I have a dodge neon that has a hard time starting. if i turn the key about 6-8 times i hear a noise like a pump ( i am guessing) and then it starts. if i do not turn the key on and off it will not start.
View 13 RepliesThe truck had a hard time starting, turn the key over hear that it wants to, but won't. Once getting it started, truck would drive fine, but after about 10 minutes just dies while driving. It then took 6-7 tries to get it started again, drove back like no issue. What it could be? I have come up with, potential battery, fuel pump/filter, spark plugs, EEC relay, PCM, or AIS motor, O2 sensor....
View 2 RepliesWent out to my car a moment ago, Dodge Neon 2000, couldn't get the engine to start. The lights all come on, battery seems fine. It sounds like the engine isn't even trying to turn over. Instead, the car makes a weird chugging noise. I've got a recording here, is someone still awake that could give me a clue as to what this is?
[URL] .... -- I turn the key twice here and let it chug. You can hear the noise at about the 2-second mark. I don't think I had any advance warning that anything was wrong, though I did have the car in the shop a few days ago to replace a water pump and timing belt.
See the log (with videos): [URL] .....
Every time the mechanic tried to start it worked just fine. It appeared to happen more under the following circumstances: drove day before, hot the day of, cooled down and then won't start. I just recently picked it back up and it's been starting fine...which leads to the theory that it's connected to hot weather...but I expect to have problems in the future and the fear of getting stranded is not nice.
PS. Car has 90K miles, regular oil changes but not sure what else (a "hand-me-down" that got lined up with the others in my parent's driveway to change the oil - I don't know if my sisters did any major work on it and we've all switched cars so much it's hard to remember what had what done.)
I've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
View 19 RepliesMy sons commuter car is having an intermittent engine light. If you turn left while driving it goes off, turn right it goes on, move the wheel left and right you can make it a disco light on and off. I have had two code readers on this car and there are no engine codes. Im in California so it cant pass emissions test with any engine light despite the fact there are not codes.
View 4 RepliesI've had problems recently with my 03 Neon:
1) The CMP sensor throws codes constantly and the car is really hard to start at times. I replaced it a year or two ago with a generic part. From what I've read elsewhere, Neons hate non-Mopar parts for this so I just got a Mopar replacement and will drop it in when I get the valve cover back on. Does it make sense that a replacement could go bad w/in 20k miles or so?
2) Cylinder 1 misfired pretty hard. I accelerated on the highway and heard a thunk or thud w/ a loss of power. As the only code I got was a misfire I drove it home slowly (about a mile). Could this be caused by fouled plugs from the repeated hard starting? (I lived with the CMP sensor being bad through the MN winter cause I didn't want to replace it until it was warm). Should I look into this more? The thunk really worries me...
3) Last spring at about 95k miles I noticed what felt like my clutch slipping a lot. It would almost always slip under even partial acceleration at highway speeds and occasionally at lower speeds. I'd notice the rev increase w/o increasing tire speed. I took it to a major chain and they took a week to replace the clutch... but ever since then I've felt occasional slips. Did they do their job? Or is there something else here? I don't have a tach but I have a scan gauge ii hooked up which does show rpm increasing significantly w/o speed increasing.
My stepson's 2005 Dodge Neon sometimes won't start. Turn the key, the dash lights and radio and electric stuff respond, but other than a click there is nothing of an engine start up going on. He'll turn the key a few times, he pumps the gas pedal, does what he thinks might wake it up. Usually it will start after a few tries. He thinks it gets worse in the cold weather, but not much worse.
He also notes that if he does a lot of short trips, like running errands, this problem comes up more often. The car may run fine for weeks, and then the problem hits. Of course, it never does this when the mechanic has it. The mechanic has no idea what to do, since the car works when they test it. I was wondering if I used a voltmeter could I check some key nodes when the problem comes up. Also, if it really does get worse at cold, can I spray some suspicious locations with freeze spray to try and instigate the problem?
OK, I have a 1998 Dodge Neon and had to replace the radiator. To do so I had to pull out the battery and the mount and everything. Upon putting everything back together, the car runs great and all works well except my stereo will not turn on! It is totally dead, can't get it to power up or anything. So I went through all the checks, fuses are all ok (in the console and on the back of the stereo itself), I unplugged the stereo and plugged it back in, pushed the reset button on the stereo, and completely disconnected and reconnected the battery.... I'm not sure what else to do.
Now I would simply assume the stereo died, but it was working fine earlier in the day before I took the battery out, not even 8 hours prior. Also, about a year and a half ago I had to replace my battery and this same thing happened. The same stereo seemed dead and I went through all the checks i mentioned previously with no luck. I was about to purchase a new stereo a few weeks later and I plugged it in one last time to double check it and the stereo came on and has worked fine up to today! So I know the stereo isn't bad, there is just something I am missing here.
Car stereo won't turn on, its happened before, and randomly started working again, but now I can't get it back on yet after a battery disconnection.
Just bought a used 2003 Dodge Neon SXT for my daughter. The car didn't pass inspection because the fog lights didn't turn off unless I turned the headlight switch completely off. I ordered a new switch w/ fog light from Napa, disconnected the negative cable, removed switch assembly, removed the wiper switch and installed on new headlight switch hooked up harnesses and reinstalled. I was so happy to find the fog lights now turned off.....until I took the car for a ride and found my turn signals and hazards not working......
Repeated the disassembly process making sure harness was completely seated, it was, took assembly back out, looked over the harness, all appeared good, hooked up just the old headlight switch (left windshield wiper switch on the assembly, did not plug in) and hazards now flashed but no turn signal. Reinstalled the new one again still no turn or hazards....thoroughly aggravated I walked away at this point. Am I missing something? The turn signal fuse is the same as the power mirrors, mirrors are working.
My Neon needed a water pump. At 204K miles the timing belt should be replaced also. The pump and belt were replaced. The motor started and the car drove about 1000ft. and stopped. There was no more spark. The car was checked to make sure that the timing belt is on correctly. The cam points to top dead center when the #1 cylinder is at peak and the crankshaft is at top dead center. Both marks align. When the key is turned the starter tries to turn but the engine does not spark. Electricity goes to the coil pack. 1998 Dodge Neon 2.0L SOHC 4 cylinder....
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Dodge Neon SXT and the only time my turn signals work is in the morning. by afternoon, when I leave work they won't come on at all.
View 1 RepliesMy car was fine when I left work (in a city) but after 30 or so highway miles (by the time I got home) my power steering had gone out. At home I saw that the belt had come off (but not broken). I had a friend of mine replace the tensioner (which was broken) when everything was put back together the car would no longer start, the engine sounds like it is going to start but then refuses to turn over. Doesn't seem to be a battery issue as it's fairly new and all the lights, etc come on. Checked the spark plugs and they are fine...seems like power coil...but I find it hard to believe that would be effected by the tensioner? Something that we might have missed?
View 3 RepliesMy Neon has this strange problem and I can't figure it out neither can my mechanic. Mainly when I'm making a left hand turn there is a knock sound underneath the car, like I can almost feel something jerking up underneath my pedals. And then after making the left hand turn and then accelerating... my car would almost feel like it was stuck to the left and jerk itself straight again.
NOTE: I have replaced/checked the Lateral and Radius Bushings, Control Arm Bushings, Sway Bar and I also recently got new rims and tires which at that point I got an alignment. But nothing has worked so far and I'm at a loss.
I drive a 2003 Dodge Neon SXT with 153,000 miles on. When the engine is first started, there is a "click-click-click" about every 7-10 seconds. I've had the belts changed and adjusted, they freed up a stuck idler (didn't replace the idler, the price was several hundred dollars). Once the engine is warm, the noise goes away.
View 5 Replies2000 Dodge Neon clacking noise at low rpm after releasing gas pedal. Around the 2000 rpm range letting off the gas produces a clacking noise. I have listened to the engine with a long screwdriver at idle and revving. The noise is not always present in this condition. Although when it has come up it seams to coming from behind the engine. Does not seem to be valves, connecting rod or main bearings etc.... Only at low rpm 1200 thru 2000 rpm WHEN releasing the throttle. Clacking seams to be timed with the crankshaft as it reduces the sound as the engine reduces rpm, not at the speed of the cams. Sounds fine at idle, going through gears and at freeway rpm's.
View 1 RepliesAs I accelerate, there is a humming noise that comes from the transmission area of the car. It does not make the noise when I am in idle, nor if i put the transmission in neutral and rev the engine.
When driving slow the noise is very subtle. As I accelerate faster the noise gets louder. The noise becomes the loudest at 60 mph. Above 60 it seems to calm down some. The noise is like a constant, deep humming sound. The noise gets softer as I slow down and then is gone when at idle again. To me it seems related to the speed of the tire or the CV half shafts turning or something rubbing in the transmission as the car goes faster. However the sound doesn't change when the transmission shifts. It stays constant and only gets louder as I go faster and then softer as I slow down.
While driving and turning hard to the left the sounds almost disappears until the car straightens out again. I have replaced the struts on all four wheels and this seems to only have caused the sound to get louder. I have also inspected the CV joints. There doesn't seem to be any cracks or signs of wear to all 4 joints. And I repacked the bearings.
The only other things I can think of is the cv half shafts are actually bad and need to be replaced. Or the motor mounts are not aligned/worn out and need to be replaced. Or the kickdown band and low reverse band on the transmission need to be readjusted. Or the transmission is has a problem (however it doesn't slip when driving).
I need to put a starter in my v6. Is it fairly simple or will i have to jack up the motor the problem is it starts fine when cold but after you drive it for a short distance and shut it off it has a hard time starting.
View 4 RepliesI'm having a issue with my Chevy Lumina Z34 (1991). When it's cold outside the car has a hard time starting up! I have to crank it multiple times while giving it gas. When it starts and is warm she runs great. I've been recommended to get a fuel injector flush. I also read synthetic oil could work also. It doesn't happen all the time.
View 1 RepliesIn the morning, my Treg won't start on the first attempt. If I just click the key to the right (to start the automatic ignition process) it just grinds and grinds then dies. The second time it will start. This has only happened the last couple of days. Also I should mention that it has gotten quite cold around here. Although the car is in a garage and my wife's Jetta fires right up.
I've also been having Insufficient Coolant problems. After one week of owning it I took it to the dealer and they topped off the coolant. A week later the Insufficient Coolant message came on again and I topped it off with about 1 quart (litre) of distilled water. It's been ok for the last day or so. I haven't seen any external leaks. I love my Touareg, but I really hope this isn't the beginning of a bunch of problems.
Vehicle- 98 honda crv lx problem- it always starts when its cold (hasn't run for several hrs). Once its been running for a short while and is shut off, it either has a very hard time starting again or just won't start.
specifics- always starts the first time once engine is warm the problem starts engine turns but doesn't fire. Wears downs the battery. When I get it jumped the car will start sometimes the car will act sluggish during a left turn or from a dead stop when trying to accelerate quickly.
question- does this sound fuel pump related or battery related or both?
statement- car problems blow!