Dodge - Journey :: 2010 - Pulsation From The Brakes
Oct 25, 2012
I have a 2010 Dodge Journey which my husband and I purchased a year ago used. Over the course of the year we have been dealing with brake problems. No less than a week after we purchased it, we had it at the dealer for pulsation from the brakes and they turned the front rotors. Still didn't resolve the problem completely and was back again and they turned the rear rotors . 4 months later we're back with the pulsation and I had my front rotors turned again. Wasn't quite happy with that as I still felt the pulsation just not as bad. We decided to just let them be and wait.
Well the pulsation got worse over time and a month ago went to Pep Boys and they replaced my Front pads and rotors, they inspected all four prior to that and told me they all looked fine. But I insisted that the pulsation was pretty bad that even felt it on the steering wheel. They replaced the front ones. Next day I was back because the pulsation was still there, and they machined the rotors incase they were already defective. So long story short what else can be causing this. My tie rod ends do not look to be severely worn to possibly cause this. Getting really tired of this car and all its little quirks and problems honestly.
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The transmission feels like it's "slipping" on our 2010 Journey. It doesn't seem to follow any particular driving situations, or conditions (like when it's cold or hot or up-hill or straight running); it just happens occasionally. Of course, we've barely busted the 100K mile warranty, so i figure it's time for something to break.
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We purchased a used 2010 Journey in May. In early June, we found that when running errands in the heat, at about the third errand the car won't start. It will kind of chug chug, turns over, but doesn't catch. We took it in once and they rewired the starter. (someone had wired with with a piece of extension cord?). Then, a couple weeks later took it in for a new starter. Still does it. BUT, I think I figured out that when you wiggle the gear shift (Automatic) while in Park, it will start. It may take a few times, but it started for me twice this way.
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my husband and i own a 2009 dodge journey. the last couple of days when i would go to and from work i would feel the car chug between 20-30 mph kind of like when someone who is really bad at driving a manual would miss a gear, but then it would get to 30 mph and it would be fine. well, yesterday my husband and my son went to the store and when he got back he told me i wouldn't be able to go to work unless i had a ride because i guess our car wouldn't go above 2nd gear. IT is an automatic, but you can just feel when the gears shift, you know? anyway, he had to coast all the way home and every time he would get to an uphill spot he would not be able to get the car to go over 20-35 mph and it would screech kind of. he said it sounded like the car was going to blow up or something. so now we have no vehicle and no clue what is wrong, we are just hoping we don't have to replace the transmission because that is super costly!
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When the transmission in my 2009 Dodge Journey suffered a heart attack two days ago, the Dodge mechanic told me there was WATER in the AWD unit! I was rendered speechless - I have never driven it in water. I bought it used a year ago. Carfax was clean. He says the car wouldn't have lasted that long with water in the AWD unit. Does this make any sense at all?
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I have a 2009 dodge journey. Besides the brakes it has been a great car. A few months ago my car started dinging. The notification chime (the noise it makes when say your gas light goes on) doesn't stop. It "dings" about every 5 seconds. There is no consistency on when it starts. No constant. The only constant about this problem is, it stops when the wheels stop moving. Not step on the brake or gas, the car has to be at a complete stop.
It starts immediately when the car starts to roll. It will do it every time I drive for weeks, then for no reason will stop and not do it for a month. I am afraid to take my car on long trips for the fear of it starting to "ding". I have tried and tried to get it diagnosed but no one can fix it or even find a reason it would be doing it. There is no notification light so they don't know where to start. How to cut the wire that is hooked up to this chime ...
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My 2009 Dodge Journey is great for the first 2,500 miles after each oil change, then the oil just seems to vanish. The dealership has been tracking this for a couple of cycles... the oil level is fine when they check it every 500 miles, but somewhere between 2,500 and 3,000 miles about 2 quarts disappear. No apparent leaks or puddles.
So... now the Dodge dealer is saying they want to tear down the motor to "find out what's wrong," but they can't even tell me what they're looking for. What they should be looking for?Also, they are not fessing-up if they have seen the same problem in other vehicles, but it's hard to imagine they randomly got permission to do this.
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2010 Dodge Journey SXT AWD.
I was rear-ended this evening, and I'm leaving for a road trip at 6AM Friday. The damage seems minor, but my right tailpipe (this car has two) is now pressed against the bumper and I feel a vibration when driving. It's not bad at 65MPH, but at low speeds it feels like there's a mild puttering. Is this something I need to repair immediately (will call my dealership in the morning either way) or can I ignore it until Monday when I'm home?
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On a recent snowy drive from Chicago back home to Detroit, our 2013 Dodge Journey (6 cylinder AWD) started to make a screeching sound. My husband said it sounded like a belt. The sound would come and go. Due to the snow we were not able to go much over 45mph on the hwy. About 30 min after hearing the noise the first time, the car all of a sudden lost almost all acceleration. Not great when you are in the middle lane in snowy weather. We were able to get to the shoulder. After letting the car idle for a short time (3-4 min) in park and stepping on the gas peddle while in park, we took off again.
As long as we kept our speed 45-55mph for a short time the car would started to drive normal for 45-60 min, until it would happen again. One time we did not let the car rest for the normal 3-4 min and we were back on the shoulder again within a few min. The only warning light that came on once and then went out was the "check AWD" we have only driven the car locally a couple of times since, I was planning to take it to the Dodge dealership later this week. I fear this is a problem that is hard to duplicate, however this also concerns me as I normally drive a lot for work and often have several kids in my car on weekends.
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One tech wanted to replace both rotors and sanding down the pads to re-use (he said my brake pads can last up to one year). The guy in auto part said the surface of brake pads having hard spots could cause the pulsation, replace the pads. Of course, replace both rotors and pads is recommended but I have tight budget! What options do I have? can I just machine the rotors?
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I just purchased a 04 GX 470 the braking system seems to have a lot of travel and are very sponge. I live in MO and it pasted the state inspection. I check fluid and it is good. It has the electronic braking and 4 wheel disk. Is this normal or should I seek Lexis dealer service. I also have a GS430 and the breaks are right there.
Added info: I do not feel any pulsating in the pedal but there is a pulsation in the SUV when it coming to a stop. Feels as if the rotors may need to be turned but the pulsation is not hard it is smooth.
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I had a front brake job done on a 2002 Dodge Dakota pickup at 85000 miles. When I stepped on the brake, I felt pulsation in the pedal and a sort of wobbly feeling in the steering wheel. Also the brakes were making noises while driving. Classical sign of a warped rotor?! Long story short brand new rotors, brake pads and calipers, later the pulsation is mostly gone but the braking is still not smooth at one point while the tires are turning. Now i do have to older tires on the front but i just bought two brand new tires for the rear. Would it be wise to put the new tires on front to see if there might be some unevenness caused by the old tires before i take it back to the shop?
Also the feeling of the brakes catching on one point seems non existent or so minimal I can not be sure if the road surface interfering while driving slow of applying the brakes gently. But slowing down from higher speeds (above 40 mph) and using more then gentle braking ( not standing on the pedal with both feet) it is definitely there. Before the brake job braking caused the steering turning right. (sign of more braking action on the right - right?). Now with new stuff still pulls to the right but not as strongly. Should not this disappear with the brake job? Or get the new tires on front and see what gives?
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I have 04 rx330 with 70 k miles. Lately I started to feel grinding sensation and pulsation on applying the brakes initially it is fine then it will be felt specially when the car comes to near stop
A mechanic looked at it and said bad rotor I replaced with new rotors and pads still doing the same thing, as I inspected the old rotors and pads there was no visible defects.
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My 2011 Dodge Journey, V-6, auto, awd, pulls hard to the right on hard acceleration. It always pulls just as the transmission shifts. My dealer's service manager said its due to the front drive shafts being different lengths and torgueing differently.
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The other day I start my car in the garage. Backing out I know the brakes aren’t working normally. Testing in the driveway confirms that there is no power assist to the brakes. The engine is idling properly and there is no CEL or dash brake light lit, but there is non-power braking only. So I put the car back planning to work on it later.
Some two days later I start the car for testing and the brakes are back to normal. I have the usual power assist. There are no other problems.
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I give up. I have been trying for a very long time to get the brakes on my 1936 dodge to work with no results. The whole system is rebuilt, new lines, resleeved and rebuilt wheel cylinders, rebuilt and resleeved master cylinder, no leaks in system, pressure bled, vacuum bled and new lines. I even had a mechanic try and get them to work. He said all they needed were to be bled very slow. he actually got them to work slightly but after the car sat for a week the brakes were gone again. Drums all around, master cylinder is single cylinder. Brake pedal goes right to floor.
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A couple of years ago I bought an older used pick up to pull our camper and do any general hauling I might need. It is an '04.5 (they made some changes mid model year) Dodge Ram 2500 turbo diesel. It was high miles when I bought it (hence the reason I could afford it) with upwards of 300k but that is about midlife for this type of truck so I wasn't worried. It has been a great truck over all with only odds and ends that you would expect from an older high mileage truck.
However, it has one issue that started not long after I bought it and persisted for about the first year I had it. When I apply the brakes the pedal hesitates before moving. The brakes work fine other than this but it is a bit unnerving when you hit the pedal and it doesn't move for a full second. It is only about a second and then it releases and works fine.
I thought the problem had gone away when it started braking normally for something like six months but lately it has started doing it again. I know it does this and plan accordingly so I have not had any close calls but still, I would like to fix this. I cannot find any data on this problem.
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my speedo only works at 65 mph the same gos for the curse control once you drop below that they go dead also when this started the ABS ,check eng,and brakes lights came on changed the speed control unt did not work ?????
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My 2005 Dodge Dakota truck is shaking violently (in the front end) when I apply the brakes and I can't seem to fix the problem. I have changed the front rotors, brakes, alignment and new tires.
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Lost braking power. Replaced master cylinder. Brakes went soft again. Shop says it is something to do with the ABS Control Unit (?). Took it to dealer who said it is a leaking master cylinder. Back to shop which claims nothing wrong with new master cylinder and it i the ABS blah blah. Dealer says it can't be ABS. Went to another shop. Replaced master cylinder again. Brakes still soft. No one can figure this out and I am stuck with very soft brakes.
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My Camry XLS have pulsation when brake pedal is applied. The pulsation get increased with the speed and very noticeable at 60 -70 mph.
Is it front or rear break issue ? If you think rotors has to be re-surfacesd should I also change pads ?
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