Dodge - Neon :: 2002 - Shuddering When Step On The Brake
May 13, 2014
So I'm driving my 2002 dodge neon, just over 80k miles on it and I step on the brake and it kinda shudders noisily. It just started recently, and there wasn't any major shifts in temperature at the time. Today, i step on the brake and it shudders to a complete stop. everythings still running but it won't go. I turn it off and on again and its shuddery but I get to where i was wanting to go. I head back to my hotel and it worked perfectly, well there was a slight shudder on the way out of the parking lot but I pushed the brake down quick and a little harder than usual and it worked fine. My dad (not a mechanic but is rather good at fixing car problems) has no idea whats up. he checked the brakes and all the fluids. he even replaced the brake fluid.
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I have a 1998 Dodge Stratus with 157,000 miles on it when I step on the brake the car idles very hard and wants to die. It has already died one time.It seems when I step on the brake the car wants to keep moving and its like it puts a strain on the engine.
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I have a 02 dodge neon that doesn't like to start sometimes when its cold it just cranks over and pops sometimes and then just cranks over....
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I have a question about a dodge neon 2002. I am wanting to buy this car from a guy, but he says it needs a power control module. Then car starts up and runs fine, it doesn't smoke etc; the problem is when your driving it, it will not shift into gear and will go back into neutral. I want a opinion on what it could be and what something like that could even cost to get fixed.
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My 93 year old dad has a 97 Dodge neon with a leaky brake line. He says it's the line that goes back to the passenger side back wheel and he feels that he can just tape up the leak. I think he is crazy, but he says the tape will be fine and work just fine since he doesn't drive the car that much. So my question is what would be the best type of tape for him to use? Since I know this won't work, what is involved in fixing a brake line with a leak?
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I drove my daughter's Dodge Neon last night and found that when I'm on the highway, the RPM goes up slightly every few seconds. I had about 30 minutes of driving until I was home so I tried to figure out if my speed had anything to do with it.
It doesn't happen when I decelerate or am at an idle. When I'm on a flat stretch of highway and using the gas pedal, the RPMs will increase. I didn't notice the feel of the engine changing, I heard the engine speed up a bit.
What kind of problem is this? The car has 109,000 miles on it.
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Took my car in to get the tire and headlight replaced. Not my usual mechanic. While they were in there, they took it upon themselves to open up the filter and root around the throttle body. They said it was heavily gunked up, and asked to clean it. The car has been having serious starting issues, so this made sense to me, so I overlooked them examining a part of the car that had nothing to do with what I'd asked them to repair, and told them to go ahead.
Mechanic cleaned out the throttle body. Now he says there are scratches in it, he suspects from a mouse or rodent. Says it needs to be replaced, but he couldn't source a part today. Either way, I can't afford that. Says it's fine to drive, though.
Whatever they did, the car is now worse. Engine revs up high in park or when I start the car, and then drops dow and keeps revving rhythmically while idle. And I swear that while in drive, it's running faster even with my foot off the gas, and not dropping out of higher gears as fast. I go back and confront the mechanic. He says yes, that's all because of those scratches. But I don't understand how before, when it still had these scratches, WASN'T clean, when it was, in his words, all gunked up, it was working BETTER than it is now, when it's clean and just has those scratches?
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My Neon has this strange problem and I can't figure it out neither can my mechanic. Mainly when I'm making a left hand turn there is a knock sound underneath the car, like I can almost feel something jerking up underneath my pedals. And then after making the left hand turn and then accelerating... my car would almost feel like it was stuck to the left and jerk itself straight again.
NOTE: I have replaced/checked the Lateral and Radius Bushings, Control Arm Bushings, Sway Bar and I also recently got new rims and tires which at that point I got an alignment. But nothing has worked so far and I'm at a loss.
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2002 F250 diesel ... I found these two plastic pieces yesterday on the floor near the 4X4 shifter. I noticed the other day when i step on the brake the rear view camera in the head unit comes on, so i am thinking they are either a part of the brake switch on the pedal assembly, or something to do with the shift tube.
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Intermittently (although lately it's pretty common, perhaps due to the Texas heat?) my car will take several seconds to start. It sounds like the battery is dead, i.e., it sounds as if it's about to start but it straining, and then it eventually engages.
When this happens, I know that a) I won't be able to turn on cruise control and b) I won't be able to accelerate easily. at best I can get it to 60 mph
Similarly, even if I start up without a problem, and I'm cruising down the HWY at 80 MPH, the car will suddenly loose momentum and won't go above 60 mph. And I can't turn on cruise control (cc shuts down, in fact, if it was on).
This is a 2005 Neon, by the way.
I have replaced the battery and cabling to the battery to no avail.
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I have an electrical problem with the rear brake lights on my 03 Camry. The fuse keeps blowing the instant I step on the brake. I replace it and it blows immediately. So now i can't drive it because I have no brake lights. I'm thinking there is a short somewhere, where to start my troubleshooting?
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One of the gas stations where I live recently added e15 and e30 gasoline to their pumps. I drive a 2005 Dodge Neon SXT and was wondering if either one would be ok to put in this car. I regularly put in the e10 gas and have done so for all of my vehicles since I have been driving. I read that e15 should be fine but was wondering about the e30 gas.
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My car was acting like it was in neutral. After cooling down for 20 minutes, it would drive about a block. Then it would not drive.
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I was asked to look at this Dakota because the Brake warning light and the ABS lights come on.
I get no stored codes with my code reader, and upon test driving it I found that the lights both go off when you shut off the truck, but each time you start up and drive off....those two lights will come on the first time you hit about 30mph and then stay on until you shut off the truck again. Restart and the lights are off until you drive off and hit about 30mph again.
Backing out of the shop, stopping, turning around, down the driveway 50yds and stopping at the road....the lights stay off, even though I just used the brakes three times at least. Get on the road and hit 30mph and they go on.
The two fuses, one in the fuse block by the drivers door and the other (ABS) fuse in the Power distribution box test good.Both brake lights work at the rear as does the high mount brake light. Fluid is at the full mark.
I pulled all four wheels and drums on the back and inspected everything and everything looks good and the E brake cables are intact and working as they should. Brakes were replaced (not by me) and have a little wear, but plenty of material left. No leaks of any lines, calipers, or cylinders. Front rotors are not scored from a sticky caliper, they do have a little minor rusting but because it has been idle for a few months.
I have the same year and drive train in my Dakota. Their truck has about the same stopping power as mine, but I did notice that I did not feel the surging in the ABS as I feel in my truck. I tested this by traveling at about 40mph with the passenger wheels in the gravel and drivers wheels on the pavement and applied the brakes hard. In my truck I felt the surging, but not in theirs. Note that my truck has a tall cap and always carries an extra 800 pounds of gear in the back.Maybe the heavier weight makes my ABS kick in quicker, but I would think weight wouldn't matter.....one wheel is slipping...period.
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I drive a 2004 Dodge Neon, 2.0 base-model that has had zero problems since I bought it, and regular maintenance has religiously been maintained. Yesterday, after having already driven once without any problems, I went to leave again, and it would not start.
When I turned the key, it started to start but just stopped, but my dash lights and radio all came on (and still come on) fine.
I called out AAA and they tried jumping it just in case, but to no avail. My friend then took out the starter AND the battery and took them to get tested- both were perfectly fine.
There is no wire corrosion, either, and no noise at all when I turn the key. Instead, everything else comes on except the car itself.
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My 2003 Dodge Neon started overheating. We replaced the thermostat, temperature sending unit, flushed the radiator, checked for blockages, cleaned the radiator, changed the head gasket and water pump.It can run for about 10-15 minutes driving or 30 minutes idling before it overheats. The fans will kick on. The thermostat opens up. Pressure builds up on the radiator hose. When it gets hot, it boils back into the reservoir.I've been careful not to let it get into the red since the head gasket change.We sent the head off and had it planed.
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My stepson's 2005 Dodge Neon sometimes won't start. Turn the key, the dash lights and radio and electric stuff respond, but other than a click there is nothing of an engine start up going on. He'll turn the key a few times, he pumps the gas pedal, does what he thinks might wake it up. Usually it will start after a few tries. He thinks it gets worse in the cold weather, but not much worse.
He also notes that if he does a lot of short trips, like running errands, this problem comes up more often. The car may run fine for weeks, and then the problem hits. Of course, it never does this when the mechanic has it. The mechanic has no idea what to do, since the car works when they test it. I was wondering if I used a voltmeter could I check some key nodes when the problem comes up. Also, if it really does get worse at cold, can I spray some suspicious locations with freeze spray to try and instigate the problem?
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After a while of running with the A/C on the car starts to have little hiccups? almost sounds like it's missing? but not that dramatic, it will continue after I turn the A/C off, but resolve after I have had the car off for a while. It will start up again after an hr or less of starting the A/C. It seems like I have a loose in HP while this is happening, more so than normally expected with the A/C on. I have recently replaced the ignition cables, plugs, my car is definitely a little more peppy now, and had the timing belt/water pump replaced, all the ussual maint, but this issue was present before. What this could be?
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Is there a relay for door switch and dome light? My "door" indicator stays on. The dome light stays on as if a door is open. Is there a relay for this switch? Where? I've checked fuses they are ok. (even though a fuse indicator light also come on)...
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we have a 97 dodge neon soc that keeps leaking at the cam shaft seal. it has been replaced 3 times now? It keeps working it's way out and leaks oil.
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A couple of days ago I started my car, shifted into drive (D) and then did an immediate U-turn upon which pressing the accelerator I got no motion, i was dead in the water, luckily still on own small side street. Same with reverse gear (F). I waited a minute, I think i shifted into park (P) then into D and could move forward. Now this morning I started to use D and R to get out of my parking spot in front of my house and again just the engine would rev and I had zero movement until I put it into park a few seconds then into D or R. I fear the worst. Week ago, new tires and a new radiator (old one had a hole in it with leakage). Very disconcerting to think I could be out and about somewhere and be unable to move forward or in reverse, have to tow my car to a mechanic. 2004 Dodge Neon, 50,000 miles, basic model (not automatic windows or stuff like that), automatic transmission.
My car has a remote car starter that I started using the past week, any chance a remote starter could mess with the car and cause something like this? I can try NOT using the remote start for a few days and see what happens. Both times this issue has happened the past few days have been right in the morning, cold (freezing, snow, here in northern MN), then I drive ten miles to a coffee shop and do not have the issue when I leave the coffee shop to come home (I do not use the remote starter at the coffee shop).
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