Dodge - Ram :: 2002 - Engine Start Shaking / Stalling On Highway
Jan 12, 2014
I have recently picked up this 2002 Ram 1500 quad cab and had the engine rebuilt because it was running rough. 2 weeks later After I'm driving for a bit, the engine starts shaking and feels like it losses compression and dies. It will not start for about 30 minutes and then it starts back up and I can drive for a few miles and it dies again. the longer it sits, the further I can drive. The head shop checked their work on the engine and could find nothing wrong with block or heads. they said the O2 sensors were clogged and replaced those for me. they also looked at the fuel filter and didn't see anything wrong with it.
I needed to know what direction to go from here.. Catalytic converter? Battery? Fuel Pump? I took the truck to the Service Dept at a Dodge Dealership... They checked it out and replaced the after-market O2 sensors with Factory O2 sensors and said it was running fine... As soon as We picked it up, it shut off again not 5 miles from the shop.. The service advisor tells me that his techs are scratching their heads on what could be the cause of this problem. I'm feeling that the problem lies in the fuel system somewhere, but not feeling confident in the dealer service to find my problem...
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When i went out to start my car it would start but then start shaking really bad when i would it the gas it would stall what might this be? i checked the oil and it is very low could this be the problem? 2004 dodge intrepid ....
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My wife has a 2008 Dodge Charge SXT with the 3.5. The front passenger wheel is "shaking/bouncing" at highway speed, but only when turning that direction on a curve. It doesn't do this when turning left. We had the tires replaced, because that was the suggested fix because the tire was "chopped". They were at end of life anyway, past the ware bar. But it didn't work and it seems to be getting worse. One mechanic said he thought it was the wheel hub, another said tie rod. I replaced both front tie rod ends after the passenger one fell out about 18 months ago.
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My wife has a 2002 Volvo S60 that we share with ~165,000 miles on it now. In the last 4-5 years or so, it developed this problem of feeling like the whole engine is shaking when we start it up sometimes. It can go days or even a week where we don't have this problem and then all of a sudden it happens one morning or afternoon, or whenever without any rhyme or reason. While it's shaking, the lights on the dash go in and out with the shaking (going between dim and bright). What also happens right before the shaking sometimes is that the engine will rev itself, like its got a mind of its own, sometimes up to 2000 RPMs, like I am pressing on the gas pedal and holding it, but I'm not! It will stay revved up for a good 10 secs or so then come down on its own and proceed to shake. We usually turn the car off, then on again and it goes away. If it doesn't go away, then we repeat (off/on).
We've taken it to the dealer multiple times, including in different cities since we happened to move in the last few years to another city and still, no one can solve the issue. She swears it all started happening after we went a week without the gas tank lid after it got left off by accident after we pumped gas one time. I noticed it was missing definitely within < 7 days and got a replacement right away from the auto store. Not sure if that has anything to do with it?
The car otherwise still runs fine but we just never know when the shaking thing is gonna happen next. It can even happen on the highway when we are driving. You can be trucking along at 70 MPH or so and then ease up on the gas and we'll feel it in the gas pedal and the car...it will jolt and shake a little until we rev the engine above whatever speed we had decelerated to when the shaking started.
When the shaking has happened, I have gotten out of the car to examine under the hood and cannot see anything in particular, the whole thing is just moving like normal and shaking a bit and then eventually if you leave it long enough, it stops on its own.
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I have an '02 Tracker and I've noticed if I have several accessories running, that my engine will start to sputter and come to the verge of stalling when I come to a stop. It happens if I have the heat/air and radio or charging my phone on together. What is the cause and/or remedy for this? I've changed the alternator a few yrs. back, but it still continued.
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03 v6, xle. 125,000 or so.
On highway, mostly notice with cruise on, what seems like engine shake starts. Almost like engine is moving around a bit. There is a noticeable "jump" sometimes, when going up or down hill and the cruise wants to adjust speed.
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I have a 2.7L flex fuel Dodge Stratus with 120K+ miles on it and a problem local mechanics and the Dodge dealership cannot seem to locate. When the engine is hot, and only when it's hot, the car will jerk suddenly while driving for a split second, then resume normal operations. It feels almost like you hit something and is scaring the bejeesus out of my wife. It also sometimes stalls out when at a light after sitting at idle for a few seconds. It idles down from 600 RPM like the air conditioning compressor is cutting on and then dies completely.
The car shows no error codes and the check engine light does not come on when this happens. I have replaced the spark plugs, and the transmission solenoid, which is what the Dodge dealer said "fixed" the car for almost $900, and it did it again on the way home from the dealership. My next idea was to change the fuel filter, or maybe the cam position sensor or timing belt or chain. I wonder if I am just trowing money down a hole at this point though, since Kelly Blue Book on this car is under 2K anyway.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Neon that I've been troubleshoot for awhile now and can't figure it out. My engine shakes pretty badly and found I had some broken engine mounts on my passenger side. I've replaced them and calibrated my struts but the problem persists.
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Have a 2002 Frontier supercharge nissan....in cold it is flooding out....blowing exhaust and knocking and shaking on start up. After it warms up and weather warms up during the day.....it well start up without the horrible knocking.......I am very good about oil changes and preventive maintenance. To date (in 2 months) the dealership has replaced: distributor, a distributor cap, injection throttle flush, spark plug and spark plug wires.... and it is still doing it....the cannot make it do the sound and blow smoke when they have my vehicle...... it is at shop now.....and they want more parts put in it.
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My mother owns a renault laguna 1.8L 2002 model and has asked me to see if i could fix her car, the problem is that right after starting the car and driving for maybe a minute the engine starts stalling when applying the gas, we have to let go of the gas for a few sec and the engine recovers, it feels almost like if the engine chokes and lacks of fuel or air. I have replaced the lambda, O2 sensor to no success.
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My wife's 2002 Jeep GC has just started having the problem of stalling at speed. Happens without warning and will start back up with out any signs of trouble. No CEL. Car has a 6 cylinder with 130k miles and is well maintained. Have been reading around this forum and have seen a few people post similar issues. I will look at the connection at the ECU tomorrow. Is this a common area of trouble?
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Looking for a picture/location etc of where the crank position sensor is in the engine compartment? It seems to be a common issue where the engine stalls during driving and you pull over and are able to restart the vehicle and go on about your business.
My 02 has over 160k in miles and so am believing this part is going out according to what I've read here. My problem before was somehow the 2wire plug to the alternator worked it's way off and got that taken care of and so now while my wife is driving, it'll occasionally stall. Did a load test on the battery and it's good. Didn't check the charging system but not sure it needs to be tested.
By the way, have ran the diagnostics with the actron pocket obdII and no error codes came up and all looked good scrolling through everything.
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a couple of weeks ago, when it was about -15 here, my car started acting strange. In the morning after I started it I tried to shift into drive and it wouldn't engage. The same happened in reverse. I would shift into drive (or reverse) and it would not shift. I would put it in the park then shift back to drive and after a couple of times it worked. Once I am up and running it seems to be fine, it shifts up as it is supposed to when I am increasing speeds and it does not slip out of drive. I thought at first it was the cold, but has continued to happen - usually just in the mornings - even now that the weather has warmed up (!) to 20. The fluid seems fine according to the dip stick and the color of the fluid is pink and has a sweet smell, no burning smell. Could this be a first sign of bigger issues or something that can be taken care of with a fluid change or flush?
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My 1.4 petrol opel astra keeps misfiring every few weeks . When I turn it on the check engine light comes on and the engine shakes so much I can feel it in the steering wheel. When it does I take it out on the road and floor it in 2nd gear for a while and it settles down again for a week or two then one day I jump in and surprise surprise another misfire. It's just been serviced and had timing belt changed. Spent too much money on it in the last few months so I'm wondering if this could be one issue too many. What may cause this kind of constant misfire...
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I have an 02 dodge stratus coupe with about 133,000 miles on it. Since January, when the outside temp is over 42 degrees, it starts rough, and the check engine light comes on. It then chugs and sputters and has diminished power until the engine temp reaches its normal spot on the gauge. But the check engine light stays on. If it is raining or damp, the problem is worse. It feels like it might stall, but never does.It doesn't sound like it is coming from the engine, but rather under the car, maybe the exhaust system. It is not so much a noise, as it feels as though I am driving over a light washboard dirt road. It's worse in the morning than when I come out from work.If the temp drops back under about 38 degrees, the problem and the light go away.I usually get about 28 mpg. In Jan and Feb I averaged 27mpg, but it has now dropped to about 22.I need to get my radiator flushed, as I do every winter, but don't know if this is related.
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My 2002 7.3 will go dead when driving then not start up until after it has sat for a good hour. Then only run for about 10 minutes before dying again. The truck will stay running if left in park idling. It only stalls when it is driving.
I replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor and Alternator with Genuine Motorcraft parts. My next assumption is the ICP Sensor? Maybe. I do have a kill switch on the truck that I thought might be loose--but I'm not sure.
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My 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan's most recent problem has baffled 2 garages so far. It is now in a 3rd one that specializes in auto electric issues. When I turn on the left signal it flashes a few times then the RIGHT side starts to flash. When I turn the right signal on you got it the LEFT side flashes! I installed a new multi function switch and NO CHANGE!
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I drive a 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible with about 130,000 miles on it.
I was driving down the highway in early November when the check engine light came on my car. I took it to Aamco who did some diagnosis and replaced a solenoid assembly in the transmission. The light went off and I was on my way. I never got the exact code.
About a month after that, the light came on again. This time, I got a low end code reader and scanned it myself. I got a "P0700" code, which I've read is a generic code that the transmission system sends to the computer or something. So I used my reader to erase it. However, the light came on 2 days later while I was driving down the highway at about 70 MPH.
So I went to an auto parts store to get a more detailed scan with a better tool. This one came up "P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit".
This feels weird, because the solenoid assembly was just replaced a month ago (and is still under warranty).
The car seems to drive okay. I don't notice any actual problems in shifting. The tachometer seemed to get up to about 3000 RPM on the highway. But I've seen practically new cars do that. The last time I had serious transmission problem it would rev up to about 5000 or 6000 RPM on the highway and still only getting up to about 40 MPH. That was 3 years ago and at the time I had a fairly expensive transmission repair (which included a new torque converter).
But like I said, the car seems to be driving okay. I don't drive much. Maybe 100 miles a week? And even that is mostly optional in town driving. I'm not looking to keep this car for more than another 20,000 to 25,000 miles though for the time being I cannot afford a new one.
What are the possible causes here? What are the consequences of ignoring this? Like I said, it's still driving fine and as the old saying goes "if it's not broke, don't fix it".
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I have an odd issue. I bought my car used from the dealer. The fuel pump was replaced last December, as well as had an oil change. The fuel pump died right after the oil change but are seemingly unrelated since the pump was bad when i bought it. After the pump was replaced my van stated acting up over the next couple days. The fuel gauge would dance randomly. That has since settled down. Now when i make left turns, the rpms drop and i have to pump the had to get it going again or else it completely stalls out in the middle of an intersection. .. it had been steadily getting more frequent and only on left turns. Right turns runs fine.
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I have found myself in a spot of bother with my 2007 Prius... I am getting am Immediate P3190 error, & engine only runs (OR cranks) for 10 secs before stalling with the error...
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2002 dodge grand caravan. We feel the heat from engine block inside the two front seats (driver and front passenger). We also feel heated wind (blowing strong) and smell coolant when standing outside the vehicle by the driver and front passenger door with the engine idling.
There's visual small leak, once the vehicle is parked. I wonder where the leak is (not on radiator and the radiator coolant level remains full). I bought Preston Radiator Complete Care and Stop Leaks. I haven't put it in yet, just wonder if this will work.
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