Dodge - Neon :: Sputters With A/C On - Car Starts To Have Little Hiccups
Jun 8, 2015
After a while of running with the A/C on the car starts to have little hiccups? almost sounds like it's missing? but not that dramatic, it will continue after I turn the A/C off, but resolve after I have had the car off for a while. It will start up again after an hr or less of starting the A/C. It seems like I have a loose in HP while this is happening, more so than normally expected with the A/C on. I have recently replaced the ignition cables, plugs, my car is definitely a little more peppy now, and had the timing belt/water pump replaced, all the ussual maint, but this issue was present before. What this could be?
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I have a 1995 Dodge neon 2.0 SOHC. It stars, runs for a few minutes, then dies. Then when I try again it will run for a few seconds before it dies. After that I do not hear my fuel pump engage when I turn they key. It takes about a day before it repeats this process.
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My Neon's rear driver's side drum brake keeps locking up without me hitting the brake pedal. I have changed the hardware, wheel cylinder, brake shoes, brake hose, and the drum itself. Once the brakes heat up, the brake will start to drag (that is what it feels like) and then will lock up the rear wheel. I have bled those brakes at least 3 times, so I don't think there is an air bubble in the line. This has been going on for the last 2 months. Someone told me that I might have gotten a bad batch of brake shoes. Another told me that there might still be an air bubble in the line.
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Intermittent starting issue in these things? Seems to be getting more common for me this winter. Turn the key, it turns over, and then I let go of the key and she doesn't light. Then when I try again, it's like the engine is flooded. I have to give it gas to start, which I know is a no-no in fuel injected vehicles. Other than that, it's fine. No sputters, no hiccups, runs strong, good mpg, etc. But I'm getting annoyed....
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When starting from a full stop our truck intermittently will act like there are air bubbles in the fuel line or something and will nearly stall out several times before it gets going. We don't have a problem while driving. The "hiccups" eventually got better after we began buying a different kind of fuel, but there is still a problem. We have had the truck looked at several times but no one can find anything wrong with it because the truck seems to always be on its best behavior when we take it somewhere. Except for this, the Dodge has been a great truck and pulled our 32' "house" all over the USA and Canada since we bought it brand new in 2003. We are very good about doing all the regular maintenance so the obvious answers can probably be ruled out. It has a Cummins diesel engine and we regularly add an additive to the fuel.
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Intermittently (although lately it's pretty common, perhaps due to the Texas heat?) my car will take several seconds to start. It sounds like the battery is dead, i.e., it sounds as if it's about to start but it straining, and then it eventually engages.
When this happens, I know that a) I won't be able to turn on cruise control and b) I won't be able to accelerate easily. at best I can get it to 60 mph
Similarly, even if I start up without a problem, and I'm cruising down the HWY at 80 MPH, the car will suddenly loose momentum and won't go above 60 mph. And I can't turn on cruise control (cc shuts down, in fact, if it was on).
This is a 2005 Neon, by the way.
I have replaced the battery and cabling to the battery to no avail.
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One of the gas stations where I live recently added e15 and e30 gasoline to their pumps. I drive a 2005 Dodge Neon SXT and was wondering if either one would be ok to put in this car. I regularly put in the e10 gas and have done so for all of my vehicles since I have been driving. I read that e15 should be fine but was wondering about the e30 gas.
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My car was acting like it was in neutral. After cooling down for 20 minutes, it would drive about a block. Then it would not drive.
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I've got this 96 neon. I can drive it to work and almost exactly 10 miles into the trip everyday I notice a subtle chug. Then it gets worst and within a couple of miles it chugs progressively worse until it dies. I pull over to the side of the road for 5-10 minutes. Then I can start it back up and run down the road another 3-5 miles before it happens again. I've changed the computer, coil, cam positioning sensor, O2 sensor, gutted the cat, changed plugs and wires. I'm to the end of my rope with this car. The codes that its throwing are no dice.
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I drive a 2004 Dodge Neon, 2.0 base-model that has had zero problems since I bought it, and regular maintenance has religiously been maintained. Yesterday, after having already driven once without any problems, I went to leave again, and it would not start.
When I turned the key, it started to start but just stopped, but my dash lights and radio all came on (and still come on) fine.
I called out AAA and they tried jumping it just in case, but to no avail. My friend then took out the starter AND the battery and took them to get tested- both were perfectly fine.
There is no wire corrosion, either, and no noise at all when I turn the key. Instead, everything else comes on except the car itself.
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My 2003 Dodge Neon started overheating. We replaced the thermostat, temperature sending unit, flushed the radiator, checked for blockages, cleaned the radiator, changed the head gasket and water pump.It can run for about 10-15 minutes driving or 30 minutes idling before it overheats. The fans will kick on. The thermostat opens up. Pressure builds up on the radiator hose. When it gets hot, it boils back into the reservoir.I've been careful not to let it get into the red since the head gasket change.We sent the head off and had it planed.
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My stepson's 2005 Dodge Neon sometimes won't start. Turn the key, the dash lights and radio and electric stuff respond, but other than a click there is nothing of an engine start up going on. He'll turn the key a few times, he pumps the gas pedal, does what he thinks might wake it up. Usually it will start after a few tries. He thinks it gets worse in the cold weather, but not much worse.
He also notes that if he does a lot of short trips, like running errands, this problem comes up more often. The car may run fine for weeks, and then the problem hits. Of course, it never does this when the mechanic has it. The mechanic has no idea what to do, since the car works when they test it. I was wondering if I used a voltmeter could I check some key nodes when the problem comes up. Also, if it really does get worse at cold, can I spray some suspicious locations with freeze spray to try and instigate the problem?
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I have a 02 dodge neon that doesn't like to start sometimes when its cold it just cranks over and pops sometimes and then just cranks over....
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I have a question about a dodge neon 2002. I am wanting to buy this car from a guy, but he says it needs a power control module. Then car starts up and runs fine, it doesn't smoke etc; the problem is when your driving it, it will not shift into gear and will go back into neutral. I want a opinion on what it could be and what something like that could even cost to get fixed.
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Is there a relay for door switch and dome light? My "door" indicator stays on. The dome light stays on as if a door is open. Is there a relay for this switch? Where? I've checked fuses they are ok. (even though a fuse indicator light also come on)...
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we have a 97 dodge neon soc that keeps leaking at the cam shaft seal. it has been replaced 3 times now? It keeps working it's way out and leaks oil.
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A couple of days ago I started my car, shifted into drive (D) and then did an immediate U-turn upon which pressing the accelerator I got no motion, i was dead in the water, luckily still on own small side street. Same with reverse gear (F). I waited a minute, I think i shifted into park (P) then into D and could move forward. Now this morning I started to use D and R to get out of my parking spot in front of my house and again just the engine would rev and I had zero movement until I put it into park a few seconds then into D or R. I fear the worst. Week ago, new tires and a new radiator (old one had a hole in it with leakage). Very disconcerting to think I could be out and about somewhere and be unable to move forward or in reverse, have to tow my car to a mechanic. 2004 Dodge Neon, 50,000 miles, basic model (not automatic windows or stuff like that), automatic transmission.
My car has a remote car starter that I started using the past week, any chance a remote starter could mess with the car and cause something like this? I can try NOT using the remote start for a few days and see what happens. Both times this issue has happened the past few days have been right in the morning, cold (freezing, snow, here in northern MN), then I drive ten miles to a coffee shop and do not have the issue when I leave the coffee shop to come home (I do not use the remote starter at the coffee shop).
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I have had some ongoing issues with this car the last 3 years over overheating, I have like clock work been replacing my thermostat in the line, well this time I replaced that danged thing again and the heating was still an issue, (yes oil and coolant filled. ) so I replaced the sensor in the motor and the fan would still not engage . so I pulled the fan and connected direct current to the fan and it did indeed start right up. so its not the fan motor, I hooked a direct current where the ah hell mental block here the plug sensor by the fuse, that was replaced, and yet still no fan engaged.. Here is the rub, If I have the AC on the motor fan will run...
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My 1998 Dodge Neon has been stalling after it is warmed up. It runs great when the engine is cold but once the temperature gauge gets to the middle it stalls no matter how fast or slow I’m going. Once it stalls it won’t start for about 10 to 15 minutes while the engine cools a little. Then it will start and run fine for a few more minutes until the gauge reaches the middle and it will stall again. I’ve had my cam sensor, crank sensor, and ignition coil replaced and the problem hasn’t been fixed. When I bring it to the garage they tell me that no problem codes are showing up and by the time they look at it, it has cooled down enough to run and they can’t see a problem.
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See the log (with videos): [URL] .....
Every time the mechanic tried to start it worked just fine. It appeared to happen more under the following circumstances: drove day before, hot the day of, cooled down and then won't start. I just recently picked it back up and it's been starting fine...which leads to the theory that it's connected to hot weather...but I expect to have problems in the future and the fear of getting stranded is not nice.
PS. Car has 90K miles, regular oil changes but not sure what else (a "hand-me-down" that got lined up with the others in my parent's driveway to change the oil - I don't know if my sisters did any major work on it and we've all switched cars so much it's hard to remember what had what done.)
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I have a 1996 Dodge Neon 2.0 SOHC that was over heating. I told my daughter not to drive it until I could work on it and find and fix the problem. Well, we all know how kids are. She continued to drive it and it eventually it broke down. Now here's what I have done. I found that the water pump bearing went bad and that is why it was over heating. This also caused the timing belt to break.
I replaced the water pump and put a timing belt on it. I only have compression in two cylinders and it won't start. I followed the instructions for installing the timing belt from the book. I think they may be wrong. What I need to know is how exactly to set the crank and cam before I install the timing belt. Looking for step by step instructions on how to set the crank and cam and install the belt?
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