Dodge - Neon :: 2004 SE Turns Over But Won't Start / Code P0508
Oct 3, 2012
In the process of moving to a new house our Neon SE (2.0L, SOHC) sat for about a week without being driven. When my wife goes to start it (5am Monday morning: FUN), it turns but won't actually start. I throw on the code reader and get a P0508, Idle Air Control valve sense circuit Low. At this point, I've put on a new IAC valve, note: the throttle body looked good and in working order, and spliced on a new OEM wiring harness, but the pos still won't fire up. When tracing the wires, there was no indication of them being frayed or short-circuiting. The next step, following this code P0508, would be to change out the PCM. From my research, if the PCM is truly bad, there's usually one or several codes indicating as much; i.e. I'd be getting a lot more than just a P0508.
Could the P0508 been a red herring? I generally associated a bad starter or starter solenoid with a clicking noise, but would this still be worth checking out? On that same note, could the culprit be a bad ignition coil even without any codes showing for IC-related problems?
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I have a engine code for evap sensor sometimes this can be ignored but this is causing me to keep cranking my car in order to start up what should I look for I know there's solenoid and charcoal canister and gas cap which one could be keeping my car from starting the first time.
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I drive a 2004 Dodge Neon, 2.0 base-model that has had zero problems since I bought it, and regular maintenance has religiously been maintained. Yesterday, after having already driven once without any problems, I went to leave again, and it would not start.
When I turned the key, it started to start but just stopped, but my dash lights and radio all came on (and still come on) fine.
I called out AAA and they tried jumping it just in case, but to no avail. My friend then took out the starter AND the battery and took them to get tested- both were perfectly fine.
There is no wire corrosion, either, and no noise at all when I turn the key. Instead, everything else comes on except the car itself.
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My son's 2001 Dodge Neon tends to run hot. The radiator fan comes on while the engine is running, but does not stay on when the engine is turned off, even if the temp indicator is in the range where the fan should be on. Wiring diagram looks like the fan control relay only works when the ignition is in ON or RUN, which would indicate that this is the way the electrical system is designed, but that seems weird...I thought the fan is supposed to operate even if the engine is turned off. We have already replace the thermostat.
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Dad's 97 dodge neon still showing a CEL and a code for a misfire but according to code reader it has something with the fuel line that is causing not enough fuel to get to engine. Car has a new fuel pump (about 6 months old) and it runs fine for a while then will sputter then will run fine for a while and back and forth. What it might be?
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Dad's 97 dodge neon still showing a CEL and a code for a misfire but according to code reader it has something with the fuel line that is causing not enough fuel to get to engine. Car has a new fuel pump (about 6 months old) and it runs fine for a while then will sputter then will run fine for a while and back and forth. What it might be?
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See the log (with videos): [URL] .....
Every time the mechanic tried to start it worked just fine. It appeared to happen more under the following circumstances: drove day before, hot the day of, cooled down and then won't start. I just recently picked it back up and it's been starting fine...which leads to the theory that it's connected to hot weather...but I expect to have problems in the future and the fear of getting stranded is not nice.
PS. Car has 90K miles, regular oil changes but not sure what else (a "hand-me-down" that got lined up with the others in my parent's driveway to change the oil - I don't know if my sisters did any major work on it and we've all switched cars so much it's hard to remember what had what done.)
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I've had problems recently with my 03 Neon:
1) The CMP sensor throws codes constantly and the car is really hard to start at times. I replaced it a year or two ago with a generic part. From what I've read elsewhere, Neons hate non-Mopar parts for this so I just got a Mopar replacement and will drop it in when I get the valve cover back on. Does it make sense that a replacement could go bad w/in 20k miles or so?
2) Cylinder 1 misfired pretty hard. I accelerated on the highway and heard a thunk or thud w/ a loss of power. As the only code I got was a misfire I drove it home slowly (about a mile). Could this be caused by fouled plugs from the repeated hard starting? (I lived with the CMP sensor being bad through the MN winter cause I didn't want to replace it until it was warm). Should I look into this more? The thunk really worries me...
3) Last spring at about 95k miles I noticed what felt like my clutch slipping a lot. It would almost always slip under even partial acceleration at highway speeds and occasionally at lower speeds. I'd notice the rev increase w/o increasing tire speed. I took it to a major chain and they took a week to replace the clutch... but ever since then I've felt occasional slips. Did they do their job? Or is there something else here? I don't have a tach but I have a scan gauge ii hooked up which does show rpm increasing significantly w/o speed increasing.
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So, I have a 2004 Dodge Neon that had a radiator fail, pushing coolant into the transmission. I tried one garage that wouldn't touch it, but did find another one willing to try a power flush. I had that done, and several subsequent flushes over two weeks left me with clean transmission fluid. It's been about 3 weeks (and one 200 mile trip) without any issues, but I'm a little worried about any damage that might've been done.
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2004 Dodge Neon SXT ... Let me say first, I know very, very little about cars. But it all started when I was driving down the road and my car was bucking around 40-45 mph, it stayed that way up until I put some gas in the car the next day and the car started shaking violently when I turned it on. Ever since then my car has been not able to change gears. Reverse works normally however. Now the speedo doesn't work at all and somehow the has gauge will fall or rise depending on whether I'm stopping or going.
So I ran to AutoZone and got a diagnostic ran on my car. It gave me codes P0700, P0731, and P0720. I kept calling around and got horrific quotes around a thousand bucks and mechanics saying my transmission was out. However, I turned it over to a close friend who could work on it for free and has some mechanic experience. The first thing we did was replaced both the output and input speed sensors, which didn't fix it. Then I got a new transmission control module, which for my car I assume it is the TCM and solenoid. Still. That didn't fix the problem. Those were some common fixes I found online for neons. But what else it could be.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Neon that I've been troubleshoot for awhile now and can't figure it out. My engine shakes pretty badly and found I had some broken engine mounts on my passenger side. I've replaced them and calibrated my struts but the problem persists.
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My 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermitent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air in leakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?
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Here is the history of the car. 1997 Dodge Intrepid, 3.3L V6, close to 200k miles. Bought used 8 years ago.
Engine was replaced by previous owner due to front end accident at 90k (about, memory is fuzz on the full miles). Previous owner was a sales lady and had a repair log. Kept car running like a coo-coo clock since work paid for the maintenance. Her insurance paid for the repair then her work would not continue to pay for upkeep, due to accident. Since I bought the car, I kept in the same frame of mind of maintenance and upkeep.
- Oil is changed regularly and on time (no burning or loss, still filled to levels with synthetic high mileage oil) (Color - maple syrup amber, due to be changed in 500 or so miles)
- Water pump changed 3 months ago (no oil in the res. tank)
- Alt. changed in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Ignition Coil and spark plug wires in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Battery replaced in 2007 with a new one)
- Spark plugs last Feb. (about 10k miles ago - Look semi clean and are all gaped still to the manual specs) as well as the 2 belts on the engine.
(Timing chain same age as the replaced engine at 90k)
- All the instrument panel lights work, as well as head, turn signals, interior and tail.
Has for a long time (4 years or so), has an engine light on for an O2 sensor (Code 0134 and the meter I have).
The exhaust system had disconnected from the Catalytic Converter (engine side) last winter (9 months or so ago) due to weathering (clamps rusted off and pipes separated). Recently I repaired this 2 weeks ago (noting heavy black soot in the pipes and around the area on the underside). Once replaced had a cloud of soot when I floor the gas hard while driving.
Yesterday while driving after 10 mins from home while accelerating I noticed a loss of power (slowing down) instinct was to press the gas, did so, and slowed down even more. Car drifted to a stop, engine power was also gone (power steering was gone also). When this happened, there was No banging, or clunks, or loud sounds, or overtly ominous clouds of smoke. Engine turned off (while costing to a stop the engine acted as if out of gas - hence no power steering). Got a tow home.
The starter turns the engine over with no clatter, banging, or clunks. No backfires or "Coughing". Same sound as of before, but won't catch and run under own power. (Still acts like no gas, but has half a tank) (battery still has a full charge - spark plugs still spark - took one out of engine while still connected to spark plug cable grounded to engine for testing. No overtly heavy gas smell or residue on plug or during test).
My friend who assisted in the exhaust repair says that it is not the Catalytic Converter being clogged (I believe it is). His suggestion is a faulty sensor somewhere else, maybe cam/crank sensor, maybe MAP sensor, maybe ignition switch, bad EGR or even a bad ASD relay. Don't want to be buying parts to no end on this, need other input to narrow down a direction.
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I have a 2002 Dakota 5.9l r/t. Always started and ran fine. It sat most of the winter approx 2 months. Now will not start but cranks/turns. Has new battery, newer full tune up and tried starting fluid.
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Ok, this has happened to me and my wife while driving. During braking, once in a while the engine will shut off for a split second then turn right back on without me doing anything. We only have 1 other key on the key ring with the ignition key. Also the inside lights (dashboard/radio) flicker once in a while. The alternator is charging 14 volts, the battery checks out. When it shut off while my wife was driving she noticed the instrument panel lights came on for a second (like when you start the car {abs-check engine- temp- all the warning lights}) and the instruments bounced all the way up then down (also like when you first start the car)...
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Intermittently (although lately it's pretty common, perhaps due to the Texas heat?) my car will take several seconds to start. It sounds like the battery is dead, i.e., it sounds as if it's about to start but it straining, and then it eventually engages.
When this happens, I know that a) I won't be able to turn on cruise control and b) I won't be able to accelerate easily. at best I can get it to 60 mph
Similarly, even if I start up without a problem, and I'm cruising down the HWY at 80 MPH, the car will suddenly loose momentum and won't go above 60 mph. And I can't turn on cruise control (cc shuts down, in fact, if it was on).
This is a 2005 Neon, by the way.
I have replaced the battery and cabling to the battery to no avail.
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One of the gas stations where I live recently added e15 and e30 gasoline to their pumps. I drive a 2005 Dodge Neon SXT and was wondering if either one would be ok to put in this car. I regularly put in the e10 gas and have done so for all of my vehicles since I have been driving. I read that e15 should be fine but was wondering about the e30 gas.
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My car was acting like it was in neutral. After cooling down for 20 minutes, it would drive about a block. Then it would not drive.
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When I changed the alternator on my 2000 plymouth neon, I crossed the wires for the plug. Now the fuel pump fuse keeps blowing, when it turns over, which isn't often. I turn the key and nothing happens.
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My 2003 Dodge Neon started overheating. We replaced the thermostat, temperature sending unit, flushed the radiator, checked for blockages, cleaned the radiator, changed the head gasket and water pump.It can run for about 10-15 minutes driving or 30 minutes idling before it overheats. The fans will kick on. The thermostat opens up. Pressure builds up on the radiator hose. When it gets hot, it boils back into the reservoir.I've been careful not to let it get into the red since the head gasket change.We sent the head off and had it planed.
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My stepson's 2005 Dodge Neon sometimes won't start. Turn the key, the dash lights and radio and electric stuff respond, but other than a click there is nothing of an engine start up going on. He'll turn the key a few times, he pumps the gas pedal, does what he thinks might wake it up. Usually it will start after a few tries. He thinks it gets worse in the cold weather, but not much worse.
He also notes that if he does a lot of short trips, like running errands, this problem comes up more often. The car may run fine for weeks, and then the problem hits. Of course, it never does this when the mechanic has it. The mechanic has no idea what to do, since the car works when they test it. I was wondering if I used a voltmeter could I check some key nodes when the problem comes up. Also, if it really does get worse at cold, can I spray some suspicious locations with freeze spray to try and instigate the problem?
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