Dodge - Neon :: 1996 - Low Power / Stalling And Backfiring
Feb 29, 2012
From the title post above, you can see that I have multiple issues with the car, or just maybe one causing all the symptoms. The initial problem is this.When the car starts, it starts up fine and has normal power. After driving for a few minutes, the car starts exhibiting the following symptoms.
1. If I step on the gas pedal hard and hold it, it sounds as if the car is drowning, the car loses power, then may back fire, then instantly, it regains power and accelerates. This is by keeping the pedal down.
2. If I feather the pedal, it doesn't lose power and accelerates decently but as soon as I begin to go up hill, it bogs down and does the drowning noise again.
3. I created a video showing this issue for my friend who typically familiar with these things. Here is the link ; [URL] .... In the video, the car is idling fine but when I throttle it, it begins to drown, then just picks up right away for no apparent reason.
4. Just two days ago, the car will not start after it's been running for a while. If I let it sit, it starts up again.
-Could my catalytic converter be bad and therefore it somehow creates back pressure after the car warms up?
-Would it be a fuel injection problem? I put fuel injection cleaner in the tank and it seemed to run a little better.
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I replaced the crank shaft position sensor and it fixed everything. According to the Hanes Manual, the crank shaft position sensor is responsible for many things including timing etc. But one thing that caught my eye was that the car would run for a while, then stop completely and not run for a few hours or few days.
All seems good now. From the title post above, you can see that I have multiple issues with the car, or just maybe one causing all the symptoms.First, I am an American living in Norway and getting anything done around here costs an arm, a leg, and an extra pinky so I am going at this the maker way and trouble shooting my problems with the car.The initial problem is this.When the car starts, it starts up fine and has normal power. After driving for a few minutes, the car starts exhibiting the following symptoms.
1. If I step on the gas pedal hard and hold it, it sounds as if the car is drowning, the car loses power, then may back fire, then instantly, it regains power and accelerates. This is by keeping the pedal down.
2. If I feather the pedal, it doesn't lose power and accelerates decently but as soon as I begin to go up hill, it bogs down and does the drowning noise again.
3. I created a video showing this issue : [URL] .....
In the video, the car is idling fine but when I throttle it, it begins to drown, then just picks up right away for no apparent reason.4. Just two days ago, the car will not start after it's been running for a while. If I let it sit, it starts up again.
What it could be.
1. Could my catalytic converter be bad and therefore it somehow creates back pressure after the car warms up?
2. Would it be a fuel injection problem? I put fuel injection cleaner in the tank and it seemed to run a little better.
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I have had this truck in 3 different shops and none of them could figure it out. The codes say misfire in cyl 2 and 5 bank 1 too lean and primary and secondary circuits malfunctioning for ignition coil. I've replaced the ign coil cap, plugs,plug wires, rotor, pcv, fuel pump, pick up coil, cat, o2 sensors and all sensors under the hood. Switched out all vacuum lines, cleaned the IAC and checked the pulse ring. The truck loses all power and either dies or backfires and regains power randomly. If I drive at night, it will stall and keep cranking when trying to restart. Usually have to let it sit for ten minutes for it to turn back over. Last night it backfired and stalled every 50 ft for over a mile. During the day, it revs up and down at idle by about 100 rpms.
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Turns out the crank shaft position sensor only fixed the cars ability to start and stop and did not cure the acceleration issue. What happens? The symptoms occur during the following conditions.
1. Hard acceleration
2. Going up hills
3. With heavy loads
Basically the car loses power and sounds like it is getting muffled. Then it just picks up rapidly and takes off.I have tested out the throttle position sensor and it checks out fine. The car never completely stops.If I feather the throttle, it picks up and keeps moving forward.
Haven't tried the EGR valve, fuel filter or fuel pump.
Strange thing though.The car was sitting for about two months until I replaced the crank shaft position sensor. Then it started up fine, and ran without problems.The tank went low, and I filled it with gas.AFter that, the car started having problems. The only thing I can think of is two things.
1. When I filled it up is raised sediment and somehow clogged something.
2. The excessive pressure in the tank is causing issues.
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My 1998 Dodge Neon has been stalling after it is warmed up. It runs great when the engine is cold but once the temperature gauge gets to the middle it stalls no matter how fast or slow I’m going. Once it stalls it won’t start for about 10 to 15 minutes while the engine cools a little. Then it will start and run fine for a few more minutes until the gauge reaches the middle and it will stall again. I’ve had my cam sensor, crank sensor, and ignition coil replaced and the problem hasn’t been fixed. When I bring it to the garage they tell me that no problem codes are showing up and by the time they look at it, it has cooled down enough to run and they can’t see a problem.
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Trying to figure out what the heck is going on with my 1996 Dodge Ram Van B2500. I purchased it a year ago, and for the past several months, its been acting up. Starts right up first start of the day. As day goes on, has difficulty starting, and stalls intermittently, also loses power with the gas pedal at higher speeds. It surges and big big backfires come out of the tail pipe.
This has gotten worse and worse, particularly the past 3 days. New computer put in it a few months ago, new battery, alternator, ignition coil, plugs, wires & distributor cap, oil filter, radiator and yesterday put in a new air filter, replaced both oxygen sensors AND the idle air control...alas, the same problems exist. Check engine light came on, but off today. Its so intermittent, and rarely GEN light would come on for a minute. Van would go for a couple weeks with no problems, but now its gotten real BAD! Fingers crossed I can make it to the auto parts store!
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I have a 1996 Dodge Neon 2.0 SOHC that was over heating. I told my daughter not to drive it until I could work on it and find and fix the problem. Well, we all know how kids are. She continued to drive it and it eventually it broke down. Now here's what I have done. I found that the water pump bearing went bad and that is why it was over heating. This also caused the timing belt to break.
I replaced the water pump and put a timing belt on it. I only have compression in two cylinders and it won't start. I followed the instructions for installing the timing belt from the book. I think they may be wrong. What I need to know is how exactly to set the crank and cam before I install the timing belt. Looking for step by step instructions on how to set the crank and cam and install the belt?
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Why my 96 dodge neon is leaking coolant. I was checking my oil and I noticed the reservoir tank was half empty, so I assumed it was nothing out of the ordinary since it's a 17 year old car. When I filled it though, it came pouring out of the tube that sits right under the tank. I'm capping it off every day before I drive and it holds, but it's definitely got a slow leak. It seems to only hold it for 4 days of driving for an hour. My temperature gauge stays at the normal level, but you can smell the antifreeze burning and the engine's running hot. I'm not too mechanically inclined, but what could be wrong with it? I've recently installed a new alternator and clutch cable and found out my valve cover gasket is leaking. I really want to save this car instead of getting a new one.
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my car sounded very bad and upon raising the hood, noticed a spark plug had blown off. When this happened the steering and brakes got hard to use.
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Intermittently (although lately it's pretty common, perhaps due to the Texas heat?) my car will take several seconds to start. It sounds like the battery is dead, i.e., it sounds as if it's about to start but it straining, and then it eventually engages.
When this happens, I know that a) I won't be able to turn on cruise control and b) I won't be able to accelerate easily. at best I can get it to 60 mph
Similarly, even if I start up without a problem, and I'm cruising down the HWY at 80 MPH, the car will suddenly loose momentum and won't go above 60 mph. And I can't turn on cruise control (cc shuts down, in fact, if it was on).
This is a 2005 Neon, by the way.
I have replaced the battery and cabling to the battery to no avail.
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I have a 2005 Durango. Started stalling out only a few days after I bought it (June 2010). Replaced EGR valve. Throttle body service. Back to the dealer several more times--couldn't find problem. Stalling, revving, hard shifting, hesitating, lack of power progressively worsened. Transmission rebuilt in Jan 2012, bell housing leak and repair in June 2012, torque converter clutch, water pump, idler pully, fuel injector, coil, vacuum sensor, air intake sensor, knock sensor, PCV valve, plugs and wires, and probably a few others I can't recall all addressed at one point or another. Continues to stall (often at shift changes, and at any speed from start up to 40 MPH), revs in park and at a stops, hesitates, hard/ delayed shifting, and doesn't like wet conditions. Am at a loss for a solution at this point and vehicle is just danged dangerous to drive as it stalls at the most inopportune times!!
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Have a 96 Dodge Grand Caravan ES which runs great. However, when gas tank is half full or less, the car will, only occasionally, lose power as if it is not getting gas. Every few minutes you can start it and limp along for a minute or two at 10 mph and then it will die again. As soon as I can get it to a gas station and fill tank, it runs fine again. And this only happens once in a while - say like once every couple months.
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One of the gas stations where I live recently added e15 and e30 gasoline to their pumps. I drive a 2005 Dodge Neon SXT and was wondering if either one would be ok to put in this car. I regularly put in the e10 gas and have done so for all of my vehicles since I have been driving. I read that e15 should be fine but was wondering about the e30 gas.
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My car was acting like it was in neutral. After cooling down for 20 minutes, it would drive about a block. Then it would not drive.
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I noticed a knocking sound from my 1996 Plymouth Neon when I hit some bumps. Poked my head underneath and see what appears to be the strut loose inside the spring. I am afraid that the "Damper Shaft Nut" came undone somehow? If so, how do I remove the quick-strut? Is the spring in danger of being sprung?
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I drive a 2004 Dodge Neon, 2.0 base-model that has had zero problems since I bought it, and regular maintenance has religiously been maintained. Yesterday, after having already driven once without any problems, I went to leave again, and it would not start.
When I turned the key, it started to start but just stopped, but my dash lights and radio all came on (and still come on) fine.
I called out AAA and they tried jumping it just in case, but to no avail. My friend then took out the starter AND the battery and took them to get tested- both were perfectly fine.
There is no wire corrosion, either, and no noise at all when I turn the key. Instead, everything else comes on except the car itself.
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My 2003 Dodge Neon started overheating. We replaced the thermostat, temperature sending unit, flushed the radiator, checked for blockages, cleaned the radiator, changed the head gasket and water pump.It can run for about 10-15 minutes driving or 30 minutes idling before it overheats. The fans will kick on. The thermostat opens up. Pressure builds up on the radiator hose. When it gets hot, it boils back into the reservoir.I've been careful not to let it get into the red since the head gasket change.We sent the head off and had it planed.
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My stepson's 2005 Dodge Neon sometimes won't start. Turn the key, the dash lights and radio and electric stuff respond, but other than a click there is nothing of an engine start up going on. He'll turn the key a few times, he pumps the gas pedal, does what he thinks might wake it up. Usually it will start after a few tries. He thinks it gets worse in the cold weather, but not much worse.
He also notes that if he does a lot of short trips, like running errands, this problem comes up more often. The car may run fine for weeks, and then the problem hits. Of course, it never does this when the mechanic has it. The mechanic has no idea what to do, since the car works when they test it. I was wondering if I used a voltmeter could I check some key nodes when the problem comes up. Also, if it really does get worse at cold, can I spray some suspicious locations with freeze spray to try and instigate the problem?
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After a while of running with the A/C on the car starts to have little hiccups? almost sounds like it's missing? but not that dramatic, it will continue after I turn the A/C off, but resolve after I have had the car off for a while. It will start up again after an hr or less of starting the A/C. It seems like I have a loose in HP while this is happening, more so than normally expected with the A/C on. I have recently replaced the ignition cables, plugs, my car is definitely a little more peppy now, and had the timing belt/water pump replaced, all the ussual maint, but this issue was present before. What this could be?
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I have a 02 dodge neon that doesn't like to start sometimes when its cold it just cranks over and pops sometimes and then just cranks over....
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I have a question about a dodge neon 2002. I am wanting to buy this car from a guy, but he says it needs a power control module. Then car starts up and runs fine, it doesn't smoke etc; the problem is when your driving it, it will not shift into gear and will go back into neutral. I want a opinion on what it could be and what something like that could even cost to get fixed.
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