Dodge - Neon :: 2000 - Driver Side Tire Won't Move?
Jan 30, 2013
I have had my car sitting for about 2 weeks and I had ah problem with my car were my nuts came off while I was driving some how when I pulled over the car was wobbling I had 2 bolts left holding the tire on. I had gotten my car towed to my house and had new prongs and bolts put on my car since then but now when I try to drive or move the car it only moves maybe 1 foot forward and maybe the same amount of feet backwards... What this problem may be I tired to turning the steering wheel while pushing it backwards but nothing works... It's like when I'm trying to move it I'm bumpin into something or I have ah block behind the tire that's keeping it from moving.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Intrepid with 92000 miles. Several times a day I get a vibration or shaking coming from the right side front tire. It comes and goes. It only happens between say 30 and 50 miles an hour. It stops whenever you hit the gas or turn the wheel to the right. Seems to start mostly after hitting a bump or rough road.
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2000 Dodge Neon having issues with freeze plugs falling out. Have replaced at least four freeze plugs over the last year and a half. Is there a solution to avoid constant replacement? Neon has about 135,000 miles. There is no warning when a plug is about to fall. Research shows freeze plug issues are not isolated to the Neon and perhaps copper plugs are the answer.
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Drivers side not bowing hot air? We changed the blower motor and the resister on the passenger side. We hadn't tried to use the heat until last night when we needed the defrost and that's when we realized only heat on passenger side.
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2000 Dodge Neon clacking noise at low rpm after releasing gas pedal. Around the 2000 rpm range letting off the gas produces a clacking noise. I have listened to the engine with a long screwdriver at idle and revving. The noise is not always present in this condition. Although when it has come up it seams to coming from behind the engine. Does not seem to be valves, connecting rod or main bearings etc.... Only at low rpm 1200 thru 2000 rpm WHEN releasing the throttle. Clacking seams to be timed with the crankshaft as it reduces the sound as the engine reduces rpm, not at the speed of the cams. Sounds fine at idle, going through gears and at freeway rpm's.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Neon with a 2001 Neon motor in it. I have just recently had problems with the car overheating. So we started diagnosing it and replaced parts that we thought were wrong. We replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and timing belt. The problem that I am having is that the car won't take coolant out of the reservoir tank. I have bled the air out of the cooling system and it still didn't fix the problem.
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My automatic door lock is making a buzzing noise when it locks the door. It does not make any noise when unlocking. I need to remove the door panel to take a look. How to remove the panel on the drivers door of a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan?
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I have a 2000 Neon with about 170K miles on it. with in the last 2 weeks it has been having a problem with acceleration. When i start to drive the RPMs will get up to 4 before it will start to move. Also when i am drive and need to pick up speed the RPMs will also go up to about 4 before it starts to pick up speed, but will drop back down when the speed goes up. I have found a little oil in the spark plug tubes and will be changing the seals out, and I have cleaned to MAP sensor as will. What is going on with my acceleration.
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I'm having Dodge Neon 2000 manual transmission. Suddenly the reverse gear stopped working (others working). I got it towed to my regular mechanic (used to charge comparatively lower than other local shops) and he said one of the shifter cable is broken and other one is stretched. Need too replace them. Is it worth it? (It's an old car and recently I've been spending a lot on this).
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As I accelerate, there is a humming noise that comes from the transmission area of the car. It does not make the noise when I am in idle, nor if i put the transmission in neutral and rev the engine.
When driving slow the noise is very subtle. As I accelerate faster the noise gets louder. The noise becomes the loudest at 60 mph. Above 60 it seems to calm down some. The noise is like a constant, deep humming sound. The noise gets softer as I slow down and then is gone when at idle again. To me it seems related to the speed of the tire or the CV half shafts turning or something rubbing in the transmission as the car goes faster. However the sound doesn't change when the transmission shifts. It stays constant and only gets louder as I go faster and then softer as I slow down.
While driving and turning hard to the left the sounds almost disappears until the car straightens out again. I have replaced the struts on all four wheels and this seems to only have caused the sound to get louder. I have also inspected the CV joints. There doesn't seem to be any cracks or signs of wear to all 4 joints. And I repacked the bearings.
The only other things I can think of is the cv half shafts are actually bad and need to be replaced. Or the motor mounts are not aligned/worn out and need to be replaced. Or the kickdown band and low reverse band on the transmission need to be readjusted. Or the transmission is has a problem (however it doesn't slip when driving).
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I have a 2000 neon, a knocking sound has started only when I get on the gas a bit harder than normal from a dead stop. It seems to last only a few seconds knock knock really fast and then its gone, does not sound like engine knock (rocker knock or persistent knock) more like a mechanical noise. Where to start ? Front breaks were done 4months ago, new rotors / pads / and 1 caliper ...
Seems it to be worse now....now starting to lean towards broken motor mount ... how to check or where to find them. Also now starting to hear while braking.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Neon that I've been troubleshoot for awhile now and can't figure it out. My engine shakes pretty badly and found I had some broken engine mounts on my passenger side. I've replaced them and calibrated my struts but the problem persists.
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My 2005 Neon has had a leaking problem for quite some time. It rains...a lot! After a decent rainfall, when I start the car and the first couple times I accelerate, there is an audible hissing sound, and then the water drips in from underneath the dash on the passenger side. The leak is getting progressively worse, and I'm concerned the interior carpets will get moldy. I recently brought the car in for it's 60K checkup, and all is good. The only thing they could find leaking are the seals on the passenger door. Unfortunately, these seals aren't made anymore, and the cost to purchase them is quite expensive, and may or may not fix the leaking issue.
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I have a 2002 Durango 2WD about 115000 miles. I have steering noise and some play. I can hear the noise when the truck is park and move the wheel from side to side about an inch. I had the upper ball joints replace, outer tie-rods and wheel bearings some time ago. Could this be the gear box. I now this trucks are notorious for ball joint problems if it says Durango in the back yeah your ball joins are bad. At the moment I am parking the truck and have it check over the weekend.
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I have a nice 2000 Durango 4x4 SLT, automatic. I have some problems.
1) The drivers door outside latch will not open the door, the inside latch works fine.
2) The shifter on the transfer case is loose, it appears that the drive was left in 2wd since I have been able to use it. But it will not shift?
3) The steering wheel feels like it has a lot of play in it, also feels like a knuckle is in it when I turn it. It sometimes slips on turns at speed?
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My car's driver's side tire looks almost flat as one of my co-workers indicated first but the tire pressure light is NOT on. Should I worry about it and get it checked out?
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I have already changed the pads, rotors, and calipers on both front brakes. Now it was sticking so bad the other day it was smoking from being so hot. Its not making me come to a full stop but the pads are sitting on the rotor even when I took the tire off. Could it be something simple? Or is the last thing to change the master cylinder?
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Front windows left open during a light overnight rain. Now all windows except driver's side will not move-- motors don't respond. I've read on an old post that they have their own switch, but does it need to be replaced (from a little moisture!) or something else? I cannot find any bad fuses, but I'm not confident I'm looking at the right one (#18, 20 amp, 'FWR Window'). 2009 model.
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I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy and the driver side power window has stopped working. When I press the button to lower the window, I hear a click-click-click noise for as long as I am holding the button but the window does not move at all. Fortunately, it is in the up position. I don't hear any motor noise either when I hold the button down.
Chances are it is a real easy fix. I'm not sure about this but I think this issue began right around the time I had locked my keys in the car and they stuck something down inside the door to pop the lock (I wasn't home so I didn't see what they did). I just wonder if they didn't pull a wire loose or something when they were fishing around in there.
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I have this 2005 Camry since 2010 and never had any issue. Yesterday, I used wiper and the driver side moved slightly. The passenger side wiper blade went over it. So I checked and the driver side arm doesn't move at all but the passenger side is working fine. Winter is coming here and it'll be terrible without working wipers. Is it something I can tinker on?
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I have read other people having problems with their power seats. Mine is kind of weird, the right side moves, the left doesn't. So when I try to move forward, it moves forward and pivots to toward the left, since only the right side is moving forward on the rail. There is only one motor moving the seat forward and backward right? I am hoping it's just an obstruction on the left railing or something....unless there are two motors moving the seat forward. The lumbar motors are fine, I can move up and down, it's just the seat itself that can't slide forward and backward.
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