Dodge - Neon :: 2000 - Reverse Gear Stopped Working Suddenly
May 6, 2013
I'm having Dodge Neon 2000 manual transmission. Suddenly the reverse gear stopped working (others working). I got it towed to my regular mechanic (used to charge comparatively lower than other local shops) and he said one of the shifter cable is broken and other one is stretched. Need too replace them. Is it worth it? (It's an old car and recently I've been spending a lot on this).
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I have a 2005 Dodge Neon. The heater stopped working. The blower still works so I am pretty sure the fuse is ok, at least I can't find a separate fuse for the heater. All I see is the blower for the AC/Heater. I replaced the Thermostat and watched it working by letting the car heat up and watched the engine heat drop after a bit. Still no warm air out of the heater. I tried flipping between Cold air and hot air and can tell a difference in the sound of the air blowing that SEEMS to indicate that the flap in the Dash is working to go from cold to hot air. I am sort of out of ideas unless the heater itself is hosed.
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my car sounded very bad and upon raising the hood, noticed a spark plug had blown off. When this happened the steering and brakes got hard to use.
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The water level is up, the heater hose is hot on both sides of the heater hose bypass valve, the MtrCrft thermo is pretty new, but it blows cool air out the vents even after a half hour of driving. It was working great last week and then nothing. I guess you can see the blend door moving if you pop the glove box out?..........haven't tried that.
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A couple of days ago I started my car, shifted into drive (D) and then did an immediate U-turn upon which pressing the accelerator I got no motion, i was dead in the water, luckily still on own small side street. Same with reverse gear (F). I waited a minute, I think i shifted into park (P) then into D and could move forward. Now this morning I started to use D and R to get out of my parking spot in front of my house and again just the engine would rev and I had zero movement until I put it into park a few seconds then into D or R. I fear the worst. Week ago, new tires and a new radiator (old one had a hole in it with leakage). Very disconcerting to think I could be out and about somewhere and be unable to move forward or in reverse, have to tow my car to a mechanic. 2004 Dodge Neon, 50,000 miles, basic model (not automatic windows or stuff like that), automatic transmission.
My car has a remote car starter that I started using the past week, any chance a remote starter could mess with the car and cause something like this? I can try NOT using the remote start for a few days and see what happens. Both times this issue has happened the past few days have been right in the morning, cold (freezing, snow, here in northern MN), then I drive ten miles to a coffee shop and do not have the issue when I leave the coffee shop to come home (I do not use the remote starter at the coffee shop).
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My '05 Dodge Neon's engine just quit when I was stopped at an intersection. All the lights, etc worked. When I turned the key the engine would sound like it started for a brief moment, but it always died a second later and didn't respond to pressure on the gas pedal. I took it to a shop that replaced the alternator, throttle sensor, and "idle air control mtr". A few days later, the car died the exact same way when I was driving down the road. I took it to a second mechanic who looked it over the next day, and it was running. He couldn't find the issue, and it didn't die when he drove it. I don't know if these symptoms are related, but a few minutes before it broke down the first time it jerked and the gauges went crazy. I had a check engine light for "not reading fuel level" or something like that after the first repair but before the second break down, which my first mechanic dismissed as not really important when I asked him about it. My lights also flicker a lot. Battery was replaced last year.
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I've only owned my neon for 3 weeks. I have a loud knocking/clunking noise and it feels like the rear is trying to freeze up in reverse it knocks/clunks louder when i brake in reverse. Sometimes it will knock/clunk and feel like something is trying freeze up in normal forward driving (maybe one of twice every few days) but it happens every single time i reverse.
We have already replaced the rear struts as we thought this was the problem.
I'm getting frustrated I need a good car to drive my child to school and I afraid to drive this one but I don't have much of a choice. It has had a lot of recent work by the previous owner (my brother-in-law) including a new clutch, exhaust, tie rods, new brakes all around and brand new tires so i'd like to fix it because it's in great shape and runs well for it age.
Another piece of information that may be relevant is the car sat for roughly a year and half with no use but was regularly started although I don't think they moved it. I'm wondering if it could have something to do with the brakes?
The problem starting roughly 3 days after I bought the car I don't drive much but would like to fix this so we can take it on longer trips as it's the only vehicle we own that fits everyone in it. Our secondary is a 2 seater Toyota pickup for my husband to commute to work in and there's 3 of us so the car being in the condition it's in doesn't work for us.
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I have a question about a dodge neon 2002. I am wanting to buy this car from a guy, but he says it needs a power control module. Then car starts up and runs fine, it doesn't smoke etc; the problem is when your driving it, it will not shift into gear and will go back into neutral. I want a opinion on what it could be and what something like that could even cost to get fixed.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Neon with 110k miles. When starting my car and putting it into gear, I have to rev the engine in order for my car to jump into gear. It also does it when I come to a light. I could be at a complete stop and the car will either jump forward or I will have to rev the engine in order for it to slip into gear. What could be the problem?
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2000 Dodge Neon having issues with freeze plugs falling out. Have replaced at least four freeze plugs over the last year and a half. Is there a solution to avoid constant replacement? Neon has about 135,000 miles. There is no warning when a plug is about to fall. Research shows freeze plug issues are not isolated to the Neon and perhaps copper plugs are the answer.
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I have a 2000, automatic Grand Am SE with 161,000KM in her and everything seemed to be working fine but as I was driving it today my speedometer just stopped working and when I try to get her up to second gear she kind of jerks forward.
Also, today when I was driving she couldn't gear up at all, she just went from first to second to third to fourth gear without picking up any speed. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the transmission?
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2000 Dodge Neon clacking noise at low rpm after releasing gas pedal. Around the 2000 rpm range letting off the gas produces a clacking noise. I have listened to the engine with a long screwdriver at idle and revving. The noise is not always present in this condition. Although when it has come up it seams to coming from behind the engine. Does not seem to be valves, connecting rod or main bearings etc.... Only at low rpm 1200 thru 2000 rpm WHEN releasing the throttle. Clacking seams to be timed with the crankshaft as it reduces the sound as the engine reduces rpm, not at the speed of the cams. Sounds fine at idle, going through gears and at freeway rpm's.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Neon with a 2001 Neon motor in it. I have just recently had problems with the car overheating. So we started diagnosing it and replaced parts that we thought were wrong. We replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and timing belt. The problem that I am having is that the car won't take coolant out of the reservoir tank. I have bled the air out of the cooling system and it still didn't fix the problem.
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I have had my car sitting for about 2 weeks and I had ah problem with my car were my nuts came off while I was driving some how when I pulled over the car was wobbling I had 2 bolts left holding the tire on. I had gotten my car towed to my house and had new prongs and bolts put on my car since then but now when I try to drive or move the car it only moves maybe 1 foot forward and maybe the same amount of feet backwards... What this problem may be I tired to turning the steering wheel while pushing it backwards but nothing works... It's like when I'm trying to move it I'm bumpin into something or I have ah block behind the tire that's keeping it from moving.
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I have a 2000 Neon with about 170K miles on it. with in the last 2 weeks it has been having a problem with acceleration. When i start to drive the RPMs will get up to 4 before it will start to move. Also when i am drive and need to pick up speed the RPMs will also go up to about 4 before it starts to pick up speed, but will drop back down when the speed goes up. I have found a little oil in the spark plug tubes and will be changing the seals out, and I have cleaned to MAP sensor as will. What is going on with my acceleration.
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Our 2015 Prius 4 with 8,900 miles just suddenly stopped chirping and turning the lights off upon locking. The courtesy lights also no longer work (the lights worked last night as I approached the car but not tonight. The locking chirp/beep worked 3 hours ago but not now. Also headlights no longer go out after double clicking lock on either of the 2 fob.)
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As I accelerate, there is a humming noise that comes from the transmission area of the car. It does not make the noise when I am in idle, nor if i put the transmission in neutral and rev the engine.
When driving slow the noise is very subtle. As I accelerate faster the noise gets louder. The noise becomes the loudest at 60 mph. Above 60 it seems to calm down some. The noise is like a constant, deep humming sound. The noise gets softer as I slow down and then is gone when at idle again. To me it seems related to the speed of the tire or the CV half shafts turning or something rubbing in the transmission as the car goes faster. However the sound doesn't change when the transmission shifts. It stays constant and only gets louder as I go faster and then softer as I slow down.
While driving and turning hard to the left the sounds almost disappears until the car straightens out again. I have replaced the struts on all four wheels and this seems to only have caused the sound to get louder. I have also inspected the CV joints. There doesn't seem to be any cracks or signs of wear to all 4 joints. And I repacked the bearings.
The only other things I can think of is the cv half shafts are actually bad and need to be replaced. Or the motor mounts are not aligned/worn out and need to be replaced. Or the kickdown band and low reverse band on the transmission need to be readjusted. Or the transmission is has a problem (however it doesn't slip when driving).
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I have a 2000 neon, a knocking sound has started only when I get on the gas a bit harder than normal from a dead stop. It seems to last only a few seconds knock knock really fast and then its gone, does not sound like engine knock (rocker knock or persistent knock) more like a mechanical noise. Where to start ? Front breaks were done 4months ago, new rotors / pads / and 1 caliper ...
Seems it to be worse now....now starting to lean towards broken motor mount ... how to check or where to find them. Also now starting to hear while braking.
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I have the 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel 4x4. The other day I was traveling on the freeway, and suddenly the engine stopped running, radio, ignition, power steering, etc. and then as the car was slowing down everything started working, engine came back on and everything is fine. Then a few days afterward, I took the truck around the corner to the store, started the truck up then cam e out of the parking and this time everything shut down for good. The lights work, the emergency flashers work, but when you you turn the ignition, no lights come on, no buzzer, no engine turning over, no nothing...?
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Having my beloved v70 XC SE towed to mechanic today. Suddenly reverse gear was non functioning. No choice. Assume it's time for gear box replacement (whatever that is). Only 133K miles on the vehicle and I LOVE this car. Is it worth the cost to fix transmission or should I just donate or try to sell the vehicle?
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This morning I started my car and all was well, all gauges working. Drove 2 miles and stopped to get gas. Put some gas in my car and started it back up. My gas gauge never went up. Stayed slammed down to the E. All my other gauges were working normally except the gas. My gas light was not on saying I was on E, and I don't have a CEL.
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