My dodge truck won't start. I replaced the fuel filter and that cured it for a week then it would't start again.Took it to a mech. and they scaned it with there computer and diagnosed it as a lift pump issue as the pressure was a bit low. Replaced the pump and that worked for 4 days, now it won't start again.
View 1 RepliesMy truck wouldn't start so i replaced the fuel filter and it ran fine for a week than wouldn't start again. Took it to a mech, who ran all the computer codes and scans on it and came up with a lift pump pressure problem. Replaced the pump and it ran for 4 days, now it doesn't start again. They said the injection pump was fine.
View 2 RepliesLooking at a 2002 Dodge Diesel 5.9 TURBO 3/4 ton pickup. There is an oil leak on the drivers side that you can see if you look over the tire, that the owner says comes from an overflow out of the oil pan. Never heard of it. Owner says it loses about 1/2 qt. oil at every change at 3,000 miles. Do I need to run real fast??
View 7 Replies2002 Dodge Diesel PU ... At about 125000 miles a slight vibration appeared and has progressively gotten worse. Now at 177000 it comes on at 60 mph and is pretty bad. I've replaced tires, shocks, hub bearings, u-joints and locator bars, all to no avail. The tires show no unusual wear and the drive shaft(s) u-joints appear good. I'm not the only one with this problem but Dodge denies any knowledge of it's occurrence.
View 5 RepliesMy 98 dodge ram 2500 was running and now the gauges don't work and the fuel pump isn't working either, I have checked and replaced fuses and relays with no luck ...
View 3 RepliesMy 2009 Dodge Ram 2500 with diesel engine, intermittently makes a noise similar to the sound knobby tires make. It also sounds similar to the exhaust brake, but louder. A vibration accompanies the noise. Two mechanics (one a tire expert, one at a Dodge dealer) test drove it and examined it on their racks and said it's the right front wheel bearing/hub assembly. I replaced that, despite not hearing or feeling any problem when rotating the wheel by hand. I've examined all tires and turned the wheels by hand while listening for odd sounds or roughness, and examined all drive shafts and joints which have not apparent problem, to no avail. When this issue first started, I heard a sound like rubber squeaking while driving at very low speed, especially in reverse.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 Chevy K2500 with a 350 engine. 220,000 miles. It starts fine when cold and drives fine. My problem is when I shut the engine off say to get gas or run into a store. When I return to start the truck it will just crank over as if it is not getting gas. If I pump the gas pedal it will fire up after a bit. It will start to stall if I put it into drive but will recover if I continue to pump the throttle. Once I am under way it drives fine until I make another stop. The check engine light is not on.
View 6 Replies2000 V10 with no CEL codes.
Upon start up the motor would rev to 2500 rpm. So I thought IAC.
Unplugged the IAC to rule it in and the motor still reved to 2500 at start up....so naturally I spent an hour looking for a vacuum leak. Did not find one.
By shear dumb luck I decided to double check the IAC. Using a set of visegrips I clamped the intake hose to IAC almost closed. And motor started up and idled at 1000 rpm. I could vary rpm by varying the amount of IAC hose left Un clamped.
So moral of the story is IAC can fail in the open position too. Allowing too much air past valve and high rpm.
Could not find anything about this on a search. I have 2 Sonatas. An 08 and an 09 both are 4cylinders. The 09 was purchased used in June of this year. With the colder weather setting in I have noticed that the 09 when started from cold jumps to 2500 rpm and settles to around 1000rpm for a short time then slows down a bit more to what I think is the normal idle speed. My 08 never goes that high and settles down to a normal idle quicker. If I read correctly the 08 and 09 have different air metering systems. Is this idle thing normal or am I dealing with an issue?
View 7 RepliesI just replaced the auto transmission in my 1988 accord and upon first restart the car will not idle. I has been sitting for about 6 months while I replaced the trans, but was a daily driver prior to that. The car initially starts fine when cold, but shortly after startup starts running very rich and dies. Restart after this requires the throttle pedal to be held down. Engine will start after some cranking - but will not run under 2500 RPM and is obviously very rich. I've rebuild carbs before so I'm thinking about picking up a rebuild kit - just wondering if there could be other parts of the fuel control system that might be at fault.
View 2 RepliesEngine cranks but will not start, it kicks back after cranking over for a couple of times i have replaced the crank sensor it has done this once before it kicked back hard enough to knock a tooth off of the flywheel after replacing flywheel and starter it started fine for three months then it kicked back hard enough to break a starter mounting bolt. i replaced bolt had starter checked and replaced again?
View 6 RepliesMt truck will suddenly die while going down the road. I know it has a oil sensor and wont start or run with oil is low,but recently it just dies in the middle of the road or won't start after a drive of a few miles. After sitting for a few minutes it will usually start. This was happening a couple of times a day until this week when we have had ice and snow, we have been in four wheel drive for four days and it hasn't died or failed to start even once. Whats up with that ?
View 3 RepliesI've got a "new" Blazer -95 4.3 vin W about a month ago. It has run about 170,000 km.
But now it looks like it was a bad buy, it runs bad. The rpm starts jumping between 1500 - 2500. Suddenly the break and ABS warning lights in dashboard lights up, and sometimes all black out and it stalls.
At first it started acting like this when towing a trailer on the highway, doing 80 km/h. But now it does it at any speed.
I just bought a 98 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Of course it didn't do this when we test drove it, but as soon as we put the money down the problem started. When you start the truck, the interior lights start blinking. I thought it was a door ajar warning, but after testing the doors, it doesn't stop blinking.
Sometimes it will stop when you put it in gear, sometimes it starts again. some times it stops for a few seconds and then starts again. So far it has always stopped blinking after we have driven for a little while. It seems like it will sometimes stop when I fiddle with the 4 wheel drive shifter.
I have a 97 Dodge B1500 3.9 V6. It won't start. I've changed; the plugs, Coil, Cam Sensor (bottom of D-Cap), Ignition Switch assembly , Battery, Fuel Pump, and cleaned the IAC.
I have 60 psi Fuel at the rail, Good spark, 130 psi Compression across the board, and no ideas left.
I got a great deal on this van, and I love it, with one exception. On hot days (73 degrees and hotter) the van will not start if it has been parked in the sun; until the temperature returns down to around 61 degrees (usually overnight, but I have waited it out in the parking lot at work a few times).
When this happens, the lights and radio work fine; the starter motor will not engage. No click, no chugga-chugga vroom-vroom. Sad Curto.
Note: October through about May in North Carolina, this car is fine.
I have replaced the steering column (after replacing the clock spring); I have replaced the Power Distribution Center.
When the problem first surfaced two years ago, I had a mechanic install a wire directly from the starter motor relay to the solenoid. That was an expensive lesson. I'm not sure what the lesson is, so it was REALLY expensive.
So, I thought maybe the Auto Shutdown Relay. Nope... pull that out, and the starter still turns, so that is not my problem. Now I am starting to thing Powertrain Control Module, or something else that could have a temperature-sensitive component.
I have a 96 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 5.2L pickup that wont start. I have replaced fuses, starter, ignition switch, tumbler. it still wont run. i can craw under it with 2 screwdriver and start it by touching hot wire and trigger wire. I have hooked it to a diagnostics machine and it said idle air was bad and I replaced that too...
View 2 RepliesMy dad has a 2001 Dodge Dakota extended cab with a 3.9L v6 (standard transmission). It will start and run for a while and it will die, if you turn the key it will start up again but will eventually die. He has changed the spark plugs & wires, the distributor cap & rotor, the MAP sensor, and the throttle valve sensor. It still does the same thing.
View 1 RepliesSo, my oil light comes on after startup like usual then shuts off. Anywhere from 2-5 minutes of the vehicle running light comes back on and does not shut off unless I restart the vehicle. Have changed oil pressure switch and oil pressure is reading in the normal range..
05 dakota with 175000 kilometres
I have a 1984 dodge d150 ramcharger i just bought and it has all sorts of problems I am trying to fix as part of a learning process for me. One problem is it squeals when i first start it when i get on the gas. The faster the rpms the louder the squeal...
View 3 RepliesHere is the history of the car. 1997 Dodge Intrepid, 3.3L V6, close to 200k miles. Bought used 8 years ago.
Engine was replaced by previous owner due to front end accident at 90k (about, memory is fuzz on the full miles). Previous owner was a sales lady and had a repair log. Kept car running like a coo-coo clock since work paid for the maintenance. Her insurance paid for the repair then her work would not continue to pay for upkeep, due to accident. Since I bought the car, I kept in the same frame of mind of maintenance and upkeep.
- Oil is changed regularly and on time (no burning or loss, still filled to levels with synthetic high mileage oil) (Color - maple syrup amber, due to be changed in 500 or so miles)
- Water pump changed 3 months ago (no oil in the res. tank)
- Alt. changed in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Ignition Coil and spark plug wires in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Battery replaced in 2007 with a new one)
- Spark plugs last Feb. (about 10k miles ago - Look semi clean and are all gaped still to the manual specs) as well as the 2 belts on the engine.
(Timing chain same age as the replaced engine at 90k)
- All the instrument panel lights work, as well as head, turn signals, interior and tail.
Has for a long time (4 years or so), has an engine light on for an O2 sensor (Code 0134 and the meter I have).
The exhaust system had disconnected from the Catalytic Converter (engine side) last winter (9 months or so ago) due to weathering (clamps rusted off and pipes separated). Recently I repaired this 2 weeks ago (noting heavy black soot in the pipes and around the area on the underside). Once replaced had a cloud of soot when I floor the gas hard while driving.
Yesterday while driving after 10 mins from home while accelerating I noticed a loss of power (slowing down) instinct was to press the gas, did so, and slowed down even more. Car drifted to a stop, engine power was also gone (power steering was gone also). When this happened, there was No banging, or clunks, or loud sounds, or overtly ominous clouds of smoke. Engine turned off (while costing to a stop the engine acted as if out of gas - hence no power steering). Got a tow home.
The starter turns the engine over with no clatter, banging, or clunks. No backfires or "Coughing". Same sound as of before, but won't catch and run under own power. (Still acts like no gas, but has half a tank) (battery still has a full charge - spark plugs still spark - took one out of engine while still connected to spark plug cable grounded to engine for testing. No overtly heavy gas smell or residue on plug or during test).
My friend who assisted in the exhaust repair says that it is not the Catalytic Converter being clogged (I believe it is). His suggestion is a faulty sensor somewhere else, maybe cam/crank sensor, maybe MAP sensor, maybe ignition switch, bad EGR or even a bad ASD relay. Don't want to be buying parts to no end on this, need other input to narrow down a direction.