust but I am not sure. It didn't do it on the test drive and it is fairly intermittent.
What it could be and if it might be normal? Should I take it in and get it checked out or would that be a waste of time?
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So my car started doing some weird things. at idle and only at idle it will go up and down between 1100 and 1500 rpm. No throttle input no clutch input or brake input. I do have a CEL on but when I read the code it gives me 01314 on brake electronics setting. I'm using a vchecker pro. I go into all the engine brake airbag and trans menus and do clear fault codes and this fixes it but id like to know what the actual problem is.
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My 1990 Honda Accord just recently started sputtering and shaking a bit when I reach 1500 rpms, if I'm under that she's fine and if I accelerate passed that she is fine.
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No codes showing up but my dodge is stalling out on me when i come to a stop sign or red light. When I first start it up and go somewhere it is fine but once the truck warms up it starts doing this. Have put it on a computer and nothing shows up. It has a v8, the smaller one.
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