I have a 1989 Dodge RAM250 that has a 318 5.7L V8. It has throttle body injectors and I had to replace one of them. I did that and the engine runs grate! My problem is that when you put the vehicle into Drive or Reverse the engine quits. The only way to keep it going is to left foot brake it and rev the engine up.
View 4 Replies2008 Dodge Avenger SXT Sedan GEMA 2.4L DOHC I4 / 4 speed automatic75,000 miles Moderately well taken care of (oil change every 3,000 miles, mostly follows recommended maintenance in owner's manual)
Symptoms:
*Car runs and drives fine while the car is in constant motion and decelerating.
*Rough and Slow Idle at a stop on the brakes with car in Drive. Engine speed will drop below ~400 RPM, then "kick" up to ~1,200 RPM, settle back to 'normal' idle ~800 RPM, repeat. I have suggested she put the car in Neutral at a stop to see if that changes anything, but I don't have feedback from her yet. One instance of seeing a puff of smoke from under the hood while the car was doing the above.
*When pulling away from a stop, the car will hesitate; that is the accelerator will be pressed but the throttle response will be delayed.
*When pulling away from a stop acceleration will be inconsistent; instead of rrrrrRRRRRRRRRR, it's more like rrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRR
*Couple instances where the car just shut off while she was parallel parking (low engine speed).
*One instance where the car did not start on first attempt. Started fine on second attempt.
*No Check Engine Light. The codes have been run.
Shop Visits (at an independent garage recommended by her roommate who's been going there for 5+ years, good reviews on yelp, and always busy):
*First visit: told her they put in a bottle of fuel system cleaner and to use a tank of high octane gas. That didn't really work.
*Second visit: cleaned the throttle body. That was 3 days ago, so far no conclusion either way.
Other repairs:
*The battery was checked (at O'Reilly) and replaced after the starting incident mentioned above. (5 year old car, seems about right).
*2 nights ago I told her to put in a bottle of HEET to get water out of the fuel system (California uses ethanol blend) and a bottle of Gumout Fuel System Cleaner and to fill up with premium gas (based on items below). Be sure to run that tank down to almost empty.
Things I could think of:
*Crankshaft/camshaft position sensor failing.
*Alternator failing (because this problem doesn't seem to exist at higher RPM's)
Research online: It seems that a number of people have similar problems with Chrysler products with this and the previous generation 2.4L engine but no clear conclusive repair. Some of the items mentioned:
*Idle Air Control (IAC)
*Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve
*New sparks plugs and wires. (not replaced but should be)
*New timing belt. Timing belt is one tooth off.
*Water in the Fuel System (hence, HEET)
*Dirty/Clogged Fuel System Component (hence, fuel system cleaner)
*Failing Fuel Pump
*Dirty/Clogged Air Filter (replaced per maintenance manual)
*Low Oil Pressure/Failing Oil Pump
*Additionally, there are no recalls against her VIN.
I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500. The transmission fluid is always low, but I cannot find a leak. This causes the transmission to slip. When I add transmission fluid it is okay for a while. (I do not drive the truck daily...) What the problem may be?
View 6 RepliesThis being the second of no doubt numerous questions re the 1989 Dodge B250 camper I just bought for a summer roadtrip. Engine is the 318 V8 with 120k miles. Tranny was rebuilt in '99 at about 60k.
Problem: beginning about 40 mph, and growing increasingly severe with speed, is a low-frequency rumble/vibration, probably in the 20 Hertz range. Significant enough that I didn't want to drive home faster than 50-55 mph. Could feel the whole vehicle vibrating, through the drivers seat, NOT through the steering wheel or pedals. Definitely not the engine, because as soon as I let off on the gas, the rumble/ vibe disappears. Get back on the gas and it returns full force. Definitely a drivetrain problem, only under load, that disappears when load it removed. My best guess is it felt something like I've heard described as a bad U-joint, something I've never experienced in person. The tranny shifts fine and doesn't feel like it's the problem, unless maybe it's something to do with the torque converter at highway speeds?
I'm taking it into the shop next week for diagnosis and repair, but I'd be interested to know in advance what the range of possible causes might be. Will report back after diagnosis with bonus points for correct guesses!
PS, correct me if I'm wrong, but when I pulledoff the highway to check underneath, it looked like this van has 2 U-joints. Is that correct? The van has a rear body addition for the camper bathroom.
Also, the van has been sitting almost unused for almost 2 years, except for an occasional run around the block to keep thr blood flowing. Would that lack of use perhaps. contribute to a U-joint seizing up?
Question regarding a 89 Cadillac Eldorado 4.5 V8 FWD, Transmission - 260,000 miles on car, runs great. Last couple of months, I have noticed that it will only shift into Over Drive when the car is cold, sat overnight. It will shift 4 or 5 times into Over Drive no problem. When car warms up, then it will not shift into Over Drive ever again, and I will get a 39 error code. Are there solenoids that I can replace, if so where are they? I'm not sure where to start with this problem?
View 6 Replies1989 Honda Accord DX .. I have 2 problems.
Problem 1: the car will not idle with the ac on, goes dead.
Problem 2: the tank has a capacity of 15.9 gal. But after 10 gal. have been used, I have to put gas in for the car to run.
Like the title says, 89 Chevy G20 V8 5.7l. When coming to a stop or in idle while in drive the van will shut off. Here are the symptoms.1. When driving below 10MPH the oil pressure gauge will drop to 0 and then the van shuts off.2. When starting the van a nice white plume of smoke comes out of the exhaust.3. Van had been chugging a bit when stopped and the AC was on. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator today thinking that possibly the engine was getting flooded when slowing down, but that did not fix the problem.
View 7 Replies1989 Saturn 5 speed, 4 cyl, 185,000 miles. Just started overrevving, when I try to go into 1st or 2nd or idle RPMS jump to 4500. So not a good thing. Do not tell me to buy a new car, not in the budget, or maybe it is.
View 6 RepliesI posted a few weeks ago about a problem I fixed with the MAF ( leak after the MAF ). 89 GT 111k miles, ( car restored to showroom condition ) Last week I pull to a stop light and idle is at 2000 RPM. Shut engine off and restarted and all was well, and idle back to about 800. I know something was wrong before hand as the car was pulling without my foot of the throttle. This happened again when I pulled into my driveway so let it run like this and when I pulled the plug on the IAC and idle dropped to about 600.
I took the IAC off the TB and cleaned it which did not look too bad. Installed IAC but left it disconnected and set up the idle on the TB according to the shop manual to 750 RPM. Shut engine off connected the IAC and followed the instructions in the manual to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, letting it idle for 2 minutes shut engine off then restart.
Well it was good for 2 days then started the same thing, 2000 rpm at idle..for the time being I have the IAC disconnected and set the idle up on the TB to about 850 RPM.
I have been driving the car like this for 4 days now and no running problems what so ever. Funny thing is no check engine light and no stored codes during this entire episode..Had my friend with an earlier OBD scan for codes and clean.
I hate shot gunning parts by replacing the IAC. Does it hurt running the car with the IAC disconnected or should I foot the bill and get a new one ? and hope that is the problem..or could something else be causing this ?
I checked for any vacuum leaks using my propane torch no change in idle. IAC problem on 89 Mustang GT 5.0 manual trans.?
I got an old 1989 F-150, manual, in-line 6 engine, with an 8-foot bed. I use it for hauling landscaping equipment, as i am starting a business. i will likely start hauling trailers with it this summer, but I also just want the engine to give me more power.
What are some things I could do to up the HP, or a better truck in general. I'm not looking to make it into a 350Hp monster, just get a little more out of it. What can I replace or add that would do this?
First, the idle dies on me when i put it in neutral, or gets stuck at 2500rpms. is this a vacuum leak, or the idle-air control valve?
My van went from drive to 3rd gear while i was driving. and now its stuck in 3rd gear. its a 98 dodge caravan. i checked the transmission fluid it was full. how do i fix it?
View 7 RepliesI've got a 1997 Dodge Ram with 150k miles. I was driving down the Parkway today and the drive shaft fell out of the rear differential. Is this a major problem? Can this be easily bolted back on or is this the end of my truck? Or something in between? I have no clue where I stand.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2010 Dodge Nitro and when I drive on icy roads the car makes vibrating noises but handles just fine when I get on bare roads everything is fine. Why I'm getting the noises on icy roads?
View 11 RepliesA couple of days ago I started my car, shifted into drive (D) and then did an immediate U-turn upon which pressing the accelerator I got no motion, i was dead in the water, luckily still on own small side street. Same with reverse gear (F). I waited a minute, I think i shifted into park (P) then into D and could move forward. Now this morning I started to use D and R to get out of my parking spot in front of my house and again just the engine would rev and I had zero movement until I put it into park a few seconds then into D or R. I fear the worst. Week ago, new tires and a new radiator (old one had a hole in it with leakage). Very disconcerting to think I could be out and about somewhere and be unable to move forward or in reverse, have to tow my car to a mechanic. 2004 Dodge Neon, 50,000 miles, basic model (not automatic windows or stuff like that), automatic transmission.
My car has a remote car starter that I started using the past week, any chance a remote starter could mess with the car and cause something like this? I can try NOT using the remote start for a few days and see what happens. Both times this issue has happened the past few days have been right in the morning, cold (freezing, snow, here in northern MN), then I drive ten miles to a coffee shop and do not have the issue when I leave the coffee shop to come home (I do not use the remote starter at the coffee shop).
2004 Dodge Stratus 80K... What happened is my check engine light came on maybe 6 months ago and I took it to have it looked at and they were closing but the guy told me don't worry about it and I be ok until I come back and it probably wasn't a big deal. The light went off a day or two so I didn't worry about it. It came on about a week ago and I haven't had time to take it in yet. So here is the chain of events-
Check engine light (6 months ago approx)Check engine light off (couple days later)
Check engine light (1-2 weeks ago)
Put my car in drive, transmission didn't engage right away. I thought I had it in neutral by mistake. then it engaged.(about a week ago)
Same thing happened last night except it took longer for it to kick in and when I ran into the store and came out, it backed up ok but wouldn't go in drive right away. I thought it was because it was freezing) out and maybe needed to warm up better. (we had a terrible ice storm here in Washington).
This morning my 2006 Dodge Dakota v8 auto decided to become a large paperweight. I started it up fine and let it warm up a bit (about five-ten minutes), then shifted into reverse to leave my driveway and it won't move. It just rev's and rev's like it's in neutral. I tried Reverse, Drive, and both low gears, but no luck.
Since it got very cold, it has been making a buzzing/whirring sound that seems to be coming from the belts. But that sounds would go away when the car warmed up. I thought I needed a new power steering belt (and still may), but that wouldn't keep the car from moving at all, right?
When I drive through large puddles, or in the rain, my car doesn't turn. I believe this may be because my Splash Guard is missing.
I keep looking online to get a replacement, and they have one that looks exact, and another I have no clue if this would be the same or if it is a different piece all together.
The picture attached at 1.jpg is the one that looks exactly as the one that is gone from my car.
The second, is the one that I keep finding when I type in replacement splash guard.
Can this one be a proper substitute?
I drive a 2008 Dodge Ram 1500. It has 2wd, 4hi, and 4lo. I have heard from some old timers that if I drive in 4hi at highway speeds it will damage the vehicle. The manual does not say anything about not driving highway speeds in 4hi. I only drive in 4 hi when there is lots of snow on the road (I-25/I-70 between Colorado Springs and the mountains mostly). Any good info on this? I understand how 4hi is no good on dry pavement (I've made that mistake a few times), but in a snowy situation on the interstate where I am not making any turns, only highway curves, is there anything wrong with it? I am talking speeds like 50-70 mph.
View 12 RepliesI would seem that my Neon has started a very small leak seems to be coming from the drive shafts. You may call the differentials. You may also call it a transaxle. I prefer to call them driveshafts and transmissions. I took it to a service place to take a free look at it. I do not have the equipment that they have. They put it on the hoist and when you walk under there it does look like it is coming from one of the driveshafts. They were not Tranny experts and said they could not fix it, but said it would need to be rebuilt or changed. My question is, since they are not tranny experts. Does something like this really need to be rebuilt? Is there not just a seal leaking that can be changed without a rebuild? Why would they make something like that? Just to make you pay more money to get it fixed? I did try some Lucas and then Trans X hoping that would seal it up. Lucas seemed to do nothing. Just put in the Trans X today.
View 9 RepliesI have a 04 grand caravan 3.8 liter. after filling up with gas & only after filling up i have a prob with the way the van runs. it will start and idle fine but once i shift in to gear and try to drive it starts to buck. if i take my foot off the gas it wants to stall. if i shift in to N or park the RPMs are around 400/500. if i rev the motor in N or park it will smooth out and idle fine and drive fine until the next fill up, then it starts all over again.
View 1 RepliesThe truck will go into reverse, but will not go into drive or any of the other gears. When shifted into one of those gears, it just idles as though in neutral. This started as I was driving down the highway at approximate 70mph. The speedometer jumped up then fell to zero as the car slowed to a stop. There was no noise except the sound of rapid fuel intake and then it went to idling. I have been told it may be a speed sensor, but I was wondering if there was anyway to confirm that before I have the truck towed down to a mechanic and find out its more than I want to pay to fix it.
View 1 Replies