Dodge - Ram :: 2000 Van Starting After Several Attempts
Jul 17, 2013
I have a 2000 dodge ram van 2500. When I try to start it, it takes several attempts before it fire. When it does start it sputters for a few moments then die.It seems like it is struggling to get either air or gas.
On one occasion since this started happening I was able to turn the key one time and it fired right up and ran smooth as could be.
On two other occasions I was able to get it to start and run smoothly after many tries and a lot of sputtering.
I was able to pull four codes:
p0443 evap emission control system purge valve c faultp0743 torque converter circuit electricalp0753 shift solenoid a circuit electricalp1765 governor pressure not in range
After read up on these codes online it seems as if the all have solenoids and vacuum related to them.
Before I start the annoying tasks of trying to find a vacuum leak I can not hear or tracing down a bad ground which I will probably never find.
One other note, the air filter is good and it might be my imagination but the exhaust smells really rich.
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Just got a new battery for my 2002 Honda Odyssey on Friday. I did not drive the car Saturday or Sunday, Monday morning it faintly sounded like it would start but then would start clicking. After several attempts it started. I drove about 3 miles to drop my kids off at school and it started right up when I left the school. Should I take it back to where I got my battery or will it be fine if I don't let it sit for days without starting?
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I have Honda Accord 2003 with 114000 miles on it. All of a sudden it started acting goofy while starting. It didn't start for first few attempts, there was little crank in first 2 attempts. After 3 attempts, I waited for 1 minute and started and it started immediately,just like a new car. This behavior only happens if it gets cold (Florida weather cold) or I let the car sit for 3 days. I left my car at the dealership 3 or 4 times. They couldn't replicate the issue.
I changed the sparked plugs and got my fuel injectors cleaned and also replaced a gas pressure pump. I even got it towed and once car got at the store it started on first attempt. I asked them to change the air filter. Since then its working fine but during start up when I turn the key to start, it feels like car struggles to start but it always start on first attempts. Dash lights, Radio, Wiper and everything works fine on ignition.
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My 1988 Volvo 240 DL often has trouble starting in the rain (I've usually managed to get it going, but it often takes several attempts). I have been told by a friend that he had the same problem with his '86 and replaced the distributor cap, solving the issue. My mechanic told me that he would need to replace the cap and wires. He said that replacing the cap alone won't solve the problem, and would just lead the cap to wear out faster. He told me this without looking at the car. Just want to know if he's right--do I need to replace the cap and wires? Is it possible that changing the cap alone will solve the problem? Could I change the cap and see if there's still a problem, or is it better to just do it all at once?
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2000 EX with 7.3 diesel 234000 miles. After several attempts to start the battery is to low and I get code 1670. I can jump it with a charger and it starts. Checked the battery cables and pulled the starter and had it checked at Advance. All checked ok. Don't know where to go from here. I think the 1670 code points to the IDM.
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I've got a 2002 Excursion which has been giving me a little trouble lately. I've got a DP tuner, 4" exhaust, afe stage 2, and gauges (boost, trans temp, EGT). I've been running these for about a year now without any truck problems until recently
So I noticed over the past couple weeks it has gradually been taking longer for the engine to start. Started off by just having to turn the engine over a few more times. Now it has turned into having to turning over the engine for a few seconds, then turning it to off, then trying again. It always starts on the second attempt to start my truck and sometimes really hard where it blows out a little black smoke.
Not sure if this is a correlation to the problem above or not, but I've also been losing boost pressure, and I'm not sure when this started since I haven't been on the highway for a while. I noticed this because this weekend I drove on the highway and saw that I was blowing some black smoke every time I accelerated which has never been the case.
So I check my boost gauge and see that I'm sitting at like 3-5psi when I used to be at around 10psi+. I also noticed when I accelerated the boost pressure would increase like normal but then quickly drop once I stopped accelerating which is unlike anything I've seen before in my truck. I don't seem to notice a huge difference power or throttle response, but then again 95% of the time I'm driving under 40 mph to get to work. So this problem could have started the same time as the starting problem, but I can't say definitively.
What this problem could be, what to check or test?
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I have a 1998 Grand Caravan 3.8L engine with 157K on it. A month ago changed the EGR valve and replaced the transmission oil. Two days ago, went for shopping, parked the van. Came back and did not start (no crank, nothing). Called AAA, checked for battery, which was good. Radio, wiper, lights work. Had to tow to the shop. The mechanic checked for all possible problems. Said everything (Fuse, battery, starter motor, alternator) is good. He is clueless. Told him to check the ignition switch (may be worn out). He says it doesn't seem so.
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See the log (with videos): [URL] .....
Every time the mechanic tried to start it worked just fine. It appeared to happen more under the following circumstances: drove day before, hot the day of, cooled down and then won't start. I just recently picked it back up and it's been starting fine...which leads to the theory that it's connected to hot weather...but I expect to have problems in the future and the fear of getting stranded is not nice.
PS. Car has 90K miles, regular oil changes but not sure what else (a "hand-me-down" that got lined up with the others in my parent's driveway to change the oil - I don't know if my sisters did any major work on it and we've all switched cars so much it's hard to remember what had what done.)
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My father inlaw has a dodge van that is having problems starting. When starting it will crank, but will not fire. We have discovered that if you remove the 20 amp Oxygen Sensor relay, under the hood, and jump it directly to the battery, while starting if will start. The fuse appears to be good. Can the O2 sensor relay prevent the van from starting, but run after initially bypassing after starting? What it might be?
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My 2005 Ram 1500 makes a knocking noise (like a diesel) when i first start it up. The colder it is the louder it is. Once warm it is quite and i have no performance issues.
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OK so I have a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 with 125,000 miles. Recently about a month or so ago I began having a starting issue. Basically what happens is that when I go to start the car, all I get is one click. The engine does not crank at all. Now this will only happen once or twice in a row and then when I try to start it again the car will start fine and it does not have any issues at all.
This will sometimes happen 4-5 times in one day and then it works perfect for a week or two before it starts acting up again. Two weeks ago when I had this issue, I took it to have the battery, alternator and starter tested. Supposedly they all were good except the battery had a lot of corrosion around it. I cleaned the corrosion off and it started fine for 2 weeks straight before it started acting up again yesterday and today. I am worried that it will get to a point where it wont start at all. The battery was last replaced in December 2011.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Stratus and recently lost my transponder key for my ignition. I do have a spare key cut but it doesn't have a chip in it, I can only use it to unlock the doors and open the trunk.
What I want to know... is there:
➣ A way to disable/bypass the theft prevention system so I can use the non-chipped key in my ignition?
➣ a way I can modify my key to trick the theft prevention system into thinking it is a real key?
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I have a 2007 Dodge Charger. Battery light came on, I had AAA come out to me to test everything because I didn't want to be stranded just in case the car died while I was out doing errands.
I forget the name, but he connects it to the battery. It tested the alternator, battery and the starter. Turns out, the alternator had an open diode. Battery was in good shape and the starter too.
I ordered a battery, and had to wait to get it installed because my mechanic was busy working on a whole bunch of other cars. So I had to use the whining alternator for a whole week before I could get the new one in.
But he got it installed. And put everything back together where it should be (I think). He told me to start the car. It started up beautifully! No troubles at all.
A couple days later, it started to struggle cranking to start. Taking into account the battery and starter are good and the alternator is like-new (refurbished). I do not understand why it's having issues.
There's no battery light on. Why would it, a couple days later, start having an issue? Could my mechanic have not fully connected wires to the alternator? When loosening the idle arm to loosen the belt, could the have messed with the timing?
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My 2004 Intrepid with 100,100 miles runs and starts fine until a temperature change occurs. When that happens, and first starting, the engine will rev up and the check engine light will come. I don't drive it for awhile and then it starts and runs fine, but the check engine light is still on. I've changed various sensors, and the throttle body assembly. Still not fixed. What could be causing this? It has a 2.7 engine.
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i have a 96 slt v8 dakota im trying to fix myself. it wont start. put new batt. new starter motor. it just clicks engine wont turn everything in truck is working but when i turn the key to start its just clicks and my radio losses power. so i took out radio and still wont start...
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150K 2003 durango 4.7, ran like a top, backed in my driveway to eat lunch. Went to start and it sounded like it was firing on 1 or 2 cylinders give it a little gas and it died. Repeated 3 or 4 times now no fire at all. No check engine light at first now it flashes. About 30 miles with new fuel from a reputable local station tank was on reserve ( 0 miles on the overhead indicator ). All fuses are good . could it be a relay.....
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I have an 02' Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 (not flex fuel) .I have replaced the battery, alternator, sparkplugs/wires, fuel pump, fuel filter. All over time and now when i try to start the van it turns over strong sometimes starting then stalls out immediately. When I try to crank it sounds like metal on metal. Check engine light stays on,but i dont have an OBD reader.
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I have a dodge neon that has a hard time starting. if i turn the key about 6-8 times i hear a noise like a pump ( i am guessing) and then it starts. if i do not turn the key on and off it will not start.
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We have a poorly maintained 2001 Dodge Intrepid 2.7L with 155,000 miles on it. Over the Christmas break, we left it untouched in the driveway for a month. After that it wouldn't start without being jumped off, and the oil light flickered when the car idled. We had the battery, alternator, and starter checked at a local shop; all of them checked out fine. Nevertheless, the car wouldn't start without being jumped off. It would click once, and then nothing. We also noticed it was overdue by 2,000 miles for an oil change, and thought this may be causing the oil light issue. Since the 2.7L Intrepids are notorious for engine sludge, we added a couple of ounces of Seafoam, drove about 15 miles, and then took it in for an oil change. Now it starts without a jump. So my question is Is there any way that oil sludge (and perhaps a weak starter?) is the issue?
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When starting from a full stop our truck intermittently will act like there are air bubbles in the fuel line or something and will nearly stall out several times before it gets going. We don't have a problem while driving. The "hiccups" eventually got better after we began buying a different kind of fuel, but there is still a problem. We have had the truck looked at several times but no one can find anything wrong with it because the truck seems to always be on its best behavior when we take it somewhere. Except for this, the Dodge has been a great truck and pulled our 32' "house" all over the USA and Canada since we bought it brand new in 2003. We are very good about doing all the regular maintenance so the obvious answers can probably be ruled out. It has a Cummins diesel engine and we regularly add an additive to the fuel.
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I own a 2007 Dodge Ram Pickup (3500). One day it started by itself while parked outside in the driveway. It drove into one of my other pickups and pushed it into my side by side. It finally pushed both aside and was headed toward the house but was stopped by a tree. I heard a loud crashing noise so I looked out the window and saw what was happening. I jumped into the pickup to try and turn it off but the key wasn't turned on. I put the clutch in and took it out of gear but it just reved up more. The horn was blaring and smoke boiling out. I turned it off by opening up the hood and unhooking the battery cable.
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