Dodge - Ram - 1500 :: How To Remove Spray Paint Off
Feb 14, 2011
I bought this used Dodge Ram pickup. It looks like there were a few scratches in the paint and somebody hit it with some spray paint. It doesn't look horrible, but it would sure be nice to have a nice shiny uniform finish to it. I hit it with some rubbing compound and a lot of elbow grease. There is nice looking paint underneath. I just wonder is there a faster way to take that spray paint off? I'll be at it with a month with the rubbing compound. Maybe a fine sandpaper? I just don't want to damage the factory paint.
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Long story short, ended up spilling a small cup of watered down paint in the bed. Of course some ran out the bottom as well but I'm most concerned with the bed. How to remove the paint? Since it was so diluted I figured it would wash right out at the car wash with high pressure.
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My 2003 chevy malibu suddenly started making a terrible knocking sound, like the sound a can of spray paint makes when you shake it- only much louder. A couple of weeks the oil light went on very briefly when i used the brakes. The oil change place was closed so I added a couple of quarts after checking the level (i waited after the engine was shut off for an hour, there was a little oil on the dipstick but definitely needed more). After adding the oil and letting it settle it was at the appropriate notch per the owners guide. A couple of days ago, I bought gas at a station I dont normally use. The car was driven approximately 40 miles after fill up and before the noise started.
I took the car to get the oil change and was advised to get it checked if the sound didn't go away in a day. The auto place says their diagnostic tool won't work if my check engine light isn't on. Its not, and has never lit up. What to do next...I assume I shouldn't drive it anywhere. I remember reading bad gas can cause this sound, or a bad Co sensor (?) I am praying the oil light doesn't come on when it's already too late!
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Okay so I have a 2004 Dodge Ram Hemi, the truck was running fine all this weekend and was fine this morning. Went out at lunch and used the automatic starter button while walking to it and wouldn't start. It turn over and wants to start you can hear it trying to catch but it won't catch unless you put some starter fluid in. Just changed all 16 spark plugs, all 8 coil packs, wires and 2 valve springs about 2 weeks ago have been running fine since and now this. What it could be?
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Problem 1: Headlight switch occasionally needs to be jiggled to get headlights on.
Problem 2: Wipers only work in the "spray and wipe" mode.
My Solution: Removed dash, installed new switches, replaced dash.Result: Now the right headlight does not come on at all. Wipers STILL only work in the "Spray and wipe" mode.
Question: Where do I go from here?
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My 05 Caravan is in excellent shape with only 40k miles and noticed rust and paint bubbles only on the lower front side of the rear wheel well (drivers side). I live in Pa and wash the car after snow storms. Of course the car is out of rust warranty and the dealer said they can repair it but they do not know what causes it. I have seen this exact problem on other caravans and I have been told it is were the two pieces of metal are joined together, the wheel well seam, which causes the problem. We sealed the seam last fall with silicon when it was just paint bubbles and now it has gotten worse. My thinking is either we need to go back and look at the seam again as we only sealed the section that looked open or there is a leak from somewhere else in the van - the gas cap area or the area on the frame when the door is open is suspect to me. Basically I am asking if there is anywhere else I should look for this leak besides the wheel well seam?
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I have a 1994 dodge ram 2 wheel drive with a 318. Idles fine but when put under a load it starts surging and bucking at about 1500 rpms. Idles at 1500 no problem only under a load...
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No codes showing up but my dodge is stalling out on me when i come to a stop sign or red light. When I first start it up and go somewhere it is fine but once the truck warms up it starts doing this. Have put it on a computer and nothing shows up. It has a v8, the smaller one.
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I have a 1997 dodge ram 1500 4x4 with the 318ci engine. 140,000 miles. Fall 2009 I replaced the CAT (old one had broken loose and was rattling around inside) and both o2 sensors. A few months later, when I'd start the truck cold it would idle fine then as it warmed at idle it would run rough almost quit then idle up and run fine all by itself. When started warm it would idle fine then hesitate while acclerating a few times then run fine. No check engine light. Now, about 10 months later check engine light is on (P0138 o2 circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2). I have put about 5,000 miles on the new CAT. I checked the wires and connections for damage and found none. Also, new cap,rotor,plugs and wires.
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I'm getting heat out of the passenger side, no heat on the driver's. Does not matter what is selected - floor, dash or defrost - the driver side blows nothing but cold air.
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I have an '01 Dodge Ram 1500 that will not go into reverse while the truck is running. The hydraulic clutch and transmission fluid levels are good.
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My name is Jason and I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 with an automatic transmission. It has trouble shifting. I have to drop it down from D into 2 and then back into D to get it to shift out of second gear most of the time. If I have to stop ten times in a trip I have to manually shift it about seven or eight of those times. On top of that, sometimes while I'm driving it will slip into Neutral but it'll still be in the D position. This just started and has only happened a few times so far. My transmission fluid levels are fine. I'm trying to see if there is any other solution besides rebuilding or replacing my transmission.
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I have a 2010 Dodge RAM Hemi Laredo pickup. Love it. Currently 34k miles. Have kept up with all maintenance. Since about 3k miles, I have intermittently heard a "grinding" noise at about 1400-1500 rpm. Usually while accelerating going up hill/inclines. Assumed it had to do with automatic gear shifting. Have reported this to dealer maintenance folks at each visit. They have reportedly not been able to identify the source, as they claim they do not hear it, despites numerous test drives. Everyone who drives with me has heard it!. I am concerned, as at 36k my full coverage for the transmission warranty expires. Incidentally, at 33,100 miles 2 broken studs were extracted from right exhaust manifold. A new exhaust manifold gasket and 2 new studs were replaced for a different niose. Are these related, or any clue about the "grinding" that I still frequently hear at 1400-1500 rpms?
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Why does my 4WD indicator and Washer level indicator come on and the vehicle is in 2H and the washer resv is full....
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Power steering quit while driving in freezing weather. Checked fluid was overflowing when pulled out dip stick. What is problem ?
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I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500, 5 speed manual with 110k miles. This past winter, the truck has started to whine when it's in reverse. The strange thing is that it also whines when it's in neutral and simply rolling backwards. It's intermittent, which is why I've been hesitant to take it to a shop to have them waste a bunch of time with it and say they can't reproduce it. Things that make it more likely to occur -- the truck being cold (IE: shortly after a start), air temperature being cold, when it's in 4WD. When I brake, it stops immediately. If I have the clutch on the floor or the transmission in neutral, it will keep doing it, as long as it's rolling backwards. This never happens in any forward gear, and it's been happening intermittently for a few months now. I had the transmission fluid changed this past fall, sometime before I noticed it started happening.
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Big Horn, 5.8L V8 Hemi my air conditioning only works when I'm driving forward, and does not work at all any more when I'm sitting still at an idle. this is a new problem. the A/C has worked like a champ for the past year (since I started using this vehicle). I even refilled it by myself last summer, with no issues until now. when it is at idle, I hear a clicking coming from the A/C system, and the RPM's arch a little bit. then it clicks again, and the RPM's go back down. it does this 2-3 times a minute. also when at idle, the air is VERY HOT, considerably warmer than the outside air. also, I have a pressure gauge for the A/C system (came with the refill kit last summer) and it says that the system is holding too much pressure. it suggests a possible mechanical problem.
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My automatic door lock is making a buzzing noise when it locks the door. It does not make any noise when unlocking. I need to remove the door panel to take a look. How to remove the panel on the drivers door of a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan?
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I just wanted to make sure. I'm using starter fluid which I heard causes a bigger explosion and can damage piston rings and whatnot so I figured can I just spray some gasoline into the air intake?
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I have the MK5 wiper arm on my hatch. Has worked flawlessly for years. Recently though the spray nozzle doesn't point up anymore. It moves (partially) along with the wiper arm and the juice isn't going where it needs to. Namely straight up!
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I was in the car wash the other day and got sprayed by a little bit of water that came in from the moon roof. When I went through the blower, I put may hand up and felt the air blowing in. Is there any way to adjust the unit so it closes or maybe replace the felt seal that is on the perimeter. Since I live in AZ, its not a a major deal, but it is annoying none the less. Let me know what you think.
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