I have a 05 dodge magnum v6 2.7. Only when its warm it stalls at idle. Scanned it code p0137 came back low voltage o2 sensor 1 of 2. I replaced all 4 o2 sensors and still stalling...
View 18 RepliesI have a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500. The transmission fluid is always low, but I cannot find a leak. This causes the transmission to slip. When I add transmission fluid it is okay for a while. (I do not drive the truck daily...) What the problem may be?
View 6 RepliesWhen I turn the A/C on for the first time everything is o.k. Say I drive to the store, park in the sun, come out 20 minutes later, start the car, turn on the A/C, and for the first minute or so the air blowing out smells rank. What gives?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Dodge Magnum with the V-8 Hemi and after re-fueling the car will die if driving slow or try to die if driving at highway speeds. This only last about 5 minutes if driving down the highway and stops after a couple of restarts in town. The car will start back up without a check engine light. We have tried different gas stations and putting gas in when empty or 1/2 tank and still does it most of the time.
View 9 Replies2005 Magnum with 64K and original battery: Battery warning light turned on and went immediately to battery shop. Alternator checked out ok but battery dead. Battery replaced but upon starting the engine max raced. turned on off several times still races at high RPM.
Since I was out of town, drove home by feathering accelerator pedal by pulling it back with my foot and brake and cruised at about 40 MPH. Got home safe. Will the computer reset after a fixed number of turn ons and offs or must it be taken to dealer for computer reset?
My 1994 volvo 240 stalls at idle when the engine is warm. It's happening more frequently as the weather gets colder, I'm not sure if that's a coincidence. The car is an automatic and I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as low transmission fluid.
View 1 RepliesWe are at 120K miles. The vehicle runs fine most of the time, but every once in 10-15 starts, it will rough idle or stall after a short warm up time when my wife stops at an intersection. Once she restarts it, it runs fine.
I have changed the spark plugs and wires, the fuel pump, the crankshaft position sensor (was fried) and after consulting this forum, I checked the fuel pressure regulator and the diaphragm is not leaking.
I was able to recreate the rough idle and the CEL on the dash, but my two OBDII readers said there were no codes And the bluetooth reader I am using is indicating that the following tests are not completing: Fuel System, Catalyst, Evaporative System and Oxygen Senors.
The dash CEL resets itself upon restart and does not light until the symptoms return.
After reading the Haynes Repair Manual, I am wondering about the Evaporative Emissions Control (EVAP) system? But I don't want to lead the troubleshooting.
We bought the vehicle at 60K miles and it has been mostly reliable.
We have a 1996 Dodge Dakota SLT that we purchased used. It starts and runs beautifully when the engine is cold; however, if you turn the vehicle off it is difficult to get it restarted and to keep it idling without keeping your foot on the accelerator. The funky thing is that after your "fight" with it a few minutes (i.e., foot constantly on the accelerator), the truck will then start to run correctly and idle correctly until the next time you turn off the engine. We have noticed that on each occasion when we have had this problem, the engine smells EXTREMELY flooded. We've been told its a temperature sensor, any other number of sensors, and now the IAC. If starting by process of elimination with least expensive fix first, what the heck do we replace first?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1997 dodge ram 1500 4x4 with the 318ci engine. 140,000 miles. Fall 2009 I replaced the CAT (old one had broken loose and was rattling around inside) and both o2 sensors. A few months later, when I'd start the truck cold it would idle fine then as it warmed at idle it would run rough almost quit then idle up and run fine all by itself. When started warm it would idle fine then hesitate while acclerating a few times then run fine. No check engine light. Now, about 10 months later check engine light is on (P0138 o2 circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2). I have put about 5,000 miles on the new CAT. I checked the wires and connections for damage and found none. Also, new cap,rotor,plugs and wires.
View 3 RepliesHere's what is going on with my 2000 Dakota V6 3.9L V6:
After sitting for at least a couple of hours, the truck will crank but not start. After 3-5 tries, the truck does start but idles roughly at a very low RPM for 10 seconds or so and then stalls. I turn the key one more time and it starts up great and idles and drives normally. This behavior is very consistent. I have only driven it about 5 miles after it started doing this, because on that trip, the engine stalled while I was driving. Occasionally the MIL comes on and gives P0443 as the code. Question is, can the evap purge solenoid cause this behavior if it is going bad? I have inspected the vacuum lines, and they seem ok.
One more note: When this first started, I was pretty sure it was the fuel pump. Replacing that has not fixed the problem, and the fuel pump relay is good.
Alright, dodge grand caravan 3.8. Year: 05' ... Just broke 100k miles on this thing, last time i changed the plugs i noticed plug 2 had oil all down in it. I completely forgot about the problem cause i got side tracked with bad sway bar bushings. Anyways, what is the cause of the oil leakage? It has gotten so bad that I am blowing smoke when its cold, even is warm weather. There is also caked on oil and dirt on a lot of the parts down the front left side of the motor. Blown head gasket? Bad valve cover gasket? I want the best way to approach this . The smoke is white, but not enough smoke to be a completely blown head gasket.
View 3 RepliesRecently I have been experiencing some rough and low idles with my 1MZ-FE 05' Camry. The car runs idles perfectly fine and drops to the correct idle when cold, however if the engine has been running at normal temperature and started again soon after the idle drops extremely low until the throttle is opened.
I have cleaned the throttle body with with throttle body cleaner a number of times, although I haven't taken the IAC valve out and cleaned it separately. I have also heard that the Engine Coolant Temp valve may be going bad. Could my symptoms fit this?
I had a dodgy EGR sensor not long ago that was giving me rough idles on a cold start, however I managed to mitigate that problem a by cleaning simply removing the sensor and giving it a quick clean. I don't think that this is the cause but I can't be sure.
I haven't had the spark plugs or fuel filter changed in a while although I'm unsure that these would be the problem if the idle was rough and low only when the engine was warm.
I have a 2005 ranger, 3.0 and automatic trans
The truck runs fine until it is warm... runs great down highway... stopping at a light or stop sign is horrible, It will act like the (old term ) carb is flooding out.
I put it on a meter It said tps so I replaced it. then it said number 4 cyl no power so I put new plugs in.... I do not hear any vacuum leaks, and It runs like a top when cold.
The car will start up fine, run for 10 - 20 min and stall. I will try and restart it but i takes atleast 7 or 8 sec of the car just turning over before it slowly fires up. Which results in a high idle 1200-1400 rpm and the car stalling another 5 min later.
Ive fixed my o2 sensor the wire was cut, replaced the fuel filter, and got a eurojet lower pcv hose for the vacuum leak i found.
I have a 05 fx4 5.4L with 85k on it. It has started idling rough when i come to a stop light or slow down to 10 mph or less. It only does it once in a while. There doesn't seem to be any real pattern. The motor shakes until you rev it up and then it goes away.
I have cleaned the maf, put in new air filter and fuel filter. And put in a new battery. Would a coil act like that? Maybe plugs? Or a vacuum leak?
Posted earlier with my escape randomly stalling at idle. Getting a code po446 along with po511. Only stalls at idle after warming up and letting it set a while. When you go to recrank it that is when it won't idle or if it does its at 500 rpms or less. Also after driving it today it smells like rotten eggs. Replaced the idle control valve with no luck. What could cause this?
View 2 RepliesRough idle I have had for little bit.Would stall out at idle or a stop, but fire right up? No one could figure it out with the stalling, but now its bad, started yesterday. Have white/blueish smoke sometimes, ( white smoke smells fuel) on restart after warmed when it dies, first time it took 25 mins to restart, now only takes 5 to 15 mins, when I step on it INCREDIBLE full power, fuel mileage gone to hell also since yesterday. Had full tank, now 1/2 tank.
No problems on cold start at all, no check light, 325,000 and never had this before.
Bad fuel?
ICP?
FICM?
Recent work, new turbo, ( turbo was original turbo installed when built) cooling line to waterpump, oil change, new fuel filters, front brakes and 2 new batteries.
Just got 2005 screw fx4. Seemed to run ok 115000 mi.Had exhaust leak,I put on 3" cat back on. Then I noticed tapping at front of the engine.Turns out tim. chain guides are broken. looks like very common prob after reading many forum/threads. Anyway got timing chain kit, phasers, selinoids. Truck runs and sounds great.But so far had truck back 2weeks stalled 2x at idle.What next??
View 14 RepliesHave a problem with my Santa Fe. 2004 2.4l.
My wife drove the car when the problem first appeared. She had been driving for 30 min, roughly 30km, and the car looses power and stops. Won't start when she tries. It cranks but won't fire up. When she waits for a minute it fires up but stalls.
We took it to a workshop. No code. They changed the fuel filter, which hadn't been changed for a long time.
They took it for a drive and it worked fine. I picked it up and it was working. Then it died when I exited the highway. It had lost some power during a second while still on the highway. I had driven it for roughly 30km and the engine was hot. Again, was able to start it it up for a couple of seconds if I let it cool for a couple of minutes. Got a lift home and returned in the evening and it started on the first try.
Took it to work the next morning. Wouldn't start in the afternoon when it had been standing in the sun and was gazing hot. Opened the fuel cap to release any vacuum. No change. Again started when I returned this morning and it wasn't very hot.
The engine warning lamp hasn't light up. Will try to see if there is a fault code tomorrow. Will try to measure the fuel pressure eventually.
The valve position sensor and timing belt was changed a year ago.
1990 Celica 2.2 liter, 5SFE manual trans car with 239k miles.The car occasionally stalls after it is warm and won't restart. When is is cold she fires right up as it does most of the time when she is warm. To restart he sprays starter fluid in the intake or waits until it cools down. Also as the car gets warm the idle decreases to around 650. Adjusted idle speed to 750 but no effect. The only code is 1-2, low or no RPM, measured the RPM sensor air gap and within spec, measured the sensor resistance and within spec. sensor wiring and connector looked good, measured the temp sensor and within spec, disconnected the EGR vacuum line and no effect. Problem occurs once or twice a week but at the most embarrassing place.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege that is having a stalling problem. The motor has about 30k miles on the block with around 3k miles on the internal components (rods, pistons, cams, etc.). Cylinders were bored 20 over and head was machined.
This stalling, or almost stalling, problem occurs when I start the car after it's been warm for awhile. For example, if I were to drive for an hour, park it for 45 minutes, and then come back out to start it up. It'll fire up, drop to idle, and then the idle will dip, stalling 50% of the time. The rough idle lasts anywhere from 5 to 20 seconds, and then usually fixes itself.
Giving it some gas does nothing to alleviate the problem; sometimes making it worse. Cleaning the idle air control valve solved this for a few days, and then it was back to its old ways. These symptoms do not occur on cold starts or if I restart the car after 5 or 10 minutes of it sitting. We couldn't find any vacuum leaks and there are no codes being displayed.