Dodge - Magnum :: 1989 - Transmission Fluid Is Always Low
Jan 19, 2014
I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500. The transmission fluid is always low, but I cannot find a leak. This causes the transmission to slip. When I add transmission fluid it is okay for a while. (I do not drive the truck daily...) What the problem may be?
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I have a 05 dodge magnum v6 2.7. Only when its warm it stalls at idle. Scanned it code p0137 came back low voltage o2 sensor 1 of 2. I replaced all 4 o2 sensors and still stalling...
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When I turn the A/C on for the first time everything is o.k. Say I drive to the store, park in the sun, come out 20 minutes later, start the car, turn on the A/C, and for the first minute or so the air blowing out smells rank. What gives?
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I have a 2005 Dodge Magnum with the V-8 Hemi and after re-fueling the car will die if driving slow or try to die if driving at highway speeds. This only last about 5 minutes if driving down the highway and stops after a couple of restarts in town. The car will start back up without a check engine light. We have tried different gas stations and putting gas in when empty or 1/2 tank and still does it most of the time.
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2005 Magnum with 64K and original battery: Battery warning light turned on and went immediately to battery shop. Alternator checked out ok but battery dead. Battery replaced but upon starting the engine max raced. turned on off several times still races at high RPM.
Since I was out of town, drove home by feathering accelerator pedal by pulling it back with my foot and brake and cruised at about 40 MPH. Got home safe. Will the computer reset after a fixed number of turn ons and offs or must it be taken to dealer for computer reset?
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1989 Shorty - 3.0
problem with washer fluid - the motor seems to work, but nothing comes out of the tubes...
I know the motor works, cuz there is water all over the engine compartment (near the battery) and down... soaked there...
so, my guess is that the rubber has come off the pump? where is the pump first off, and second, how do I get to all that? - just remove the cowl?
any diagrams or photos would be great!
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Our 1997 Grand Caravan with 170K has transmission fluid seeping from the outer seal where the left driveshaft connects to the transaxle. Is there a stop leak liquid that can be added to the transmission fluid safely? Is replacing the seal a major expense?
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I drive a 2006 Dodge Sprinter, 3500 with dual wheels. When changing from park to drive, the gears would not automatically shift from first to second gear. The engine kept revving, so I stopped the vehicle, and started it again. No problem. I spoke with a retired mechanic (friend of mine's father) and he said we should probably change the transmission fluid. When I called the dealer, he said they could do it but that he also saw problems arise when the fluid was changed on vehicles with high mileage (it has 225,000 miles on it).
Should I go ahead and change the fluid, or not?
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I have a 1989 Dodge RAM250 that has a 318 5.7L V8. It has throttle body injectors and I had to replace one of them. I did that and the engine runs grate! My problem is that when you put the vehicle into Drive or Reverse the engine quits. The only way to keep it going is to left foot brake it and rev the engine up.
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Drove my car for the time in a week, i picked up a 89 gli 16v, and when I shut the car off and was getting my backpack out of my trunk i started to hear like a weird noise, kinda like a pump was pushing fluid or air from the rear of the car, it did it for about 20 - 30 seconds then stopped. No cel light and only a lil over 50k on the car.
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My 89 Astro van is leaking red fluid when parked uphill (slightly) that drips from the u-joint closest to the transmission and only from the part that is in the yoke that goes into the transmission. I dropped the drive shaft thinking wrongly that there would be a bad seal where i thought the yoke went into i thought a second piece, but it is all one piece with a collar. When parked in the garage nice and level it did not seem to leak.
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My '89 Ford Crown Victoria Country Squire is a 5.0L with the AOD transmission. Yesterday, I slowed from 40 mph to 25 mph to turn on my street. As I drove up the street's slight incline I noticed the acceleration was sluggish as if the transmission had not downshifted from 4th to 3rd. When I stopped to back into my driveway, the engine shuddered and stalled as if it was hooked to a manual transmission and I had released the clutch with the shifter in an upper gear. My wife had to push the car into the driveway (she is a Minnesota farm girl ).
Now the engine starts normally with the gear selector in Neutral. It shudders and stalls the moment I try to put it in any gear or Park. The engine will not start in Park, but once again, balks as if I was trying to start a manual transmission equipped car without depressing the clutch or taking it out of gear.
The transmission and engine had been working perfectly before the above sudden problems. My guess is that the transmission is somehow stuck in overdrive.
Is there any way to knock it out of 4th gear? Why would the engine start in Neutral but not Park? It is the original AOD transmission with over 230K miles on it, but this car has at least nine lives and I am hoping this is another serious problem that turns out to be not so serious!
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This being the second of no doubt numerous questions re the 1989 Dodge B250 camper I just bought for a summer roadtrip. Engine is the 318 V8 with 120k miles. Tranny was rebuilt in '99 at about 60k.
Problem: beginning about 40 mph, and growing increasingly severe with speed, is a low-frequency rumble/vibration, probably in the 20 Hertz range. Significant enough that I didn't want to drive home faster than 50-55 mph. Could feel the whole vehicle vibrating, through the drivers seat, NOT through the steering wheel or pedals. Definitely not the engine, because as soon as I let off on the gas, the rumble/ vibe disappears. Get back on the gas and it returns full force. Definitely a drivetrain problem, only under load, that disappears when load it removed. My best guess is it felt something like I've heard described as a bad U-joint, something I've never experienced in person. The tranny shifts fine and doesn't feel like it's the problem, unless maybe it's something to do with the torque converter at highway speeds?
I'm taking it into the shop next week for diagnosis and repair, but I'd be interested to know in advance what the range of possible causes might be. Will report back after diagnosis with bonus points for correct guesses!
PS, correct me if I'm wrong, but when I pulledoff the highway to check underneath, it looked like this van has 2 U-joints. Is that correct? The van has a rear body addition for the camper bathroom.
Also, the van has been sitting almost unused for almost 2 years, except for an occasional run around the block to keep thr blood flowing. Would that lack of use perhaps. contribute to a U-joint seizing up?
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I hve a 89 Chevy Silverado Z71. Transmission will not shift out. It's only a little over a year old. Got it from Advance Auto Parts.
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Question regarding a 89 Cadillac Eldorado 4.5 V8 FWD, Transmission - 260,000 miles on car, runs great. Last couple of months, I have noticed that it will only shift into Over Drive when the car is cold, sat overnight. It will shift 4 or 5 times into Over Drive no problem. When car warms up, then it will not shift into Over Drive ever again, and I will get a 39 error code. Are there solenoids that I can replace, if so where are they? I'm not sure where to start with this problem?
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I have a 89 f250 4x4 351W FI C6 Auto, recently I was having problems with the trans it was revving up real high before it went into 2nd. I dropped the pan and the valve body to make sure their were no shavings or any other debris. Everything ok.
So I replaced the valve modulator and the line that goes to the intake, replaced the MLPS and adjusted the intermediate band. I put it all back together and NOW it won't even go in gear. Did I hook up the valve body wrong? If so what is the proper way of doing it?
I only unbolted the valve body from the trans I didn't take it apart. I was also wondering whats up with the color strips on the modulator I have purple right now was i suppose to have different color? Could the pin for the modulator not be in place? I added 3 quarts is that to much or not enough?
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Have an 89 F150 WITH 5.0 AOD TRANNY has a hard shutter from 1st to 2nd and shutters hard under low rpm I am Second also shifts rough all the way through and in to od and reverse was wondering what's the possible pro lens and how to fix them....
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I have a 1989 ford f150 xlt lariat it has a 5.0 and a 5 speed and is 4 wheel drive. Any way I am looking into rebuilding the rear end of the truck the pinion shaft has a lot of play in it up and down and both outer axle bearings seem to have lots of play in them. I believe it is a 8.8 inch in the rear. Just wondering if there hard to rebuild or what it all entails I have never taken one apart before and want to know what I am getting into. I have access to a press and a pinion and carrier bearing puller. the axle bearings i have done tons of them but never had to pull out the carrier. wondering how to set turning torque and backlash etc... and torque specs for everything.
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I have a 1989 tioga 460ford and the trans appears to be slipping when i get around 50mph. The engine revs up but it won't go more than 50. The engine again revs up but there does not feel like the power of the engine is being transferred to the trans. the coach runs fine up until i try to go beyond 50. I have 34000 miles on the rig. Some one suggested that I check the catalytic converter. what else should i look for?
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Here's the scoop, was driving down the freeway the other day, car is a 2001 PT Cruiser going about 65-70 MPH when all the sudden it felt as if I had hit something, a loud bump sound which came from underneath the engine, then an immediate reduction in speed and acceleration. After that, I was trying to accelerate the car, the RPMs were revving like crazy but the car would not go more than 15 MPH, while the RPMs were revving and revving, almost as if I was in park.
Got the car to the side of the road, opened the hood and found that the top of the dipstick (transmission) had blown off and shot transmission fluid all over the engine. Unsure of why this happened but sure that was what the loud sound was before the drastic drop in acceleration.
After that I had the car towed to my house, now it will start, but not drive in reverse at all, i'm afraid to try driving it to inspect it further but that's pretty much where I am at right now. There's 117k miles on this car...
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5.8L C6 .... I can't get a good reading on my transmission fluid level. When the truck is cold the level is well above (2") the checkered area.
When the truck is hot, I can't read the dipstick. It either has a little bit of oil well above the checkered area, or there isn't enough in the transmission to register.
How to get an accurate reading?
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