Dodge - Ram - 1500 :: Stalling Out When Letting Off The Gas Pedal / No Codes
Jan 22, 2011
No codes showing up but my dodge is stalling out on me when i come to a stop sign or red light. When I first start it up and go somewhere it is fine but once the truck warms up it starts doing this. Have put it on a computer and nothing shows up. It has a v8, the smaller one.
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Our 2006 Dodge Durango (94000 miles, V8 5,7 l Hemi) shutters when you're letting of the gas pedal. Occasional the car shuts off, we notice it by the power steering not working, while driving down the road, mostly when the engine is still cold. We noticed that the AC won't turn on unless the car has been driving for a while.Also the console lights start flickering and the check engine light comes on. The dealership hooked it up to the computer but couldn't figure out what it going on or why the check engine light is coming on.
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Had this issue with my Kia Optima 2013 pertaining to the brake pedal, now with my 14 Sonata Limited. When in stop and go traffic, parking lot driving, or pulling into the garage that requires a lighter touch on the brake pedal, the pedal has a creaking feel to it, like when closing a creaky door. I can make this happen of course when I push the brake pedal slowly with my hand. This also happens when letting up on the pedal slowly/lightly. Kind of annoying, but the brakes work just fine and dandy
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If I am going over 60MPH and let off the gas pedal (decelerate, no brakes) I get a bad rattle/vibration that shakes mainly the dash front. only happens when I let off gas pedal. As long as I am giving gas the Bronco runs smooth, no vibration/rattle at all.
I just changed..Front Rear Brakes, Repak Front Wheel Bearings. New Front Rear Shock (deutch Tech), new track bar poly bushings, greased all joints axles, changed rear diff fluid (bottle of transX diff additive 85W-90 gear oil). It did the same thing before all this too and it is intermittent (but more so than not). Sometimes it is really violent (feels like the whole truck is going too shake loose, other times it is fine.
I am going on a long trip Thursday and this is bothering me. Cant pin point problem. One note i towed a boat for the first time last sunday and the problem went away, i.e., more wait in rear? Alignment,tires,driveshaft? I really dont have time to do anything except minor adjustments before I leave.
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Started noticing a whooshing noise when I let off the accel pedal on my 2002 F250 7.3 powerstroke.
You can hear it best towards the end of this video: [URL] .....
What could this be?
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Are they known to cause any noise? VGT Solenoid.
I have recently developed a slight whistle/squeal when boosting and when letting off on the pedal. I initially thought I had a CAC boot starting to split out, but since it's making the noise when I let off as well I doubt that the problem.
It isn't constant, and only does it for a second or two when it happens. It's not extremely loud, just loud enough to make you wonder what the heck it is...
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I have 2014 Ram Outdoorsman hemi. When braking hard engine stalls. Starts right back up. Took to dealer under warranty, only 35k, he diagnosed it for 10 weeks. Said it happened several times for him. Computer does not trip code for problem. He said their is a problem but he does not know what it is and can not fix it, without an error code.
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I have a 1994 dodge ram 2 wheel drive with a 318. Idles fine but when put under a load it starts surging and bucking at about 1500 rpms. Idles at 1500 no problem only under a load...
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I bought this used Dodge Ram pickup. It looks like there were a few scratches in the paint and somebody hit it with some spray paint. It doesn't look horrible, but it would sure be nice to have a nice shiny uniform finish to it. I hit it with some rubbing compound and a lot of elbow grease. There is nice looking paint underneath. I just wonder is there a faster way to take that spray paint off? I'll be at it with a month with the rubbing compound. Maybe a fine sandpaper? I just don't want to damage the factory paint.
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I have a 1997 dodge ram 1500 4x4 with the 318ci engine. 140,000 miles. Fall 2009 I replaced the CAT (old one had broken loose and was rattling around inside) and both o2 sensors. A few months later, when I'd start the truck cold it would idle fine then as it warmed at idle it would run rough almost quit then idle up and run fine all by itself. When started warm it would idle fine then hesitate while acclerating a few times then run fine. No check engine light. Now, about 10 months later check engine light is on (P0138 o2 circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2). I have put about 5,000 miles on the new CAT. I checked the wires and connections for damage and found none. Also, new cap,rotor,plugs and wires.
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I'm getting heat out of the passenger side, no heat on the driver's. Does not matter what is selected - floor, dash or defrost - the driver side blows nothing but cold air.
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I have an '01 Dodge Ram 1500 that will not go into reverse while the truck is running. The hydraulic clutch and transmission fluid levels are good.
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My name is Jason and I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 with an automatic transmission. It has trouble shifting. I have to drop it down from D into 2 and then back into D to get it to shift out of second gear most of the time. If I have to stop ten times in a trip I have to manually shift it about seven or eight of those times. On top of that, sometimes while I'm driving it will slip into Neutral but it'll still be in the D position. This just started and has only happened a few times so far. My transmission fluid levels are fine. I'm trying to see if there is any other solution besides rebuilding or replacing my transmission.
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I have a 2010 Dodge RAM Hemi Laredo pickup. Love it. Currently 34k miles. Have kept up with all maintenance. Since about 3k miles, I have intermittently heard a "grinding" noise at about 1400-1500 rpm. Usually while accelerating going up hill/inclines. Assumed it had to do with automatic gear shifting. Have reported this to dealer maintenance folks at each visit. They have reportedly not been able to identify the source, as they claim they do not hear it, despites numerous test drives. Everyone who drives with me has heard it!. I am concerned, as at 36k my full coverage for the transmission warranty expires. Incidentally, at 33,100 miles 2 broken studs were extracted from right exhaust manifold. A new exhaust manifold gasket and 2 new studs were replaced for a different niose. Are these related, or any clue about the "grinding" that I still frequently hear at 1400-1500 rpms?
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Why does my 4WD indicator and Washer level indicator come on and the vehicle is in 2H and the washer resv is full....
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The car is a 1994 volvo 960, it has a rough idle, and its idling high (1500 rpm and higher) its throwing 7 codes, we just replaced the O2 sensor, we reset the computer, and still have issues, (though its no longer running rich!!!)
Here are the codes
1-1-3 injector group 1
1-1-5 injector group 2
2-1-2 O2 signal
2-3-2 long term fuel trip idle
2-1-4 rpm signal
3-1-4 cmp signal
2-3-3 long term ilde air trim
We also checked the idle control valve points 1-2 read 15 ohms and specs say 10-14, for the harness side port 1 read battery voltage (12.3) and port 2 initially read 10.2 then we wiggled and played with the injector wiring harness and it read 11.8.
We also poured fuel system cleaner right into the fuel filter and started it up, and just dumped the rest in the tank
I'm heading out to check those other sensors but what else could be causing these issues, also the temp gauge is reading cold all the time, but the fan kicks on when the car gets warm.
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Power steering quit while driving in freezing weather. Checked fluid was overflowing when pulled out dip stick. What is problem ?
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I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500, 5 speed manual with 110k miles. This past winter, the truck has started to whine when it's in reverse. The strange thing is that it also whines when it's in neutral and simply rolling backwards. It's intermittent, which is why I've been hesitant to take it to a shop to have them waste a bunch of time with it and say they can't reproduce it. Things that make it more likely to occur -- the truck being cold (IE: shortly after a start), air temperature being cold, when it's in 4WD. When I brake, it stops immediately. If I have the clutch on the floor or the transmission in neutral, it will keep doing it, as long as it's rolling backwards. This never happens in any forward gear, and it's been happening intermittently for a few months now. I had the transmission fluid changed this past fall, sometime before I noticed it started happening.
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Big Horn, 5.8L V8 Hemi my air conditioning only works when I'm driving forward, and does not work at all any more when I'm sitting still at an idle. this is a new problem. the A/C has worked like a champ for the past year (since I started using this vehicle). I even refilled it by myself last summer, with no issues until now. when it is at idle, I hear a clicking coming from the A/C system, and the RPM's arch a little bit. then it clicks again, and the RPM's go back down. it does this 2-3 times a minute. also when at idle, the air is VERY HOT, considerably warmer than the outside air. also, I have a pressure gauge for the A/C system (came with the refill kit last summer) and it says that the system is holding too much pressure. it suggests a possible mechanical problem.
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I have a 1994 Dodge Spirit, with 142k miles on it. Twice in recent months it has has unexplained stalling fits. In December, it would stall whenever I came to a stop. I took it into the shop, but they couldn't replicate it and couldn't find anything wrong. Yesterday, it stalled while I was driving, and would then immediately stall when I restarted the car. The shop managed to replicate the stalling once, but after a two hour inspection still couldn't find out what was wrong; they checked the vacuums.
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I have had this truck in 3 different shops and none of them could figure it out. The codes say misfire in cyl 2 and 5 bank 1 too lean and primary and secondary circuits malfunctioning for ignition coil. I've replaced the ign coil cap, plugs,plug wires, rotor, pcv, fuel pump, pick up coil, cat, o2 sensors and all sensors under the hood. Switched out all vacuum lines, cleaned the IAC and checked the pulse ring. The truck loses all power and either dies or backfires and regains power randomly. If I drive at night, it will stall and keep cranking when trying to restart. Usually have to let it sit for ten minutes for it to turn back over. Last night it backfired and stalled every 50 ft for over a mile. During the day, it revs up and down at idle by about 100 rpms.
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